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■11BANY,    PUBLISHED    BY    E.& 


NARRATIVE  JOUHWVL 


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AV  <fi 


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THROUGH  THE  NORTHWESTERN  REGIONS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATES 

EXTENDING 

FROM  DETROIT  THROUGH  THE  GREAT  CHAIN 

I 

OF 

AMERICAN  LAKES, 

TO 

THE  SOURCES  OF 

THE  MISSISSIPPI  RIVER. 

PERFORMED  AS  A  MEMBER  OF  THE  EXPEDITION  UNDER 
GOVERNOR  CASS. 

7JV  THE  YEAR  1820. 


By  HENRY  R.  SCHOOLCRAFT, 

Member  of  the  New-York  Historical  Society,  of  the  Academy  of  Natural  Sciences  e* 

Philadelphia,  of  the  New- York  Lyceum  of  Natural  History,  and  of  the 

Lyceum  of  Natural  History  of  Troy. 


EMBELLISHED   WITH  A   MAP  AND    EIGHT   COPPER  PLATE   ENGRAVINGS, 


ALBANY.* 
PRINTED  AND  PUBLISHED  BY  E.  &  E.  HOSFORD, 

SO.  100,  STATE-STREET. 


1821. 


NQBTI1ERN  DISTRICT  OF  NEW-tORS,  To  W\i 


A\, 


JE  IT  REMEMBERED,  tliat  on  the  thirtieth  day  of  January,  in  tite  fo.-iy- 
£.  s.  fifth  year  of  the  Independence  of  the  United  States  of  America,  A.  D.  1821,  E. 
&  E.  Hosford  of  the  said  District,  have  deposited  in  this  office  the  title  of  a  Book, 
the  right  whereof  they  claim  as  Proprietors  in  the  words  fallowing,  towit  :—•'  Narra  • 
tisc  Journal  of  Travels,  through  the  northwestern  regions  of  the  United  States,  extending  front 
Detroit  through  the  great  chain  of  American  Lakes  to  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi  River, 
performed  as  a  member  of  the  expedition  under  Governor  Cass,  in  the  year  1£20  By  Henry 
R  Schoolcraft,  member  of  the  New-York  Historical  Society,  of  the  Academy  of  Natura' 
'  i  iencea  at  Philadelphia,  of  the  New-Yoru  Lyceum  of  Natural  History,  and  of  the  Lyceum  of 
Natural  History  of  Troy.    Embellished  with  a  map  and  eight  copper  plate  engravings." 

In  conformity  to  the  act  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  Stales,  entitled  -'An  act  tor  the  en- 
couragement of  learning,  by  securing  the  copies  of  Maps.  Charts,  and  Books,  to  the  authors 
and  proprietors  of  such  copies,  during  the  times  the  rein  mentioned  ;"  and  also,  to  the  act 
entitled  "  An  act  supplementary  to  an  act  entitled  "An  act  for  the  encouragement  of  learn- 
ing, by  securing  tile  copies  of  Maps,  Charts,  and  Books,  to  the  authors  and  proprietors  of 
biich  copies  during  the  limes  then  in  mentioned,  and  extending  the  benclits  thereof  to  the 
arts  til  Designing,  Engraving  and  Etching  historical  and  other  prims." 

RICHARD  R  LANSING, 
Clerk  of  the  Norlliern  District  of Nciu-Tork. 


VI 3 

TO  THE 

HOK.  JOYW  C.  CMALOUK, 

SECRETARY  AT  WAR. 

SIR, 

Allow  me  to  inscribe  to  you  the  following  Jour- 
nal, as  an  illustration  of  my  several  reports,  on  the 
mineralogy  of  the  regions  visited  by  the  recent  ex- 
pedition, under  Gov.  Cass. 

I  beg  you  will  consider  it,  not  only  as  a  proof  of 
my  anxiety  to  be  serviceable  in  the  station  occupied, 
but  also,  as  a  tribute  of  individual  regard,  for  those 
exertions  which  have  been  made,  during  your  admi- 
nistration of  the  War  Department,  to  develope  the 
physical  character  and  resources  of  all  parts  of  our 
country, — to  the  patronage  it  has  extended  to  the 
cause  of  science, — to  the  protection  it  has  afforded 
to  a  very  extensive  line  of  frontier  settlements,  by 
stretching  our  cordon  of  military  posts,  through  the 
territories  of  the  most  remote  and  hostile  tribes  of 
savages, — and  particularly,  to  the  notice  it  has  be- 
stowed upon  one  of  the  humblest  cultivators  of  natu- 
ral science. 

HENRY  R.  SCHOOLCRAFT. 


INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS. 


I/'harlevoix  informs  us,  that  the  discovery  of  the 
Mississippi  river,  is  due  to  Father  Joseph  Mar- 
quette, a  Jesuit  missionary,  who  manifested  the  most 
unwearied  enterprize  in  exploring  the  northwestern 
regions  of  New  France ;  and  after  laying  the  found- 
ation of  Michilimackinac,  proceeded,  in  company 
with  the  Sieur  Joliet,  up  the  Fox  river  of  Green 
Bay,  and  crossing  the  portage  into  the  Ousconsing, 
first  entered  the  Mississippi,  in  1673. 

Mons.  Robert  de  la  Salle,  to  whom  the  merit  of  this 
discovery  is  generally  attributed,  embarked  at  Ro- 
chelle,  on  his  first  voyage  of  discovery,  July  14, 1678 
— reached  Quebec  in  September  following,  and  pro- 
ceeding up  the  St.  Lawrence,  laid  the  foundation  of 
Fort  Niagara,  in  the  country  of  the  Iroquois,  late  in 
the  fall  of  that  year.  In  the  following  year,  he  pass- 
es up  the  Niagara  river — estimates  the  height  of  the 
falls,  at  six  hundred  feet — and  proceeding  through 
lakes  Erie,  St.  Clair,  and  Huron,  reaches  Michili- 
mackinac, in  August.  He  then  visits  the  Sault  de  St. 
Marie,  and  returning  to  Michilimackinac,  continues 
his  voyage  to  the  south,  with  a  view  of  striking  the 
Mississippi  river — passes  into  the  lake  of  the  Illi- 
nois— touches  at  Green  Bay — and   enters  the  riv- 


VI  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS. 


er  St.  Joseph's,  of  Lake  Michigan,  where  he 
builds  a  fort  in  the  country  of  the  Miamies.  In 
December,  of  the  same  year,  he  crosses  the  portage 
between  the  St.  Joseph's  and  the,  Illinois — de- 
scends the  latter  to  the  ;  and  builds  a  fort  in 
the  midst  of  the  tribes  .ie  Illinois,  w^ichhe  calls 
Crevecceur.  Here  he  mukes  a  stand — sends  persons 
out  to  explore  the  Mississippi — traffics  with  the  In- 
dians, among  all  of  whom  he  finds  abundance  of  In- 
dian corn ;  and  returns  to  Fo*  t  Frontenac,  on  Lake 
Ontario,  in  1680.  He  revisits  fort  Crevecceur,  late 
in  the  autumn  of  the  following  year;  and  finally  de- 
scends the  Illinois,  to  its  junction  with  the  Mississip- 
pi, and  thence  to  the  embouchure  of  the  latter,  in  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  where  he  arrives  on  the  seventh  of 
April,  1683,  and  calculates  the  latitude  between 
23°  and  24°  north.  The  Spaniards  had  previously 
sought  in  vain  for  the  mouth  of  this  stream,  and  be- 
stowed upon  it,  in  anticipation,  the  name  of  Del  Rio 
Jlscondido.  La  Salle  now  returns  to  Quebec,  by  the 
way  of  the  lakes,  and  from  thence  to  France,  where 
lie  is  well  received  by  the  king,  who  grants  him  an 
outfit  of  four  ships  and  two  hundred  men,  to  enable 
him  to  continue  his  discoveries,  and  found  a  colony, 
in  the  newly  discovered  territories.  He  leaves  Ro- 
chclle,  in  July,  1681 — reaches  the  bay  of  St.  Louis, 
which  is  fifty  leagues  south  of  the  Mississippi,  in  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  in  February  following,  where  he 
builds  a  fort — founds  a  settlement,  and  is  finally  as- 
sassinated by  one  of  his  own  party.  The  exertions 
of  this  enterprising  individual,  and  the  account  which 
was  published  of  his  discoveries  by  the  Chevalier 
Tonti,  who  had  accompanied  him  in  all  his  perilous 
♦■xpeditions,  had  a  greater  effect,  in  the  French  ca- 


JNTROrUCTORY  REMARKS.  VH 

pital,  in  producing  a  correct  estimate  of  the  extent, 
productions,  and  importance,  of  the  Canadas,  than 
all  that  had  been  done  by  preceding  tourists ;  and 
this  may  be  considered  as  the  true  era,  when  the 
eyes  of  poPicians  and  u  *s,  merchants  and  spe- 
culators, \VeYe  first  stron.  turned  towards  the 
boundless  forests, — the  sublime  rivers  and  lakes, — 
the  populous  Indian  tribes,  and  the  profitable  com- 
merce of  New  France. 

■ 
Father  Louis  Hennepin,  was  a  missionary  of  the 

Franciscan  order  of  Catholics,  who  accompanied  La 
Salle  on  his  first  voyage  from  France  ;  and  after  the 
building  of  fort  Crevecoeur,  on  the  Illinois,  was  des- 
patched in  company  with  three  French  voyageurs, 
to  explore  the  Mississippi  river.  They  departed 
from  fort  Crevecoeur,  on  the  twenty-ninth  of  Febru- 
ary, 1780,  and  dropping  down  the  Illinois,  to  its  junc- 
tion with  the  Mississippi,  followed  the  latter  to  the 
Gulf,  where  they  left  some  memorial  of  their  visit, 
and  immediately  commenced  their  return.  When 
they  had  proceeded  up  the  Mississippi,  a  hundred 
and  fifty  leagues  above  the  confluence  of  the  Illinois, 
they  were  taken  prisoners  by  some  Indian  tribes, 
and  carried  towards  its  sources,  nineteen  days'  jour- 
ney, into  the  territories  of  the  Naudowessies  and 
Issati ;  where  they  were  detained  in  captivity  three 
or  four  months,  and  then  suffered  to  return.  The 
account  which  Hennepin  published  of  his  travels 
and  discoveries,  served  to  throw  some  new  light  up- 
on the  topography,  and  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  Ca- 
nadas ;  and  modern  geography  is  indebted  to  him. 
lor  the  names  which  he  bestowed  upon  the  falls  of 
St.  Anthony,  and  the  river  St.  Francis. 


Vlii  INTRODUCTORY  REMARKS. 

In  1703,  the  Baron  La  Hontan  published  in  Lon- 
don his  voyages  to  North  America,  the  result  of  a 
residence  of  six  years  in  the  Canadas.  La  Hontan 
served  as  an  officer  in  the  French  army,  and  first 
went  out  to  Quebec  in  1683.  During  the  succeeding 
four  years  he  was  chiefly  stationed  at  Chambly, 
Fort  Frontenac,  Niagara,  St.  Joseph  at  the  foot  of 
Lake  Huron,  and  the  Sault  de  St.  Marie.  He  ar- 
rives at  Michilimackinac  in  1688,  and  there  first 
hears  of  the  assassination  of  La  Salle.  In  l689,he  vis- 
its Green  Bay,  and  passes  through  the  Fox  and  Ous- 
consing  rivers  into  the  Mississippi.  So  far,  his  work 
appears  to  be  the  result  of  actual  observation,  and 
is  entitled  to  respect;  but  what  he  relates  of  Long 
River,  appears  wholly  incredible,  and  can  only  be 
regarded  as  some  flight  of  the  imagination,  intend- 
ed to  gratify  the  public  taste  for  travels,  during  an 
age  when  it  had  been  highly  excited  by  the  extra- 
vagant accounts  which  had  been  published  respect- 
ing the  wealth,  population,  and  advantages  of  Peru, 
Mexico,  the  English  and  Dutch  colonics,  New 
France,  the  Illinois,  and  various  other  parts  of  the 
New  World.  To  \jonvey  some  idea  of  this  part  of 
the  Baron's  work,  it  will  be  sufficient  to  observe, 
that  after  travelling  ten  days  above  the  mouth  of 
the  Ousconsing,  he  arrives  at  the  mouth  of  a  large 
stream  which  he  calls  Long  River,  and  which 
he  ascends  eighty-four  days  successively,  during 
which  he  meets  with  numerous  tribes  of  savages,  as 
the  Eskoros,  Essanapes,  Pinnokas,  Mozemleeks,  &e. 
He  is  attended  a  part  of  the  way  by  five  or  six 
hundred  savages  as  an  escort — sees  at  one  time,  two 
thousand  savages  upon  the  shore — and  states  the 
population  of  the  Essanapes.  at  20,000  souls ;  but 


INTRODUCTORY    REMARKS.  IX 

this  tribe  is  still  inferior  to  the  Mozemleeks  in  num- 
bers, in  arts,  and  in  every  other  prerequisite  for  a 
great  people.  "  The  Mozemleek  nation,"  he  ob- 
serves, "  is  numerous  and  puissant.  The  lour  slaves 
of  that  country  informed  me,  that  at  the  distance  oi* 
150  leagues  from  the  place  where  I  then  was,  their 
principal  river  empties  itself  into  a  salt  lake  of  three 
hundred  leagues  in  circumference — the  mouth  of 
which  is  about  two  leagues  broad;  that  the  lower 
part  of  that  river  is  adorned  with  six  noble  cities, 
surrounded  with  stone,  cemented  with  fat  earth  ; 
that  the  houses  of  these  cities  have  no  roofs,  but  are 
open  above  like  a  platform ;  that  besides  the  above 
mentioned  cities,  there  are  an  hundred  towns  great 
and  small  round  that  sort  of  sea ;  that  the  people  of 
that  country  make  stuffs,  copper  axes,  and  several 
other  manufactures,  &c." 

In  1721,  P.  De  Charlevoix,  the  historian  of  New 
France,  was  commissioned  by  the  French  Govern- 
ment, to  make  a  tour  of  observation  through  the 
Canadas ;  and  in  addition  to  his  topographical  and 
historical  account  of  New  France,  published  a 
journal  of  his  voyage  through  the  lakes.  He  was 
one  of  the  most  learned  divines  of  his  age,  and  al- 
though strongly  tinctured  with  the  doctrines  of  fa- 
tality, and  disposed  to  view  every  thing  relative  to 
the  Indian  tribes  with  the  over-zealous  eye  of  a 
Catholic  missionary,  yet  his  works  bear  the  impress 
of  a  strong  and  well  cultivated  mind,  and  abound  in 
philosophical  reflections,  enlarged  views,  and  accu- 
rate deductions ;  and  notwithstanding  the  lapse  of 
a  century,  he  must  still  be  regarded  as  the  most 
polished  and  illustrious  traveller  of  the  region.    He 


X  INTRODUCTORY    REMARKS. 

first  landed  at  Quebec  in  the  spring  of  1721,  and 
immediately  proceeded  up  the  St.  Lawrence  to 
Fort  Frontenac  and  Niagara,  where  he  corrects  the 
error  in  which  those  who  preceded  him  had  fallen, 
with  respect  to  the  height  of  the  cataract.  He  pro- 
ceeds through  lakes  Erie,  Huron,  and  Michigan, 
descends  the  Illinois  and  Mississippi  to  New  Or- 
leans, then  recently  settled,  and  embarks  for 
France.  The  period  of  his  visit,  was  that,  when  the 
Mississippi  Scheme  was  in  the  height  of  experiment, 
and  excited  the  liveliest  interest  in  the  French  me- 
tropolis ;  people  were  then  engaged  in  Louisiana  in 
exploring  every  part  of  the  country,  under  the  de- 
lusive hope  of  finding  rich  mines  of  gold  and  sil- 
ver; and  the  remarks  he  makes  upon  the  probability 
of  a  failure,  were  shortly  justified  by  the  event. 

In  1760,  Alexander  Henry,  Esq.  visited  the  upper 
lakes  in  the  character  of  a  trader,  and  devoted  six- 
teen years  in  travelling  over  different  parts  of  the 
northwestern  region  of  the  Canadas  and  the  United 
States.  The  result  of  his  observations  upon  the 
topography,  Indian  tribes,  and  natural  history  of 
the  country,  was  first  published  in  1809,  in  a  volume 
of  travels  and  adventures,  which  is  a  valuable  ac- 
quisition to  our  means  of  information.  His  work 
abounds  in  just  and  sensible  reflections,  upon 
scenes,  situations,  and  objects  of  the  most  interest- 
ing kind ;  and  is  written  in  a  style  of  the  most 
charming  perspicuity  and  simplicity.  He  was  the 
first  English  traveller  of  the  region. 

The  date  of  Carver's  travels  over  those  regions, 
js  176G.     Carver  was  descended  from  an  ancient  and 


INTRODUCTORY    REMARKS.  XI 

respectable  English  family  in  Connecticut,  and  had 
served  as  a  captain  in  the  provincial  army  which 
was  disbanded  after  the  treaty  of  peace  of  Ver- 
sailles, of  1763;  and  united  to  great  personal  cour- 
age, a  persevering  and  observing  mind.  By  his 
bravery  and  admirable  conduct  among  the  powerful 
tribes  of  Sioux  and  Chippeways,  he  obtained  a 
high  standing  among  them  ;  and  after  being  consti- 
tuted a  chief  by  the  former,  received  from  them 
a  large  grant  of  land,  which  was  not,  however,  rati- 
fied by  the  British  government.  The  fate  of  this 
enterprising  traveller,  cannot  but  excite  regret. — 
After  having  escaped  the  massacre  of  Fort  William 
Henry,  on  the  banks  of  Lake  George,  in  1757,  and 
the  perils  of  a  long  journey  through  the  American 
wilderness,  he  was  spared  to  endure  miseries  in  the 
heart  of  the  British  metropolis,  which  he  had  never 
encountered  in  the  huts  of  the  American  savages; 
and  perished  for  want,  in  the  city  of  London,  the 
geat  of  literature  and  opulence. 

Between  the  years  1769  and  1772,  Samuel 
Hearne  performed  a  journey  from  Prince  of  Wales's 
fort  in  Hudson's  bay,  to  the  copper  mine  river  of  the 
arctic  ocean. 

McKenzie's  voyages  to  the  Frozen  and  Pacific 
Oceans,  were  performed  in  1789  and  1793. 

\  Pike  ascended  the  Mississippi  in  1805,  and  1806, 

Such  is  a  brief  outline  of  the  progress  of  disco- 
very in  the  northwestern  regions  of  the  United 
States,  by  which  our  sources  of  information  have 


XJI  IM'RODBCTORY    REMARKS, 

been  from  time  to  time  augmented,  and  additional 
light  cast  upon  the  interesting  history  of  our  Indian 
frihes,  their  numbers,  manners,  customs,  trade,  reli- 
gion, condition  with  respect  to  comforts,  and  other 
particulars  connected  with  the  regions  they  inhabit. 
Still,  it  cannot  be  denied,  that  amidst  much  sound  and 
useful  information,  there  has  been  mingled  no  incon- 
siderable proportion,  that  is  deceptive,  hypothetical, 
or  false ;  and  upon  the  whole,  that  the  progress  of 
information  has  not  kept  pace  with  the  increased  im^ 
portance  which  that  section  of  the  union  has  latter- 
ly assumed — with  the  great  improvements  of  socie- 
ty— and  with  the  spirit  and  the  enterprize  of  the 
times.  A  new  era  has  dawned  in  the  moral  history 
of  our  country,  and  no  longer  satisfied  with  mere 
geographical  outlines  and  boundaries,  its  physical 
productions,  its  antiquities,  and  the  numerous  other 
traits  which  it  presents  for  scientific  research,  al- 
ready attract  the  attention  of  a  great  proportion  of 
the  reading  community ;  and  it  is  eagerly  enquired 
of  various  sections  of  it,  whose  trade,  whose  agri- 
culture, and  whose  population,  have  been  long 
known,  what  are  its  indigenous  plants,  its  zoology, 
its  geology,  its  mineralogy,  &*c.  Of  no  part  of  it, 
however,  has  the  paucity  of  information  upon  these, 
and  upon  other  and  more  familiar  subjects,  been  so 
great,  as  of  the  extreme  northwestern  regions  of  the 
union — of  the  great  chain  of  lakes — and  of  the  sources 
of  the  Mississippi  river,  which  have  continued  to  be 
the  subject  of  dispute  between  geographical  writers. 

Impressed  with  the  importance  of  these  facts, 
Governor  Cass,  of  Michigan,  projected,  in  the  fall 
of  1819,  an  expedition  for  exploring  the  regions  in 
question;  and  presented  a  memorial  to  the  Secreta- 


INTRODUCTORY    REMARKS.  Xlll 

ry  at  War  upon  the  subject,  in  which  he  proposed 
leaving  Detroit  in  the  ensuing  spring,  in  two  Indian 
canoes,  as  being  best  adapted  to  the  navigation  of  the 
shallow  waters  of  the  upper  country,  and  to  the  nu- 
merous portages  which  it  is  necessary  to  make  from 
stream  to  stream. 

The  specific  objects  of  this  journey,  were  to  ob- 
tain a  more  correct  knowledge  of  the  names,  num- 
bers, customs,  history,  condition,  mode  of  subsist- 
ence, and  dispositions  of  the  Indian  tribes — to  sur- 
vey the  topography  of  the  country,  and  collect  the 
materials  for  an  accurate  map — to  locate  the  site  of 
a  garrison  at  the  foot  of  Lake  Superior,  and  to  pur- 
chase the  ground — to  investigate  the  subject  of  the 
northwestern  copper  mines,  lead  mines,  and  gypsum 
quarries,  and  to  purchase  from  the  Indian  tribes 
such  tracts  as  might  be  necessary  to  secure  to  the 
United  States  the  ultimate  advantages  to  be  derived 
from  them,  &c.  To  accomplish  these  objects,  it 
was  proposed  to  attach  to  the  expedition  a  topo- 
graphical engineer,  a  physician,  and  a  person  ac- 
quainted with  mineralogy. 

Mr.  Calhoun,  not  only  approved  of  the  proposed 
plan,  but  determined  to  enable  the  Governor  to  car- 
ry it  into  complete  effect,  by  ordering  an  escort  of 
soldiers,  and  enjoining  it  upon  the  commandants  of 
the  frontier  garrisons,  to  furnish  every  aid  that  the 
exigencies  of  the  party  might  require,  either  in  men, 
boats,  or  supplies.  It  is  only  necessary  to  add,  that 
I  was  honoured  with  the  appointment  of  mineralo- 
gist to  the  expedition,  in  which  capacity,  I  kept  the 


XIV  INTRODUCTORY    REMARKS. 

following  Journal.*  In  presenting  it  to  the  public, 
it  will  not  be  deemed  improper  if  I  acknowledge  the 
obligations  which  I  have  incurred  in  transcribing  it, 
by  availing  myself  of  a  free  access  to  the  valuable 
Library  of  His  Excellency  De  Witt  Clinton;  and 
of  the  taste  and  skill  of  Mr.  Henry  lnman,  in  drawing 
a  number  of  the  views  which  embellish  the  work. 
HENRY  R.  SCHOOLCRAFT. 
Many,  May  lith,  1821. 

*  I  have  received  enquiries  from  several  individuals,  grounded 
on  the  supposition  that  my  Journal  would  contain  all  the  topo- 
graphical information,  collected  on  the  expedition.  It  may  be 
proper  to  observe,  that  it  only  embraces  my  individual  observa- 
tions upon  that,  and  the  other  subjects  brought  into  view;  and  that 
another  work  may  be  expected,  containing  Professor  Douglass9 
Topographical  Report  and  Map,  together  with  the  other  Reports,, 
and  the  scientific  observations  of  the  expedition  generally. 


CONTENTS. 


CHAP.  I.— Pf eliminary  Tour  from  the  City  of  New-York  to  Detroit,  17 

CHAP.  II. — Journey  from  Detroit  to  Michilimackinac,       ...  66 

CHAP.  III. — Six  Day's  residence  at  Michilimackinac,             .         .  110 

CHAP.  IV. — Journey  from  Michilimackinac  to  the  Sault  deSt.  Marie,  125 

CHAP.  V. — Journey  from  the  Sault  de  St.  Marie  to  the  Ontonagon  river,  141 

CHAP.  VI.— Visit  to  the  Copper  Mines, 171 

CHAP.  VII — Journey  from  the  Ontonagon  river  to  the  Fond  du  Lac,  189 

CHAP.  VIH. — Journey  from  the  Fond  du  Lac  to  Sandy  Lake     .        .  206 

CHAP.  IX. — Journey  from  Sandy  Lake  to  the  Sources  of  the  Mississippi,  238 
CHAP.  X. — Journey  from  Sandy  Lake  to  the  American  Garrison  at 

St.  Peter's, 269 

CHAP.  XI.— Journey  from  St.  Peter's  to  Prairie  du  Chien,        .        .  315 

CHAP.  XII.— Visit  to  the  Lead  Mines  of  Dubuque,        ,        .        .  340 

CHAP.  XIH.— Journey  from  Prairie  du  Chien  to  Green  Bay,      ,        .  358 

CHAP.  XIV.— Journey  from  Green  Bay  to  Chicago,        .        .        .  378 

CHAP.  XV. — Journey  from  Chicago  to  Michilimackinac,           «        .  388 

CHAP.  XVI.— Return  to  Detroit,           ....       ^        .  408 


THE  PLATES. 

Page 
£L  ATE  I.— The  Doric  Rock  on  Lake  Superior,  (vignette  on  title  page,) 

Description  of  this  view, 153 

PLATE  II.— Indian  Canoe,  and  Manufactures,       .        ,        ,        ,  68 

PLATE  III Sault  de  St.  Marie 131 

PLATE  IV.— Geological  View  of  Rock  Formations  on  Lake  Superior,  153 
PLATE  V.— Pictured  Rocks  on  Lake  Superior,  .  .  .  «  159 
PLATE  VI. — Copper  Rock  on  the  Ontonagon  river,        .        .        .        177 

PL  ATE  Vn.— Falls  of  St.  Anthony, 289 

PLATE  Vni— Fungite, 398 

Cassin*  Lake,  (on  the  Map,)  Description,        ....    251 


NARRATIVE    JOURNAL 


THROUGH  THE  NORTHWESTERN  REGIONS  OF  THE  UNITED  STATED 


CHAPTER  I. 


PRELIMINARY  TOUR,  FROM  THE  CITY  OF  NEW-YORK 
TO  DETROIT. 

X  he  determination  of  limiting  the  operations  of  the 
expedition  to  the  arctic  regions  of  the  United  States, 
and  thereby  putting  it  in  our  power  to  accomplish 
the  journey  within  the  current  year  (1820)  ;  and  the 
desire  of  visiting  the  most  remote  points  on  our  north- 
western frontier  during  the  summer  season,  had  ren- 
dered an  early  departure  an  object  of  the  first  mo- 
ment. But  the  mode  of  our  conveyance  (in  Indian 
canoes)  naturally  detained  us  until  the  breaking  up 
of  the  ice  in  the  lakes,  and  it  was  considered  ex- 
tremely hazardous  to  undertake  the  navigation  until 
they  were  perfectly  clear  of  floating  ice.  This  point 
being  determined,  the  members  of  the  expedition, 
were  left  to  exercise  their  own  judgment  and  con- 
venience, as  to  the  time  and  mode  of  proceeding  to 
the  place  of  embarkation,  Detroit.  A  time  not  ca- 
pable of  being  designated  with  astronomical  preci- 
sion, but  dependant  wholly  upon  the  natural  distri- 
bution of  atmospheric  heat,  shewed  the  necessity  of 


18 

a  careful  attention  to  the  state  of  the  weather,  and 
the  advance  of  spring.  The  year  commenced  with 
south  winds,  changing  to  the  southeast,  west,  and 
northwest,  and  attended  with  light  6nows.#  The 
Delaware,  Susquehanna,  and  the  Hudson,  as  far  as 
West  Point,  were  frozen  hard  on  the  first  of  January. 
February  gave  a  week  of  pleasant  weather  at  the 
commencement,  which  was  succeeded  with  high 
winds  from  the  north,  and  northeast,  and  between 
the  tenth  and  eleventh  there  was  a  heavy  fall  of  snow, 
so  that  it  lay  four  feet  deep  in  the  streets  of  New- 
York.  This  gave  good  sleighing  for  two  weeks, 
when  a  thaw  commenced,  and  the  last  days  of  the 
month  were  mild  and  pleasant.  March  commenced 
with  unusual  mildness,  with  varying  and  occasionally- 
blustering  wind,  but  no  snow  was  to  be  seen  on  the 
fourth  of  that  month,  and  an  opinion  was  entertained, 
that  the  Hudson  would  open  a  fortnight  before  its 
usual  period.!  Every  appearance  indicated  an 
early  spring,  an  occurrence  which  we  may,  in  our 

*  A  meteorological  register  kept  during  this  month  in  New- 
York,  indicated  an  average  heat  of  18°  at  7  A.  M.  2  8°  at  2  P.  M. 
and  16°  at  9  P.  M.  Out  of  the  month,  thirteen  days  were  mark- 
ed "  cloudy,"  and  eighteen  "  clear."  The  wind  blew  south  seven 
days,  southeast  six  days,  west  five  days,  north  four  days,  south- 
west three  days,  and  northwest  seven  days.  Snow  tell  on  the 
10th,  17th,  21st,  25th,  and  29th. 

t  In  the  year  1755,  noted  for  the  defeat  of  Gen.  Dieskau,  at 
Lake  George,  the  Hudson  opened  as  far  as  Albany  on  the  14th 
day  of  January,  and  the  following  year  it  was  open  on  the  14lh  of 
February,  so  that  Gov.  Fletcher  sailed  from  New  York  on  that 
day  with  300  volunteers,  to  repel  an  irruption  made  by  the  French 
upoi  the  Mohawks,  and  landed  at  Albany  two  days  afterwards. 
These  are  the  mildest  winters  of  which  any  record  has  been  pre- 
served.— Smith's  History  of  IYew- York. 


1§ 

climate,  (latitude  40°  to  44°)  sometimes  expect,  and 
which  by  terminating  our  winter  with  the  month  of 
February,  adds  three  or  four  weeks  to  our  mildest 
and  most  delightful  season.  Under  this  impression, 
I  left  New-York  on  the  5th  of  March,  in  the  citizens1 
post  coach  for  Albany,  a  mode  of  conveyance  which 
only  exists  during  the  recess  of  the  running  of  the 
steam  boats  ;  and  which  by  combining  a  good  de- 
gree of  comfort  and  convenience,  compensates,  so 
far  as  land  stages  appear  capable  of  compensating, 
for  the  wonderful  degree  of  celerity,  comfort,  and 
ease,  afforded  by  the  line  of  internal  steam  boat  na- 
vigation, that  connects  New-lork  and  Albany,  nine 
months  in  the  year.*  Passing  through  Kings- 
bridge,  Phillipsbourg,  Tarrytown,  Sing  Sing,  and 
Peekskill,  we  crossed  the  Highlands  of  the  Hudson 
during  the  evening,  and  lodged  at  Fishkill,  a  post 
town  of  Dutchess  county,  sixty-five  miles  from  New- 
York.  On  the  bth,  we  passed  Poughkeepsie,  Rhine- 
beck,  and  Hudson,  and  lodged  at  Kinderhook,  and 
reached  Albanyf  on  the  morning  of  the  7th.  The 
entire  distance  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles,  which 

*  The  invention  of  the  steam  boat  is  an  event  which  will 
long  render  the  year  1807  conspicuous  in  the  annals  of  median-;  al 
invention.  It  was  during  this  year,  after  a  long  period  spent  in 
experiments  on  the  application  of  the  steam  engine  in  propelling 
boats,  that  success  crowned  the  efforts  of  Robert  Fulton  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  first  steam  boat  called  the  North  River,  which 
performed  a  trip  from  New  York  to  Albany,  carrying  a  number  of 
passengers  to  witness  the  nautical  phenomenon  of  a  vessel  going 
at  the  rate  of  seven  miles  against  wind  and  tide. 

See  Colden's  Life  of  Fulton. 

f  By  the  census  of  1820,  Albany  has  a  population  of  12,542* 
being  1779  more  than  it  had  in  1810. 


20 

we  accomplished  in  forty  hours  actual  travelling,  in- 
cluding detention  at  post-offices  and  taverns,  giving 
an  average  of  four  miles  per  hour.  This  is  about 
the  rate  of  travelling  in  the  Trekschuits  of  Holland,* 
and  upon  the  frozen  grounds  in  Russia.f 

On  our  arrival  at  Greenbush,  we  found  the  ice  in 
the  Hudson  too  unstable  to  admit  of  crossing  upon 
it,  and  were  passed  over  in  a  boat  propelled  along  a 
path  cut  through  the  ice.J  There  was  some  snow 
in  the  streets  of  Albany,  and  a  cold  wind  from  the 
north  presaged  a  check  to  the  advance  of  spring, 
which  had  a  few  days  before,  given  such  flattering 
proofs  of  an  early  development.  On  the  succeed- 
ing day  (the  8th)  there  arose  a  hail  storm  from  the 
northwest,  which  continued,  attended  with  rain  and 
sleet,  during  the  whole  day  and  succeeding  night, 
and  on  the  morning  of  the  9th,  the  hail  lay  eight 
inches  deep  in  the  streets  of  the  city,  and  upon  the 
surrounding  plains ;  and  presented  the  novel  spec- 

*  See  Hall's  Modem  Paris,  in  the  Literary  and  Philosophical 
Repertory. 

i  Clarke's  Travels  in  Russia. 

|  To  travellers,  and  others,  who  wish  to  study  the  topography 
of  this  route,  the  map  of  the  Hudson  between  Sandy  Hook  and  San- 
dy Hill,  with  the  post  road  between  New-York  and  Albany,  recently 
published  by  A.  T.  Goodrich  &  Co.  will  prove  a  valuable  docu- 
ment. In  regard  to  the  general  geography  and  statistirs  of  the 
country.  Spafford's  Gazetteer  of  New- York  may  be  advantageously 
cos  suited.  The  history  of  the  discovery  of  this  river  by  Henry 
Hudson,  in  1609,  will  be  found  in  the  2d  Vol.  of  the  Collections  of 
ike  New-York  Historical  Society.  Its  geological  character  is  detail- 
ed in  Ackerly,&  Essay  on  the  Geology  of  the  Hudson  river,  a  work 
which  is  accompanied  by  an  excellent  geological  map  ;  and  in 
Eaton's  Index  to  the  Geology  of  the  Northern  States,  2d  editiojt. 


21 

tacle  of  good  sleighing  produced  by  a  fall  of  hail. — 
The  storm  had  abated,  but  not  ceased,  in  the  even- 
ing, when  I  proceeded  in  the  stage  to  Schenectady. 
The  route  lies  by  a  well  constructed  turnpike  of  six- 
teen miles,  across  the  Pine  Plains,  a  district  of  san- 
dy alluvion,  bounded  by  the  gravelly  soil  of  Guilder- 
land  and  Duanesburgh  on  the  southwest,  and  by  the 
river  alluvions  of  Niskayuna  and  Watervliet,  on  the 
northeast,  and  covering  an  area  of  about  seventy 
square  miles.  Thistractisincludedinatriangleformed 
by  the  junction  of  the  Mohawk  with  the  Hudson,  and 
of  which  the  Helleberg,  a  lofty  chain  of  highlands, 
visible  from  the  plains  at  the  distance  of  twenty  miles, 
forms  the  southwestern  boundary.    Situated  near  the 
centre  of  a  state,   computed  at  40,000  square  miles, 
and  containing  a  population  of  i, 200,000  souls,*  this 
tract  presents  the  topographical  novelty  of  an  unre- 
claimed desert,  in  the  hea  rt  of  one  of  the  oldest  coun- 
ties in  the  state,  and  in  the  midst  of  a  people  char- 
acterized for  enterprise  and  public  spirit.     Several 
attempts  have   lately  been  made  to  bring  this  tract 
into  cultivation,  and  from  the  success  which  has  at- 
tended  the  introduction  of  gypsum,  and  other  im- 
proved modes  of  agriculture,  it  is  probable  the  whole 
will,  at  some  future  period,  be  devoted  to  the  cultiva- 
tion of  the  various  species  of  grasses,  fruit  trees,  and 
esculent  roots  ;    three  branches   of  agriculture    to 
w  hich  its  sandy  soil  seems  admirably  adapted.     It  is 
certainly  an  object  worthy  the  attention  of  those  so- 
cieties whose  efforts  to  improve  the  systems  of  crop- 
ping, to  facilitate  the  progress  of  farming  by  the  intro- 

*  This  is  an  estimate  warranted  by  partial  returns  of  the  census 
now  taking.  The  population  of  New  York  in  1810,  was  959,220. 
Spaford's  Gazetteer, 


22 

duction  of  labour-saving  implements  and  machines^ 
and  to  emulate  agricultural  industry  by  the  annual 
distribution  of  premiums,  are  already  manifest  in  the 
improved  state  of  farms,  orchards,  and  breeds  of  do- 
mestic animals.  After  travelling  fifteen  miles  through 
the  Pine  Plains,  which  present  a  succession  of  the 
most  uninteresting  views,  the  eye  is  relieved  on  emer- 
ging, somewhat  abruptly,  from  the  forest  of  pines,  on 
entering  the  city  of  Schenectady, — a  town  which  is 
characterized  as  the  site  of  an  Indian  massacre  in 
1690, — the  seat  of  the  foundation  of  a  College  in 
1794,*  the  residence  of  a  population  of  5,909  inhab- 
itants in  1810,  and  the  victim  of  one  of  the  most  ter- 
rible conflagrations  in  the  fall  of  1 8 1 9.f  As  we  enter- 
ed the  town,  the  snow,  which  had  imperceptibly  suc- 
ceeded to  the  hail  and  sleet  of  the  morning,  entirely 
ceased,  and  was  followed  by  a  night  of  severe  cold. 
The  preceding  day  (the  ]0th,)  I  took  the  stage 
which  left  Albany  at  four  in  the  morning,  and  reach- 
ed Utica  at  seven  in  the  evening,  being  a  distance  of 
ninety-six  miles  in  seventeen  hours.  The  road  lies 
up  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk,  and  the  towns  succes- 
sively passed,  are  New  Amsterdam,  Caughnawaga, 
Palatine,  Little  Falls,  and  Herkimer.     There  is  little 

*See  Smith's  History  of  New- York,  p.  113. 

■r  "On  the  m6rning  of  the  17th  inst.  (Nov.  18 19)  at  4  o'clock,  a  most 
awful  conflagration  commenced  its  ravages  in  the  city  of  Schenec- 
tady, and  continued  with  unremitted  violence,  until  about  11 
o'clock  in  the  forenoon.  It  broke  out  in  a  Currier's  shop  in  Water- 
street,  near  the  store  of  John  Moyston,  and  destroyed  about  100 
stores  and  dwelling  houses  in  State,  Church,  Union,  Washington, 
and  Front  Streets.  It  was  by  the  most  extraordinary  exertions 
only,  that  the  bridge  over  the  Mohawk  was  saved,  having  been  on 
fire  at  every  pier.'' — Plough  Boy,  Vol.  I.  p.  199- 


23 

either  in  the  taste  of  buildings,  condition  of  inhabi- 
tants, or  state  of  improvements,  to  elicit  description. 
A  valley  celebrated  for  the  fertility  of  its  soil,  now 
covered  with  snow  and  chilled  with  a  driving  wind 
from  the  north,  presented  a  scene  of  polar  inclemen- 
cy, and  could  not  be  distinguished  from  plains  of  ir- 
reclaimable sterility.  The  season  was  equally  unfa- 
vourable for  observing  the  physical  productions  and 
constitution  of  the  country,  or  the  labour  that  has 
been  bestowed  in  rendering  them  subservient  to  the 
wants  and  the  convenience  of  life.  But  the  sites  of 
towns,  the  banks  of  rivers,  plains,  or  mountains,  which 
have  once  witnessed  the  effects  of  human  industry, 
whether  in  war  or  in  peace,  while  they  experience 
the  most  striking  physical  revolutions,  preserve  a 
moral  character,  which  no  change  can  obliterate ; 
and  we  cannot  pass  through  the  country  formerly 
possessed  by  the  Mohawks,  without  recurring  to  the 
savage  cruelties  and  murders,  the  battles,  and  the  am- 
buscades, of  which  it  was  so  long  the  conspicuous 
theatre.  This  powerful  and  warlike  tribe  was  one  of 
the  principal  members  of  the  Iroquois  confederacy, 
so  long  the  terror  and  the  glory  of  the  North  Ameri- 
can Indians.  The  other  members  of  it,  were  the  Onei- 
das,  the  Onondagas,  the  Cayugas,  the  Senecas,  and 
the  Tuscaroras.*  They  inhabited  the  country,  when 
first  visited  by  Europeans,  from  the  Highlands  of  the 
Hudson  to  the  banks  of  the  Niagara,  and  they  had 
either  pushed  their  conquests,  or  carried  the  terror 

*  The  Tuscaroras  did  not  originally  belong  to  the  confederacy, 
but  inhabited  the  back  parts  of  North  Carolina,  where  having  form- 
ed a  conspiracy  to  destroy  all  the  whites,  they  were  defeated 
and  driven  away  in  1712,  and  were  subsequently  received  an3 
adopted  by  the  Iroquois.— Smith's  History  of  New-York. 


2-1 

of  their  arms,  from  the  island  of  Montreal  to  the  banks 
of  the  Mississippi.  The  league  was  formed  before 
their  acquaintance  with  Europeans,  and  it  is  the 
only  instance  to  be  found  in  the  history  of  the  aborigi- 
nes, of  a  permanent  union  for  the  general  welfare 
and  defence.  There  are  two  other  instances  of  a 
temporary  confederation  of  tribes,  instituted  through 
the  energy  of  two  chiefs,  of  similar  character,  at  dis- 
tant periods, — that  of  Pontiac,  against  the  English, 
and  that  of  Tecumseh,  against  the  Americans.  But 
these,  although  powerful,  were  temporary  confedera- 
cies, and  dissolved  with  the  fall  of  the  respective 
chiefs  with  whom  they  had  originated.  The  Iro- 
quois, on  the  contrary,  had  not  united  for  any  speci- 
fic, but  for  general  purposes ;  their  compact  was  of 
immemorial  standing,  and  is  never  known  to  have 
been  broken,  in  a  single  instance.  United  by  the 
tics  of  blood,  speaking  dialects  of  one  language,  in- 
habiting the  same  country  and  climate,  and  acting  in 
one  cause,  they  had  acquired  a  national  pride,  and  a 
national  character ;  and  when  we  reflect  upon  the 
advances  they  had  made  in  the  art  of  government,  and 
the  sound  maxims  of  policy  by  which  they  were  uni- 
formly actuated,  we  cannot  suppress  the  wish  that  the 
period  of  the  discovery  of  the  new  world  had  been 
deferred  a  century  longer,  that  we  might  have  view- 
ed theNorthernlndian  in  a  state  of  civilization,  which 
it  is  not  now  probable  we  shall  ever  behold.*  T  he  ef- 

*  For  an  account  of  the  numbers,  government,  exploits,  and  cus- 
toms of  the  Iroquois,  see  Gov.  Clinton's  Discourse  before  the  New- 
York  Historical  Society.  2d  vol.  of  tf.eir  Collections.  Colden's  His- 
tory of  the  Five  Nations.  La  Hmitaii's  Voyages  to  Canada. — 
Journal  of  a  voyage  to  North  America,  by  Charlevoix.  Smith's  His* 
tory  of  New-York. 


20 

feet  we  cannot  doubt,  would  have  been  auspicious  to 
the  cause  of  the  Indians,  and  gratifying  to  the  friends  of 
philanthropy.*  Of  this  confederacy,  which  furnishes 
the  strongest  evidence  of  the  intellectual  vigour  of  the 
aborigines,  and  which  has  been  entirely  forgotten, 
as  a  confederacy,  among  the  local  names  of  the 
country  which  they  once  occupied,  and  still,  in  limi- 
ted tracts,  possess ;  the  Mohawks  were  the  most 
bloody,  the  most  artful,  the  bravest,  and  the  most 
powerful.  They  occupied  the  very  extensive  dis- 
trict of  alluvial  lands  from  Scaghticoke  on  the  Hoo- 
sick  river,  to  the  banks  of  the  Oriskany,  in  Oneida, 
and  had  such  weight  in  the  confederacy  that  it  was 
sometimes  even  denominated  by  their  name.f 

From  the  time  of  my  departure  from  New-York,  the 
weather  had  gradually  assumed  a  character  of  such 
severity,  as  to  forbid  the  expectation  of  a  speedy 
opening  of  the  northern  lakes,  and  left  me  at  liberty 
to  proceed  with  more  leisure ;  a  circumstance  of 
which  I  availed  myself  by  spending  several  days  at 
Utica,  and  the  villages  adjacent.  Standing  at  the 
head  of  the  Mohawk,  and  at  the  intersection  of  the 
most  important  roads  from  the  north  and  the  west 
part  of  the  state,  Utica  unites  extraordinary  advan- 
tages, as  a  point  for  the  sale  and  exchange  of  the 
products  of  agriculture  and  domestic  manufactures. 
It  is  the  emporium  of  one  of  the  most  extensive  and 
fertile  districts  of  farming  lands  in  the  state,  and  the 
advantages  of  geographical  position,  will  be  still  fur- 
ther augmented  by  the  Erie  canal,  which  is  to  pass 

*  Smith's  History  of  New- York,  p  73. 

t  Governor  Clinton's  Discourse  before  the  New- York  Historical 
Society,  2d  vol.  of  their  Collections,  p.  49. 

4 


20 

through  the  centre  of  the  town.*  This  village 
lies  in  north  latitude  43°  0'  and  occupies  the  ancient 
site  of  Fort  Schuyler  ;  a  name  that  recalls  the  mem- 
ory of  a  soldier  and  a  patriot  of  the  revolution/}"  It 
was  first  incorporated  in  1798,  under  the  name  of  the 
village  of  Fort  Schuyler.  In  1 805,  this  act  was  repeal- 
ed, and  a  new  one  passed  conferring  additional  privi- 
leges, and  its  Asiatic  name.  In  1810,  it  contained  a 
population  of  1700  inhabitants,  and  consisted  of  ^00 
dwelling  houses  and  stores,  exclusive  of  churches  and 
other  public  buildings.  Its  subsequent  increase  has 
been  very  rapid  ;  and  the  style  of  architecture  and 
general  appearance  of  the  town,  indicate  the  taste 
and  the  public  spirit  which  prevails.     Fifteen  miles 

*  Since  that  period,  the  canal  has  been  finished  from  Utica  to 
Seneca  river,  a  distance  of  ninety-six  miles,  and  the  perma- 
nency of  the  works,  the  number  of  boats  loaded  with  the  pro- 
duce of  the  country,  which  have  cons'antly  covered  it,  and  other 
circumstances  have  been  such  as  to  realize  the  most  sanguine  ex- 
pectations of  the  friends  and  projectors  of  that  great  work. 

f  My  New- York  readers  will  undoubtedly  excuse  me  for  present- 
ing the  following  just  and  feeling  tribute  to  the  talents  and  patriot- 
ism of  the  late  Gen.  Schuyler,  from  the  pen  of  a  contemporary 
soldier  and  patriot,  Col.  Troup,  of  Geneva. 

"  I  should  outrage  every  feeling  of  my  nature,  were  I  to  lay  down 
my  pen  without  paying,  in  the  warmest  language  of  the  heart,  the 
homage  of  my  unfeigned  gratitude  to  the  memory  of  General 
Schuyler,  for  the  patriotism  which  led  him  to  devote  to  the  Lake 
Canal  Policy,  that  ardent  zeal,  and  those  extraordinary  talents 
which  marked  his  glorious  career  in  our  revolutionary  contest  j  a 
career  that  justly  entitles  him  to  be  ranked  in  the  number  of  the 
illustrious  founders  of  our  republic.  And,  1  hope  to  be  pardoned 
for  subjoining,  that  whenever  imagination  places  this  very  distin- 
guished man  before  me,  I  soon  become  confounded  with  shame 
for  the  extreme  neglect — I  will  not  call  it  ingratitude,  with  which 
the  state  has  treated  his  venerable  name." 

Vindication  of  the  Lake  Canal  Policy. 


27 

northwest  of  Utica,  lies  the  site  of  Fort  Stanwix, 
(now  occupied  by  the  village  of  Rome)  the  scene 
of  one  of  the  struggles  of  our  revolutionary  contest. 
This  fort  was  first  built  about  the  year  1758,  by  the 
British,  but  falling  into  decay,  was  repaired  and  en- 
larged in  1776,  and  in  the  following  year  sustained, 
under  thecommand  of  the  late  Major  General  Ganse- 
voort,  a  siege  of  twenty-two  days,  from  a  combined 
force  of  British  and  Indiana,  under  the  command  of 
Col.  St.  Ledger.  It  was  in  marching  to  the  relief  of 
this  post,  that  the  unfortunate  Gen.  Herkimer,  falling 
into  an  Indian  ambuscade  on  the  banks  of  the  Oris- 
kany,  lost  his  life,  and  the  greatest  part  of  his  army. 
With  the  retreat  of  St.  Ledger,  (who,  after  a  sortie 
from  the  garrison,  led  by  Col.  Marinus  Willett,  in 
which  four  stands  of  colours  were  captured,*  was 
compelled  to  raise  the  siege)  departed,  the  Mohawk 
Indians,  then  in  alliance  with  the  British,  and  they 
have  never  since  appeared,  as  a  nation,  within  our 
precincts. 

On  the  10th  of  April,  I  took  the  stage  which  left 
Utica  at  two  in  the  morning,  and  passing  through 
Vernon,  Manilas,  and  Onondaga,  lodged  at  Skene- 
atelas,  a  neat  and  airy  village  on  the  banks  of  one  of 
those  beautiful  and  transparent  little  lakes  which  cast 
such  a  charm  over  the  scenery  of  western  New-York. 

*  I  do  not  find  this  sally  of  the  besieged  garrison  recorded  in 
any  history,  and  it  is  here  mentioned  on  the  authority  of  a  p.  rson 
(Col  Lawrence  Schoolcraft,  the  father  of  the  writer)  who  way  pre- 
sent upon  that  occasion.  This  action  is  also  characterized  as  afford- 
ing one  of  the  proofs  of  which  the  events  of  that  war  afforded  ma- 
ny, rjf  the  triumph  of  militia,  and  raw  recruits,  acting  under  a  strong 
sense  of  political  oppression,  and  an  enthusiastic  love  of  liberty, 
over  well  disciplined  and  veteran  troops,  who  were  that  day  driven 
at  the  point  of  the  bayonet. 


28 

On  the  eleventh,  we  passed  Auburn*  at  an  ear- 
ly hour,  and  crossing  Cayuga  lake  by  a  wooden 
bridge  of  a  mile  in  length,  reached  Geneva  at  one 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The  entire  distance  is  nine- 
ty-six miles.  The  route  lies  across  the  important 
agricultural  counties  of  Oneida,  Sullivan,  Onondaga, 
Cayuga,  Seneca,  and  a  part  of  Ontario,  a  part  of  the 
extensive  country  formerly  occupied  by  the  Iroquois, 
whose  great  council  fire  was  fixed  at  Onondaga,f 
where  a  part  of  that  tribe  still  remain.  It  is  the 
scene  of  the  operations  of  Gen.  Sullivan's  army  in  the 
summer  of  1779,  when  the  Iroquois  tribes  paid  the 
price  of  their  constancy  to  the  British,  in  the  de- 
struction of  their  villages,  the  slaughter  and  expulsion 
of  a  great  part  of  their  population,  and  the  total  an- 
nihilation of  their  power  as  a  confederacy  and  a  peo- 
ple. There  is  no  account  of  a  general  council  held  by 
them  after  the  operations  of  this  year,  and  the  seat  of 
their  council  fire,  which  is  always  sacred  and  im- 

*  The  increase  of  this  village,  within  the  last  ten  years,  Is 
surprising,  and  may  be  cited  from  an  hundred  other  instances,  to 
convey  an  idea  of  the  growth,  population,  and  improvements  of  the 
western  parts  of  New- York.  In  1810,  Spafford  states  it  to  consist 
of  100  houses  and  stores,  mostly  built  within  the  last  6  years.  The 
census  of  1820  gives  the  following  result  — Auburn  paper. 

Private  Buildings.  Tulilic  Ruiliiinps.  M.inufaetnre«.  Inhabitants. 

'>'         tJi  M     I  ■-  I  >  :>  —  —  ->  —  n^s*      ^ 

.   >«ioip.b»        roaJJiyS-JasS  na         o*!ot?;:; 


•   ft  n  J5  s  ><t—  ;r"LO.^  £  *!  =:  -  r.  -  H% 

<m  CT?  Z--  S        t*wac         ii  2  ^\  M  —       — "         J^i^ 

on 


c  £■         r.  2 

S  eug.  s  3. 

<•  O    C    -    3 


v  Smith's  History  of  New-York,  p.  68. 


29 

moveable  among  Indian  tribes,  had  fallen  into  the 
hands  of  their  enemies.  After  this  defeat,  a  great 
proportion  of  the  tribes  fled  to  Canada,  and  of  two 
ertire  tribes,  the  Cayugas  and  the  Mohawks,  there  is 
not  an  individual  left.  What  remains  of  the  tribes 
which  were  not  then  expelled,  or  have  since  expatri- 
ated themselves,  is  to  be  seen  in  the  villages  of  the 
Oneidas  and  Onondagas,  and  such  of  the  Senecas  and 
Tuscaroras,  as  are  located  near  Buffalo.*  A  county 
that  was  then  the  theatre  of  a  frontier  war,  and  the 
inheritance  of  a  powerful  nation  of  semi-barbarians, 
is  now  smiling  under  the  hand  of  agriculture,  and 
checquered  with  towns,  and  villages,  roads  and  ca- 
nals, the  seats  of  learning,  and  the  temples  of  religion. 
Perhaps  no  country  presents  so  remarkable  an  in- 
stance of  the  progress  of  human  settlements.achieved 
in  so  short  a  period  of  time.f     A  lapse  of  forty  years 

*The  Stockbrid^e  Indians  settled  on  the  Oneida  reservation,  are 
not  of  the  race  of  the  Iroquois.  They  migrated  from  the  banks  of 
the  Hudson  in  1734  to  Sto<  kbridge,  in  Massachusetts,  and  from 
thence  about  the  year  1785  removed  to  the  spot  they  now  occupy. 
The  Brolhertovvn  Indians  are  descendants  of  the  Muhhek  now 
who  formerly  inhabited  the  country  about  Narrasjanset,  in  Rhode- 
Island.—  Clinton's  Discourse  before  the  Historical  Society  of  New* 
York,  p.  43;  2d  vol.  Collections  of  that  Society. 

t  Increase  of  Population. — In  the  year  1790,  the  then  county  of 
Ontario,  according  to  the  census  then  taken,  contained  but  205 
families,  and  108  '  inhabitants.  "  In  the  same  territory,  (says  the 
Canandaigua  Repository,)  in  the  year  J  800  (except  the  county  of 
Steuben,  which  was  set  off  in  1796)  the  population  was  12,584. 
The  county  of  Genesee  was  erected  in  1806,  and  the  counties  of 
Niagara,  Chautauque,  and  Cataragus,  1808  ;  leaving  for  the  county 
of  Ontario,  its  present  territory.  In  1810,  this  county  contained 
42)032  ;  in  IS  14,  it  contained  57,630  ;  and  the  census  now  taking 
is  expected  to  show  about  90,000.     Genesee  and  Niagara  have  in? 


30 

ha4?  already  rendered  it  difficult  to  distinguish  be- 
tvvefii  those  tumuli,  ancient  ibrtincatious,  and  other 
antiquities  which  owe  their  origin  to  an  anterior  race 
of  inhabitants,  and  those  marks  of  occupation  left  by 
the  Iroquois,  or  attributable  to  the  French. 

On  passing  through  Oneida  county  on  the  M>th  of 
April,  there  was  still  some  snow  to  be  seen  in  situa- 
tions shaded  by  the  buildings  or  fences,  but  it  had 
entirely  disappeared  in  the  roads,  and  in  the  open 
fields.  The  roads  continued  muddy  to  Onondaga 
East  Hill ;  on  the  West  Hill,  they  were  dry,  and  so 
continued  with  partial  exceptions,  to  Geneva,  where 
the  clouds  of  dust  by  which  we  were  enveloped,  and 
the  appearances  of  vegetation,  indicated  the  benign 
climate  which  pervades  the  luxuriant  country  of  the 
Genesee.  Every  appearance  indicated  a  season  ten 
days  more  advanced  than  the  valley  of  the  Mohawk, 
which  is  only  separated  by  the  distance  of  a  hundred 
miles.  The  wild  poplar  put  forth  leaves  on  the 
18th,  the  house  popular  (populus  dilataid)  on  the  23d, 
apricots  were  in  blossom  on  the  22d.  The  ther- 
mometer observed  at  one  o'clock,  P.  M.  varied,  be- 
tween the  1  lth  and  28th,  from  60°,  to  78°,  of  Fahren- 
heit, during  which  period  the  weather  was  clear, 
mild,  and  pleasant,  with  the  exception  of  a  fall  of  rain 
on  the  26th  and  27th.  The  village  of  Geneva,  occu- 
pying a  beautiful  eminence  at  the  head  of  Seneca 
Lake,  and  surrounded  by  a  district  of  country,  under 

creased  nearly  in  the  same  proportion.  The  census  in  the  several 
counties,  for  1820,  is  not  yet  completed  ;  but  the  total  population 
in  the  territory,  which,  only  thirty  years  since,  contained  but  ten 
hundred  and  eighty  one  souls,  doubtless  exceeds  two  hundred 
tiioisand  !  ! — We  doubt  whether  a  parallel  can  be  found]  in  the 
rise  and  progress  of  any  country  in  any  age." — JY.  Y.  Statesman. 


31 

a  high  state  of  cultivation  and  improvement,  pre- 
sents a  most  picturesque  appearance,  on  approach- 
ing it  in  a  clear  day  from  the  east;  and  the  display  of 
the  town,  so  highly  favoured  by  local  advantages,  at 
the  distance  of  a  mile,  creates  an  idea  of  wealth, 
taste,  and  business,  which  is  not  disappointed  on  be- 
holding it  the  centre  of  a  populous  agricultural  dis- 
trict, the  mart  of  its  produce  and  the  theatre  of  its 
exchange,  where  the  intersection  of  several  import- 
ant roads,  and  a  branch  of  the  Erie  Canal,  facilitate 
a  ready  intercourse  with  all  parts  of  the  state.  A 
person  of  information  who  has  had  opportunities  of 
occular  comparison,  is  disposed  to  consider  the  na- 
tural advantages  of  this  village  and  vicinity,  as  a 
place  susceptible  of  rural  embellishments,  superior 
to  that  of  the  celebrated  city  of  Switzerland,  in  allu- 
sion to  which  it  has  been  named. 

On  the  28th  of  April.  1  left  Geneva,  and  passing 
through  Canandaigua,  Bloomfield,  and  Lima,  lodged 
at  Avon,  upon  the  banks  of  Genesee  river.  On  the 
following  day  we  passed  through  Caledonia,  Le  Roy, 
Batavia,  Pembroke,  and  Clarence,  and  arrived  at 
Buffalo  in  the  evening,  a  distance  of  210  miles  from 
Utica.  This  route  lies  across  the  populous  coun- 
ties of  Ontario,  Genesee,  and  Niagara,  colloquially 
known  under  the  name  of  the  Genesee  country,  and 
proverbial  for  the  fertility  of  its  soil.*      We  found 

*  At  the  annual  fair  and  cattle  show  in  Ontario  county,  in  the 
fall  of  1 819)  premiums  were  awarded  on  the  following  articles,  viz  : 

Best  winter  wheat,  80  hushels  12  qts.  on  the  acre. 

Barley,  34  bushels  on  the  acre. 

Peas,  32  bushels  4  qts.  on  the  acre. — Canandaigua  Paper. 

In  Onondaga  county  at  the  agricultural  fair  of  the  same  season, 
premiums  were  awarded  on, 


32 

the  peach,  and  the  earlier  varieties  of  apple  tree, 
eiery  where  in  blossom,  and  the  beech  (fagusferru- 
ginea,)  the  wild  poplar,  or  the  American  Aspen,  and 
some  other  species  of  the  early  sprouting  forest  trees, 
already  gave  the  forest  a  vernal  aspect.  These  ap- 
pearances continued  until  within  eight  or  ten  miles 
of  Buffalo,  where  the  influence  of  the  lake  winds, 
and  the  bodies  of  unmelted  ice  in  the  lakes,  have  a 
sensible  effect  upon  the  progress  of  vegetation, 
which  appears  to  be  retarded  eight  or  ten  days  later 
on  account  of  this  exposure.  The  peach  tree  had 
there  budded,  but  not  yet  blown.  We  found  the 
lake  still  covered  with  floating  ice,  and  no  vessel  had 

The  best  Winter  Wheat,  37  bushels  14lbs.  to  the  acre. 

do. 
do. 
do. 
do. 
12  qts.     do. 

Onondaga  paper. 
In  Oneida  County,  at  the  annual  fair   and  cattle  show,  of  the 
same  season,  the  following;  articles  received  premiums  : 

Winter  Wheat,  Reuben  Gridley,  of  Paris,  two  acres  72  bushels 
per  acre. 

Spring  Whfat,  Jona.  Wilcox,  Paris,  44  bushels  per  a<*re. 
Indian  Corn.  Samuel  Cary,  DeerfiVld.  1 19  bushels  per  acre. 
Barley,  R.  Soutluvcrth,  Paris,  56  bushels  28  quarts  per  acre. 
Oats,  J^d.  Sanger,  Whitestown.  84^   per.  acre. 
Feas,  D.  Barton,  Paris,  52  bushels,  per  acre. 
Potato's,  A.  Bartlett,  Paris,  5(  5  bu-hels  per  acre. 
Butter,  D.  Barton,  Paris,  had  already  made  3107  pounds  from 
21  cows. — Plough  Boy  and  Journal  of  the  Board  of  Agriculture  by 
S.  Southivick,  Vol.  1. 

But  the  greatest  product  of  Indian  corn  raised  during  this  sea- 
son, and  perhaps  the  greatest  ever  known,  was  by  Mr.  Jedediah 
Pusenbury,  of  Portland,  Chautauque  county,  which  was  132  bush- 
els 12  quarts  from  an  acre. — Plough  Boy,  Vol.  1.  p.  199 


Spring 

23 

33 

Barley 

41 

17 

Flax, 

350  lbs. 

Oats, 

54 

11 

Corn, 

121 

12 

33 

attempted  the  navigation.  The  steam  boat  had  ad- 
vertised to  start  on  her  first  trip,  on  the  first  of  May, 
but  the  backward  state  of  the  weather,  and  the  ice 
in  the  lake,  had  induced  the  captain  to  defer  it  until 
the  6th,  leaving  me  a  week  to  visit  the  Falls  of  Ni- 
agara, and  the  battle  grounds  on  the  north  banks  of 
the  Niagara. 

The  town  of  Buffalo  contained  a  hundred  houses, 
besides  the  county  buildings,  in  1810.*  On  the  30th 
of  December,  1813,  it  was  burnt  by  a  party  of  Bri- 
tish troops  and  Indians,  who  laid  waste  this  frontier. 
It  has  since  been  rebuilt  with  increased  elegance, 
and  is  now  a  town  of  about  200  gildings,  a  pro- 
portion of  which  are  of  brick.  It  occupies  an  em- 
inence, which  was  recommended  to  the  French  go- 
vernment, as  a  commanding  site  for  a  garrison,  by 
the  Baron  La  Hontan,  in  1693,  and  marked  Fort 
Suppose,  upon  his  map.f  The  first  vessel  which  navi- 
gated Lake  Erie,  was  built  in  this  vicinity  by  La  Sal- 
le, in  1679,  being  a  vessel  of  sixty  tons  burden.f 
A  part  of  the  tribe  of  the  Seneca  Indians,  about 
700  souls,  are  located  in  this  vicinity.  The  village 
of  Black  Rock,  the  residence  of  Gen.  Peter  B.  Porter, 
is  situated  two  miles  below,  at  a  spot  which  is  sup- 
posed to  unite  superior  advantages,  as  a  place  of 
trade,  and  a  harbour  for  vessels. 

On  the  first  of  May,  I  visited  the  celebrated  Falls 
of  Niagara,^  situated  22  miles  below.     Keeping  the 

*  Spafford. 

t  La  Hontan's  New  Voyages  to  Canada,  p.  187,  vol.  1, 

|  Smith's  History  of  New-York,  p.  80. 

§  This  is  an  Iroquois  word  said  to  signify  the  thunder  of  waters, 
and  the  word  as  still  pronounced  by  the  Senecas  is  O-niraa-gardh, 

5 


34 

American  shore,  the  road  lies  over  an  alluvial  coun- 
try, elevated  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  above  the  water 
of  the  river,  without  a  hill,  or  a  ledge  of  rocks,  and 
with  scarce  an  undulation  of  surface,  to  indicate  the 
existence,  or  prepare  the  eye  for  the  stupenduous 
prospect  which  bursts,  somewhat  unexpectedly,  into 
view.  The  day  was  clear  and  warm,  with  a  light 
breeze  blowing  down  the  river.  We  stopped  fre- 
quently on  our  approach  to  listen  for  the  sound  of 
the  Fall, but  at  the  distances  of  fifteen,  ten,  eight,  and 
even  five  miles,  could  not  distinguish  any,  even  by 
laying  the  ear  to  the  ground.  It  was  not  until 
within  three  miles  of  the  precipice,  where  the  road 
tuns  close  to  the  edge  of  the  river,  and  brings  the  ra- 
pids in  full  view,  that  we  could  distinctly  hear  the 
sound,  which  then,  owing  to  a  change  of  the  wind, 
fell  so  heavy  upon  the  ear,  that  in  proceeding  a  short 
distance,  it  was  difficult  to  maintain  a  conversation, as 
we  rode  along.  On  reaching  the  Falls,  nothing  struck 
me  with  more  surprise,  than  I  hat  the  Baron  La  Hon- 
tan,  who  visited  it  in  August,  1638,  should  have  fal- 
len into  so  egregious  a  mistake,  as  to  the  height  of 
the  perpendicular  pilch,  which  he  represents  at  seven 
or  ei^ht  hundred  feet*  Nor  does  the  narrator  of  the 
discoveries  of  the  unfortunate  La  Salle,  Monsieur 
Tout i,  approach  much  nearer  to  the  truth,  when  he 
states  it  at  six  hundred  fcet.t  Charlevoix, whose  work 

Veingtsfrongl  accentuated  on  the  third  syllable,  while  the  interjec- 
tion O,  is  ho  feebly  uttered,  that  without  a  nice  attention,  it  may 
escape  notice. 

*  La  Honian's  Voyages,  vol.  I.  p.  82. 

t  An  Account  of  the  last  Expedition  and  Discoveries  of  Mon- 
sieur 1)^  La  Salle.— -Collections  of  the  Mw-Yorlc  Historical  Society . 
Vol.  II.  p.  228. 


35 

is  characterized  by  more  accuracy,  learning,  and  re- 
search, than  those  who  had  preceded  him,  and  who 
saw  the  Falls  in  1721,  makes,  on  the  contrary,  an  es- 
timate which  is  surprising  for  the  degree  of  accuracy 
he  has  attained.  "  For  my  own  part,"  he  says,  "  af- 
ter examining  it  on  all  sides,  where  it  could  be  view- 
ed to  the  greatest  advantage,  I  am  inclined  to  think 
we  cannot  allow  it  less  than  a  hundred  and  forty 
or  fifty  feet."*  The  latter,  (one  hundred  and  fifty)  is 
precisely  what  the  Fall  on  the  Canadian  side,  is  now 
estimated  at.  There  is  a  rapid  of  two  miles  in  ex- 
tent above,  and  another  of  seven  miles,  extending  to 
Lewiston,  below  the  Falls.  The  breadth  across,  at 
the  brink  of  the  Fall,  which  is  serrated  and  irregular, 
is  estimated  at  four  thousand  two  hundred  and  thirty 
feet,  or  a  little  more  than  three-fourths  of  a  mile. 
The  Fall  on  the  American  shore  is  one  hunderd  and 
sixty-four  feet,  being  the  highest  known  perpendi- 
cular pitch  of  so  great  a  volume  of  water.f  The  fall 
of  the  rapid  above,  commencing  at  Chippewa,  is 
estimated  at  ninety  feet,  and  the  entire  fall  of  Niaga- 
ra river  from  Lake  Erie  to  Lake  Ontario,  a  distance 
of  thirty-five  miles,  at  three  hundred  feet.  Goat 
Island,  which  divides  the  water  into  two  unequal 
sheets,  has  recently  been  called  /m,(in  allusion  to  the 
perpetual  rain  bows  by  which  it  is  characterized)  by 

*  Charlevoix's  Journal  of  a  Voyage  to  North  America,  vol.  I. 
p.  353. 

t  Tt  is  in  the  volume  of  falling  water  only,  that  Niagara  claims 
a  pre-eminence.  There  are  many  higher  falls  in  various  parts 
of  South  America  and  Europe.  The  greatest  water  fall  in  Eurupe,' 
is  on  the  river  Lattin,  in  Lapland,  which  is  half  a  mile  wide,  and 
has  a  perpendicular  pitch  of  400  feet, 


36 

the  commissioners  for  settling  the  boundaries  of  the 
United  States,  acting  under  the  treaty  of  Ghent.  In 
approaching  this  cataract  from  Lewiston,  the  elevat- 
ed and  rocky  description  of  country  it  is  necessary 
to  cross,  together  with  the  increased  distance  at 
which  the  roar  is  heard  in  that  direction,  must  serve 
to  prepare  the  mind  for  encountering  a  scene  which 
there  is  nothing  to  indicate  on  approaching  from  Buf- 
falo ;  and  this  impression  unquestionably  continues 
to  exercise  an  effect  upon  the  beholder,  after  his  ar- 
rival at  the  falls.  The  first  European  visitors  be- 
held it  und«r  this  influence.  Following  the  path  of 
the  Couriers  de  Bois,  they  proceeded  from  Montreal 
up  the  St  Lawrence,  to  Fort  Caderacqui,  and  around 
the  shores  of  Lake  Ontario,  to  the  alluvial  tract  which 
stretches  from  the  mouth  of  Niagara  river,  to  the 
site  of  Lewiston.  Here  the  Ridge,  emphatically  so  cal- 
led, commences,  and  the  number  of  elevations  which 
it  is  necessary  to  ascend  in  crossing  it,  may,  without 
a  proper  consideration  of  the  intermediate  descents, 
have  led  those  who  formerly  approached  that  way 
into  error,  such  as  La  Hontan,  and  Tonti  fell  into. 
They  must  have  been  deprived  also  of  the  advanta- 
ges of  the  view  from  the  gulph  at  the  foot  of  the  Falls, 
for  we  are  not  prepared  to  admit  the  possibility  of  a 
descent  without  artificial  stairs,  or  other  analogous 
labourious  and  dangerous  works,  such,  as  at  that  re- 
mote period,  must  have  been  looked  upon  as  a  stu- 
pendous undertaking ;  and  could  not,  indeed,  have 
been  accomplished,  surroundc  d  as  the  French  then 
were,  by  their  enemies,  the  jealous  and  ever  watchful 
Iroquois.  The  descent  at  the  present  period,  with 
every  advantage  arising  trom  the  labours  of  mechan- 
ical ingenuity,  cannot  be  performed  without  feeling 


37  , 

some  degree  of  personal  solicitude.  It  is  in  this 
chasm  that  the  sound  of  the  water,  falls  heaviest  upon 
the  ear,  and  that  the  mind  becomes  fully  impressed, 
with  the  appalling  majesty  of  the  Fall.  Other  views 
from  the  banks  on  both  sides  of  the  river,  and  from 
the  Island  of  Iris,  in  its  centre,  are  more  beautiful  and 
picturesque;  but  it  is  here  that  the  tremulous  motion 
of  the  earth,  the  clouds  of  irridescent  spray,  the 
broken  column  of  falling  water,  the  stunning  sound, 
the  lofty  banks  of  the  river,  and  the  wide  spread- 
ing ruin  of  rocks,  imprint  a  character  of  wonder 
and  terror  upon  the  scene,  which  no  other  point 
of  view  is  capable  of  producing.  The  spectator, 
who,  on  alighting  at  Niagara,  walks  hastily  to  the 
brink,  feels  his  attention  imperceptibly  rivited  to 
the  novel  and  striking  phenomenon  before  him.  and. 
at  this  moment,  is  apt  either  to  over-rate  or  to  under- 
ratethe  magnitude  of  the  Fall.  It  is  not  easy  to  erect 
a  standard  of  comparison  ;  and  the  view  requires  to 
be  studied  in  order  to  attain  a  just  conception  and  ap- 
preciation of  its  grandeur  and  its  beauties.  The  ear 
is  at  first  stunned  by  the  incessant  roar,  and  the  eye 
bewildered  in  the  general  view.  In  proportion  as  these 
become  familiarized,  we  seize  upon  the  individual  fea- 
tures of  the  landscape,  and  are  enabled  to  distinguish 
between  the  gay  and  the  sombre,  the  bold  and  the 
picturesque,  the  harsh  and  the  mellow  traits,  which, 
like  the  deep  contrasted  shades  of  some  high  wrought 
picture,  contribute  to  give  effect  to  the  scene.  It 
was  some  time  before  I  could  satisfy  myself  of  the  ac- 
curacy of  the  accredited  measurements  of  the  height 
of  the  Fall,  and  not  until  after  I  had  made  repeated 
visits,  and  spent  a  considerable  time  in  the  abyss 
below.      There  appears  a  great  disproportion  be- 


38 

tween  the  height  and  the  width  of  the  falling  sheet, 
but  the  longer  1  remained,  the  more  magnificent  it 
appeared  to  me  ;  and  hence  it  is,  that  with  some- 
thing like  a  feeling  of  disappointment,  on  mv  first 
arrival,  I  left  the  Falls,  after  a  visit  of  two  days,  with 
an  impression  of  the  scene,  which  every  thing  I  had 
previously  read,  had  failed  to  create.  At  the  time  of 
my  visit,  the  wind  drove  the  floating  ice  out  of  Lake 
Erie,  with  the  drift  wood  of  its  tributary  rivers,  and 
these  were  constantly  precipitated  over  the  Falls,  but 
we  were  not  able  to  discover  any  vestiges  of  them 
in  the  eddies  below.  Immediately  in  front  of  the 
sheet  of  falling  water,  on  the  American  side,  there 
was  also  an  enormous  bank  of  snow,  of  nearly  an 
hundred  feet  in  height,  which  the  power  of  the  sun 
had  not  yet  been  fierce  enough  to  dissolve,  and 
which,  by  giving  an  Icelandic  character  to  the  land- 
scape, produced  a  fine  effect.  It  appeared  to  me  to 
owe  its  accumulation,  to  the  falling  particles  of  froz- 
en spray. 

What  has  been  said  by  Goldsmith,  and  repeated 
by  others,  respecting  the  destructive  influence  of  the 
rapids  above,  to  ducks  and  other  water  fowl,  is  only 
an  effect  of  the  imagination.  So  far  from  being  the 
case,  the  wild  duck,  is  often  seen  to  swim  down  the 
rapid  to  the  brink  of  the  Falls,  and  then  fly  out,  and 
repeat  the  descent,  seeming  to  take  a  delight,  in  the 
exercise.  Neither  are  small  land-birds  affected  on 
flying  over  the  Falls,  in  the  manner  that  has  been  sta- 
ted. I  observed  the  blue  bird  and  the  wren,  which 
had  already  made  their  annual  visit  to  the  banks  of 
the  Niagara,  frequently  fly  within  one  or  two  feet  of 
the  brink,  apparently  delighted  with  the  gift  of  their 
wings,  which  enabled  them  to  sport  over  such  fright- 


39 

ful  precipices,  without  danger.  We  are,  certainly, 
not  well  pleased  to  find,  that  some  of  the  wonderful 
stories,  we  have  read  of  the  Falls,  during  boyhood, 
do  not  turnout  to  be  the  truth;  but,  at  the  same 
time,  a  little  attention  is  only  necessary  to  discover, 
that  many  interesting  facts  and  particulars,  remain 
unnoticed,  which  fully  compensate  for  others,  that 
have  been  overstrained  or  misstated.  Among  these, 
the  crystalline  appearances,  disclosed  among  the 
prostrate  ruins,  and  the  geological  character  of  the 
Fall  itseli.  are  not  the  least  interesting. 

The  scenes  where  nature  has  experienced  her 
greatest  convulsions,  are  always  the  most  favourable 
for  acquiring  a  knowledge  of  the  internal  structure 
of  the  earth.  The  peaks  of  the  highest  mountains, 
and  the  depths  of  the  lowest  ravines,  present  the 
greatest  attractions  to  the  geologist.  Hence  this 
cataract,  which  has  worn  its  way  for  a  number  of 
miles,  and  to  a  very  great  depth,  through  the  stony 
crust  of  the  earth,  is  no  less  interesting  for  the  geo- 
logical facts  it  discloses,  than  for  the  magnificence 
of  its  natural  scenery.  The  chain  of  highlands, 
called  the  Ridge,  originates  in  Upper-Canada,  and 
running  parallel  with  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Onta- 
rio, forms  a  natural  terrace,  which  pervades  the  wes- 
tern counties  of  New-York,  from  north  to  south,  af- 
fording, by  its  unbroken  chain,  and  the  horizontal 
position  ot  its  strata,  the  advantages  of  a  natural 
road,  and  terminates  in  an  unexplored  part  of  the 
county  of  Oswego,  or  thereabout.  It  is  in  crossing 
this  ridge,  that  the  Falls  of  the  Niagara,  of  the  Gene- 
Bee,  and  of  the  Oswego  rivers,  all  running  into  Lake 
Ontario,  are  produced  ;  together  with  those  of  an 
infinite  number  of  smaller  streams  and  brooks. — 


40 

Through  this,  the  Niagara  has  cut  its  way  tor  a  dis- 
tance of  seven  miles,  and  to  a  depth  of  more  than 
two  hundred  feet,  disclosing  the  number,  order  of 
stratification,  and  mineral  character,  of  the  different 
strata  of  secondary  rocks,  of  which  it  is  composed. 
These  are,  beginning  at  the  lowest  visible  point,  red 
sand  stone,  fragile  slate,  and  fetid  limestone,  the  lat- 
ter occupying  the  surface,  and  imbedding  crystals 
of  calcareous  spar,*  and  foliated  gypsum.f     How 
far  these  formations,  in  the  order  in  which  they  are 
here  seen,  continue  towards  the  south,  and  extend  la- 
terally towards  the  east  and  the  west,  the  want  of 
more  extensive  observations,  prevents  us  from  deter- 
mining. A  similar  formation  exists  at  Genesee  Falls, 
and  the  sand  stone   stratum,  continues  unbroken  to 
Oswego,  where  it  is  quarried  for  the  purposes  of 
building.^     It  is  probable,  that  the  slate  rock,  vari- 
ously modified,  and  combined,  extends  throughout 
the  Genesee  country,  as  it  is  found  on  the  banks  of 
the  Seneca  Lake, — the  Cashong,   Flint,  and  Allen's 
Creeks, — in  the  towns  of  Le  Roy,  and  Clarence  in 
digging  wells, — on  the  banks  of  Lake  Erie,  at  Ham- 

*  Kalk  spath.  Werner.  Common  spar.  Kirwan.  Calc  spar. 
Jamison.      Chaux  carbonatee  pure  spathique.     Brongnairt. 

Chaveland. 

f  Selenite.     Cleaveland.     Fraueneis.      Werner. 

|  The  sand  stone  of  Oswego,  has  been  employed  with  some 
success,  for  the  hearths,  and  lining  of  glass  and  iron  founderies 
where  the  intense  degree  of  heat  employed,  renders  the  discovery 
of  the  most  refractory  rocks,  an  object  of  constant  solicitude.  In- 
telligent manufacturers  will  see  the  important  application  of  geo- 
logical science,  in  tracing  the  formations  of  rocks,  upon  which 
they  are  any  wise  dependant,  into  the  vicinity  of  their  manufacto- 
ries. 


41 

burgh, — on  Mud  Creek,  near  Canandaigua — on  the 
outlet  of  Honey oye,  and  Caneseus  Lakes,  and  on  the 
Conostaga  fork  of  the  Genesee.*  At  the  three  lat- 
ter places,  it  is  so  highly  charged  with  bitumen,  as  to 
be  capable  of  supporting  combustion.  The  inflam- 
mable gas  of  the  burning  springs  of  Ontario,  and  the 
fountain  of  petroleum  of  Cattaraugus  county,  afford 
additional  evidence  of  the  existence  of  carbon  and 
bitumen  in  the  shistose  rocks  of  the  Genesee,  and 
render  it  probable,  that  mineral  coal,  the  dis- 
covery of  which,  has  become  so  great  a  desidera- 
tum, will  reward  the  future  researches  of  the  geolo- 
gist, and  the  miner  in  this  region.  The  secondary 
character  of  the  Genesee  slate,  is  particularly  appa- 
rent upon  the  banks  of  the  Cashong  creek,  in  Onta- 
rio county,  where  it  imbeds  various  species  of  comJio- 
lites  and  erismatolites,  together  with  globular  masses 
of  granular  limestone.  Along  the  southern  borders 
of  Seneca  lake,  it  contains  numerous  impressions 
of  univalve  shells,   and  mollusca. 

The  surface  rock  of  this  region,  (limestone)  which 
is  fetid  at  Niagara,  either  does  not  preserve  a  uni- 
form character,  or  is  succeeded  by  local  formations 
of  calcareous  carbonats,  of  various  character  and 
extent.  Thus,  it  is  compact  shelly  (forming  a  shell 
marble,)  at  Wolcott,  in  Seneca  county,  and  at  Bath, 
in  Steuben  county;  while  the  greater  part  of  Onta- 
rio, Allegany,  Chautauque,  and  Genesee,  is  charac- 

*  For  several  of  these  localities,  I  am  indebted  to  the  observa- 
tions of  Mr.  C.  K  Guernsey,  of  Lima,  a  gentleman  whose  habits 
of  observation,  during  occasional  excursions  through  (hat  county, 
has  led  him  to  notice  many  of  those  mineral  coincidences  and  appear- 
ances,from  which  the  geologist  is  enabled  to  draw  the  most  import 
fant  conclusions. 


42 

terized  by  an  earthy,  dull  grey,  compact  limestone, 
which  gives  out  no  odour  in  breaking,  contains 
shells,  sparingly  imbedded,  and  burns  to  a  good 
quicklime.  It  is  in  this  formation,  that  the  gypsum 
beds  of  Caledonia,  Vienna,  and  Waterloo,  are  situ- 
ated ;  and  which,  also,  appears  in  the  vicinity  of 
the  sulphur  springs,  in  Farmington,*  and  the  beds 
of  lenticular  oxyd  of  iron,t  in  Palmyra,  Williamson, 

*  For  an  account  of  these  springs,  see  a  Memoir,  by  J.  H. 
Redfield,  in  the  2d  vol  of  the  Literary  and  Philosophical  Reper- 
tory. A'so,  Dr.  Mitchill's  Descriptive  Catalogue  of  Minerals, 
vol.  I.  p-3.      Bruce's  Minera logical  Journal. 

t  During  the  session  of  the  legislature  of  New-York,  in  the  win- 
terof  1820, a  loan  of  $10,000,  was  made  to  A.  Cole,  and  asso- 
ciates, to  enable  them  to  commence  the  manufacture  of  bar  iron, 
from  the  se  beds  of  ore  ;  and  it  is  understood,  that  works  are 
row  in  opera  ion,  at  which  a  very  malleable  iron  is  manufactured. 
According  to  an  analysis  ol  this  re,  by  Professor  Eaton,  of  Bur- 
lington Col'ege,  (see  Eaton's  Geolog' ,  p.  266,)  it  yields  thirty 
per  centum  of  metallic  iron,  and  the  on1  contains  petrefied  voluti- 
ns, small  and  well  characterized.  I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  Andrew 
!\I'Nat,  of  Geneva,  for  the  fol  owing  interesting  account,  of  the 
locaii'.y  of  this  mineral,  ac<  ompanied  hy  specimens  of  the  ore. 

"  MEMORANDUM. 

"  Lenticular  Argillaceous  oxyd  of  Iron. 

"  TWO  VARIETIES. 

"Var.  1st. — A  bright  red,  inclining  to  purple. — Is  found  in  the 
towns  of  Oniari  ■,  Williamson,  Penfield,  and  Sodus,  in  Ontario 
county.  The  small  r  d  of  ir>n,  accompanying  it,  was  wrought 
from  this  ore,  at  forges  erected,  and  now  in  operation,  in  the  town 
of  Ontario.  The  ore  is  found  in  great  abundance,  (quantity  sup- 
po>ed  to  be  inexhaustible)  in  a  strip  of  country,  about  a  mile  in 
width,  and  midway  '  etween  the  Ridge  (Niagara)  Road,  and  the 
south  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  which  are  about  an  average  of  four 
miles  apart,  and  nearly  parallel  with  each  other.  The  ore  is 
found,  geneially.  ai  the  depth  of  three  to  five  feet  below  the  sur- 
face, and  appears  to  extend  downwards  a  considerable  depth — 


43 

and  Wolcott,  in  Ontario  county.  In  the  town  of 
Caledonia  it  serves  as  the  basis,  to  several  varie- 
ties of  madrepores,  and  corrallines,  found  in  a  state 
of  petrefaction,  and  in  the  oak  openings  of  Niagara 
county,  it  incloses  nodules  of  hornstone.*  This 
hornstone,  is  also  found  among  the  debris,  of  the 
Falls  of  Niagara,  accompanied  by  radiated  quartz, 
rhomboidal  crystals  of  carbonate  of  lime,  foliated 
and  snowy  gypsum,  and  slight  traces  of  the  sul- 
phuret  of  zinc.f 

These   rocks,  (sandstone,  slate,   and   limestone) 

perhaps  10 to  15  feet,  growing  better  as  it  descends.  The  upper 
soil,  is  a  reddish  sandy  loam — then  a  species  of  greenish  clay, 
resting  upon  the  ore.  The  <  re  is  sometimes  wrapt  up  in  insolaled 
roundish  masses — sometimes  in  extended  beds,  similar  to  gypsum 
beds  or  quarries. 

"  VAR.2d. — A  dark  red,  inclining  to  brown. — Is  found  in  (he  town 
of  Wolcott,  Seneca  county,  on  the  inlet  of  P<rt  Bay,  at  the  same 
distance  from  Lake  Ontario,  and  lying  in  the  same  direction,  as  'he 
above  first  mentioned  kind.  The  soil,  &c\  are  similar.  The  spe- 
cimen herewith  delivered,  was  taken  from  the  surface  of  the  ore 
bed,  which  lies  naked  at  the  bottom  of  the  stream.  The  water 
has,  probably,  produced  the  difference  in  colour  whi  h  exists 
between  this  and  the  first  kind.  It  is  believed,  that  there  is  a 
continuation  of  the  stratum  in  Ontario,  extending  east  under  So- 
dus  Bay.  A  mile  or  two  south  of  the  ore,  up  stream,  there  is  a 
perpendicular  fall  of  40  feet,  over  a  bluish  slaty  rock  ;  s ' i!l  fur- 
ther south,  "he  bed  of  the  inlet,  is  a  smooth  rock,  apparently  lime- 
stone, of  secondary  formation,  until  the  creek  crosses  the  summit 
level,  (a  perfect  bog)  north  of  Cress  lake,  in  Galen." — Extract 
from  a  Com.  by  A  M'Nab,  Esq.  18th  Oct.  1320. 

*  Considered  as  Flint,  by  Dr.  Mit  hill,  in  his  Descriptive  Cata- 
logue. See  Bruce's  Mineralogical  Journal.  Also,  Cleaveland's 
Mineralogy. 

t  Blende.  Black-jack.  Pseudo-galena. 


u 

Jfiowevcr  their  properties  may  be  found  modified,  by 
future  discoveries,  will  probably  be  found,  with  a 
proper  allowance  lor  local  formations,  and  distur- 
bances, to  pervade  all  that  section  of  country,  which 
lies  between  the  Niagara  and  Seneca  rivers,— between 
Lakes  Ontario  and  Seneca, — and  between  the  Alle- 
ga  «y  river  and  the  south  shore  of  Lake  Erie,  as  gene- 
ral boundaries.  All  this  section  of  country,  appears  to 
be  underlayed  by  a  stratum  of  red  sand  t-tone,  such 
as  appears  at  the  Genesee  Falls,  but  which  is  im- 
bedded at  various  depths,  as  the  country  happens 
to  be  elevated  above,  or  depressed  below  the  level 
of  the  Niagara  stratum,  in  which  no  inclination,  is 
visible.*  No  order  of  stratification,  could  have 
been  affected  by  nature,  which  would  have  afforded 
greater  facilities,  to  the  wasting  effects  of  falling  wa- 
ter, so  visible  at  these  Falls.  The  slate  which  sepa- 
rates the  calcareous  from  the  sand  stone  rock,  by  a 
stratum  of  nearly  forty  feet  in  thickness,  is  continual- 
ly fretting  away,  and  undermining  the  superincum- 
bent stratum  of  limestone,  which  is  thus  precipitated 

*  I  find  these  observations,  on  the  floeta  rocks  of  the  Genesee 
country,  corroborated  by  those  of  an  accnrate  observer  of  geolo- 
gical appearances  Samuel  M.  Hopkins,  Esq.  of  Genesee,  who,  in 
his  Address,  before  the  Agricultural  Society  of  that  county,  ( 1 8 19) 
and  in  allusion  to  '.he  horizontal  position  of  the  rock  strata,  says: 
"  This  is  not  the  only  circumstance,  in  the  geology  of  this  coun- 
try- which,  according  to  the  imperfect  notions  of  the  writer,  is 
very  remarkable.  Not  only  does  the  whole  level  country,  seem  to 
have  been  once  covered  by  ^kes,  but  the  deep  chasms,  which  are 
formed  by  the  Niagara,  and  other  falls,  disclose  facts  which 
would  seem  to  prove,  that  the  whole  sub-stratum,  for  several  hun- 
dred feet  beneath  those  former  lakes,  has  undergone  successive 
changes,  by  the  action  of  water.  These  appearances,  would  well 
repay  the  labour  of  the  geologist,  who  would  investigate  them.": — 
Plough  Boy,  vol.  I.  p.  372. 


45 

in  prodigious  masses,  into  the  abyss  below.  The 
most  considerable  occurrence  of  this  kind,  that  has 
recently  taken  place,  is,  that  of  the  Table  Rock,*  on 
the  Canadian  shore,  which  fell  during  the  summer 
of  i  81 8,  disclosing  a  number  of  those  crystallized 
substances,  which  have  already  been  alluded  to. — 
By  these  means,  the  falls,  which  are  supposed  by 
the  most  intelligent  visitors,  to  have  been  anciently 
seated  at  Lewiston.  have  progressed  seven  miles  up 
the  river,  cutting  a  trench  through  the  solid  rock, 
which  is  about  half  a  mile  in  width,  and  two  hundred 
feet  in  depth,  exclusive  of  what  is  hidden  by  the 
water.  The  power,  capable  of  effecting  such  a  won- 
derful change  still  exists,  and  may  be  supposed  to 
operate  with  undiminished  activity.  The  wasting 
effects  of  the  water,  and  the  yielding  nature  of  the 
rocks,  remain  the  same,  and  manifest  the  slow  pro- 
cess of  a  change,  at  the  present  period,  as  to  posi- 
tion, height,  form,  division  of  column  and  other  cha- 
racters, which  form  the  outlines  of  the  great  scene; 
and  this  change  is  sprobably  sufficiently  rapid  in  its 
operation,  if  minute  observations  were  taken,  to  im- 
print a  different  character  upon  the  Falls,  at  the  close 
of  every  century  Nothing  in  the  examination  of 
the  geological  constitution,  and  mineral  strata  of  our 
continent,  conveys  a  more  striking  illustration  of  its 
remote  antiquity,  (still  doubted  by  many)  than  a 
consideration  of  the  time,  it  must  have  required  for 
the  waters  of  Niagara,  to  have  worn  their  channel, 
for  such  an  immense  distance,  through  the  rock.     It 

*  1  he  Table  Rock,  was  a  favourite  point  of  view  for  many 
years,  and  the  day  preceding  the  ni^ht  on  which  it  fell  with  tre- 
mendous noise,  a  number  of  visitors,  had  stood  with  careless  secu- 
rity upon  it. 


1G 

is  true,  we  are  in  possession  of  no  certain  data,  for 
estimating  the  annual  rate  of  their  progress,  or  for 
comparing  the  results  with  the  Mosaic  history  of  the 
earth.  All  that  can  be  presumed  is,  that  this  pro- 
gress, is  now  as  rapid,  as  it  was  in  former  ages.  The 
discovery  of  these  Falls  does  not  appear  to  have 
been  made,  until  an  hundred  and  eighty-six  years  af- 
ter the  first  visit  of  Columbus  to  the  American  con- 
tinent in  1492,  or  a  hundred  and  eighty  years  after 
the  discovery  of  North  America  by  Cabot,  in  J  497. 
I  assume  the  period  of  La  Salle's  visit,  in  1678,  as 
the  basis  of  these  deductions,  but  my  opportunities 
of  research,  do  not  allow  me  to  state  with  certainty 
that  he  was  the  first  visitor,  who  has  furnished  a 
printed  account  of  them.  He  was  followed  by  La 
Hontan,  in  1G83,  and  by  the  Jesuit,  Charlevoix,  in 
1721  ;  but,  they  give  no  accounts  which  are  suffi- 
ciently precise,  to  enable  us  to  determine  what 
changes  have  since  taken  place  in  the  aspect  of  the 
Falls.  It  was  not,  indeed,  until  after  the  dismem- 
berment of  the  Iroquois  confederacy,  that  the  path  to 
the  Falls,  was  opened  to  the  English  Colonies,  the 
date  of  whose  unmolested  intercourse  with  this  region, 
cannot,  however,  precede  that  of  the  ratification  of 
the  definitive  treaty  of  peace,  with  Great  Britain,  in 
1784.  It  is,  therefore,  only  thirty-six  years,  since  it 
has  been  the  free  and  fashionable  resort  of  all  sec- 
tions of  the  Union.  Maps  and  descriptions  are  now 
extant,  which  will  enable  us  to  fix  the  rate  of  its 
progress,  on  the  expiration  of  the  present  century, 
and  we  should  not  be  disappointed  in  our  anticipa- 
tions, if  its  progress  is  found,  greatly  to  exceed  the 
prevalent  expectation.  To  aid  in  the  determina- 
tion, the  Island  of  Iris,  which  extends  from  the  brink 


47 

©f  the  Fall,  up  the  river,  and  which  is  now  connected 
with  th^  shore,  by  a  wooden  bridge,  appears  to  pre- 
sent great  facilities.  A  simple  measurement  of  its 
length,  wit!)  a  monument  for  recording  it  at  its  head, 
would  convert  it  into  a  graduated  scale,  and  the 
poiut  of  the  indentation  of  the  Horse  Shoe  Fall,  could, 
in  like  manner,  be  perpetuated  on  either  shore,  by  a 
series  of  corresponding  celestial  observations,  for  de- 
termining the  longitude  of  the  extreme  point  of  that 
incurvation.  Distant  ages  would  thus  be  furnished 
with  data,  the  precision  of  which,  would  probably 
enable  them  to  throw  new  and  important  lights  on 
the  history  of  the  e  irth,  and  the  changes  it  has  un- 
dergone. Is  this  suggestion  of  too  visionary  a  na- 
ture, to  merit  the  consideration  of  geological  soci- 
eties ? 

On  the  third  of  May,  I  returned  to  Buffalo,  and 
found  the  lake  rapidly  discharging  its  ice,  which  had 
been  recently  broken  up  by  the  wind.  On  the  sixth, 
1  embarked  on  board  the  Steam-Boat,*  which  left. 
Black  Rock  at  nine  in  the  morning,  and  reached  De- 
troit on  the  eighth  at  twelve  at  night.  We  were  fa- 
voured with  clear  weather,  and  a  part  of  the  time 
with  a  fair  wind.  The  Boat  is  large,  uniting  in 
its  construction  a  great  degree  of  strength,  con- 
venience, and  elegance,  and  is  propelled  by  a  pow- 
erful and  well  cast  engine,  on  the  Fultonian  plan,  and 
one  of  the  best  pieces  of  workmanship  of  the  origin- 

*  Called  the  "  Waik-in-the-Water,"  J.  Rodgers,  master.  This 
boat  performed  her  first  trip  in  1818,  eleven  years  after  the  first 
introduction  of  Steam-Boats  upon  the  Huds-m,  and  139  years  af- 
ter the  first  vessel  (larger  than  an  Indian  Canoe)  was  built  upon 
Lake  Erie.     See  page  33. 


43 

al  foundry.*  The  accommodations  of  the  boat  arc 
all  that  could  be  wished,  and  nothing  occured  to  in- 
terrupt the  delight,  which  a  passage  at  this  season, 
affords.  The  distance  is  computed  at  three  hundred 
miles ;  the  time  we  employed  in  the  voyage  was  six- 
ty-two hours,  which  gives  an  average  rate  of  travel- 
ling of  five  miles  per  hour.  The  first  two  miles  after 
leaving  Black  Rock,  a  very  heavy  rapid  is  encoun- 
tered, in  ascending  which,  the  assistance  of  oxen  is 
required.  It  terminates  a  short  distance  below  the 
mouth  of  Buffalo  creek,  an  \  immediately  opposite 
ihe  village  of  Buffalo,  where  we  find  ourselves  on 
the  level  of  the  waters  of  Lake  Erie  five  hundred  and 
sixty  feet  above  the  tide  waters  of  the  Hudson  river,  f 
In  passing  through  Lake  Erie,  the  Boat  touches  at 
the  town  of  Erie,  in  Pennsylvania,  at  the  mouth  of 
Grande  River,  and  at  the  towns  of  Cleaveland  and 
Portland,  in  Ohio,  the  latter  situated  on  Sandusky 
Bay.  On  coming  out  of  this  Bay,  we  passed  a  large 
and  well  wooded  island,  which  bears  the  name  of 
Cunningham,  and  immediately  came  in  sight  of  the 
rocky  cluster  of  the  Put-in-Bay  or   Bass   Islands  J 

*  M'Queen's,  New  York. 

t  See  Report  of  the  New  York  Canal  Commissioners,  to  the 
Legislature,  accompanied  with  a  chart. 

t  "  The  Bass  islands  f  rrn  a  group  of  seven,  lying  about  three 
miles  from  part  of  the  Sandusky  peninsula  and,  as  I  have  already 
observed,  seven  or  eight  niiles  northwest  of  Cunningham's  island. 
Put-in-bay,  is  formed  by  a  curve  of  the  largest  and  most  southern 
ofthe  Bass  gr  ups,  having  two  entrances,  one  from  the  east  and 
the  other  from  the  west.  The  bay  is  very  finely  land-locked.  The 
second  large  island  of  the  group,  stretching  from  east  to  west 
across  the  widest  part  at  ha'f  a  mile  distant,  and  one  ofthe  smaller 
islands  lying  opposite  each  channel.  The  three  main  islands  do 
not  differ  much  in  extent,  though  that  in  which  is  Pu>-in-bay  is  he 
large.-t.  All  are  uninhabited,  and  coveted  with  a  dense  forest  I 
had  no  means  to  determine  their  area  with  certainty,  but  judged 


49 

which  afford  one  of  the  best  harbours  in  the  lake, 
and  have  acquired  some  celebrity  from  the  circum- 
stance of  Com.  Perry's  having  been  at  anchor  there 
on  the  morning  previous  to  the  memorable  victory 

the  three  main  islands  to  average  about  one  and  a  half  miles  long, 
and  half  a  mile  wide,  and  may  cover  from  2,500  to  3000  acres  ta- 
ken collectively,  resting  upon  a  solid  mass  of  schistose  rock  in  great 
part  limestone.  From  here  limestone,  for  the  purpose  of  making 
lime,  is  carried  as  far  as  Detroit  and  Cleaveland.  The  soil  is  ex- 
cellent, and  would  admit  a  settlement  of  thirty  or  forty  fami- 
lies. But  every  object  of  utility  to  which  the  Bass  islands  could  be 
applied,  yields  to  the  importance  of  Put-in  bay.  This  fine  haven 
admits  entrance  and  anchorage  for  vessels  of  any  supposable 
draught,  safe  from  all  winds.  It  must  become,  from  its  position 
and  depth  of  water-  an  object  of  great  national  value.  No  harbour 
in  Lake  Erie,  or  in  its  connecting  waters,  except  in  Erie  strait,  can 
in  any  respect  compare  with  it ;  its  occupation  as  a  naval  and  com- 
mercial station  must  one  day  take  place." — Darby's  Tour  to  De- 
troit, p.  185,  186. 

In  one  of  the  smallest  of  these  Islands,  called  Moss  Island, 
a  large  quantity  of  crystalized  sulphatof  Strontian,  has  recent- 
ly been  discovered. 

Having  received  several  specimens  of  this  mineral,  from  Mr. 
Win.  A  Bird,  of  Troy,  one  of  which  is  the  fragment  of  a  crystal 
weighing  two  pounds,  1  wrote  to  him  for  some  account  of  its  local- 
ity and  gf  ognostic  position,  and  shall  here,  although  without  hav- 
ing solicited  his  permission,  make  an  extract  from  the  reply,  with 
which  he  favoured  me 

"On  our  return  down  the  lake  last  fall,  (1820)  we  were  be- 
calmed near  the  Islands  in  Lake  Erie — I  took  a  boat  and  accompa- 
nied by  Maj  Delafield,  Mr.  A.  Stebenson,  and  Mr.  De  Russy  (who 
was  to  be  our  guide)  went  in  search  of  the  Strontian  to  the  main 
shore,  where  Mr.  De  Russy  says,  it  was  found  in  the  summer  of 
1819-  After  an  unsuccessful  search  of  an  hour,  we  gave  it  up  and 
determined  to  return  to  our  vessel — on  our  way  we  stopped  at 
Moss  Island,  when  immediately  on  landing,  we  found  the  mineral 
in  question, — 1  wandered  a  little  from  the  others,  and  found  the 
large  bed  of  which  I  spoke  tu  you.  We  there  procured  large 
quantities,  and  some  large  crystals. 

7 


30 

of  the  tenth  of  September,  1813*  We  passed 
through  this  cluster,  and  another,  called  the  Three 
Sisters,  which  lie  in  the  Steam-Boat  track  between 
Put-in-Bay  and  the  mouth  of  Detroit  river,  and  en- 
tered the  latter  at  twilight  on  the  eighth.  We  had 
a  view  of  the  Fort  and  town  of  Maiden  or  Amherst- 
bur«\  which  lie  a  few  miles  above  the  entrance  into 
the  river,  and  immediately  opposite  the  fertile  islands 
of  Bois  Blanc  and  Grosse  Isle.  These  were  the  last 
objects  that  could  be  distinguished  ;  the  night  was 
dark,    and  we  reached  Detroit  at  a  late  hour,  and 

"  This  Strontian  was  found  on  the  south  side  of  Moss  Island,  in 
a  horizontal  vein  of  three  feet  in  tlickness,  and  from  40  to  50  feet 
in  length.  I  had  no  means  »f  judging  its  depth  into  the  rock.  The 
bane  of  the  Inland  is  wholly  compact  limestone  in  which  shells 
scarcely,  if  ever  appear.  The  commissioner  (Gen.  P.  B.  Porter, 
acting  under  the  treaty  of  Ghent,  H.  R.  S.)  has  given  his  permis- 
sion, and  1  shall  name  this  Island  on  tie  maps,  "  Strontian  Island," 
by  which  name  I  presume  it  will  hereafter  be  known." 

The  same  substance  had  been  found  upon  an  ther  part  of  this  isl- 
and (as  appears  from  Eaton's  Geology,  p.  234.)  by  the  gentlemen 
attached  to  the  boundary  commission,  during  the  preceding  year, 
but  not  in  the  surprising  quantity  above  stated.  Professor  Dong- 
lass,  of  West  Point,  and  myself,  have  also  noticed  it  upon  Grosse 
Isle,  in  Detroit  river,  in  the  month  of  May,l820,  but  lound  no  crys- 
tals of  more  than  a  few  ounces  in  weight.  We  found  it  lining  con- 
cavities in  a  horizontal  stratum  of  compact  limestone  destitute  of 
organic  remains.  This  locality  is  astonn  quarry,  which  has  been 
opened  on  the  lands  of  Miss  A.  M'Comb  of  Detroit,  and  from 
which  a  great  proportion  of  the  Luilding  stone  of  that  city  is 
brought. 

From  these  facts  it  appears,  that  this  mineral,  hitherto  so  very 
sparingly  found  cither  in  Europe  or  America,  exists  abundantly  in 
the  region  around  the  head  of  Lake  Erie,  and  should  the  progress 
of  the  arts  require  it,  it  is  probable  that  the  compact  lime.- tone  of 
the  Erie  and  Detroit  Islands,  may  hereafter  be  found  to  yield  a  suf- 
ficient and  lasting  supply. 


01 

without  an  opportunity  of  then  witnessing  the  pictur- 
esque view,  which  the  approach  to  that  town,  and 
the  country  adjacent,  presents. 

Detroit  occupies  an  eligible  situation  on  the  west 
banks  of  the  strait  that  connects  Lake  Erie  with  Lake 
St.  Clair,  at  the  distance  of  six  miles  below  the  latter, 
and  in  north  latitude  42°  30'  according  to  the  receiv- 
ed observation.  The  town  consists  of  about  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  houses,  including  public  buildings,* 
and  has  a  population  of  fourteen  hundred  and  fifteen 
inhabitants,  exclusive  of  the  garrison. f     It  enjoys  the 

*  The  following;  is  a  list  of  (he  public  buildings  of  Detroit : 
1.  A  Roman  Catholic  church,  U6  fret  in  length,  by  6o  in  breath 
— is  110  feet  high  with  two  steeples,  has  a  chapel  under  ground  65 
feet  by  60,  originally  designed  for  a  nunnery.     Building — of  stone 
and  not  entirely  finished. 

2.  A  Protestant  Church,  built  of  wood,  painted  and  furnished 
with  a  dome  supported  by  wooden  pillars 

3.  An  Academy  of  brick — is  50  feet  long,  by  24  in  breath. 

4.  A  Penitentiary — is  built  of  stone,  two  stories  high,  and  88  feet 
by  44  on  the  ground. 

5.  The  Council  house — occupied  by  the  Indian  department,  is 
built  of  stone  27  feet  by  50. 

6.  The  banking  house  of  the  bank  of  Michigan,  36  feet  square, 
two  stories  high,  built  of  brick. 

7.  A  market  house,  60  by  30. 

8.  Government  store-house — of  brick,  100  feet  by  40. 

9.  Military  Arsenal— is  50  by  38,  two  stories  high,  built  of  stone. 

10.  The  Oidnance  store-house,  a  spacious  stone  building. 

11.  To  these  may  be  added  Fort  Shelby,  which  stands  in  the 
town,  and  the  adjoining  barracks,  capable  of  quartering  several  re- 
giments. 

t  This  is  the  result  of  the  census  of  1820,  for  the  communica- 
tion of  which,  together  with  thp  greater  part  of  the  details  I  publish 
respecting  modern  Detroit,  I  have  to  ar  knowledge  my  obligations 
to  James  D.  Doty,  Esq.  attorney  at  law,  of  that  place,  and  one  of 
the  members  of  the  late  expedition  lo  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi. 


52 

advantages  of  a  regular  plan,  spacious  streets,  and  a 
handsome  elevation  of  about  forty  feet  above  the  riv- 
er, of  which  it  commands  the  finest  views.  Very  few 
of  the  French  antiquated  buildings  remain.  There 
are  several  buildings  of  brick  and  stone,  but  the 
greatest  number  are  painted  wooden  dwellings,  in  the 
style  of  architecture,  which  is  prevalent  in  the  wes- 
tern parts  of  the  state  of  New-York.  An  air  of  ta^te 
and  neatness  is  thus  thrown  over  the  town,  which  su- 
peradded to  its  elevated  situation,  the  appearances 
of  an  active  and  growing  commerce,  the  bustle  of 
mechanical  business,  its  moral  institutions,*  and  the 
local  beauty  of  the  site,  strikes  us  with  a  feeling  of 
surprise  which  is  the  more  gratifying  as  it  was  not 
anticipated. 

The  site  of  Detroit  was  occupied  by  an  Indian  vil- 
lage, called  Teuchsagrondicrfxvhen  first  visited  by  the 
French;  and  among  the  singularities  of  its  history, 
we  find  that  it  is  one  of  the  most  ancient  European 
settlements  in  the  interior  of  the  new  world,  having 
been  a  stopping  place  for  the  Couriers  du  Bois  and 

*  Societies  at  Detroit. 

1.  The  Lyceum  of  the  city  of  Detroit.     Its  object  is  the  cultiva- 
tion of  general  science  and  literature.      Its  meetings  are  popular. 
?..  A  Society  for  the  Promotion  of  Agriculture. 

3.  A  Mechanics' Society. 

4.  A  Bible  Society. 

5.  Chapter  of  Royal  Arch  Masons. 

6.  Masters' Lodge  of  Free  and  Accepted  Masons. 

7.  A  Moral  and  Humane  Society. 

8.  A  Sunday  School  Association. 

There  are  two  catholic,  a  nrotestant  and  a  methodist  clergyman. 
12  altornies,  and  8  physicians. 

t  Coldcn'a  History  of  the  Five  Nations. 


a3 

Jesuit  Missionaries,  as  early  as  1620.  Quebec  was 
founded  in  1608  ;  Albany,  1614.  The  New-England 
Pilgrims  landed  at  Plymouth,  in  1620.  Regular  set- 
tlements do  not  appear,  however,  to  have  been  made 
at  Detroit  until  the  commencement  of  the  seventeenth 
century.  Charlevoix,  who  landed  here  in  June,  1 721, 
found  it  the  site  of  a  French  Fort  called  Ponchar- 
train,  under  the  command  of  La  Salle's  Lieutenant,  M. 
Tonti.  He  speaks  of  the  beauty  and  fertility  of  the 
country,  in  terms  of  the  highest  admiration.  "  It  is 
pretended,"  he  says,  w  that  this  is  the  finest  portion  of 
all  Canada,  and  really,  if  we  may  judge  by  appearan- 
ces, nature  seems  to  have  refused  it  nothing  that  can 
contribute  to  make  a  country  delightful ;  hills,  mea- 
dows, fi^Jds,  lofty  forests,  rivulets,  fountains,  and  riv- 
ers, and  all  of  them  so  excellent  in  their  kind,  and 
so  happily  blended,  as  to  equal  the  most  romantic 
wishes.  The  lands,  however,  are  not  all  equally 
proper  for  every  sort  of  grain,  but  in  general  are  of 
a  wonderful  fertility,  and  I  have  known  some  pro- 
duce good  wheat  for  eighteen  years  in  succession, 
without  any  manure.  The  islands  seem  placed  in 
the  river  on  purpose  to  enhance  the  beauty  of  the 
prospect ;  the  river  and  lake  abound  in  fish,  the  air 
is  pure,  and  the  climate  temperate  and  extremely 
wholesome."*  There  were  then  three  bands  of  In- 
dians located  upon  the  west  banks  of  the  strait,  be- 
tween lakes  Erie  and  St.  Clair.  The  first  on  ascend- 
ing, consisted  of  the  Dionondadies,f  a  band  of  Wy- 

*  Charlevoix's  Journal  of  a  Voyage  to  N.  America,  vol.  II,  p.  6. 

t  Called  Tiotiontatez  by   Charlevoix,  and  Amibouis  by  the 
French  generally,  but  I  follow  the  orthography  of  Colden. 


5J 

andots,*  having  high  pretensions  to  ancestry,  and 
who  were  considered  the  radical  stock  of  the  Wyan- 
dot tribe.t  Between  these  and  Fort  Ponchartrain, 
there  was  a  settlement  of  Pottawattomies,  and  be- 
yond the  fort  along  the  banks  of  Lake  St.  Clair,  the 
Ottaways  held  possession.  Charlevoix  alludes  to 
the  labours  of  former  missionaries  among  them,  who 
appear  to  have  been  most  successful  with  the  Hurons, 
but  of  the  French  settlement  which  is  stated  to  be 
of  fifteen  years  standing,  he  adds,  that  "  it  has  been 
reduced  almost  to  nothing;,"  and  points  out  to  the 
Dutchess  de  Lesdiguieres,  to  whom  his  letters  are 
addressed;  the  advantages  that  New  France  wtnild 
derive  from  a  permanent  settlement  at  that  place. 

The  history  of  Detroit,  during  thi^  early.period 
is  that  of  the  territory  of  which  it  is  now  the  capital, 
ft  was  noted  throughout  the  earliest  settlements  of 
the  colonies,  as  the  rendezvous  of  the  Couriers  du 
Bois,  and  the  mart  where  the  remote  tribes  of  the 
North  and  West,  called  collectively  the  Far  Indians^ 
by  early  writers,  exchanged  their  peltries  for  Euro- 
pean manufactures  ;  and  when  the  fall  of  Quebec 
and  Montreal  in  1759,  added  the  Canadas  to  the  Bri- 
tish crown,  Detroit  was  a  considerable  French  vil- 
lage, defended  by  a  stockaded  fort,  and  surrounded 

*  Called  Hurons  by  the  French.  Qualoghies,  by  the  Iroquois 
and  English.  This  is  one  of  the  few  Indian  tribes  in  the  U^  S. 
who  are  called  by  the  name  vvhicii  they  have  bestowed  upon  them- 
selves as  a  nation. 

f  The  council  fire  of  this  tribe,  which  is  always  the  rallying 
point  among  our  savages,  is  understood  to  be  still  fixed  at  the 
place  indicated  by  Charlevoix,as  the  residence  of  the  Dionondadies, 
viz.  at  L'rowntown,  at  the  mouth  of  Detroit  river. 

i  Colden's  Five  Nations. 


55 

with  a  farming  population.  In  the  year  1763,*(con- 
taining  then  a  British  garrison  of  three  hundred  men, 
under  Major  Gladwyn)  it  was  besieged  by  a  confed- 
eracyf  of  Indian  tribes  under  Pontiac,  an  Ottawayf 
chief,  who  displayed  such  a  boldness  in  his  designs, 
such  skill  in  negociation,  and  such  personal  courage 
in  war,  as  to  justify  us  in  considering  him  one  of  the 
greatest  men  which  have  ever  appeared  among  the 
Indian  tribes  of  North  America.§  He  was  the  deci- 
ded and  constant  enemy  of  the  British  government 
and  excelled  all  his  cotemporaries  in  both  mental 
and  bodily  vigour.  His  conspiracy  for  making  him- 
self master  of  the  town  of  Detroit,  and  destroying  the 
garrison,  although  frustrated,  is  a  masterpiece  among 

*  Carver  places  the  date  of  Pontiac's  sieg-e,  in  1762,  but  I  have 
followed  Henry,  who  was  an  officer  of  the  army  of  Gen.  Brad- 
street,  which  marched  to  the  relief  of  the  Fort  in  1764.  He  says 
the  siege  had  then  been  continued  nearly  twelve  months  and  must 
consequently  have  began  in  1763. 

Henry's  Travels  and  Adventures'in  Canada,  and  the  Indian  Ter- 
ritories between  the  years  1760  and  1776. 

t  The  tribes  composing  this  confederacy  were  the  Miamis,  Cu- 
taways, Chippeways,  Wyandots,  Pottawatames,  Mississagas, 
Shawnese,  Ottagamies  and  Winnebagoes. 

|  Pontiac  is  considered  by  Carver  as  a  Miami ;  but  those  per- 
sons best  acquainted  with  the  subject  at  Detroit,  among  whom  is 
the  present  chief  magistrate  of  the  Michigan  Territory,  consider 
him  to  have  been  an  Ottaway. 

§  There  is  but  a  single  individual  in  the  history  of  aboriginal 
chiefs  who  will  bear  a  comparison  with  Pontiac.  This  is  Tecuin- 
seh,  (a  name  still  fresh  in  every  body's  recollection,)  who,  by 
his  extraordinary  powers,  both  of  mind  and  body,  formed  a  confed- 
eration of  the  same  Indian  tribes,  under  the  British  standard,whom 
Pontiac  had  formerly  led  against  it.. 


51) 


Indian  stratagems  ;  and  bis  victory  over  the  British 
troops,  at  the  battle  of  Bloody  Bridge,  stands  unpar- 
alleled in  the  history  of  Indian  wars,  for  the  decision 
and  steady  courage  by  which  it  was,  in  an  open  fight, 
achieved.* 

*  I  cannot  resist  the  inclination  I  feel  of  giving  in  this  place,  an 
extract  from  the  interesting  account  which  Carver  has  given  of  the 
life  and  war  oflhis  extraordinary  chief. 

11  The  town  of  Detroit,  when  Pontiac  formed  his  plan,  was  gar- 
risoned  by  about  three  hundred  men,  commanded  by  Major  Glad- 
win, a  gallant  officer.  As  at  that  time  every  appearance  of  war 
was  at  an  end.  and  the  Indians  stemed  to  be  on  a  friendly  footing, 
Pontiac  approached  the  Fort,  without  exciting  any  susp;cif  os  in 
the  breast  of  the  governor  or  the  inhabitants.  He  encamped  at  a 
little  distance  from  it.  and  sent  to  let  the  commandant  know  that 
he  was  come  to  trade  :  and  being  desirous  of  brightening  the 
chain  of  peace  between  the  English  and  his  nation,  desired  that  he 
and  his  chiefs  might  be  admitted  to  hold  council  with  him.  The 
governor  still  unsuspicious,  ar.d  not  in  the  least  doubting  ihe  since- 
rity of  the  Indians,  granted  their  general's  request,  and  fixed  on 
the  next  morning  for  their  reception. 

"  The  evening  of  that  day,  an  Indian  woman  who  had  been  em- 
ployed by  Major  Gladwyu,  to  make  him  a  pair  of  Indian  shoes,  out 
of  curious  elk-skin,  brought  them  home.  The  Maj  ir  was  so  pleas- 
ed with  them,  that,  intending  these  as  a  present  for  a  friend,  he 
ordered  her  to  take  the  remainder  back,  and  make  it  iido  others  for 
himself.  He  then  directed  his  servant  to  pay  her  lor  those  she  had 
done,  and  dismissed  her.  The  woman  went  to  the  door  that  led 
to  the  street,  but  no  further;  she  then  loitered  about  as  if  she  had 
not  finished  the  business  on  which  she  came.  A  servant  at  length 
observed  her,  and  asked  her  why  she  staid  there;  she  gave  him, 
however,  no  answer. 

"  Some  short  time  after,  the  governor  himself  saw  her;  and  en- 
quired of  his  servant  what  occasioned  her  slay.  Mot  being  ahle 
to  get  a  satisfactory  answer,  he  ordered  the  woman  to  be  cal_ 
led  in.  When  she  came  into  his  presence  he  desired  to  know 
what  u.is  the  reason  of  her  loitering  about,  and  not  hastening  home 
before  the  gates  were  shut,  that  she  might  complete  in  due  time  the 


57 

The  siege  of  Detroit  was  continued  by  Pontiac, 
for  nearly  twelve  months  together,  during  which  time 
the  garrison,  although  gallantly  defended  by  the  I  ri- 
tish  commandant,  had  suffered  severely,  and  the  con- 
federate Indians  had  been  frequently  on  the  point  o£ 

work  he  h?. i  fiven  her  to  do.  She  told  him,  after  mu  h  hesitation 
that  as  he  had  always  behaved  with  great  goodness  towards  her, 
she  was  unwilling  to  take  away  the  ret;  ainder  of  the  skin  beca  se 
he  put  so  great  a  value  upon  it  ;  and  yet  had  not  been  able  to  pre- 
vail upon  herself  to  tell  him  so.  He  then  asked  her,  why  she  was 
more  reluctant  to  do  so  now,  than  she  had  been  when  she  made 
the  former  pair.  With  increased  reluctance  she  answered,  that 
she  never  should  be  able  to  bring  them  bark. 

'•  Elis  curiosity  being  now  excited,  he  insisted  on  herdisclosing  to 
him  the  sei  ret  that  seemed  to  be  struggling  in  her  bosom  for  ut- 
terance. At  last,  on  receiving  a  promise  that  the  intelligence  she 
was  about  to  give  him  should  not  turn  to  her  prejudice,  and  that 
if  it  appeared  to  be  beneficial  she  should  be  rewarded  for  it,  she 
informed  him,  that  at  the  council  to  be  held  with  the  Indians  the 
following  day,  Pontiac  and  his  <  hiefs  intended  to  murder  him; 
and,  after  having  massacred  the  garrison  a  d  inhabitants,  to  plun- 
der the  town.  That  for  this  purpose  all  the  chiefs  who  were  to  be 
admitted  into  the  council-room  had  cut  their  guns  short,  so  that 
they  could  conceal  them  under  their  blankets;  with  which,  at  a 
signal  gi\en  by  their  general,  on  delivering  the  belt,  they 
were  all  to  rise  up,  and  instantly  to  fire  on  him  and  his  attendants. 
Having  effected  this,  they  were  immediately  to  rush  into  the  town, 
where  they  would  find  themselves  supported  by  a  great  number  of 
their  warriors,  that  were  to  come  into  it  during  the  sitting  ol  the 
council,  under  pretence  of  trading,  but  privately  armed  in  the 
spine  manner-  Having  gained  from  the  woman  every  necessary 
particular  relative  to  the  plot,  and  also  the  means  by  which  she 
acquired  a  knowledge  of  them,  he  dismis-ed  her  with  injunctions 
of  secrecy,  and  a  promise  of  fulfilling  on  his  part  with  punctuality 
the  engagements  he  had  entered  into. 

"  The  intelligence  the  governor  had  just  received,  gave  him  great 
uneasiness ;  and  he  immediately  consulted  the  officer  who  was 
next  to  him  in  command  on  the  subject.     But  that  gentleman  con- 

8 


58 

carrying  the  town  by  assault.  At  length  the  ap- 
proach of  Gen.  Bradstreet.  with  3000  men,*  struck 
the  Indians  with  consternation,  and  they  met  him 
with  offers  of  peace  at  Miami  Bay.  A  few  days  af- 
terwards, on  the  eighth  of  August,  1764,  he  arrived 

sidering  the  information  as  a  story  invented  for  some  artful  pur- 
poses, advised  him  to  pay  no  attention  to  it  This  conclusion  how- 
ever had  happily  no  weight  with  him.  He  thought  it  prudent  to 
conclude  it  to  be  true  till  he  was  convinced  that  it  was  not  so  ; 
and  therefore,  without  revealing  his  suspicions  to  any  other  person, 
he  took  every  needful  precaution  that  the  time  would  ad. \it  of 
He  walked  round  the  fort  during  the  whole  night,  and  saw  himself 
that  every  centinel  was  on  duty,  and  every  weapon  of  defence  in 
proper  order 

"  As  he  traversed  the  ramparts  which  lay  nearest  to  the  Indian 
camp,  he  heard  them  in  high  festivity,  and,  little  imagining  that 
their  plot  was  discovered,  probably  pleasing  themselves  with  the 
anticipation  of  their  success.  As  soon  as  the  morning  dawned,  he 
ordered  all  the  garrison  underarms;  and  then  impar  ing  his  ap- 
prehensions to  a  few  of  the  principal  officers,  gave  them  such  di- 
rections as  he  thought  necessary.  At  the  same  time  he  sent  round 
to  all  the  traders,  to  inform  them,  that  as  it  was  expected  a  great- 
number  of  Indians  would  enter  ihe  town  that  day.  who  might  be  in. 
dined  to  plunder,  he  desired  they  would  have  their  arms  ready, 
and  repel  every  attempt  of  that  kind. 

11  About  ten  o'clock,  Pontiac  and  his  chiefs  arrived  ;  and  were  ^on- 
ducted  to  the  council-chamber,  where  the  governor  and  his  princi- 
pal officers,  each  with  pistols  in  their  belt,  awaited  his  arrival.  As 
the  Indians  passed  on,  they  could  not  help  observing  that  a  greater 
number  of  troops  than  usual  were  drawn  up  on  the  parade,  or 
inarching  about  No  sooner  were  they  entered,  and  seated  on  the 
L;kins  prepared  for  them,  than  Pontiac  asked  the  governor  on  what 
occasion  his  young  men,  meaning  the  soldiers,  were  thus  drawn  up, 
and  parading  the  streets.  He  received  for  answer,  that  it  was 
only  intended  to  keep  them  perfect  in  their  exercise. 

"  The  Indian  chief-warriur  now  began  his  ^jeech,  which  contain- 
ed the  strongest  professions  of  friendship  and  good  will  towards 

*  Henry's  Travels,  p.  182. 


59 


at  Detroit,  and  a  general  peace  ensued.  Pontiac, 
unable  to  control  the  events  of  a  war  in  which  he  saw 
himself  deserted  by  numbers  of  his  followers,  and  un- 
willing to  live  on  terms  of  friendship  with  a  people 
to  whom  he  had  imbibed  an  early  hatred,  the  conse- 
quence of  his  attachment  to  the  French,  fled  to  Illi- 
nois, where  he  afterwards  paid  the  price  of  his  en- 
mity with  his  life.* 

the  English  :  and  when  he  came  to  the  delivery  of  the  belt  of  wam- 
pum, the  parti- ular  mode  of  which,  according  to  the  woman's 
information)  was  to  be  the  ml  rial  for  his  chiefs  to  fire,  the  governor 
and  all  his  attendants  drew  their  sword-  halfway  out  of  their  seab- 
bords;  and  the  soldiers  at  the  same  instant  made  a  clattering  with 
their  arms  before  the  doors,  which  had  been  purposely  left  open. 
Pontiae.  though  one  of  the  boldest  of  men,  immediately  turned 
pale,  and  trembled  ;  and  instead  of  giving  the  belt  in  the  manner 
proposed,  delivered  it  according  to  the  usual  way.  His  chiefs, 
who  had  impatiently  expected  the  signal,  looked  at  each  other  with 
astonishment,  but  continued  quiet,  waiting  the  result. 

"  The  governor  in  his  turn  made  a  speech  ;  but  instead  of  thank- 
ing the  great  warrior  for  the  professions  of  friendship  he  had  just 
uttered,  he  accused  him  of  being  a  traitor.  He  told  him  that  the 
English,  who  knew  every  thing,  were  convinced  of  his  treachery 
and  villanous  designs;  and  as  a  proof  that  they  were  well  acquaint- 
ed with  his  most  secret  thoughts  and  intentions,  he  stepped  towards 
the  Indian  chief  that  sat  nearest  to  him,  and  drawing  aside  his 
blanket  discovered  the  shortened  firelock.  This  entirely  discon- 
certed the  Indians,  and  frustrated  their  design. 

ft  He  then  continued  to  tell  them,  that  as  he  had  given  his  word  at 
the  time  they  desired  an  audiance,  that  their  persons  should  be 
safe,  he  would  hold  his  promise  inviolable,  though  they  so  little  de- 
served it.  However  he  advised  them  to  make  the  best  of  their 
way  out  of  the  fort,  lest  his  young  men.  on  being  acquainted  with 
their  treacherous  purposes,  should  cut  every  one  of  them  to  pieces. 

*  Henry  denies  that  the  death  of  Pontiac  is  attributable  to  the 
Influence  of  the  British  government,  but  admits  that  the  account 
which  Carver  gives  of  it,  is,  in  other  respects,  correct. 


60 

After  the  close  of  Pontiac's  war,  Detroit  enjoyed 
a  period  of  tranquillity,  which  continued  until  the 
breaking  out  of  the  American  Revolution,  at  the 
close  of  which,  it  fell  by  the  definitive  treaty  of  peace 
oi  i784,  under  the  jurisdiction  of  the  United  States. 

i(  Pottiac  endeavoured  to  contradict  the  accusation  and  to  make 
excuses  for  his  suspicious  conduct ;  but  the  governor,  satisfied  of 
the  falsity  of  his  protestations,  would  not  listen  to  him.  The  Indians 
immediately  left  the  fort,  but  instead  of  being  sensible  of  the  gov- 
ernor's generous  behaviour,  they  threw  off  the  mask,  and  the  next 
day  made  a  regular  attack  upon  it 

»'  Major  Gladwin  has  nol  escaped  censure  for  this  mistaken  leni- 
ty :  for  probably  had  he  kept  a  few  of  the  principal  chiefs  prison- 
er-, whilst  he  had  them  in  his  power,  he  might  have  been  able  to 
have  brought  the  whole  confederacy  to  terms,  and  have  prevented 
a  war.  But  he  atoned  for  this  oversight,  by  the  gallant  defence 
he  made  for  more  than  a  year,  amidst  a  variety  of  discourage- 
ments. 

ii  During  That  period  some  very  smart  skirmishes  happened  be- 
tween the  besiegers  and  the  garrison,  of  which  the  following  was 
the  principal  and  most  bloody  :  Captain  Delzel,  a  hrave  officer, 
prevailed  on  the  governor  to  give  him  the  command  of  about  two 
hundred  men.  and  to  permit  him  to  attack  the  enemy's  camp, 
This  being  complied  with,  he  sallied  from  the  town  before  day- 
break ;  but  Poutiac.  receiving  from  some  of  his  swift-footed  war- 
riors, who  were  constantly  employed  in  wtching  the  motions  of 
the  garrison,  timely  intelligence  of  their  design,  he  collected  to- 
gether the  choi. -est  of  his  troops, and  met  the  detachment  at  some 
distance  from  his  camp,  near  a  place  since  called  Bloody-Bridge. 

'•  As  the  Indians  were  vastly  superior  in  numbers  to  captain  Del- 
z  1's  party,  he  wa-  soon  over-powered  and  driven  back.  Being 
now  n<arly  surrounded,  he  made  a  vigorous  effort  to  regain  the 
bridge  he  had  just  crossed,  by  which  alone  he  could  find  a  retreat  j 
but  in  doing  this  he  lost  his  life,  and  many  of  his  m.  n  fell  with  him. 
II  vever,  Major  Rogers,  the  second  in  command,  assisted  by 
Lieutenant  Brehana,  found  means  to  draw  off  the  shattered  remains 
of  their  little  army,  and  conducted  them  into  the  fort. 

u  i  bus  considerably  reduced,  it  was  with  difficulty  the  Major 
could  defend  the  town  ;  notwithstanding  which,  he  held  out  against 


61 

The  continued  hostility  of  the  Indian  tribes,  however, 
prolonged  the  period  of  its  surrender,  for  several 
years ;  and,  according  to  Herriot,*  the  transfer  of 
authority  did  not  take  place  until  1796.  The  inter- 
mediate time  was  occupied  by  the  Indian  wars,  suc- 

the  Indians  till  he  was  relieved,  as  after  this  they  made  but  few 
attacks  on  the  place,  and  only  continued  to  blockade  it. 

"  The  Gladwin  Schooner  (that  in  which  1  afterwards  took  ray 
passage  from  Michilimaekinac  to  Detroit,  and  which  I  since  learn 
was  lost  with  all  her  crew  on  Lake  Lrie,  through  the  obstinacy  of 
the  commander,  who  could  not  be  prevailed  upon  to  take  in  suffi- 
cient ballast)  arrived  about  this  time  near  the  town  with  a  rein- 
forcement and  necessary  supplies.  But  before  this  vessel  could 
reach  the  plat  e  of  its  destination,  it  was  most  vigorously  attacked 
by  a  detachment  from  Pontiac's  army.  The  Indians  surrounded 
it  in  their  canoes,  and  made  great  havoek  amon^  the  crew. 

"At  length  the  captain  of  the  schooner,  with  a  considerable  num- 
ber of  his  men  being  kiled,  and  the  savages  beginning  to  cli;ib 
up  the  sides  from  every  quarter,  the  Lieutenant  (Mr.  Jacobs,  who 
afterwards  commanded,  and  was  lost  in  it)  being  determined  that 
the  stores  should  not  fall  into  the  enemy's  hands,  and  seeino-  no 
other  alternative,  ordered  the  gunner  to  set  fie  to  the  powder- 
room,  and  blow  the  ship  up  This  order  was  on  the  i-oiut  of  be- 
ing executed,  when  a  chief  of  the  Hurons.  who  understood  the 
English  language,  gave  out  to  his  friends  the  intention  of  the  com- 
mander. On  receiving  this  intelligence,  the  Indians  hurried  down 
the  sides  of  the  ship  with  the  greatest  precipitation,  and  got  as  far 
from  it  as  possible ;  whilst  the  commander  immediately  took  ad- 
vantage of  their  consternation,  and  arrived  vvithout  any  further 
obstruction  at  the  town. 

"  This  seasonable  supply  gave  the  garrison  fresh  spirits  ;  and 
Pontiac  being  now  convinced  that  it  would  not  be  in  his  power  to 
reduce  the  place,  proposed  an  accommodation  :  the  governdtf 
wishing  as  mneh  to  get  rid  of  such  troublesome  enemies,  who  ob- 
structed the  intercourse  of  the  traders  with  the  neighboring  nations, 
listened  to  his  proposals,  and  having  procured  advantageous  terms, 
agreed  to  a  peace.    The  Indians  soon  after  separated,  and  return- 

*  See  Herriot's  Travels  through  the  Canadas,  in  IS l3. 


62 

eessively  conducted  by  genernls  Harmer,  St  Clair, 
and  Wayne,  in  which  the  bad  success  of  the  two 
former,  was  amply  compensated  by  the  decisive  cam- 
paign of  the  latter,  who  possessed  the  faculty  of  trans- 
fusing into  the  operations  of  his  army,  that  wonderful 
energy,  for  which  he  was  characterized.  By  the 
treaty  of  Greenville,  of  179,'>,  the  post  of  Detroit  was 
surrendered  to  the  United  States ;  and,  from  this 
period,  there  has  been  an  American  garrison  kept 
here,  with  the  exception  of  about  eleven  months, 
which  elapsed  between  the  surrender  of  general 
Hull,  in  1812,  and  the  re-occupation  of  the  country, 
by  general  Harrison,  in  1813. 

The  town  was  first  incorporated  by  the  Legislative 
Council  and  House  of  Representatives  of  the  North- 
west Territory,  on  the  18th  of  January,  1802. 

In  1805,  when  it  consisted,  according  to  Herriot, 
of  upwards  of  two  hundred  houses,  it  was  entirely 
destroyed  by  fire,  not  a  house  being  left  on  the  plat 

ed  to  their  different  provinces  ;  nor  have  they  since  thought  pro- 
per to  disturb,  at  least  in  any  great  degree,  the  tranquillity  of  these 
parts. 

"  Pontiac  henceforward  seemed  to  have  laid  aside  the  animosity 
he  had  hitherto  borne  towards  the  English,  and  apparently  became 
their  zealous  friend.  To  reward  this  new  atlachtnent,  and  to  in- 
sure a  continuance  of  it,  government  allowed  him  a  handsome  pen- 
sion- But  his  restless  and  intriguing  spirit  would  not  suffer  him 
to  be  grateful  for  this  allowance,  and  his  conduct  at  length  grew 
suspicious  ;  so  that  going,  in  the  year  1767,  to  hold  a  council  in 
the  country  of  the  Illinois,  a  faithful  Indian,  who  was  either  com- 
missioned by  one  of  the  English  governors,  or  instigated  by  the 
love  he  bore  the  English  nation,  attended  him  as  a  spy  ;  and  be  • 
ing  convinced  from  the  speech  Pontiac  made  in  the  council,  that 
he  still  retained  his  former  prejudices  against  those  for  whom  he 
now  professed  a  friendship,  he  plunged  his  knife  into  his  heart, 
as  soon  as  he  had  done  speaking,  and  laid  him  dead  on  the  spot." 


63 

of  the  old  town.  This  presented  the  opportunity  of 
widening  the  streets,  and  laying  out  the  town  upon 
an  improved  plan,  by  which  it  has  been  much  beau- 
tified, and  eventually  advantaged.  The  old  town 
consisted  wholly  of  wooden  buildings,  very  compact, 
with  the  streets  only  thirty  feet  wide,  resembling,  in 
this  respect,  the  antique  French  villages  in  Illinois, 
Missouri,  and  Louisiana. 

In  1810,  the  act  incorporating  the  town  was  re- 
pealed. 

On  the  16th  of  August,  181 2,  articles  of  capitulation 
were  signed,  by  which  the  fort  and  town  was  sur- 
rendered to  a  British  army  under  general  Brock, 
who  afterwards  fell  in  the  battle  of  Queenston. 

On  the  6th  of  October,  1813,*  the  town  was  re- 
occupied  by  a  division  of  the  American  army  under 
generals  McArthur  and  Cass,  and  the  latter  subse- 
quently appointed  Governor  of  the  Michigan  Terri- 
tory. 

On  the  24th  of  October,  7  815,  the  town  was  again 
incorporated  by  the  governor  and  judges  of  the  ter- 
ritory, under  the  name  of  "  the  City  of  Detroit." 

By  the  act  of  Congress,  passed  January  1 1  th,  1 805, 
it  is  declared  to  be  the  seat  of  the  Territorial  Go- 
vernment, until  Congress  shall  otherwise  direct. 

The  ordinance  of  Congress  of  1787,  prohibits 
slavery  in  the  territory.  This  ordinance  had  respect 
to  all  that  extensive  tract  of  then  unincorporated 
country,  lying  northwest  of  the  Ohio  river,  and  of 
which  the  present  states  of  Ohio,  Indiana,  and  Illinois 
form  a  part. 

These  are  some  of  the  prominent  civil  and  military 
events  of  which  Detroit  has  been  the  theatre,   and 

*  See  Fay's  Battles  of  the  late  War,  between  1S12-15. 


64 

which,  "by  eliciting,  from  time  to  time,  the  attention 
of  the  public,  have  conferred  upon  it  a  celebrity, 
which  the  most  populous  cities,  barren  of  historic 
incident,  never  attain.  This  notoriety  it  has  partak- 
en of,  in  connexion  with  the  surrounding  country, 
which  continued  to  be  the  rallying  point  of  contend- 
ing armies,  and  the  scene  of  Indian  warfare  and  In- 
dian barbarity,  during  two  of  the  most  important 
campaigns  of  the  late  war.  It  has  thus  acquired  an 
interest  from  the  sword,  which  neither  the  pen  of  the 
poet,  or  the  pencil  of  the  painter,  have  been  employ- 
ed to  excite. 

It  is  gratifying,  however,  to  behold,  that  Detroit 
does  not  acquire  its  principal  charm  from  extraneous 
circumstance-,  and  that  the  local  beauty  of  the  site, 
the  fertile  district  of  cultivated  land  by  which  it  is 
surrounded,  and  the  advantages  it  enjoys  for  the  pur- 
poses of  commerce,  arc  calculated  to  arrest  our  ad- 
miration, and  to  oiiginate  a  high  expectation  of  its 
future  destination  and  importance.  A  cursory  exa- 
mination of  the  map  of  the  United  States,  will  indi- 
cate its  importance  as  a  pi  ice  of  business,  and  a  mi- 
litary depot.  Situated  on  the  great  chain  of  lakes, 
connected,  as  they  are,  at  almost  innumerable  points, 
with  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi,  the  Ohio,  the  St. 
Law  rence,  the  Hudson,  and  the  Red  River  of  the 
JNorth,  it  communicates  with  the  ocean,  at  four  of 
the  most  important  points  in  the  whole  continent. 
And  when  these  natural  channels  of  communication 
shall  be  improved,  so  as  to  render  them  alik'  passable 
at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  the  increasing  products  of 
its  commerce  and  agriculture,  will  be  presented  with 
a  choice  of  markets,  at  New-Orleans,  New-York,  or 
Montreal,  an  advantage  derived  from  its  singular  po- 


t>7 

in  a  state  of  readiness.  Our  canoes,  our  arras,  our 
camp  and  other  equipage,  our  provisions,  a. id  the 
escort  of  soldiers  destined  to  accompany  us,  all  con- 
tributed to  furnish  causes  of  delay  ;  and  when  no 
other  obstacle  remained,  the  winds  blew  so  directly 
ahead,  that  no  progress  could  be  made  against  them. 
This  delay,  which  was  scarcely  a  cause  of  regret  to 
any  person,  and  from  which  the  expedition  eventu- 
ally experienced  not  the  slightest  inconvenience,  af- 
forded us  an  opportunity  of  acquiring  the  most  satis- 
factory knowledge  of  the  town,  the  adjacent  country, 
the  climate,  and  the  novelty  of  the  water  craft,  in 
which  we  were  to  perform  this  journey  ;  and,  per- 
haps, this  lapse  cannot  be  more  appropriately  filled, 
than  by  some  brief  notices  of  such  of  the  enumerat- 
ed topics,  as  have  not  already  been  dwelt  upon  in 
the  preliminary  remarks.  Among  these,  the  Indian 
canoe,  excited  our  earliest  curiosity ;  and  after  exa- 
mining it  with  scrupulous  attention,  and  making  a 
trial  of  its  velocity  upon  the  river,  we  were  ready 
to  say,  with  an  eloquent  writer,  "  that  its  slender 
and  elegant  form,  its  rapid  movement,  its  capacity  to 
bear  burdens,  and  to  resist  the  rage  of  billows  and. 
torrents,  excited  no  small  degree  of  admiration,  for 
the  skill  by  which  it  was  constructed."*  We  were 
struck  with  the  difference,  both  as  to  the  form  and 
materials  of  construction,  between  the  canoe,  by 
which  the  savages  formerly  navigated  the  Hudson, 
Connecticut,  and  Delaware,  and  that  which  is,  at 
present,  employed  by  the  northern  tribes.  The 
former,  as  still  remaining  among  us,  is  merely  a  log, 

*  Gouvprnpur  Morris'  Annual  Discourse,  before  the  New  York 
Historical  Society,  in  18 12.  See  their  "  Collections/'  2d  vol.  p. 
116. 


68 

which  has  been  scooped  out,  and  is,  in  every  respect, 
analogous,  according  to  Mr.  Pennant,*  to  the  monoxyla 
of  the  ancient  Germans  and  Gauls,  and  to  the  pine 
canoe  of  the  savages  of  Nootka  Sound,  except  that 
the  latter  is  supposed  to  exceed  the  ancient  Europe- 
an canoe,  in  the  elegance  of  its  form.  "  The  old 
Europeans,  says  Mr.  Pennant,  were  content  if  they 
could  but  float."  The  northwest  canoe,  is,  on  the  con- 
trary, constructed  wholly  of  bark,  cedar  splints,  the 
roots  of  the  spruce,  and  the  pitch  of  the  yellow  pine, 
productions  which  are  common,  from  the  frozen 
ocean,  situated  within  the  arctic  circle,f  to  the  pa- 
rallel of  the  forty-second  degree  of  north  latitude  ; 
antUhese  articles  are  fabricated  in  a  manner  unit- 
ing such  an  astonishing  degree  of  lightness, 
strength,  and  elegance,  and  with  such  a  perfect  adap- 
tation to  the  country,  and  the  difficulties  of  northern 
voyages,  as  to  create  a  sentiment  of  mixed  surprise 
and  admiration.  Those  of  the  largest  size,  such  as 
are  commonly  employed  in  the  fur  trade  of  the  north, 
are  thirty-five  feet  in  length,  and  six  feet  in  width, 
at  the  widest  part,  tapering  gradually  towards  the 
bow  and  stern,  which  are  brought  to  a  wedge-like 
point,  and  turned  over,  from  the  extremities,  towards 
the  centre,  so  as  to  resemble,  in  some  degree,  the 
head  of  a  violin.  See  plate  2.  iig.  1.  They  are  con- 
structed of  the  bark  of  the  white  birch  tree,  (betula 
papyracea)  which  is  peeled  from  the  tree  in  large 
sheets,  and  bent  over  a  slender  frame  of  cedar  ribs, 
confined  by  gunwales,  which  are  kept  apart  by  slen- 
der bars  of  the  same  wood.     Around  these  the  bark 

*  See  Pennant's  Introduction  to  the  Arctic  Zoology,  p.  235. 
t  See  Ilcarne's  Journey  from  Hudson's  Bay  to  the  Northern 
Ocean, 


65 

sition  on  the  summit  level  in  which  the  most  consi- 
derable rivers,  lakes,  and  streams  in  America,  ori- 
ginate. It  is  thus  destined  to  be  to  the  regions  of 
the  northwest,  what  St,  Louis  is  rapidly  becoming  in 
the  southwest,  the  seat  of  its  commerce,  the  reposi- 
tory of  its  wealth,  and  the  grand  focus  of  its  moral, 
political  and  physical  energies. 


CHAPTER  II. 


JOURNEY, 


FROM  BET IiO IT  TO  THE  ISLJjYD  OF 
MIC  II I  LIMA  CKIJYA  C. 


1  he  time  which  elapsed  between  my  arrival  at  De- 
troit on  the  8th  of  May,  and  the  date  of  our  departure 
on  the  iMth,  was  occupied  in  completing  the  prepa- 
rations for  the  transportation,  subsistence,  and  safe 
conduct  of  an  expedition  of  forty  men,  through  a 
country  where  the  woods  are  not  always  to  be  relied 
upon  for  game,  and  among  Indian  tribes,  where  a 
welcome  reception  can  only  be  certainly  ensured  by 
a  respectable  display  of  physical  power.  There  is, 
perhaps,  no  instance  in  the  history  of  voyages  or 
travels,  where  the  preparations  have  been  wholly 
completed  within  the  time  originally  contemplated. 
There  is  always  some  labour,  the  difficulty  of  accom- 
plishing which,  has  not  been  duly  estimated,  or  some 
untoward  circumstance,  wholly  unforeseen,  springs 
up  to  increase  the  number  of  obstacles  to  be  sur- 
mounted, and  to  retard  the  period  of  departure. 
Hence  several  weeks  elapsed,  after  the  navigation 
of  the  lakes  bad  opened,  and  after  the  time  original- 
ly fixed  for  our  departure,  before  we  were,  in  reality. 


71 

With  respect  to  the  climate  of  Detroit,  the  result 
of  our  observations  will  allow  us  to  speak  in  a  very 
favourable  manner.  Situated  in  the  longitude  of 
Chillicothe,  in  Ohio,  and  on  the  parallel  of  latitude 
which  embraces  Prarie  du  Chein,  on  the  Mississippi, 
and  Albany,  on  the  Hudson,  it  falls  under  that  tem- 
perate medium  of  climate,  which  is  found  so  favour- 
able to  the  cereal  gramma,  the  grasses,  and  the  fruit 
trees  of  the  United  States.  This  we  first  witnessed 
in  the  early  development  of  spring,  always  one  of 
the  best  tests  of  the  benignity  of  a  climate.  On 
leaving  Buffalo,  on  the  6th  of  May,  the  blossoms  of 
the  peach  tree  were  not  yet  fully  expanded,  and  the 
petals  of  the  apple  were  just  beginning  to  swell. 
On  reaching  Detroit,  two  days  afterwards,  the  leaves 
of  the  peach  blossom  had  fallen,  and  those  of  the 
apple  had  passed  the  heighth  of  their  bloom.  Gar- 
dening also,  which  had  not  commenced  at  Buffalo,* 
we  found  finished  at  Detroit,  and  the  half  grown 
leaves  of  the  beach,  the  maple,  the  common  hickory, 
(juglans  vulgaris),  and  the  profusion  of  wild  flowers 
on  the  commons,  gave  to  the  forests  and  to  the  fields 
the  delightful  appearance  of  spring.  These  facts 
will  go  farther  in  determining  upon  the  differences  of 
climate,  than  meteorological  registers,  which  only 
indicate  the  state  of  the  atmosphere,  without  notic- 
ing whether  a  corresponding  effect  is  produced  upon 
vegetation.  During  ten  days  of  the  period  of  our 
detention  at  Detroit,  of  which  I  kept  a  meteorologi- 
cal register,  the  mean  daily  temperature  of  the 
atmosphere,  (for  a  period  of  ten  days,)  as  indicated 

*  The  thermometer  observed  at  Buffalo  for  seven  days,  namely, 
from  April  29th  to  May  6th,  indicated  a  mean  temperature  of  44* 
at  8  o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  65?  at  2  in  the  afternoon. 


72 


by  a  Fahrenheit  thermometer,  was  61°.*  The  ave- 
rage temperature  of  the  whole  month  of  May,  at  Al- 
bany, according  to  the  observations  of  Dr.  Beck,t 
was  58°. 

By  a  journal  of  the  weather  kept  at  the  garrison 
of  Detroit,  (Fort  Shelby),  in  obedience  to  orders 
from  the  War  Department,  for  a  period  of  one  hun- 
dred and  five  days,  namely,  from  the  15th  November, 
1818,  to  the  *28th  February,  1819,  forty  days  are  re- 
marked to  be  "  clear,"  forty  "  cloudy,"  thirteen  "  va- 
riable," and  twelve  "  cloudy,  with  rain  or  snow."  The 
average  monthly  temperature  as  noted  by  a  Fah- 
renheit thermometer  during  the  same  period,  was, 
for  November  43°,  December  25°,  January  30°,  and 
February  33°.J  According  to  a  meteorological  jour- 
nal, kept  at  Albany,  during  the  same  time,§  the  ave- 


*Meteorolog 

ical  Observations,  at  Detroit. 

|      A.  M.     |P.M  | 
Date.    |6.|8.jlu|12|6|8.p 

Daily  |  Prevail 
remp.|  Winds. 

|    State  of  ilte 
|   Atmosphere. 

REMARKS 

May 

15|50|     | 

I6i|5i|«n 

52  |     N.  B 

|         Fair. 

I6|49|    1| 

|62|50|46| 

51   |     N.  E. 

|         Fair, 

I7jS0|     | 

|64|51|     | 

55   |     N.  E. 

|         Fa.r 

18J.52|     | 

|64|  ■\-i7\ 

55  |     N.  E. 

|          Fair. 

19|     |60| 

|68|60|     | 

62  (     N.  E. 

|          Fair. 

20|     |64|67|68|63|61| 

64  |N.  N.  E 

|         Pair. 

21|     |67| 

|82|66|62| 

69  |\Y.N.W 

|          Fan-. 

Til  85°  at  2  pm. 

1  "    " 

i " 

22|     |64| 

|88|82|65| 

74  |     S.  VV. 

|          Fair. 

89°  at  2. 

23|     |72| 

|84|76|62| 

73  |W.N.W 

|          Cloudy. 

Some  rain. 



24|     \53\ 

1C 

53  |   N.  W. 

Cloudy 

Left  Detroit  at  4ptu 

|(»12 

61°  average 

daily  temperatur 

e  of  May. 

t  See  Meteorological  Register,  for  the  month  of  May,  1820,  in 
the  Plough  Boy. 

J  See  notes  to  "  The  Emigrant,"  printed  by  Shelden  and  Reed, 
at  Detroit.  1819. 

$  Dr.  T.  H.  Beck,  Plough  Boy,  vol.  I,  pages  303^343. 


69 

is  sewed,  by  the  slender  and  flexible  roots  of  the 
young  spruce  tree,  called  wattap,  and  also  where  the 
pieces  of  bark  join,  so  that  the  gunwales  resemble 
the  rim  of  an  Indian  basket.  The  joinings  are  after- 
wards luted,  and  rendered  water  tight,  by  a  coat  of 
pine  pitch,  which,  after  it  has  been  thickened  by  boil- 
ing, is  used  under  the  name  of  gum.  In  the  third 
cross  bar  from  the  bow,  an  aperture  is  cut  for  a  mast, 
so  that  a  sail  can  be  employed,  when  the  wind  proves 
favourable.  Seats  for  those  who  paddle,  are  made 
by  suspending  a  strip  of  board,  with  cords,  from  the 
gunwales,  in  such  a  manner,  that  they  do  not  press 
against  the  sides  of  the  canoe.  The  Pur  Companies 
have  lately  introduced  the  use  of  oars,  in  propel- 
ling the  canoe;  but  the  natives  employ  the  cedar 
paddle,  with  a  light  and  slender  blade.  See  fig.  14. 
plate  2.  In  either  case,  they  are  steered  with  a  larg- 
er paddle,  having  a  long  handle,  and  a  broad  blade. 
See  fig.  2.  plate  2.  A  canoe  of  this  size,  when  em- 
ployed in  the  fur  trade,  is  calculated  to  carry  sixty 
packages  of  skins,  weighing  ninety  pounds  each,  and 
provisions  to  the  amount  of  one  thousand  pounds. 
This  is  exclusive  of  the  weight  of  eight  men,  each  of 
whom  are  allowed  to  put  on  board,  a  bag  or  knap- 
sack, of  the  weight  of  forty  pounds.  In  addition  to 
this,  every  canoe,  has  a  quantity  of  bark,  wattap,  gum, 
a  pan  for  heating  the  gum,  an  axe,  and  some  smaller 
articles  necessary  for  repairs.  The  aggregate  weight 
of  all  this,  may  be  estimated  at  about  tour  tons.  Such 
a  canoe,  thus  loaded,  is  paddled  by  eight  men,  at 
the  rate  of  four  miles  per  hour,  in  a  perfect  calm — is 
carried  across  portages  by  four  men — is  easily  re- 
paired at  any  time  and  at  any  place,  and  is  altogether 
one  of  the  most  eligible  modes  of  conveyance,  that 


70 

ean  be  employed  upon  the  lakes,  while  in  the  inte- 
rior of  the  northwest — for  river  navigation,  where 
there  are  many  rapids  and  portages,  nothing  that  has 
been  contrived  to  float  upon  water,  offers  an  ade- 
quate substitute.  Every  night  the  canoe  is  unloaded, 
and,  with  the  baggage,  carried  ashore;  and  if  dur- 
ing the  day,  a  storm  should  arise,  such  is  the  activi- 
ty of  the  Canadian  voyageurs,  that  ten  minutes  time 
is  sufficient  to  effect  a  landing,  and  secure  both  ves- 
sel and  cargo.  Recommended  by  these  advantages, 
we  felt  an  avidity  to  test  them  by  experience;  and, 
after  a  long  voyage,  in  which  we  have  had  occasion 
to  complain  of  the  confined  posture  of  sitting,  and  of 
the  frequency  of  injuring  the  canoes,  by  striking 
against  hidden  rocks  and  logs  of  wood,  we  have,  ne- 
vertheless, returned,  with  an  unaltered  opinion  of 
their  superior  utility  and  adaptation  for  northern 
voyages.  Such  is  the  vessel  in  which  Europeans, 
adopting  the  customs  of  the  savages,  first  entered 
the  great  chain  of  American  lakes,  and  in  which  thry 
have  successively  discovered,  the  Mississippi, — the 
Columbia,  and  the  Arctic  Sea;  and  the  coincidence 
is  deserving  of  remark,  that  it  has  been  employ- 
ed by  every  traveller  of  the  region,  from  the  time  of 
Father  Marquette,  the  Jesuit,  to  the  discoveries  of 
Sir  Alexander  McKenzie.* 

1  The  order  of  travelling,  in  this  region,  is  as  follows  r 

1.  Father  Marquette. 

2.  La  Salle. 

3.  Hennepin. 
A.  La  Hontan. 

5.  Charlevoix. 

6.  Henry. 
7-  Carver. 

8.  McKenzie. 


73 

rage  temperature  of  the  atmosphere  was  in  January 
22°,  and  in  February  29°.     These  facts,  while  they 
indicate  a  remarkable  difference  of  climate  between 
two  places  whose  received  latitudes  only  vary  nine 
degrees,*  are  calculated  to  justify  a  remark  which 
we  have  frequently  heard  from   intelligent  persons 
at  Detroit,  that  they  are  favoured  with  a  summer 
atmosphere  of  uncommon  serenity,  and   that  their 
winters  are  not  so  severe  as  those  experienced  in 
the  same  latitudes  east  of  the  Alleghany  mountains. 
The  winds  which  are  expected  at  this  season  to 
prevail  here,  as  in  the  valley  of  the  Ohio,t  from  the 
southwest,  had  blown  from  the  northeast,  shifting  to 
the  north  and  northwest,  (points  unfavourable   to 
those  who  are  ascending  through  the  lakes,)  durino- 
the  whole  period  of  our  stay  at  Detroit.     This  gave 
us  no  uneasiness  so  long  as  the  preparations  for  the 
journey  were  going  forward,  but  when,  on  the  23d 
of  May,  these  were  completed,  and  the  canoes  rea- 
dy for  embarkation,  all  felt  the  utmost  anxiety  to 
proceed,  and  the  governor,  although  suffering  from 
an  attack  of  the  fever  and  ague,  fixed  the  following 
day  for  our  departure. 

I.  Day.— {May  24th,  1820.)— It  was  late  in  the  day 
before  our  baggage  could  be  embarked.  At  four 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  all  was  in  readiness.  A 
large  concourse  of  people  had  collected  upon  the 
shore  to  offer  us  their  good  wishes,  and  to  witness 
our  departure,  when,  upon  the  word  being  given, 
the  voyageurs,  with  one  impulse,  struck  their  pad- 

*  Lat.  of  Albany,  42°  39 '.     Detroit,  42°  30 '. 
f  Drake's  Natural  and  Statistical  View  of  Cincinnati. 

10 


74 

dies  in  the  water,  and  instantly  chanting  one  of  their 
animated  songs,  we  passed  rapidly  along  the  town, 
and  in  two  hours  time,  landed  at  Grosse  Point,  on 
the  west  shore  of  Lake  St.  Clair,  nine  miles  from 
Detroit,  where  it  had  previously  been  determined 
to  encamp.  To  this  place  Governor  Cass  and  suite, 
accompanied  by  Gen.  M'Comb  of  the  army,  and  a 
party  of  gentlemen  and  ladies  from  Detroit,  who 
honoured  the  expedition  with  this  mark  of  attention, 
proceeded  by  land.  Feeling  an  anxiety  to  witness 
the  picturesque  scenery  presented  from  the  river,  I 
embirked  on  board  the  canoes  at  Detroit,  but  had 
nearly  repented  of  my  choice  before  reaching  the 
place  of  our  encampment,  forthe  wind,  which  gave  us 
no  inconvenience  of  leaving  the  shore,  soon  shifted  di- 
rectly ahead,  and  blew  with  such  violence,  that  the 
waves  broke  over  the  canoes,  and  gave  us  a  severe 
drenching.  Immediately  on  leaving  Detroit  a  canoe 
race,  and  trial  of  skill,  was  witnessed  between  the 
French  voyageurs  and  the  Indians,  (who  occupied  a 
separate  canoe,)  of  our  party,  in  which  the  expert- 
ness  and  spirit  of  the  latter,  for  sudden  and  short 
exertions,  and  the  superiority  of  the  former  for  la- 
bours long  continued,  were  handsomely  and  clearly 
manifested.  The  banks  of  the  river  present  a  com- 
pact settlement  along  the  American  shore,  in  which 
the  succession  of  farm  houses,  orchards,  and  culti- 
vated fields,  is  in  no  place  interrupted  by  forests,  or 
even  by  detached  copses  of  woods.  Every  thing 
bears  the  appearance  of  having  been  long  settled 
and  well  improved.  The  soil  is  a  deep,  black  allu- 
vion, of  the  richest  quality,  and  disclosing  on  the 
water's  edge,  pebbles  of  limestone,  granite,  and 
hornblende  rock,  mixed  with  silicious  sand,  and,  in 


73 

small  quantity,  with  iron  sand.  Farms  are  laid  out 
with  a  width  of  only  four  acres  in  front,  and  extend- 
ing eighty  acres  in  depth,  which  gives  a  compactness 
to  the  settlement  that  was  formerly  very  advanta- 
geous in  defending  the  early  settlers  against  the  at- 
tacks of  the  aborigines.  The  appearance  of  ex- 
tensive orchards,  the  wind-mills  which  occupy  every 
prominent  point  along  the  river,  the'  clearness  of  the 
water,  the  woody  islands  in  the  river,  already  co- 
vered with  green  foliage,  and  the  distant  view  of 
Detroit,  every  moment  receding  in  the  landscape, 
all  served  to  imprint  a  character  of  mildness  and 
beauty  upon  the  scene,  which  was  perhaps  height- 
ened by  the  reflection,  that  it  presented  the  last 
glimpse  of  a  refined  population  which  we  were  for 
some  time  to  witness.  On  reaching  Grosse  Point, 
we  found  the  party,  that  proceeded  by  lane1,  already 
there;  several  of  the  citizens  of  Detroit  had  previous- 
ly returned,  and  the  rest  departed  in  the  evening. 

II.*  Day. — (May  2S//&.) — A  strong  head  wind  pre- 
vented us  from  quitting  our  encampment.  The 
mean  daily  temperature  of  the  air,  and  the  water  of 
Lake  St.  Clair,  at  six  inches  below  the  surface,  have 
been  equal  at  51°  of  Fahrenheit,  which  is  5°  low- 
er than  the  mean  annual  temperature  of  the  Ohio 
at  eight  inches  below  the  surface.*  Large  masses 
of  granite,  hornblende,  limestone,  hornstone  jasper, 
mica  slate,  and  quartz,  are  lying  upon  the  margin  of  the 
lake.  The  banks  are  alluvial,  elevated  about  twenty 
feet  above  the  water,  and  with  an  undulatory  surface. 
Lake  St.  Clair  is  by  far  the  smallest  of  the  chain,  of 

*  Drake's  Statistical  View,  p.  14. 


76 

lakes,  which,  by  their  intercommunications  connect 
Lake  Superior  with  the  river  St.  Lawrence.  Its  great- 
est length  is  computed  at  30  miles,  by  a  breadth  of  25 
miles,  with  an  inconsiderable  depth,  ft  receives  a 
number  of  tributary  streams,  the  largest  of  which  are 
the  river  Huron,  from  the  American,  and  the  rivers 
Chenal  Ecarte,  and  Thames,*  from  the  Canadian 
shore.  The  latter  runs  parallel  with  the  north  shore 
of  Lake  Erie,  for  a  considerable  distance,  and  is 
noted  as  the  scene  of  General  Harrison's  victory 
over  the  British  army,  on  the  5th  of  October,  1813. 
Considered  as  a  decisive  field  battle, — as  securing 
the  safety  of  our  extensive  northwestern  frontier, — 
and  as  breaking  up  a  powerful  Indian  confederacy,  in 
the  death  of  their  celebrated  leader,  Tecumseh,t 

•  Callciwy  the  French,  "  La  Riviere  a  la  Trenche,"  and  by  the 
aborigines,  Escann-Seebe. 

t  This  noted  warrior,  was  first  made  known  to  the  public  as  the 
leader  of  the  Indians  at  the  battle  of  rl  ippacanoe,  (7th  Nov.  1811.) 
lie  hurst  suddenly  into  notice,  but  from  that  time,  until  his  fall 
upon  the  river  Thames,  the  attention  of  the  American  people  was 
constantly  rivetted  upon  him.  He  possessed  all  the  energy,  bra- 
very, sagacity,  and  fortitude,  for  which  the  most  distinguished  abo- 
riginal chiefs  have  been  celebrated,,  and  the  terror  of  his  name 
alone  kept  the  whole  line  of  our  northwestern  frontier  in  a  con- 
stant state  of  alarm.  He  projected  every  enterprize  which  the 
savages  executed  against  the  whites,  and  took  a  conspicuous  part 
in  ever,  massacre,  in  every  murder,  and  in  every  siege.  He  was 
no  less  an  orator,  than  a  soldier,  and  by  the  persuasive  power 
of  his  eloquence  formed  one  of  the  most  powerful  confederacies 
which  has  been  attempted  by  the  Indians  within  the  last  century. 
His  watchful  mind  was  ever  on  the  alert,  his  hatred  never  slumber- 
ed, and  he  held  himself  a  stranger  to  personal  fatigue.  Such  was 
Tecumseh,  who  is  reported  to  have  fallen  towards  the  close  of 
the  battle  upon  the  Thames,  in  a  personal  combat  with  Col. 
R.  M.  Johnson,  of  Kentucky.    He  was  a  Shawanee. 


77 

this  victory  may  be  looked  upon  as  one  of  the  most 
important  events  of  the  late  war. 

it  is  gratifying  to  the  expedition,  to  reflect,  that 
they  are  proceeding  under  the  orders  of  a  person, 
whose  participation  in  that  engagement,  and  in  the 
general  dangers  and  fatigues  of  the  operations  of  that 
arduous  campaign,  affords  a  pledge  of  that  decision 
of  character,  foresight,  and  personal  courage,  so  ne- 
cessary in  the  safe  conduct  of  the  voyage  before  us. 

Ill  Day — (May  26th.) — The  wind,  which  contin- 
ued unfavourable  in  the  morning,  abated  about  eleven 
o'clock,  when  we  commenced  loading  the  canoes. 
At  twelve  the  Governor  embarked,  and  we  proceed- 
ed along  the  southern  shore  of  the  lake,  to  the  en- 
trance of  St.  Clair  river,  and  up  that,  a  distance  of 
six  miles  where  we  encamped,  having  proceeded 
twenty-five  miles.  The  expedition  consisted,  on 
leaving  Grosse  Point,  of  the  following  persons : 

His  Ex:  Lewtis  Cass,  Governor  of  the  Michigan 
Territory. 

Alexander  Wolcott,  M.  D.  Indian  Agent  at  Chi- 
cago, Physician  to  the  Expedition. 

Capt.  David  B.  Douglass,  Civil  and  Military  En- 
gineer. 

Lieut.  «^Eneas  Mackay,  3c?  Regiment  U.  S.  Artillery, 
commanding  the  soldiers. 

James  D.  Doty,  Esq.  Secretary  to  the  Expedition. 

Maj.  Robert  A.  Forsyth,  Private  Secretary  to  the 
Governor. 

Mr.  Charles  C.  Trowbridge,  Assist.  Topographer. 

Mr.  Alexander  R.  Chace. 


78 

Also, — ten  Canadian  voyageurs, — seven  U.  S.  sol- 
diers,— ten  Indians  of  the  Ottaway  and  Shawanee 
tribes,  an  intcrpreterand  aguide,  making  thirty-seven 
persons  exclusive  of  myself,  and  all  embarked  in  three 
canoes.  Provisions  were  only  taken  to  serve  the  party 
to  the  island  of  Michilimackinac,  to  which  place,  the 
stores,  arms,  Indian  goods,  and  other  principal  outfits 
had  been  sent  by  vessels  in  order  to  facilitate  our 
passage  through  lake  Huron.  The  Indians  occupied 
one  canoe,  under  the  direction  of  an  Ottaway  chief. 
The  baggage  and  men  were  divided  equally.'  The 
canoes  were  moved  wholly  with  paddles,  but  a  sail 
provided  to  each,  as  well  as  a  small  standard,  bear- 
ins:  the  arms  of  the  United  States.  Each  canoe  had 
also  a  tent  or  marque,  and  an  oil  cloth,  to  secure 
baggage  from  the  effects  of  rain,  together  with  the 
necessary  gum,  bark,  and  apparatus  for  mending 
canoes.  Thus  equipped,  we  took  our  final  depart- 
ure from  Grosse  Point  about  noon,  with  a  double 
feeling  of  pleasure,  from  the  reflection  of  the  termi- 
nation of  a  delay,  which  had  so  early  retarded  our  pro- 
gress, and  the  anticipation  of  the  novel  and  interesting 
scenes,  we  were  to  encounter.  A  glow  of  satisfac- 
tion, beamed  on  every  countenance,  which  was 
heightened  by  the  serenity  of  the  atmosphere, 
and  by  the  temperate  warmth  of  the  day.  About 
two  o'clock,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  Huron  river, 
which  enters  behind  a  point  of  land,  projecting  some 
distance  into  the  lake,  and  is  a  stream  of  sixty  yards 
wide,  and  navigable  with  boats,  of  a  small  class, 
for  sixty  or  seventy  miles.  Upon  this  stream,  stand 
the  towns  of  Mount  Clemens  and  Pontiac,  both  re- 
cent, and  in  a  state  of  rapid  improvement ;  the  lands 
Upon  the  banks  of  this  river,  are  represented  as  fer- 


79 

tile  and  well  adapted  to  the  growth  of  wheat,  rye, 
and  Indian  corn.  Its  principal  forest  trees,  are  oak, 
maple,  and  blackwalnut.  From  Point  Huron,  it  is 
necessary,  in  order  to  strike  the  mouth  of  St.  Clair 
river,  and  to  save  a  tedious  voyage  around  the  shore, 
to  traverse  across  a  large  bay,  or  arm  of  the  lake, 
but  before  we  had  reached  half  the  distance,  the 
wind  arose  and  continued  to  blow  with  such  vio- 
lence, that  with  every  exertion,  little  head  way 
could  be  made,  while  the  waves  were  frequently 
breaking  across  our  canoes,  which  rendered  it  ne- 
cessary for  one  man  to  be  continually  employed  in 
bailing  out  the  water.  It  was  dark  before  we  reach- 
ed the  entrance  of  the  river,  which  consists  of  a 
number  of  channels,  separated  by  islands  partly  un- 
der water,  and  covered  with  a  heavy  growth  of  rushes, 
reeds,  and  tall  coarse  grass,  affording  no  advantages 
for  encampment,  so  that  we  were  compelled  to  as- 
cend the  river  to  the  upper  end  of  Lawson's  island, 
a  distance  of  two  leagues  where  we  arrived  two 
hours  before  midnight,  wet  and  cold,  and  passed  an 
uncomfortable  night. 

IV.  Day. — {May  26th.) — Embarked  at  seven  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  and  passed  up  the  river  thirty  miles, 
which  brought  us  to  Fort  Gratiot,  at  the  foot  of  Lake 
Huron.  The  principal  tributary  streams  of  St.  Clair 
river  are  Belle  river,  and  Black  river,  both  entering 
on  the  United  States  shore,  the  former  at  the  dis- 
tance of  fourteen,  and  the  latter  at  the  distance  of 
two  miles  below  Fort  Gratiot.  The  banks  of  the 
river  St.  Clair  are  handsomely  elevated,  and  well 
wooded  with  maple,  beach,  oak,  and  elm.  Settle- 
ments continue  for  a  considerable  part  of  the  way 


80 

on  the  American  shore,  and  contribute  very  much  to 
the  effect  of  a  district  of  river  scenery,  which  is 
generally  admired  The  lands  are  rich,  and  hand- 
somely exposed  to  the  sun.  The  river  is  broad,  and 
deep,  with  a  gravf  lly  shore  and  transparent  water, 
and  its  surface  is  chequered  with  a  number  of  the 
most  beautiful  islands.  Indeed,  the  succession  of 
interesting  views,  has  afforded  us  a  continued  theme 
of  admiration,  and  we  can  fully  unite  in  the  remark 
of  the  Baron  La  Hontan,  who  passed  this  strait  in 
1688,  "that  it  is  difficult  to  imagine  a  more  delight- 
ful prospect,  than  is  presented  by  this  strait,  and  the 
little  Lake  St.  Clair."*  In  ascending  the  river,  we 
have  successively  passed  nine  vessels  at  anchor,  be- 
ing detained  by  head  winds.  They  were  laden  with 
merchandise,  military  stores,  and  troops,  for  Michili- 
mackinac,  Green  Bay,  and  Chicago.  We  also  pas- 
sed a  number  of  Indian  canoes,  in  which  were  gene- 
rally one  family,  with  their  blankets,  guns,  fishing 
apparatus,  and  dogs.  On  conversing  with  them, 
through  our  interpreter,  we  found  they  belonged  to 
the  Chippeway  and  Ottaway  tribes,  who  are  on  a 
footing  of  the  most  perfect  friendship  with  each  oth- 
er, and  with  the  United  States.  There  are  some 
of  these  tribes  permanently  settled  on  the  Canadian 
shore  of  the  river,  which  is  generally  in  the  state  of 
nature,  and  presents  a  striking  contrast  with  the  im- 
provements on  the  opposite  shore.  The  white  in- 
habitants are  chiefly  French,  who  profess  the  Roman 
catholic  religion.  The  river  maintains  an  average 
width  of  about  three  quarters  of  a  mile,  with  a  gen- 
tle current  until  we  approach  within  three  miles 
of  Lake  Huron,  where  there  is  a  rapid  in  which  the 

#  La  Ilontan's  Voyages,  vol.  I.  p.  S3. 


81 

water  runs  with  a  velocity,  of  from  six  to  seven 
miles  per  hour.  Fort  Gratiot  stands  at  the  head  of 
this  rapid,  and  commands  the  entrance  into  Lake 
Huron.  The  site  appears  to  have  been  judiciously 
selected,  and  must  always,  in  the  event  of  a  war, 
command  the  commerce  of  the  upper  lakes,  and 
serve  as  a  check  to  the  incursions  of  the  savages.  So 
important  did  the  French  formerly  consider  this,  that 
at  a  very  early  period  the  Coureurs  du  Bois,  had 
erected  a  Fort  at  this  spot  at  their  own  expense.— 
This  was  afterwards  occupied  by  the  French  Go- 
vernment, under  the  name  of  Fort  St.  Joseph,  and  fi- 
nally abandoned  and  burnt  by  the  commandant,  La 
Hontan,  on  the  27th  August,  1688.*  This  measure 
was  adopted  upon  the  occasion  of  a  Peace,  concluded 
by  the  Marquis  de  Denonville,  Governor  of  Canada, 
in  consequence  of  which,  Fort  Niagara  had  been 
abandoned  to  the  Iroquois.  The  present  Fort  is 
understood  to  have  been  built  about  the  close  of  the 
late  war,  (1814.)  It  consists  of  a  stockade  inclosing 
a  magazine,  barracks,  and  other  prerequisites,  calcu- 
lated to  accommodate  a  garrison  of  one  battalion. 
We  found  it  eccupied  by  a  company  of  sixty  men, 
under  the  command  of  Major  Cummins,  a  prompt 
officer,  who  under  the  recent  order  of  the  War  De- 
partment, is  cultivating  an  extensive  plantation  and 
kitchen  garden.  The  expedition  was  received  with 
a  national  salute,  and  welcomed  to  the  hospitality 
and  conveniences  of  the  garrison.  We  here  return- 
ed two  soldiers  who  were  sickly,  and  received  an 
accession  of  five  able  bodied  men  to  su;  ply  their 
places.     To  cover  any  arrangements  ofthi9  kind. 

*  La  Hontan's  Voyages, 

11 


82 


which  the  exigencies  of  our  situation  might  render 
necessary,  an  order  had  been  issued  by  the  war  de- 
partment, and  transmitted  by  General  Macomb 
throughout  the  northwestern  division  of  the  army 
to  afford  the  expedition  every  necessary  assistance 
either  in  men,  boats,  or  other  facilities. 

In  passing  up  the  river,  we  have  constantly  observ- 
ed ducks,  plovers,  and  snipe  ;  and  while  walking 
along  the  shore  had  an  opportunity  to  witness  the 
manner  in  which  certain  snakes  prey  upon  inferior 
reptiles.  In  the  present  instance  a  common  green 
snake  {coluber  cesiivus)  had  seized  upon  a  frog  and 
succeeded  in  swallowing  it  alive,  saving  a  small  part 
of  the  hinder  legs,  which  were  visible  when  we  dis- 
covered it.  A  blow  at  the  snake  was  sufficient  to 
relieve  the  frog,  which  fled  towards  the  water  with- 
out having  received  much  apparent  injury.  The 
mean  temperature  of  the  air,  since  leaving  Detroit 
has  been  51°,  that  of  the  water,  52°.*  The  wind 
has  varied  little  from  northwest,  blowing  at  times 
with  some  violence,  and  so  as  to  retard  our  progress. 

No  change  in  the  geological  character  of  the 
country,  has  been  noticed,  the  shores  of  the  river 
continue  alluvial,  and  the  detached  stones  strewed 
along  the  beach,  are  of  the  same  kinds  formerly  men- 


* Meteorological  Observations  on  the  Lake,  and  River  St.  CI  > 

ir 

Date 

A  IK. 

WATER. 

Mean  dai- 
ly temp. 

Oi  >-  ■••r 

Mean  dai-  Prevail- 
ly  temp.        ing 

•ipr. 

A    .VI. 

P.  ,Vl 

A    M 

P   M. 

O;      i 

<■ 

May  84, 

8 

to 

12 

1 

■VI 
5H 

6 

H 
5  1 

1  1 

(ij  a  ]> 

2 

'•17 
loll 

I'd 

.   1 

60 

~~S3 

.'.  i 

NVA 

F      r 

5fi 
53 

52 

X     '•'   . 

Fair. 
Fair. 

Fair. 

2tf 

27 

51 
51 

N  W 
N.W. 

158            205 
52<>  wntiT  51"  air. 

83 

tioned,  among  which,  hornblende  and  granite  pre- 
dominate : — no  rock  strata  appear.  There  are  some 
tracesofiron  sand  along  the  shore.  On  ascending  the 
rapids  between  Black  river  and  Fort  Gratiot,  where 
the  current  washes  hard  against  the  south  shore,  we 
perceive  a  tenaceous  stratum  of  blue  clay  of  fifteen 
feet  in  depth,  covered  by  a  layer  of  sandy  alluvion 
of  thrice  that  depth.  What  strikes  us  as  particular- 
ly deserving  of  attention  is,  a  number  of  trees  imbed- 
ded at  the  point  of  contact  between  the  clay  and  the 
overlaying  stratum  of  sand,  and  which  the  falling  in 
of  the  bank  has  caused  to  project  horizontally 
several  feet  over  the  water  These  trees  are  also 
seen  at  various  depths  below  the  surface  of  the  sand 
bank,  together  with  fragments  of  granite  and  lime- 
stone ;  but  no  such  imbedded  substances  either  ve- 
getable or  mineral,  are  found  in  the  stratum  of  clay  ! 
Is  not,  therefore,  the  sub-stratum  of  sand  a  posterior 
formation  ?  And  do  not  the  imbedded  substances 
furnish  data  for  determining  the  relative  geological 
ages  of  the  two  alluvial  deposites  ?  These  conside- 
rations lead  us  further  to  inquire  into  the  impropriety 
of  confounding  all  earthy  strata  under  the  broad 
and  indistinguishable  name  of  alluvion,  and  whether 
they  do  not,  like  other  mineral  depositions,  admit  of 
a  classification  according  to  composition,  the  imbed- 
ded substances,  and  the  order  of  superposition.* 

*  The  views  which  I  have  formerly  suggested  with  regard  to 
alluvial  formations,  and  the  light  in  which  they  have  been  con- 
sidered by  Professor  Eaton,  of  Burlington  College,  may  be  seen  by 
a  reference  to  his  valuable  work,  entitled  An  Index  to  the  Geology 
rflhe  Northern  States,  second  edition,  p.  262. 


84 

V.  Day.— (./!%  28fA.)— We  left  Fort  Gratiot,  at 
eight  o'clock  in  the  morning.  For  the  first  half  mile, 
a  strong  rapid  is  encountered,  on  reaching  the  head 
of  which,  we  find  ourselves  on  the  level  of  Lake  Hu- 
ron, at  an  elevation  of  twenty-nine  feet  above  Lake 
Erie,  and  five  hundred  and  eighty-nine  feet  above 
the  ocean.*  Here  the  lake  spreads  amply  before 
us,  and  we  shortly  find  the  prospect,  on  the  right, 
bounded  by  an  expanse  of  water,  terminated  on  the 
line  of  the  horizon,  and  on  the  left  by  an  alluvial 
6hore,  covered  chiefly  with  a  growth  of  white  pine, 
poplar,  and  birch,  and  skirted  on  the  water's  edge, 
by  a  broad  beach  of  gravel  and  sand.  In  coasting 
along  this,  there  is  little  to  interest.  The  view  of  the 
lake,  which,  at  first,  pleases  by  its  novelty,  soon  be- 
comes tiresome  by  its  uniformity,  and  the  eye  seeks 
in  vain  to  relieve  itself,  by  some  rock  blufl,  or  com- 
manding elevation,  upon  the  shore.  One  or  two  spe- 
cies of  duck,  the  plover,  and  a  small  kind  of  gull, 
with  white  feathers  and  sharp  pointed  wings,  have 

*  These  facts  are  deduced  from  the  following;  estimates  : 
Fall  of  Detroit  river,  twenty  miles,  at  six 

inches  per  mile  ....       10  feet. 

Fall  of  St.  Clair  river,  thirty  miles,  at 

four  inches  per  mile  .         .       10  feet. 

Rapid  of  St.  Clair  river,  extending  three 

miles 9  feet. 

29  above  L.Erie, 
Elevation  of  Lake  Erie,  above  the  tide 
waters  of  the  Hudson,   according  to 
the  survey   of  the  New-York  Canal 
Commissioners  ,  560  feet. 

589 


•80 

appeared,  to  variegate  the  scene.  In  landing,  at  one 
or  two  places  along  the  shore,  we  found  the  pebbles 
and  loose  stones  to  consist,  principally,  of  horn- 
blende, granite,  sienite,  and  limestone.  Among  the 
latter,  are  several  large  masses,  containing  numerous 
species  of  petrified  remains — (concholites  and  erisma- 
tolites.)  The  soil,  after  leaving  the  head  of  St.  Clair 
river,  appears  to  degenerate,  grows  sandy  and  ste- 
rile, and  in  some  places  marshy,  and  a  marked  dif- 
ference in  the  forest  trees  is  observable.  Maples, 
and  the  beech,  and  elm,  become  rare,  and,  in  their 
stead,  we  perceive  pines,  poplars,  the  birch,  and  the 
hemlock  We  have  passed  several  considerable 
indentations  in  the  shore,  and  other  places  which 
have  names  known  to  the  voyageurs,  or  to  the  In- 
dians, but  as  most  of  them  are  trifling  or  ludicrous, 
and  I  cannot  conceive  the  bare  enumeration  of  the 
names  of  unimportant  points  and  places,  either  use- 
ful or  interesting,  I  have  omitted  to  record  them,  a 
practice,  which  I  purpose  to  adhere  to,  during  the 
future  progress  of  the  expedition.  The  Canadian 
voyageurs,  have  passed  the  greatest  part  of  their  lives 
along  these  coasts,  and  in  scenes  of  hardship  and 
danger.  These  people  are  continually  pointing  out 
to  us  places  where  they  have  formerly  encamped — 
broke  their  canoes — encountered  difficulties  with  the 
natives,  or  met  with  some  other  occurrence,  eitlier 
pleasant  or  disagreeable,  which  has  served  to  imprint 
the  scene  upon  their  memories.  There  is,  perhaps, 
not  two  miles  along  the  whole  southwestern  shore 
of  Lake  Huron,  which  is  not  the  scene  of  some  such 
occurrence.  It  is  by  no  means  certain,  however, 
that  such  pointy  are  designated  by  names  in  univer- 
sal use,  even  among  themselves  ;  and  in  a  country. 


86 

where  there  are  no  permanent  settlements,  local  ap- 
pellations are  necessarily  subject  to  be  changed,  or 
fall  into  disuse  There  are,  however,  certain  pro- 
minent points  and  features,  in  the  topography  of  eve- 
ry savage  country,  which  are  universally  known  by 
established  names  among  themselves,  and  deserve  to 
be  perpetuated  in  the  permanent  geography  of  the 
country.  Such  are  the  names  of  all  rivers,  streams, 
bays,  promontories,  and  mountains,  which  are  proper 
subjects  to  enrich  our  maps,  and  to  employ  the  pen 
of  the  tourist. 

We  progressed  thirty-five  miles  during  this  day, 
in  a  general  course  northwest,  and  encamped  upon 
the  open  beach  of  the  lake.  The  wind  has  been 
lightly  ahead.  The  greatest  observed  heat  of  the 
atmosphere,  has  been  «r)5°;  the  water  of  Lake  Huron 
standing,  at  the  same  time,  at  58°. 

VI.  Day. — (May  29th.) — In  passing  along  the  mar- 
gin of  the  lake,  for  a  distance  of  thirty  miles,  little 
diversity  in  the  natural  appearances  of  the  country, 
has  been  presented.  At  the  distance  of  about  fif- 
teen miles  beyond  our  encampment  of  the  twenty- 
eighth,  the  shore  of  the  lake  assumes  an  elevation 
of  thirty  or  forty  feet,  terminating  in  a  perpendicu- 
lar bank  at  the  water's  edge,  which  continues  six  or 
eight  miles.  While  passing  along  this  cost,  at  the 
distance  of  one  or  two  miles,  it  was  difficult  to  de- 
termine, even  with  the  aid  of  an  excellent  magnify- 
ing glass,  whether  this  bank  consised  of  a  ledge 
of  rocks,  or  a  stratum  of  compact  clay.  Its  dark 
colour  led  us  to  suppose  it  was  bituminous  slate, 
fragments  of  which  had  been  observed  upon  the 
shore,  at  no  great  distance  beyond  the  point  of  its 


87 

termination  ;  but  this  doubt  was  satisfactorily  solved 
upon  our  return,  when  that  part  of  the  shore  was 
found  to  consist  of  a  stratum  of  dark  tenacious  blue 
clay,  the  colour  of  which  was  rendered  more  intense, 
by  the  dashing  of  the  waves  against  the  foot  of  the 
bank,  and  which  thus  kept  it  continually  wetted,  for 
eight  or  ten  feet  above  the  common  level  of  the  wa- 
ter A  few  miles  beyond  the  termination  of  this  clay 
bank,  (about  fifty-five  miles  above  Fort  Gratiot,)  we 
passed  the  White  Rock,  an  enormous  detached  mass 
of  transition*  limestone,  standing  in  the  lake,  at  the 
distance  of  half  a  mile  from  the  shore.     This  is  an 

*  Notwithstanding  the  objections  which  have  been  urged  against 
this  class  of  rocks,  by  Greenough,  Maccullough,  and  other  iate  g:e- 
olosrical  writers,  I  find  it  necessary  to  employ  the  term  "  transi- 
tion," as  a  generic  for  those  rocks,  which  possess  characters  in- 
termediate between  the  floetz  and  the  primary  strata.  Of  this  in- 
termediate character,  the  White  Rock  of  Lake  Huron,  presents  an 
example,  which  is  the  more  worthy  of  remark,  as  the  entire  mass 
appears  to  be  unconnected  with  any  continuous  stratum,  and  with 
respect  to  original  position,  is  out  of  place.  I  shall  not  here 
stop  to  enquire,  by  what  means  it  has  been  transported  into  a  re- 
gion, to  which  it  appears  foreign.  The  limits  of  this  note  will 
barely  permit  me  to  mention  the  fact  of  its  apparent  translation 
from  its  original  and  parent  bed  A  glympse  of  the  recent  frac- 
ture is  sufficient  to  satisfy  us,  that  it  is  not  a  secondary  rock,  while 
the  crystalline  and  granular  structure,  and  the  absence  of  organic 
reliqua,  appear  equally  conclusive,  of  its  primary  character.  In  the 
ha>te  of  the  moment,  we  had,  therefore,  referred  it  to  the  class 
of  primitive  limestone  ;  but  a  recent  examination  of  the  specimens 
we  procured,  shews,  that  the  crystallization  is  not  perfect,  and 
the  fracture  discloses  numerous  small  cavities,  which  have  not  been 
observed  in  the  alpine  limestone.  It  will  not  bear  a  comparison 
with  any  specimens  of  well  characterized  granular  limestone  irt 
my  possession  ;  but  the  most  conclusive  circumstance,  is  a  petri- 
fied madrepore,  recently  noticed  in  one  of  the  specimens.  What, 
therefore,  is  neither  decidedly  primordial,  or  floetzose,  we  must 
be  permitted  still  to  consider,  "  transition," 


88 

object  looked  upon  as  a  kind  of  mile-stone  by  the 
voyageurs,  and  is  known  to  all  canoe  and  boat  travel- 
lers of  the  region.  It  has  already  found  a  place  up- 
on some  maps.  The  White  Rock  is  an  object  which 
had  attracted  the  early  notice  of  the  Indians,  who 
are  the  first  to  observe  the  non-conformities  in  the 
appearances  of  a  country ;  and  it  continues  to  be 
one  of  the  places  at  which  offerings  are  made. 
How  far  these  offerings  are  to  be  considered  as  par- 
taking of  the  nature  of  religious  worship,  will  admit 
of  great  diversity  of  opinion.  We  have  heard  much 
speculation  concerning  the  religion  of  the  Indians, 
and  the  subject  has  recently  called  forth  the  talents 
and  research  of  a  very  interesting  writer,*  but  the 
want  of  opportunities  of  personal  observation,  has 
led  him  into  some  conclusions,  which  we  do  not  think 
warranted  by  the  existing  state  of  society  among 
the  northern  Indians.  In  the  true  acceptation  of  the 
term,  the  Indians  have  no  religion  ;  but  they  believe 
in  the  existence  of  a  great  invisible  spirit,  who  re- 
sides in  the  region  of  the  clouds,  and  by  means  of  in- 
ferior spirits,  throughout  every  part  of  the  earth.  It 
is  not  ascertained,  however,  that  they  acknowledge 
the  gift  of  life  from  this  spirit,  or  pay  him  the  homage 
of  religious  adoration.      Manitorf  in  the  Indian  lan- 

*  Dr.  J.irvis.  See  the  Annual  Discourse  before  the  New- York 
Historical  Society,  1819- 

f  This  word  is  employed  to  signify  the  same  thing,  by  all  the 
tribes  extending  from  the  Arkansaw  to  the  sources  of  the  Missis- 
sippi ;  and,  according  to  Mackenzie,  throughout  the  arctic  regions. 
It  may,  with  many  others,  (the  collec  tion  of  which  would  form 
the  subject  of  a  very  interesting  work,)  be  quoted  to  strengthen 
an  opinion,  for  which  there  appears  ample  grounds,  that  the 
erratic  tribes,  of   the  northwestern  region,  and  of  the  valley 


89 

guage,  signifies  "  spirit."  They  have  good  and  bad 
manitoes  ;  great  and  small  manitoes  ;  a  manito 
for  every  cave,  water-fall,  or  other  commanding  ob= 
ject  in  nature,  and  generally  make  offerings  a!  such 
places.  These  tributary  acknowledgments,  howev- 
er, we  have  observed,  are  such  things  as,  in  their 
nature,  are  perfectly  useless  to  the  savages  ; — a 
broken  gun  barrel,  a  pair  of  old  mockasins  or  leggins, 
a  broken  paddle,  or  other  useless  or  trifling  article. 
Small  bits  of  carrot  tobacco  are  the  only  valu- 
able offering  we  have  observed,  but  they  never  leave 
a  silver  arm  band,  a  beaver  skin,  a  knife,  a  hatchet, 
or  other  substance  of  utility.  Neither  is  there  that 
solemnity  observed  in  making  these  deposites  which 
lias  been  represented; — nor  does  there  appear  to  be 
any  obligation  upon  individuals  to  make  them,  or  to 
ren°w  them,  at  any  regular  periods.     The  thing  ap» 

of  the  Mississippi,  are  all  descendants  from  one  stock,  which  is 
presumed  to  have  progressed  from  the  north  towards  the  south? 
scattering  into  different  tribes,  and  falling:  from  the  purity  of  a  lan- 
guage, that  may  have  originally  been  rich  and  copious.  Among 
those  who  are  disposed  to  make  great  allowance?,  for  the  corrup- 
tions that  have  crept  into  the  languages  of  the  aborigines  of  Ame- 
rica, we  find  the  most  celebrated  traveller  of  the  age.  ''What 
some  learned  writers  have  asserted,  from  abstract  theories,  respect- 
ing the  pretended  poverty  of  the  American  languages,  and  the  ex- 
treme imperfection  of  their  numerical  system,  is  as  doubtful  as  the 
assertions  which  have  been  made  respecting  the  weakness  and 
stupidity  of  the  human  race,  throughout  the  new  continent — the 
stunted  growth  of  animated  nature,  and  the  degeneration  of  those 
animals,  which  have  been  transported  from  one  hemisphere  to  the 
other.  Several  idioms,  which  now  firm  the  language  of  barba- 
rous nations  only,  seem  to  be  wrecks  of  languages,  once  rich,  flex- 
ible, and  belonging  to  a  more  cultivated  state." — Humboldt's  Re- 
searches, vol.  I.  p.  20. 

12 


'JO 

pears  entirely  optional,  and  is  often  accidental.  Of- 
fering* are  made  when  they  happen  to  pass  by  any 
scene  capable  of  exciting  wonder;  but  they  seldom, 
if  ever,  undertake  journies  to  perform  them.  Their 
bad  manitoes  answer  to  our  Devil,  but  I  have  not 
learned,  that  their  bad  manitoes  are  considered  to 
be  subservient  to  one  great  bad  manito.  Neither 
do  I  know,  that  the  connexion  existing  between  the 
good  man  toes,  from  the  most  inferior  up  to  the 
great  spirit,  is  precisely  what  I  have  stated  it  to  be, 
or  that  there  is  any  fixed  and  uniform  understan  ing 
among  them  respecting  it;  but  my  impression  is,  that 
an  understanding  of  this  kind  is  universal. 

All  are  more  or  less  superstitious,  and  believe  in 
miraculous  transformations,  ghosts,  and  witchcraft. 
They  have  jugglers  and  prophets,  who  predict 
events,  who  interpret  dreams,  and  who  perform  in- 
cantations and  mummeries.  Great  solemnity  is  ob- 
served on  occasions  of  this  kind,  when  men  and  wo- 
men are  ceremoniously  arranged  around  the  walls  of 
a  cabin  appropriated  to  these  mysteries,  and  while 
they  alternately  assist  in  the  performance  of  a  round 
of  unintelligible  ceremonies,  the  spectator  finds  a 
difficulty  in  restraining  his  laughter.  A  magic  rod 
suddenly  darted  at  the  person  who  is  the  subject  of 
operation,  causes  him  to  fall  as  if  struck  dead.  A 
whiff  from  a  tobacco  pipe  communicates  new  spirit 
to  him,  and  he  arises  reinstated  in  his  former  health 
of  body  or  mind.  The  most  remarkable  of  these  eer- 
errionies.  is  called  the  medicine  dance,  where  all 
sorts  of  bodily  ailments,  are  affected  to  be  cured; 
and  persons  if)  the  last  stages  of  existence  are  some- 
times brought  out  to  undergo  these  ceremonies,  wh<?> 


91 

die  while  they  are  performing.  Yet  their  faith  is  not 
destroyed  ;  it  is  considered  the  signal  interposition 
of  some  bad  spirit  who  has  prevented  the  operation 
of  the  medicine,  that  is,  the  ceremony,  for  physical  aids 
are  not  relied  upon  in  these  cases;  and  if  one  in  ten 
who  have  been  subjects  of  operation,  recover,  the 
success  in  that  case  is  alone  dwelt  upon,  and  the  nine 
unsuccessful  ones  disregarded.  Such  is  the  religion, 
— the  superstition,  and  the  knowledge  of  medicine 
of  the  lake  savages,  blended  as  they  appear.  It  is 
difficult  to  separate  them,  and  to  say  how  much 
may  be  considered  religious,  or  mere  mummery. 
Much  allowance,  however,  is  to  be  made  on  account 
of  our  ignorance  ot  their  languages, — on  account  of 
bad  interpretation,  and  the  unfavourable  sentiments 
we  may  entertain  from  early  prejudices,  or  from 
other  causes,  which  are  apt  to  influence  our  opin- 
ions and  views. 

As  to  the  success  which  has  attended  the  attempts 
to  introduce  Christianity  among  them,  it  is  difficult 
to  perceive,  that  any  material  change  has  been 
worked  among  the  tribes  so  remote.  The  French 
Missionaries  were  the  most  successful,  particularly 
with  the  Hurons,  and  many  of  the  Indians  still  retain 
some  of  the  signs  and  symbols  of  the  Catholic  reli- 
gion. Silver  crosses  delivered  to  them  a  century 
ago  by  Jesuit  priests  are  still  preserved  and  worn, 
and  they  profess  a  great  veneration  for  them.  This 
religion,  striking  as  it  has  always  appeared  to  the  il- 
literate and  vulgar,  by  its  splendid  ceremonies  and 
external  signs,  appears  to  have  presented  great  at- 
tractions for  the  Indians.  They  do  not  appear,  how* 
ever,  to  retain  any  notions  of  the  doctrines  taught, 


92 

and  so  far  ns  1  have  been  able  to  learn,  do  not  wish  to 
be  disturbed  by  tbe  introduction  of  any  religion,- pre-* 
fering,  in  their  emphatic  language  "to  follow  the  re- 
ligion of  their  fathers."  They  may  not,  however,  be  the 
proper  judges  in  this  casf,  and  it  requires  the  atten- 
tion and  perseverance  of  christians  and  religious  so- 
cieties to  effect  a  moral  reform  among  them.  Of  the 
feasibility  of  well  directed  efforts,  there  can  be  no 
doubt;  but  hitherto  the  little  attention  which  has 
been  bestowed  upon  them,  seems  to  have  reached 
them  through  missionaries  badly  selected  for  the 
task.  The  savage  mind,  habituated  to  sloth,  is  not 
easily  roused  into  a  state  of  moral  activity,  and  is  not 
at  once  capable  of  embracing  and  understanding 
the  sublime  truths  and  doctrines  of  the  evangelical 
law.  It  is  necessary  that  letters,  arts,  and  religion 
should  go  hand  in  hand.  It  is  probable,  also,  that 
a  plainer  and  more  familiar  mode  of  explanation  than 
that  commonly  practised  in  refined  society,  would  be 
found  productive  of  its  advantages,  at  least,  in  the 
commencement  of  moral  and  religious  instruction. 

On  embarking  this  morning  we  had  the  wind  light- 
ly ahead,  which  continued  during  the  forenoon,  but 
changed  so  that  we  were  able  to  make  use  of  our  sails 
in  the  afternoon.  About  four  o'clock  the  weather 
became  cloudy  and  hazy,  and  the  wind  increased 
in  violence,  attended  by  thunder.  A  storm  was  has- 
tily gathering,  and  the  lake  became  so  much  agita- 
ted that  it  was  thought  prudent  to  land  and  encamp. 
We  effected  a  landing,  with  some  difficulty,  on  a  very 
shallow  shore,  and  dangerous  from  the  number  of  de- 
tached stones  projecting  above  the  water,  or  mere- 
ly hid  beneath  it;  and  pitched  our  tents  on  a  narrow 


93 

neck  of  land  nearly  separated  from  the  main  shore, 
and  covered  with  a  beautiful  growth  of  forest  trees. 
Shortly  after  our  arrival  at  this  place  a  vessel  hove 
in  sight,  and  afterwards  came  to  anchor  within  half 
a  mile  of  the  land,  the  wind  blowing  a  gale  ashore. 
Y\  e  were  apprehensive  the  vessel  would  be  driven 
from  her  mooring,  but  the  night  passed  without  ac- 
cident. In  the  course  ofthedaywe  passed  several 
canoes  of  Indians,  and  uniformly  found  them  in  want 
of  provisions. 

VII.  Day — (May  30th.) — Detained  by  unfavoura- 
ble winds.  The  shore  of  the  lake  is  strewed 
with  water  worn  masses  of  rocks  of  the  same  kinds 
already  mentioned,  and  we  still  find  granite  and  horn- 
blende to  predominate.  No  rock  has,  however,  yet 
appeared  in  situ.  The  lands  adjoining  our  encamp- 
ment, are  generally  low  and  swampy,  and  the  forest 
consists  of  hemlock,  birch,  ash,  oak,  and  some  maple. 
Among  the  plants  the  convallaria  augustifolia,  and  a 
species  of  Indian  Brassica,  have  been  noticed.  The 
margin  of  the  lake  is  skirted  with  bull-rushes,  quake 
grass,  (briza  canadensis,)  and  other  aquatic  plants. 
The  greatest  observed  heat  of  the  air  has  been  53°, 
wind  N.  E. 

VIII.  Day.— (May  31**.)— Still  detained  by  head 
winds.  In  loitering  along  the  shore  ofthelake,examin- 
ingthe  loose  stones,  Idiscovered  inadetachedblockof 
mica  slate,  several  large  and  well  defined  crystals  of 
staurotide,*  of  a  dark  reddish  brown  colour,  moderate 

*  To  prevent  a  rrisapprehension  arising  fr)m  the  variety  of 
names  which  have  been  applied  by  mineralogists  to  the  same  sub- 


91 

hardness,  and  perfectly  opaque.  Near  the  same- 
spot  a  number  of  petrifactions  {cetteporites  and  mad  re- 
porites,)  were  observed  in  the  detached  fragments  of 
limestone,  found  along  the  coast ;  but  what  excited  a 
particular  interest,  was  a  large  block  of  granitic 
rock  imbedding  globular  pebbles  of  hornblende. 
This  rock,  as  being  a  quarternaiy  compound  of  feld- 
spa  r,  quartz,  mica,  and  hornblende,  would  be  consider- 
ed a  granilUe  according  to  the  suggestions  of  Kirwan. 
The  masses  of  hornblende,  which  are  in  most  in- 
stances pure  and  unmixed,  in  others  contain  feld- 
spar and  quartz,  thus  indicating  a  transition  of  one 
substance  into  the  other  which  does  not  admit  of  a 
ready  explanation.  Will  the  present  state  of  mine- 
ralogical  science,  justify  us  in  considering  this  sub- 
stance as  a  primitive  breccia  ?  or  is  it  a  granitic 
porphyry  ? 

stance,  an  introduction  of  synonomies  has  become  necessary  in 
all  elementary  works  on  mineralogy  ;  nor  does  it  appear  less  re- 
quisite in  books  of  general  information,  which  are  often  read  by 
tlmse  whose  business  or  leisure  does  not  permit  a  reference  to  ele- 
mentary treatises.  It  must  moreover,  be  considered  a  fault  in  eve- 
ry hook, which  compels  its  readers  to  hunt  over  scarce  or  voluminous 
works  for  insulated  facts,  which  are  the  only  parts  of  such  works, 
that  happen  at  the  time,  to  interest  them.  I  shall,  therefore,  perhaps 
accumulate  a  body  of  notes,  which  will  not  recommend  this  narrative 
to  readers  of  a  certain  class,  but  I  shall  aim  to  introduce  no  more 
than  appears  to  me  necessary  to  a  correct  understanding  of  the 
subjects  brought  into  view.  In  the  present  instance  I  have  follow- 
ed Cleavelarfd  in  designating  a  certain  crystalline  combination  of 
alu::;ii;'. ,  t-ilex,  and  oxide  of  iron,  staurotide.  The  same  substance  is 
called  Grqnatit  by  Werner,  and  Grenafite  by  Jameson  and  Bro- 
ehant.  An  analysis  of  this  mineral,  by  Klaproth,  gave  alumine 
52.25,  silex  27,  oxide  of  iron  18.50,  oxide  of  manganese  0.2 5.  =9 8. 


9b 

IX.  Day. — (June  1st.) — The  wind  abating,  we  em- 
barked this  morning  at  six  o'clock,  but  on  proceed- 
ing about  one  league,  it  again  arose  to  such  a  pitch, 
that  it  became  necessary  to  effect  a  speedy  landing. 
Such  are  the  delays  to  which  our  voyage  is  contin- 
ually exposed.  Shortly  after  landing  the  Indians 
were  sent  into  the  woods  in  quest  of  game,  and  a  par- 
ty of  soldiers  and  engagees  went  to  an  adjacent  riv- 
er for  the  purpose  of  fishing,  but  after  an  absence  of 
four  or  five  hours,  both  parties  returned  without 
success.  In  the  mean  time,  the  agitation  of  the  lake 
had  ceased,  and  the  wind  sprung  up  in  our  favour; 
we,  therefore,  embarked  again  at  three  in  the  after- 
noon, and  proceeded  under  sail  to  Saganaw  Bay,  a 
distance  of  twenty-five  miles,  where  we  encamped 
after  twilight,  having  successively  passed  Elm  creek, 
Black  river,  and  Point  aux  Barques, — the  latter  form- 
ing the  southeastern  cape  of  Saganaw  Bay. 

At  the  distance  of  a  league  before  reaching  Point 
aux  Barques,  we  perceive  the  first  stratum  of  rock 
in  situ,  which  consists  of  a  secondary  sandstone  ofa 
greyish  white  colour  and  very  friable  texture.  It 
forms  a  horizontal  ledge  of  from  ten  to  twenty  feet  in 
height,  immediately  upon  the  lake  shore,  but  the 
continuity  of  the  stratum  is  interrupted  by  small  bays 
and  inlets,  worn  into  the  rock  by  the  violence  of  the 
storms  and  tempests,  which  prevailing  from  the  north, 
have  an  uninterrupted  sweep  from  the  Straits  of  St. 
Mary,  across  the  widest  part  of  the  lake,  until  they 
are  opposed  by  the  perishable  sand-tone  of  Point  aux 
Barques.  Here  the  waves  beat  with  the  utmost  fury, 
and  by  prostrating  the  opposing  barrier  iito  heaps  of 
sand,  have  manifestly  extended  the  dominions  of  the 


'9t> 

lake,  while  the  winds  have  heaped  the  disintegrated 
ruins  into  vast  sand  hills  and  ridges,  that  skirt  the 
borders  of  the  lake,  and  exhibit  all  the  fanciful  forms 
which  a  tempest  is  capable  of  communicating  to  the 
drifting  sands  of  the  ocean.  These  ridges  are  now 
covered  with  a  growth  of  the  pitch  pine,  the  Ameri- 
can aspen,  and  the  pyrola  rotundifolia; — productions, 
which  delight  to  grow  upon  the  most  sterile  sand 
banks.  Insulated  masses  of  the  rock  covered  with 
forest  trees,  form  several  islands  in  the  lake  along  this 
coast  at  the  distances  of  o.f,e,  and  two  miles,  and  b\ 
the  perfect  similarity  of  the  stone, — its  horizontal  po- 
sition, and  other  geological  correspondences  re- 
main as  the  monuments  of  their  former  connexion 
with  the  main  land.  These  operations  give  to  this 
part  of  the  lake,  and  particularly  to  the  outer 
shores  of  Saganaw  Bay,  a  broad  beach  of  sand 
intervening  between  the  woods  and  the  water, 
which  affords  innumerable  harbours  for  encamp- 
ing, and  one  of  the  safest  shores  for  boat  and  ca- 
noe navigation.  The  frailty  of  these  vessels  is  not 
here  threatened  by  those  hidden  blocks  of  granite 
and  other  primary  stones,  which  we  have  found  so 
very  annoying  along  the  coast  between  Fort  Gratiot 
and  Point  aux  Barques, — for  with  the  commencement 
of  the  sand  rock,  and  sand  beaches,  these  substances 
have  entirely  disappeared.  If,  as  along  other  parts 
of  this  lake,  these  detached  masses  of  primary  for- 
mation, once  lined  the  shores  of  Saganaw  Bay  and 
the  adjacent  coast,  the  subsequent  inroad  of  the  lake 
upon  the  main  shore,  has  left  them  at  the  bottom  of 
the  water  at  the  distance  of  a  mile  or  two  off  land. 


97 

As  the  sand  stone  of  Point  aux  Barques,  has  no  over- 
laying stratum  of  rock,  and  the  water  prevents  us 
from  ascertaining  that  upon  which  it  rests,  some 
difficulty  would  arise  in  pointing  out  its  geological 
character,  were  it  not  indicated  by  the  organic  re- 
mains (erismatolites)  which  we  find  in  a  state  of 
petrifaction,  in  the  most  compact  parts  of  it. 

Saganaw  Bay  is  by  far  the  largest  of  the  numerous 
inlets  which  serve  to  indent  the  very  irregular  shores 
of  Lake  Huron.  It  is  computed  to  be  sixty  miles  in 
depth,  and  thirty  in  width,  and  has  a  number  of 
small  islands,  the  most  considerable  of  which  is 
Shawangunk  Island,  situated  nearly  in  its  centre. 
The  navigation  is  safe  for  vessels  of  any  burden,  and 
its  numerous  coves  and  islands,  present  some  of  the 
best  harbours  in  the  lake.  At  its  southern  extremity 
it  receives  Saganaw  river,  a  large  and  deep  stream 
with  bold  shores,  and  made  up  of  a  great  number  of 
tributaries,  which  irrigate  an  extensive  country, 
reputed  to  be  one  of  the  most  fertile  and  delightful 
in  the  Territory  of  Michigan.  The  banks  of  this 
stream  are  now  inhabited  by  detached  bands  of  Chip- 
peway  and  Ottaway  Indians,*  who  have  long  enjoyed 
the  advantages  of  an  easy  subsistance,  from  the  fine 
hunting  grounds  in  that  vicinity,  and  the  abundance 
of  fish  afforded  by  the  bay  and  other  tributary  wa- 
ters.    These  lands  have  recently  been  disposed  of 

*  It  is  understood  that  the  northern  missionary  society  of  the 
city  of  Albany  are  about  to  establish  a  missionary  family  upon 
some  of  the  tributary  streams  of  Saganaw  river,  and  that  an  agent 
has  been  sent  out  to  explore  the  country,  and  to  report  upon  the 
feasibility  of  the  design. 

13 


98 

to  the  United  States  government,  and  will  shortly  be 
thrown  into  market.  From  the  terms  ot  high  admi- 
ration of  which  all  continue  to  speak  of  the  riches  of 
the  soil,  and  the  natural  beauty  of  the  country,  and 
its  central  and  advantageous  position  for  business, 
we  are  !^d  to  suppose  that  it  presents  uncommon  in- 
citement? to  enterprising  and  industrious  farmers  and 
mechanics. 

X.  Day — [Jane  2d.) — In  order  to  cross  Saganaw 
Bay  with  safety  in  a  canoe,  it  is  necessary  to  pass  up 
the  eastern  shore  from  Point  aux  Barques  to  Point 
aux  Chenes,  a  distance  of  eighteen  miles.  Here,  if 
the  lake  be  calm,  the  voyageur  crosses  by  a  stretch 
of  twenty  miles  to  the  opposite  shore,  with  the  advan- 
tage of  landing  on  the  island  ofShawangunk,  should  a 
storm  overtake  him  in  the  centre  of  the  Bay,  which 
is  frequently  the  case.  On  gaining  the  opposite 
shore,  it  is  necessary  to  pass  down  the  bay  about 
the  same  distance  that  was  formerly  ascended,  be- 
fore the  open  lake  is  again  reached.  The  entire 
crossing  can  easily  be  performed  in  one  day  if  the 
weather  is  favourable,  but  this  does  not  always  hap- 
pen, and  the  fatal  accidents  that  have  formerly  be- 
fallen those  who  were  too  venturesome,  have  opera- 
ted as  a  severe  caution  to  voyageurs  and  canoe-tra- 
vellers of  the  present  day.  so  that  it  is  difficult  to  in- 
duce the  former  to  attempt  it,  unless  the  weather  be 
perfectly  clear  and  the  bay  calm.  Fortunately,  we 
were  not  detained  by  these  causes,  and  effected  the 
crossing  and  re-entry  ofthe  lake  at  so  seasonable  an 
hour,  that  we  were  allowed  time  to  proceed  two 
leagues  beyond,  and  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  the 


99 

nver  aux  Sables,  making  an  entire  distance  of  fifty-sis. 
miles.  In  crossing  the  bay  we  landed  a  few  moments 
upon  Shawangunk  island  which  is  found  to  be  based 
upon  compact  limestone,  and  contains  imbedded 
masses  of  Chalcedony,  and  calcareous  spar.  1  also 
picked  up,  during  the  short  period  we  remained,  a 
lump  of  the  argillaceous  oxyd  of  iron,  and  some  de- 
tached fragments  of  a  coarse  striped  jasper.  These 
discoveries  created  a  strong  desire  to  make  a  geolo- 
gical survey  of  the  island,  but  we  were  prevented 
from  attempting  it,  by  the  necessity  of  an  expeditious 
progress  across  the  bay  while  the  weather  favoured. 
On  reaching  the  river  aux  Sables,  we  found  a  number 
of  Chippeway  Indians  upon  the  shore,  and  a  perma- 
nent village  at  the  distance  of  tuo  miles  above  its  dis- 
charge. They  appeared  friendly,  and  as  soon  as 
our  tents  were  pitched  came  formally  to  the  Govern- 
or's marque.  A  chief  of  the  Chippeways  then  ad- 
dressed the  Governor  in  a  speech  in  which  he  told 
him  that  he  was  glad  to  see  him  there — that  he  had 
heard  of  his  coming — and  hoped  he  would  see,  and 
relieve  their  wants,  &c.  The  pipe  of  peace  was  then 
smoked  in  the  usual  style  of  Indian  ceremony,  by 
handing  it  to  all  present,  each  one  taking  a  whiff, 
which  is  all  that  is  required :  when  this  ceremony 
was  ended,  they  commenced  that  of  shaking  hands,* 

*  The  practice  of  shaking  hands  we  afterwards  found  universal 
among  the  northwestern  tribes,  but  were  unable  to  ascertain 
whether  it  is  an  ancient  custom,  or  has  been  introduced  by  their 
intercourse  with  Europeans.  To  ascertain  that  a  custom  so  an- 
cient and  so  universal  in  the  Old  World,  and  which  is  one  of  the 
most  striking  characteristics  of  civilized  nations,  was  also  preva- 
lent among  the  aborigines  of  America,  at  the  period  of  its  discov- 


100 

beginning  with  the  Governor,  and  passing  round  in  a 
circle  to  each  individual  composing  his  suite.  They 
afterwards  presented  some  fresh  sturgeon  (accipcnser) 
which  are  caught  in  abundance  in  that  river,  and  re- 
ceived in  return  some  tobacco  and  whiskey,  and  then 
departed  to  their  villages.  We  were  anxious  to  wit- 
ness how  our  Indians,  on  first  landing,  would  conduct 
themselves  towards  those  of  the  river  aux  Sables, 
and  whether  they  would  demonstrate  any  feeling  of 
joy  or  satisfaction  upon  the  interview,  and  were  some- 
what disappointed  to  see  a  total  indifference,  or  re- 
serve, maintained.  They  appeared  neither  to  see, 
or  know  each  other,  nor  could  we  learn  that  any  fa- 
miliarity ensued  between  them  during  our  stay  at 
that  place.  Nothing  appeared  to  give  them  so  much 
satisfaction  as  the  whiskey  they  received,  and  when 
it  was  drank  they  presented  a  request  for  more.  We 
have  since  observed,  that  the  passion  for  drinking 
spirits  is  as  common  to  the  tribes  of  this  region,  as  it 
is  to  the  remnants^of  the  Iroquois,  inhabiting  the  wes- 
tern parts  of  New-York.  To  procure  it  they  will 
part  with  any  thing  at  their  disposal,  and  if  they 
have  no  furs  or  dried  venison  to  exchange,  they  will 
sell  their  silver  ornaments,  their  guns,  and  even  parts 
of  their  dress.  They  generally  become  intoxicated 
whenever  an  opportunity  is  presented,  and  a  trader 
or  traveller  can  present  nothing  which  is  of  half  so 
much  value  in  their  estimation.     We  have  generally 

ery,  would  establish  a  coincidence  of  the  most  important  nature. 
But  the  period  for  making:  this  observation  has  long  gone  by. — 
There  are  probably,  no  tribes  now  in  America,  who  have  not 
some  knowledge  of  Europeans,  or  their  American  descendants. 


101 

found  it  the  first,  and  the  Inst  thing  enquired  for.  It 
appears  this  habit  was  contracted  at  an  early  period 
by  the  lake  Indians,  and  the  anecdote*  that  Charle- 
voix relates  of  an  intoxicated  Indian,  is  a  proof  that 
it  was  common  in  his  time.  It  is  due,  however,  to  the 
tribes  of  Lake  Superior,  and  die  heads  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, to  say,  that  we  tound  them  far  less  eager  for 
whiskey  than  the  more  contiguous  tribes,  and  that 
cases  were  presented,  in  which  it  was  not  relished. 

XI.  Day. — {June  3c?.) — The  distance  from  the  river 
aux  Sables  to  Thunder  Bay,*  is  forty  miles,  reck  n~ 
ingto  the  island, — thence  to  Flat  Rock  Point,  called 
by  heChippeways,  Sho-she-ko-naw-be-ko-king.  eight 
miles.  These  form  the  extreme  points  of  our  jour- 
ney during  this  day.  After  leaving  the  aux  Sables 
five  or  six  miles,  a  ridge  of  highland  appears  visible 
from  the  lake,  at  some  distance  back,  and  continues 
in  a  general  direction  north  northwest,  which  is  that 
of  the  lake  coast,  to  Thunder  Pay,  and  then  bears  fur- 
ther west,  and  becomes  invisible.  In  crossing  Thun- 
der Bay,  we  halted  at  an  island  which  lies  in  the 
track  of  the  usual  traverse,  for  a  short  time,  and 
while  there,  observed  a  kind  of  Indian  altar  erected 
beneath  a  tree  near  the  water's  edge.    This  consists 

*"  An  Ottawa}7}  called  John  Le  Blanc,  who  was  a  bad  chris- 
tian and  a  great  drunkard,  on  bein^;  asked  by  the  Count  De  Fron- 
tenac,  what  he  thought  the  brandy  of  which  he  was  so  fond,  was 
made  of,  he  said  of  tongues  and  heart?,  for,  added  he,  after  I  have 
drank  of  it  I  fear  nothing,  and  I  talk  like  an  angel." — Charlevoix's 
Journal,  vol.  IF.  p.  83. 

*  VAn.se,  du  Twiner e,  of  the  old  French  writers. 


102 

of  a  block  of  quartzy  granite,  worn,  apparently  by 
the  water,  into  a  columnar  shape,  terminated  by  a 
kind  of  cornice,  and  on  account  of  its  remarkable 
shape  and  appearance,  had  probably  been  carried 
from  the  water's  edge  and  set  up  at  that  spot.  It  is 
probable  also  that  this  column  of  granite  is  dedicated 
to  one  of  their  numerous  local  gods  or  manitoes, 
and  that  he  is  supplicated  for  prosperous  voyages 
across  the  Bay. 

What  has  been  so  often  reiterated,  as  to  the  high- 
ly electrified  state  of  the  atmosphere  at  this  Bay, 
seems  to  have  no  foundation  in  truth.     There  is  no- 
thing in  the  appearance  of  the  surrounding  country, — 
in  the  proximity  of  mountains, — or  the  currents  of 
the  atmosphere,  to  justify  a  belief  that  the  air  con- 
tains a  surcharge  of  the  electric  fluid.     In  no  place 
does  the  coast  attain  a  sufficient  altitude  to  allow  us 
to  suppose  that  it  can  exert  any  sensible  influence 
upon  the  clouds,  nor  is  it  known  that  any  mineral 
exhalations  are  given  out  in  this  vicinity,  as  has  been 
suggested,  capable  of  conducing  towards  a  state  of 
electrical  irritability  in  the  atmosphere.     From  the 
northwest  cape  of  Saganaw  Bay.  to  the  vicinity  of 
Flat-Rock-Point,  we  find  the  shore  of  the  lake  an 
alluvial  bank,   edged  with  a  beach  of  sand,  with 
masses  of  primary  and  floetzose  rocks,  sparingly  scat- 
tered along  the  shore,  or  projecting  above  the  wa- 
ter.    In  no  instance  do  the  rock  strata  jut  out  along 
the  shore,   until  we  reach  Thunder  Bay,  and  here 
they  are  not  elevated  more  than  two  or  three  feet 
above    the  level  of  the  water,   but  generally   very 
much  shattered  by  the  violence  of  the  storms,  so  as 
rather  to  present  a  bed  of  rubbish,  than  a  ledge  of 
rock.     This  rock,  where  it  can  be  examined,  is  a 


103 

compact  limestone,  abounding  in  petrified  remains, 
and  is  seen,  although  the  stratum  is  occasionally  inter- 
rupted, from  Thunder  Bay  to! ^hoshe-Konawbekokiug^ 
the  site  of  our  present  encampment,  where  the  num- 
ber and  variety  of  reliquse,  the  perfect  state  of  pe- 
trifaction they  present,  and  the  facility  with  which 
they  are  disengaged  from  the  rock,  are  very  surpris- 
ing.* 

XII.  Day. — (June  4/^.)We  embarked  at  six  o'clock, 
but  after  proceeding  about  a  league  were  driven 
ashore  by  a  thunder  storm,  which  suddenly  arose, 
attended  with  a  violent  wind  and  rain.  In  the  course 
of  a  few  hours  the  storm  abated,  and  we  again  took 
the  lake,  but  a  renewal  of  the  storm,  on  going  seven 
or  eight  miles,  again  compelled  us  to  the  shore, 
where  we  were  detained  during  the  remainder  of 
the  day.  A  noted  island  of  Lake  Huron,  called 
The  .Middle  Island,  now  bears  from  our  encampment 
due  north,  and  is  distant  six  or  eight  miles  from  the 
shore.     This  island  affords  a  shelter  to  vessels  en- 

*  A mong;  these  relics,  we  find  various  species  of  concholites,  eris- 
matolitesj  and  helmintholites.  We  particularly  recognize  the  cornu- 
madreporite,  the  conite,  and  the  cellepnrite;  and  the  ivrnu-ammon- 
itt .  which  has  so  often  been  mistaken  for  the  petrified  snake,  is 
found  abundantly  along:  this  part  of  the  coast.  Many  of  these 
relics  have  already  been  noticed  in  the  floetz  rocks  of  the  United 
States,  particularly  by  Dr  Drake,  in  the  valley  of  the  Ohio,  by  Mr. 
Eaton,  in  the  valley  «<f  the  Hudson,  and  by  J  G.  Bogert,  Esq. 
along;  the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Ontario,  and  it  is  believed  an 
increased  attention  to  the  subject,  is  all  that  is  required  to  r-  uder 
our  Fossil  Zoology,  as  rich  as  that  of  any  other  country  Geolo- 
gists have  yet  to  learn,  however,  that  the  jle&hy  part  of  snakes  or 
other  amphibious  animals,  has  ever  been  discovered  in  a  slate  of 
petrifaction  J 


104 

gag?d  in  the  lake  trade,  and  is  occasionally  resorted 
to  by  canoe-travellers. 

XIII.  Day. — (June  5th.)  The  wind  still  conti- 
nuing ahead,  it  was  concluded  to  send  the  canoes 
along  the  shore,  with  the  soldiers  and  voyageurs, 
while  the  remainder  of  the  party  proceeded  on  foot. 
At  ten  o'clock  we  reached  Presque  Isle,  and  carried 
our  canoes  and  baggage  across  the  pottage,  which 
is  about  two  hundred  yards,  over  a  low  sandy  neck 
of  land,  connecting  the  peninsula  with  the  main 
shore.  By  this  portage,  we  save  a  voyage  of  six  or 
eight  miles  around  a  point  of  land  which  projects,  at 
this  place,  into  the  lake.  On  reaching  the  head  of 
the  portage,  we  found  that  the  wind  had  increased 
to  such  a  degree  as  to  render  it  impossible  to  pro- 
ceed, and  we  encamped  upon  the  sand.  Here  our 
Indians  brought  in  a  brown  rabbit,*  a  species  of  wa- 
ter turtle,  and  some  pigeons ;  being  the  only  success 
met  with  in  hunting  since  leaving  Detroit,  with  the 
exception  of  a  partridge,  (a  species  of  grouse,)  killed 
a  few  days  previous.  It  is  not  to  be  inferred,  how- 
ever, that  the  country  is  destitute  of  game,  or  the  sa- 
vages lack  skill  in  hunting  it,  but  the  plentiful  sup- 
ply of  provisions  which  they  have  derived  from  the 

*  This  is  presumed  to  be  a  variety  of  the  American  Hare,  of 
zoologists,  and  may  be  distinguished  by  the  following  characters  : 
Body  about  eighteen  inches  long,— colour  of  the  hair  greyish- 
brown  on  the  back, — jrreyi*h-white  beneath  — neck  and  body 
rusty  and  cinereous, — legs  pale  rust  colour, — tail  short*  brown 
above,  white  beneath — hind  legs  longest,  and  callous  a  short  dis- 
tance from  the  paws  up. — ears  tipped  with  black, — covering  of 
the  body,  rusty  fur,  beneath  long  coarse  hair, — probable  weight 
six  pounds. 


105 

home-stock  of  the  expedition,  takes  away  much  of 
the  usual  incitements  to  hunting,  while  either  the  ra- 
pidity of  our  movements,  or  the  momentary  expecta- 
tion of  re-embarking,  while  detained  by  head  winds, 
has  prevented  them  from  straying  any  considerable 
distance  from  camp.  In  these  short  excursions,  they 
have  frequently  observed  the  tracks  of  the  deer,  and 
black  bear,  too  of  the  largest  animals  now  remaining 
in  the  forests  along  Lake  Huron.  Circumstances 
have  been  equally  unpropitious  in  their  attempts  up- 
on the  ducks,  and  other  aquatic  birds,  which  have 
occasionally,  although  not  in  large  flocks,  been  seen 
along  the  shores ;  for  the  noise  occasioned  by  our 
paddles  has  served  to  alarm  them  long  before  we 
could  approach  within  shooting  distance. 

At  five  o'clock  in  the  evening  the  wind  abated,  and 
we  left  Presque  Isle  with  the  design  of  continuing 
in  our  canoes  ail  night,  but  at  eleven  o'clock  the 
wind  had  freshened  to  such  a  degree,  and  the  night 
become  so  dark,  (hat  we  were  compelled  to  encamp, 
after  having  gone  about  twenty  miles. 

XIV.  Day. — {June  6th.) — From  the  place  of  our  en- 
campment on  the  5th,  to  the  island  of  Michilimack- 
inac,  is  computed  at  fifty-two  miles.  Our  ardent  de- 
sire of  reaching  that  place,  and  the  spirit  manifested 
among  the  voyageurs,  on  seeing  themselves  within  a 
day's  journey  of  it,  produced  a  very  early  embarka- 
tion, and  notwithstanding  a  moderate  head  wind,  we 
advanced  against  the  current  at  the  rate  of  five  miles 
per  hour,  and  entered  the  harbour  of  the  northwest- 
ern metropolis  at  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  The 
intermediate  shore  of  Lake  Huron,  presents  no 
change  of  character  worthy  of  remark ;  the  same 

14 


105 

kind  of  soil,  the  same  trees,  the  same  rock  strata  and 
pebbly  shore,  and  the  same  unvaried  expanse  of  wa- 
ter towards  the  north,  serve  to  imprint  a  character 
of  uniformity  upon  the  scene.  Among  the  forest 
trees,  pine,  hemlock,  and  spruce  predominate,  mixed 
with  some  maple,  oak,  birch,  and  poplar.  No  bluffs 
appear  along  the  shore,  but  the  rock,  where  appa- 
rent, is  a  compact  limestone  with  organic  remains. 
Fragments  of  hornblende,  granite,  breccia,  and  trap, 
all  very  much  water  worn,  and  not  in  place,  continue 
along  the  shore.  On  approaching  within  four  leagues 
of  Michilimackinac,  we  perceive  ourselves  opposite 
the  foot  of  the  island  of  l-ois  Blanc,  which  is  about 
ten  miles  in  length,  and  takes  its  name  from  the  Lirio- 
dendron  tulipifera  by  which  it  is  in  a  great  part  cov- 
ered. It  is  here  necessary  to  cross  over  a  channel 
of  three  or  four  miles  in  width  to  the  island,  and  to 
pass  up  around  its  southern  margin  to  its  northwest- 
ern extremity.  We  accomplished  this  part  of  the 
voyage  with  great  labour,  and  at  some  hazard  ;  the 
lake  being  so  much  agitated  as  frequently  to  throw 
the  waves  into  our  canoes.  In  passing  around  the 
southwestern  curve  of  the  island  of  Bois  Blanc,  we 
leave  the  site  of  old  Michilimackinac,  and  the  en- 
trance into  lake  Michigan,  on  our  left,  and  it  is  here 
that  the  island  of  Michilimackinac  first  bursts  upon 
the  view.  JNothing  can  present  a  more  picturesque 
or  refreshing  spectacle  to  the  traveller,  wearied  with 
the  lifeless  monotony  of  a  canoe  voyage  through 
Lake  Huron,  than  the  first  sight  of  the  island  of  Mi- 
chilimackinac,  which  rises  from  the  watery  horizon 
in  lofty  bluifs  imprinting  a  rugged  outline  along  the 
sky,  and  capped  with  two  fortresses  on  which  the 
American  standard  is  seen  conspicuously  displayed. 


107      ' 

A  compact  town   stretches   along  the  narrow  plain 
below    the   hills,    and    a    beautiful    harbour  chec- 
quered  with  American  vessels  at  anchor,  and  Indian 
canoes  rapidly   shooting   across  the  water  in  every 
direction.      There  is  no  previous  elevation  of  coast 
to  prepare  us  for  encountering  the  view  of  an  island 
elevated  more  than  three  hundred  feet  above  the  wa- 
ter, and  towering  ink    broken  peaks  which   would 
even  present  attractions  to  the  eye  of  the  solitarv  tra- 
veller, among  the  romantic  and  sublime  scenes  of  the 
wilderness  of  Arkansaw.  Independent  of  its  imposing 
features,  and  its  pleasing  novelty,  we  feel  an  inexpres- 
sible degree  of  delight,  after  traversing  an  Indian  wil- 
derness of  nearly  four  hundred  miles  in  extent,  to  find 
ourselves  once  more  approaching  the  seat  of  a  civil- 
ized population,  with  all  its  concomitant  blessings.  It 
can  only  be  known  to  those  who  have  traversed  sa- 
vage regions — who  have  subsisted  long  without  the 
most  common  conveniencies  of  life — with  what  feel- 
ings the  traveller  approaches  scenes,  where,  even 
for  a  few  days,  he  is  to  renew  former  modes  of  living, 
and  to  partake  of  the  advantages  of  a  refined  socie- 
ty.    At  an  intermediate  distance  between  Bois  Blanc 
and   Michilimackinac,    lies   Round    Island,   a   well 
timbered  islet,  that  serves  to  land-lock  the  harbour 
of  Michilimackinac,  which  we  immediately  entered, 
on  clearing  the  northern  cape  of  this  island,  and  en- 
camped on  the  narrow  plain  below   the  fort,  and  in 
the  immediate  vicinity  of  the  town.     The  expedition 
was  received  with  a  national  salute  from  the  garri- 
son, and  we  landed    amid   the   congratulations  of  a 
number  of  the  citizens  who  had  assembled  on  our  ar- 
rival.    Thus  terminates  the  first  part  of  our  journey, 
after  a  tedious  voyage  oi  fourteen  days,  in  which  we 


108 


have  encountered  an  almost  continual  head  wind, 
with  showers  of  rain,  and  very  little  weather  that 
can  be  considered  as  warm  for  the  season,  the  high- 
est point  at  which  the  thermometer  has  been  observ- 
ed being  70°,  and  the  mean  daily  temperature  51°.* 
We  have  also  found  the  natural  history  of  the  coun- 
try, less  interesting  in  the  main,  than  was  expected  ; 
and  the  scenery  has  not  been  sufficiently  diversified 
to  keep  up  a  general  interest.  Particular  scenes 
have  attracted  admiration,  but  it  has  arisen  wholly 
from  the  mildness  and  beauty  of  their  outlines,  and 
the  pleasing  effect  of  the  water ;  and  not  from  any 
features  of  boldness  or  sublimity.  The  islands 
along  the  shore,  have  served  to  give  relief  to  the 
eye,  when  often  there  was  nothing  else  to  excite  an 
interest.  The  quadrupeds,  the  birds,  and  the  plants, 
would  furnish  very  interesting  objects  to  the  land 
traveller,  but  can  only  be  glanced  at  by  the  hasty 
voyageur.  The  chalcedony  of  Shawangunk,  and 
the  staurotide  procured  near  Elm  creek,  are  the 
principal  substances  that  reward  a  mineralogical 
search  of  the  shores.  It  is  the  geology  of  the  region 
only  that  sustains  a  general  interest,  and  promises  a 
rich  reward,  and  we  have  been  enabled  to  make 


*  Meteorological  Observations  on  Lake  Huron. 

Date. 

Air. 

Water. 

Mean 

MeanPrcvail- 
temp.'     injr 

L.  Huron 
1820. 

May  28th. 

"  "     29th~ 
"    30th] 
"      31~sf. 

A.M.       |       P.  M. 

A.  M.       1      P  M. 

<>fwat 

56 
59 

6 

8,10  12     2|  4 

54  ~|«;~| 

44'            |70 

6    8 
~  41 

6 

,55 

1 

- 

I0.I21    2 

~  sir 

4;  61   8 

—  -    I  - 
154, 

-IT 

1  Weather. 
n"w. ':cio~.  ~ 

53       '54 

■ 
- 

60[  , 
52| 

: 

63| 

44 
~  !46 

49  ~" 

»s 

N  W. 

3j7w 

Thunder. 

|41       IS»| 

48 

48 

Clear. 

I     |«4  Ml 
46  57J      |6l|~ 

51 

53 

June  1st. 
»     2-1." 
•     3d. 
"    4th7 

'*•      5tll 

"    6ih7 

54142 

45 
47 

_ 50~ 

so 
52 

■u 

|55, 

!sbj~  1 

— 
52 

J 

56| 
~\~ 

=1- 

52 

nisi    n«rj«j 

5tJ             49:       45       j 
49 1      |57l      i      |46|      |      |*0 

52 

_J9__ 
49 

50 

w. 

WNW 
WNW. 

Rain. 
Cloudy. 

ChJar7 

5)258      10)516 
51  o         ~51o 

109 

very  ample  collections  both  of  hand-specimens  of 
rock  strata,  and  of  imbedded  fossils.  The  soil  until 
reaching  the  head  of  St.  Clair  river,  is  an  alluvion, 
that  may  be  considered  equal  in  quality  with  the  val- 
ley of  the  Ohio  or  the  Mississippi,  but  from  thence 
to  Michilimackinac  partakes  too  much  of  the  sand  of 
the  shore,  and  is  in  many  places  swampy,  with  the 
exception  of  the  fine  region  about  Saganaw,  and  the 
extreme  point  of  the  peninsula  of  Michigan. 

The  distance  from  Detroit  to  Michilimackinac, 
is  computed  at  three  hundred  miles,  by  those  who 
perform  the  route  in  vessels  of  a  large  size,  but  is 
considerably  more,  as  will  appear  from  the  follow- 
ing table,  when  all  the  indentations  of  the  shore  are 
followed. 

OF  THE  STATIONARY  DISTANCES  BETWEEN  DETROIT  AND 
THE  ISLAND  OF  MICHILIMACKINAC 

To  the  upper  end  of  P^ach  Island,  and  en- 
trance into  Lake  St.  Clair.      - 
Grosse  Point.  - 

Mouth  of  Huron  River,  of  Lake  St.  Clair, 
Mouth  of  St.  Clair  River,  - 

Belle  Riviere,  at  St.  Clair  settlement, 
Bla  k  River,  - 

Fort  Gratiot,  "."'.""" 

White  Rock,  - 

Elm  Creek         ------ 

Black  River, 

Point  Aux  Barques,  - 

Point  Aux  Chenes,  on  Saganaw  Bay, 

Shawangunk  Island,  -        -        -         - 

River  Aux  Sahles,     -         -         -        -         - 

Thunder  Bay  Island,  - 

Flat  Rock  Point,  near  Middle  Island, 

Ppjsque  Isle  - 

Lower  end  of  the  Island  of  Bois  Blanc, 

Michilimackinac)      ----- 


Vliles. 

Total  Miles. 

6 

3 

9 

15 

24 

8 

32 

IS 

60 

9 

69 

2 

71 

55 

126 

10 

136 

12 

148 

12 

160 

18 

178 

11 

189 

30 

210 

40 

250 

18 

268 

20 

288 

60 

348 

12 

360 

CHAPTER  III. 

SIX  DATS  RESIDENCE  AT  MICHILIMACKINAC,  INCLUDING 
A  VISIT  TO  THE  ST.  MARTINS  ISLANDS. 

XV.  Day.— {June  1th.) 

X  HE  island  of  Michilimackinac  is  nine  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  covers  an  area  of  about  seven 
thousand  six  hundred  and  eighty  acres.  Its  extreme 
elevation  above  the  lake  is  three  hundred  and 
twelve  feet,  according  to  the  observations  of  the 
garrison,  and  nine  hundred  feet  above  the  Atlantic 
ocean,  which  is  something  more  than  half  the  height 
of  the  Highlands  of  the   Hudson.*     Although   its 

*  The  altitude  of  the  following  points  has  been  ascertained  by 

admeasurement  : 

HIGHLANDS  OF  NEW-YORK. 

West-Point,  above  the  Hudson  188  feet 

Fort  Putnam,  598 

Bare  Mountain,  •  1350 

Crow's  Nest,  1418 

Butter-Hill,  1529 

New-Beacon,  (east  side)  1582 

The  highest  peak  of  the  Catskill  mountain,  as  calcu- 
lated by  Capt.  Partridge,  3S04 

Highest  peak  of  the  Alleghanies,  in  Pennsylvania,  1300 

Ackerly's  Essay  on  the  Geology  of  the  Hudson. 


Ill 

bluffs  present  the  appearance  of  sterility,  they  are 
covered  with  a  strong  soil,  which  is  continually  re- 
novated by  the  spontaneous  decomposition  of  calca- 
reous rock,  and  the  island  has  been  long,  and  we  are 
led  to  believe,  very  justly,  celebrated  for  the  salu- 
brity of  its  atmosphere.  It  contains  three  objects 
of  natural  curiosity  which  are  generally  visited  by 
strangers,  The  Giant's  Arch, — The  Natural  Pyramid, 
or,  sugar  loaf  rock,  and  I  he  Scull  Rock.  The  for- 
mer is  a  natural  arch  projecting  from  the  precipice 
on  the  northeastern  side  of  the  island,  about  a  mile 
from  the  town,  and  elevated  one  hundred  and  forty 
feet  above  the  level  of  the  water.  Its  abutments  are 
the  calcareous  rock  common  to  the  island,  and  have 
been  created  by  the  falling  down  oi  enormous  mass- 
es of  the  rock,  leaving  a  chasm  of  eighty  or  ninety 
feet  in  height  and  crowned  with  an  arch  of  fifty  or 
sixty  feet  sweep,  having  the  usual  curve  of  factitious 
arches.  The  best  view  is  from  the  beach,  at  the 
■water's  edge.  On  viewing  it  from  above,  you  are 
obliged  to  approach  within  ten  or  twelve  feet  of 
the  chasm  by  which  it  is  produced,  before  it  can 
be  distinctly  seen,  so  that  the  effect  of  perspective 
is  lost.  i  he  natural  pyramid  is  a  lone  standing 
rock,  upon  the  top  of  the  bluff,  of  probably  thirty 
feet  in  width,  at  the  base,  by  eighty  or  ninety  in 
height,  of  a  rugged  appearance,  and  supporting,  in  its 
crevices,  a  few  stunted  cedars.  It  pleases  chiefly  by 
its  novelty,  so  wholly  unlike  any  thing  to  be  found 
in  other  parts  of  the  world,  and  on  first  approaching 
it,  gives  the  idea  of  a  work  of  art.  Its  appearance 
is  readily  explained  by  perceiving  it  to  be  a  calca- 
reous carbonat  of  the  same  character  as  that  upon 
which  it  is  based,  and  retaining  its  original  geologi- 


112 

cal  situation,  and  by  supposing  it  to  be  the  relic  of  a 
st-  atum  which  formerly  extended  to  that  depth  over 
the  whole  island.  There  is  every  appearance  to 
justify  the  conclusion,  that  such  a  decay  and  removal 
of  rock  matter  has  taken  place. 

The  Scull  Rock  is  ehiefly  noted  for  a  cavern  which 
appears  to  have  been  an  ancient  receptacle  of  hu- 
man bones,  many  of  which  are  still  to  be  observed 
about  its  mouth.  The  entrance  is  low  and  narrow, 
and  seems  to  promise  little  to  reward  the  labours  of 
exploration.  It  is  here  that  Alexander  Henry  was 
secreted  by  a  friendly  Indian,  after  the  horrid  mas- 
sacre of  the  British  garrison,  at  Old  Michilimackinac, 
in  176*.* 

The  present  town  of  Michilimackinac  is  pleasantly 
situated  around  a  small  bay,  on  the  southern  ex- 
tremity of  the  island,  and  consists  altogether  of  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  houses,  several  of  which  are 
handsomely  painted,  its  permanent  population  does 
not  differ  far  from  tour  hundred  and  fifty,  but  is  some- 
times swelled  by  the  influx  of  traders,  voyageurs  and 
Indians,  to  one  or  two  thousand.  The  harbour  is 
safe  in  all  winds,  and  sufficiently  large  to  accommo- 
date a  hundred  and  fifty  vessels.  Fort  Michilimac- 
kinac stands  on  a  rocky  eminence,  immediately 
above  the  town,  and  is  at  present  gnrrisoned  by  a 
company  of  infantry,  under  the  command  of  Capt* 
Peirce.  Fort  Holmes  occupies  the  apex  of  the 
island,  and  is  not  at  present  garrisoned.  This  for- 
tress was  erected  by  the  British  while  they  held 
possession  of  the  island,  during  the  late  war,  and  by 
them  named  Fort  George.    But  after  the  surrender  of 

*  See  Henri's  Travels  and  Adventure?,  p.  119. 


113 

the  island,  the  name  was  altered  in  compliment  to 
the  memory  of  Major  Holmes,  who  fell  in  the  un- 
fortunate attack  upon  the  island,  by  Col.  Croghan. 
The  town  of  Michilimackinac  is  now  the  seat  of  jus- 
tice for  a  county  of  the  same  name,  which  has  re- 
cently been  erected  in  this  part  of  the  Michigan 
Territory.  According  to  the  observation  of  Lieut. 
Evileth,  it  lies  in  north  latitude  45°  54' — which  is 
only  23'  north  of  Montreal,  as  stated  by  Professor 
Silliman.*  It  is  in  west  longitude  from  Washington 
city,  7°  10'. 

XVI.  Day. — (June  8th.)  In  consequence  of  a  re- 
ported discovery  of  gypsum  upon  the  St.  Martin's 
islands,  which  belong  to  the  Michilimackinac  clus- 
ter, 1  was  directed  by  Gov.  Cass  to  make  a  mi- 
neralogical  survey  of  those  islands,  and  to  report 
upon  the  quantity  and  the  quality  of  the  gypsum 
found.  To  convey  me  thither  an  arrangement  had 
been  made  with  Capt.  Knapp,  commanding  the  Unit- 
ed States  revenue  cutter  on  this  station,  and  accom- 
panied by  Capt.  Douglass,  of  the  expedition,  and 
Lieut.  Pierce,  of  the  army,  I  went  on  board  the 
cutter  this  morning,  at  ten  o'clock.  We  were  fa- 
voured with  a  wind,  and  alter  accomplishing  the  ob- 
ject of  the  voyage,  returned  to  the  harbour  of  Mi- 
chilimackinac before  dark.  The  St.  Martin's  isl- 
ands lie  about  ten  miles  northeast  of  Michilimacki- 
nac. The  largest  is  about  nine  miles  in  circumfer- 
ence, by  three  broad  at  the  widest  part,  and  consists 
of  alluvial  soil,  covered  partly  with  a  forest  of  oak, 
maple,  and  poplar.     In  no  place  does  it  attain  an 

*  Lat.  of  Montreal,  45»  81'.    SUliman's  Tour  from  Hartford  t» 
Quebec,  p.  S4J. 

*5 


114 

elevation  of  more  than  twenty  feet  above  the  level 
of  the  lake,  and  it  is  subject  to  a  partial  inundation 
in  the  spring,  when  the  sudden  melting  of  the  north- 
ern snows  produces  a  rise  of  water  in  the  lake.  Im- 
bedded in  this  soil,  which  appears  naturally  fertile, 
we  found  large  detached  masses  of  gypsum,  of  a  very 
fine  quality,  and  unconnected  with  any  adhering 
rock,  so  that  no  expense  of  blasting  is  necessary. 
The  principal  body  of  this  mineral  noticed,  consists 
of  the  graiiularly  foliated  sulphate  of  lime  of  mineral- 
ogy, mixed  with  scattered  masses  of  the  fibrous  kind, 
very  white  and  beautiful.  A  great  variety  in  the 
colour,  and  its  varying  degrees  of  intensity  is  found, 
among  which  white,  red,  and  dark  chesnut  brown 
predominate.  Altogether  the  specimens  bear  a  great- 
er resemblance  to  the  Nova  Scotia  gypsum,  of  which 
such  quantities  are  annually  imported  into  the  Unit- 
ed States,  than  any  of  the  numerous  beds  hitherto 
discovered  in  New-York,  and  other  sections  of  the 
Union.  And,  if  an  opinion  may  be  drawn  from  ex- 
ternal characters,  we  may  venture  to  consider  the 
St.  Martin's,  or,  as  it  is  already  called,  the  ''Mackinac 
gypsiim,  of  a  superior  quality  for  agricultural  pur- 
poses. As  to  the  quantity  in  which  it  exists,  nothing 
can  be  decisively  stated,  as  the  earth  has  not  been 
much  explored  ;  but  from  the  abundance  which  is 
scattered  over  the  surface  of  the  ground,  and  from 
other  geological  appearances,  it  is  probable  that  the 
quantity  will  prove  exhaustless. 

XVII.  Day.— (June  9th.)  The  island  of  Michili- 
mackinac,  and  the  adjacent  coasts,  have  been  the 
theatre  of  some  of  the  most  interesting  events  in  the 
history  of  the  settlement  of  the  northwestern  regions 


115 

of  our  continent.  In  adverting  to  them,  I  shall 
apply  the  term  modem  to  the  present  town  of  Michi- 
limackinac,  in  order  to  distinguish  it  from  the  an- 
cient town,  which  was  situated  on  the  extreme  point 
of  the  Peninsula  of  Michigan,  about  three  leagues 
distant  from  the  island.  It  appears  from  Herriot,* 
that  the  settlement  of  the  old  town,  is  due  to  the  ex- 
ertions of  Father  Marquette,  a  French  missionary, 
who  came  here  in  1671,  with  a  party  of  Hurons, 
whom  he  prevailed  on  to  locate  themselves  at  that 
spot,  where  a  fort  was  constructed,  and  it  afterwards 
became  an  important  post.  This  was  eight  years 
before  La  Salle's  expedition  through  the  lakes,  and 
was  the  first  point  of  European  settlement  made 
northwest  of  fort  Frontenac,  or  Cadaracqui,  on  Lake 
Ontario.f 

M.  Tonti,  Hennepin,  Charlevoix  and  other  ancient 
French  writers,  when  they  speak  of  Michilimacki- 
nac,  allude  to  the  old  peninsular  fort.  It  continued 
to  be  the  seat  of  the  fur  trade,  and  the  undisturbed, 
rendezvous  of  the  Indian  tribes  during  the  whole  pe- 
riod that  the  crown  of  France  exercised  jurisdiction 
over  the  Canadas.  After  the  fall  of  Quebec  in  1  759, 
it  passed  by  treaty  into  the  possession  oi  the  British 
government,  but  much  against  the  wishes  of  the  In- 
dian tribes,  who  from  long  habits  of  intercourse  with 
the  French,  entertained  an  attachment  and  a  par- 
tiality which  it  was  not  easy  to  counteract.  Such 
was  the  spirit  of  animosity  entertained  by  the  Indians, 

*  See  Herriot's  Travels  through  the  Canadas,  p.  196. 

f  Neither  Fort  Niagara,  or  Fort  Ponchartrain,  ('the  present  site 
of  Detroit,)  was  then  in  existence.  The  foundation  of  the  former 
was  laid  hy  La  Salle,  in  1678, — the  latter  had  not  heen  erected 
-vhen  La  Hcntan  passed  through  the  country,  in  1688. 


M6 

that  one  of  the  first  English  traders,  (Alexander 
Henry,)  who  ventured  to  visit  Michilimackinac, 
found  it  necessary  on  his  arrival  at  that  place  in 
1761,  to  conceal  the  circumstance  of  his  nativity,  and 
to  conduct  his  trade  under  the  name  of  a  French 
assistant  whom  he  had  employed.  When  the  de- 
ception was  a  few  days  afterwards  discovered,  his 
goods  were  only  saved  to  him,  by  the  fortunate  ar- 
rival of  a  British  garrison  of  300  men,  who  gave  pro- 
tection to  the  English  trade,  and  compelled  the  In- 
dians, for  a  time,  to  smother  the  flame  of  their  animo- 
sity. It  was  only,  however,  to  break  forth  with  re- 
doubled violence,  and  the  massacre  of  this  garrison, 
which  ensued  about  eighteen  months  afterwards, 
(1763)  while  it  exhibits  one  of  the  most  shocking  in- 
stances of  Indian  barbarity,  is  at  the  same  time,  a 
striking  proof  of  the  sagacity  and  dissimulation  of  the 
Indian  character.  It  appears  from  the  very  interest- 
ing account  which  is  given  of  this  transaction  by 
Henry,  who  was  an  eye  witness,  that  the  Indians  were 
in  the  habit  of  playing  at  a  game  called  bag-gat-iway, 
which  is  played  with  a  ball  and  bat,  on  the  principles 
of  our  foot-ball,  and  decided  by  one  of  the  party's 
heaving  the  ball  beyond  the  goal  of  their  adversa- 
ries. The  king's  birth  day,  the  4th  of  June,  having 
arrived,  the  Sacs  and  Chippe ways,  who  were  encamp- 
ed in  great  numbers  around  the  fort,  turned  out  up- 
on the  green,  to  play  at  this  game,  for  a  high  wa- 
ger, and  attracted  a  number  of  the  garrison  and  tra- 
ders to  witness  the  sport.  "The  game  of  baggat- 
iway,  is  necessarily  attended  with  much  violence 
and  noise.  In  the  ardour  of  contest,  the  ball,  as  has 
been  suggested,  if  it  cannot  be  thrown  to  the  goal 
desired,  is  struck  in  any  direction  by  which  it  cn?i 


i  17 

be  diverted  from  that  designed  by  the  adversary. 
At  such  a  moment,  therefore,  nothing  could  be  less 
liable  to  excite  premature  alarm,  than  that  the  ball 
should  be  tossed  over  the  pickets  of  the  fort,  nor  that 
having  fallen  there,  it  should  be  followed,  on  the  in- 
stant, by  all  engaged  in  the  game,  as  well  the  one  par- 
ty as  the  other,  all  eager, — all  struggling, — all  shout- 
ing, in  the  unrestrained  pursuit  of  a  rude  athletic 
exercise  ;  nothing,  therefore,  could  be  more  happily 
devised,  under  the  circumstances,  than  a  stratagem 
like  this  ;  and  it  was,  in  fact,  the  stratagem  which 
the  Indians  employed  to  obtain  possession  of  the 
fort,  and  by  which  they  were  enabled  to  slaughter 
and  subdue  its  garrison,  and  such  of  the  other  inhab- 
itants as  they  pleased.  To  be  still  more  certainPof 
success,  they  had  prevailed  upon  as  many  as  they 
could,  by  a  pretext  the  least  liable  to  suspicion,  to 
come  voluntarily  without  the  pickets ;  and  particu- 
larly the  commandant  and  garrison  themselves."* 

This  event  finally  sealed  the  fate  of  the  fort  and 
the  town,  after  having  been  the  seat  of  the  fur  trade 
for  ninety-two  years.  The  Indians,  after  butchering 
the  garrison,  burnt  down  the  fort,  and  the  English 
afterwards  took  possession  of,  and  fortified  the  isl- 
and of  Michilimackinac,  which  had  previously  giv- 
en name  to  the  fort  on  the  Peninsula.  No  event  of 
importance  appears  to  have  disturbed  the  tranquil- 
ity, or  retarded  the  growth  of  the  modern  town,  for  a 
long  period,  during  which  its  trade  and  size,  were 
both  considerably  increased.  During  the  American 
revolution  we  hear  nothing  of  it,  except  as  the  ren- 
dezvous of  hostile  tribes.  By  the  treaty  of  Paris,  of 
1783,  acknowledging  the  independence,  and  fixing 

*  Henry,  p.  85. 

\ 


118 

the  boundaries  of  Ihe  United  States,  it  fell  under  the 
jurisdiction  of  the  American  government,  and  was 
surrendered,  according  to  JYlcKenzie,  in  1794.  Du- 
ring the  late  war,  (1812 — 14)  the  fort  was  surprised 
by  a  body  of  British  troops,  and  maintained  until 
surrendered  by  the  treaty  of  Ghent  of  1814  In  the 
meantime  an  unsuccessful  assault  was  made  upon  it, 
by  Col.  Croghan,  who  had  distinguished  himself  in  so 
conspicuous  a  manner  in  the  defence  of  Fort  St.  Ste- 
phens, at  Lower  Sandusky.  This  assault  was  mark- 
ed by  the  death  of  the  gallant  Maj.  Holmes,  who  fell 
at  the  head  of  his  column  in  attempting  to  drive  the 
enemy  from  a  commanding  position. 

XVIII.  Day. — (June  10M.) — Few  persons  have  vis- 
ited this  Island  without  being  struck  with  the  variety 
and  the  delicacy  of  the  fish,  which  are  caught  in  the 
vicinity.  Among  them  we  see  two  species  of  trout, 
the  lake  herring,  black  and  white  bass,  sturgeon, 
mosquenonge,  white  fish  (Jicamang  of  the  Indians) 
pike,  gar,  perch,  and  catfish,  with  several  other  spe- 
cies of  cartilaginous,  and  shell  fish.  Of  these 
the  white  fish  is  most  esteemed  for  the  richness  and 
delicacy  of  its  flavour,  and  there  is  a  universal 
acquiescence  in  the  opinion  formerly  advanced  by 
Charlevoix,  "  that  whether  fresh  or  salted,  nothing 
of  the  fish  kind,  can  excel  it."  We  cannot,  however, 
agree  with  the  Baron  La  Hontan  in  the  remark  "  that 
it  has  one  singular  property,  namely,  that  all  sorts 
of  sauces  spoil  it.*'  This  fine  fish  is  very  abundant 
around  the  island,  and  is  taken  with  the  hook  and 
line.  It  has  not  heretofore  beer)  described  in  ichthy- 
ological  works,  but  Governor  Clinton  is  disposed  to 


119 

consider  it  a  non-descript  species  of  the  sahno  ge- 


# 


nus. 


XIX.  Day. — (June  1  ]  th  )— The  geological  charac- 
ter of  the  island  of  Michilimackinac,  presents  some 
features,  which  so  far  as  observations  have  enabled 
us  to  judge,  are  peculiar  to  it.  It  consists  of  a  stra- 
tum of  limestone  of  immense  thickness,  based  upon 
a  calcareous  rock,  in  which  the  semi-crystalline 
structure,  and  almost  entire  absence  of  fossil  remains, 
prove  its  intermediate  age  This  formation  is  not 
elevated  more  than  a  foot  above  the  level  of  the 
lake,  and  extends  horizontally  under  the  island.  It  is 
overlayed  by  the  rock  forming  the  bluffs  which  have 
so  commanding  an  appearance  on  the  approach  to 
the  island,  and  attaining  various  elevations  from  one 
hundred  to  three  hundred  feet.  Its  compact  struc- 
ture, and  imbedded  fossils  leave  no  doubt  as  to  its 
posterior  deposition,  but  what  strikes  us  as  peculiar 
in  this  formation  is  the  circumstance  of  its  being 
made  up  of  fragments  of  both  transition,  and  compact 
limestone,  with  cavities  of  carbonat  of  lime  in  the 
powdery  form,  (agaric  mineral)  together  with  small 
fragments  of  a  species  of  striped  flinty  agate,  and  in- 
numerable small  crystals  of  calcareous  spar,  thus  giv- 
ing it  a  breccioidal  appearance.  It  is  to  be  observed, 
however,  that  no  fragments  of  primitive  rock,  are 
found  in  its  composition,  and  that  the  calcareous 
fragments  are  acute-angled,  and  bear  no  marks  of 
attrition.  This  formation  is  handsomely  exposed 
at  the  bluff,   called    Robinson's  Folly,   not  quite   a 

*  Memoir  on  the  fishes  of  the  western  waters  of  the  state  of 
New-York,  appended  to  Mitchill's  Ichthyology.  1st  vol.  Trans- 
actions of  the  Literary  and  Philosophical  Society. 


120 

mile  east  of  the  town.  The  organic  relics  found  in 
it  are  generally  in  the  .state  of  chalcedony,  and  some- 
times covered  with  minute  crystals  of  quartz.  Of 
this  the  best  instance  is  afforded  at  Fort  Holmes, 
srhere  the  British  garrison  attempted  to  procure 
water  by  sinking  a  very  deep  shaft,  but  without  suc- 
cess. This  formation  has  not  been  traced  on  the  ad- 
joining shores.  We  shall  content  ourselves  with' 
the  bare  mention  of  these  facts,  without  attempting, 
in  this  place,  to  apply  them  to  existing  theories,  or 
received  classifications.  The  town  of  'Mackinac, 
stands  on  a  strip  of  alluvion  below  the  bluff,  consist- 
ing  of  small  smooth  water  worn  pebbles  of  calcareous 
rock,  covered  with  a  deposit  of  black  soil  about  one 
foot  in  depth.  On  the  west  side  of  the  island,  at  the  wa- 
ter's edge,  there  is  a  bed  of  light  blue  clay  which  is 
said  to  bum  white,  and  to  be  well  adapted  for  pipes, 
and  other  articles  of  pottery.  Among  the  detached 
minerals  of  the  island,  I  have  noticed  the  brown 
oxyd  of  iron,  and  radiated  quartz  upon  a  basis  of 
limestone,  together  with  fragments  of  the  flinty  agate 
of  the  'Mackinac  limestone,  which  has  just  been  men- 
tioned. Detached  blocks  of  granite  and  hornblende 
rock,  are  scattered  over  the  alluvial  soil  of  this  island 
These  are  the  leading  traits  of  its  mineralogy  and 
geology. 

XX.  Day. — 'June  12//*.)— Hitherto,  very  little  atten- 
tion has  been  paid  to  agriculture  on  the  island,  al- 
though the  soil  is  not  deficient  in  strength.  Garden 
vegetables  grow  in  great  perfection.  We  have  parti- 
cularly remarked  the  dry  and  mealy  quality  of  the 
potatoe,  and  have  no  where  observed  finer  beets 
and  cabbages.     The  little  depth  of  soil,  is,  however, 


121 

unfavourable  to  forest  trees,  and  there  is  a  scarcity 
of  fire  wood  and  building  timber  upon  the  island.  A 
supply  of  these  articles  is  procured  chiefly  from  the 
neighbouring  islands  of  Bois  Blanc  and  Round  Island. 
Stone  for  building,  and  for  quicklime,  is  abundant. 
There  are  a  number  of  sheep,  cattle,  and  horses  upon 
the  island,  all  of  which  thrive  well.  There  is  nei- 
ther school  or  preaching  upon  the  island.  The  town 
has  a  post-office,  a  small  jail,  and  a  council  house,  in 
which  the  courts  of  justice  are  held  There  is  no 
regular  bred  attorney,  although  two  persons,  occa- 
sionally practice.  The  only  physician  is  the  one 
attached  to  the  garrison.  There  appears  therefore 
in  the  present  society  of  'Mackinac  the  want  of  a 
preacher,  a  school-master,  an  attorney,  and  a  physi- 
cian,— of  merchants  there  are  always  too  many.  The 
etymology  of  the  word  Michilimackinac,  admits  of  a 
ready  explanation.  It  is  a  compound  of  the  word 
missi  or  mm?7,  signifying  "  great,"  and  mackinac  the 
Indian  word  for  "  turtle,"  from  a  fancied  resem- 
blance of  the  island  to  a  great  turtle  lying  upon  the 
water.  These  are  words  of  the  Chippeway  lan- 
guage. Herriot  derives  this  name,  but  without  much 
probability,  from  Imakinakos,  an  Indian  spirit  suppo- 
sed to  have  formerly  inhabited  the  island.  Since- 
our  arrival  here,  there  has  been  a  great  number  of 
Indians  of  the  Chippeway  and  Ottaway  tribes,  en- 
camped near  the  town.  The  beach  of  the  lake  has 
been  constantly  liued  with  Indian  hu!s  and  bark  ca- 
noes. The  savages  are  generally  well  dressed,  in 
their  own  costume,  and  exhibit  physiognomies  with 
more  regularity  of  features  and  beauty  of  expression, 
than  it  is  common  to  find  among  them.  This  is  pro- 
bably attributable  to  a  greater  intermixture  of  blood 

1G 


122 

in  this  vicinity.  These  savages  resort  to  the  island 
for  the  purpose  of  exchanging  their  furs,  for  blank- 
ets, knives,  and  other  articles.  Their  visits  are  pe- 
riodical, being  generally  made  after  their  spring  and 
fall  hunts,  and  their  stay  is  short.  Some  of  the  tribes 
also  bring  in  for  sale-  several  articles  of  Indian  man- 
utaclure,  particularly  a  kind  of  rush  mat  of  a  very 
handsome  fabric,  (see  Plate  2,  Fig.  13,)  bark  bas- 
kets filled  with  maple  sugar,  called  mokc-ocks,  (see 
Plate  2,  Fig.  3,)  with  quilled  mockasins,  (10  and  11,) 
shot  pouches  >'12,)  and  other  fancy  goods  ot  Indian 
fabric,  which  are  generally  in  demand  as  articles  of 
curiosity. 

During  our  detention  here,  vessels  have  been  con- 
stantly entering  or  leaving  the  harbour,  giving  the 
town  an  appearance  of  bustle  and  business,  which 
was  not  expected.  This  appearance  of  trade  has, 
perhaps,  recently  assumed  a  partial  activity,  by  the 
concentration  of  a  considerable  military  force  on 
this  frontier,  which  has  furnished  employment  to  a 
number  of  vessels  in  the  transportation  of  troops, 
military  stores,  and  provisions.  The  Indian  trade  is 
chiefly  conducted  by  the  American,  or  South  West 
Fur  Company,  under  the  direction  of  Messrs.  Stuart 
and  Crooks.  Indeed  the  ware  houses,  stores,  offi- 
ces, boat  yards  and  other  buildings  of  this  establish- 
ment, occupy  a  considerable  part  of  the  town  plat, 
and  the  company  furnishes  employment  to  a  great 
number  of  clerks,  engages,  and  mechanics,  and  con- 
tributes very  largely  to  the  general  business,  activi- 
ty, a  id  enterprise  ot  the  town.  The  trade  and  ope- 
rations of  this  company  are  confined  principally  to 
the  northwestern  territories  of  the  United  States. 
As  to  the  amount  of  capital  vested,  and  the  quantity 


123 

of  furs  annually  returned  into  their  ware  houses,  we 
have  no  means  of  accurate  information.  It  is  said 
to  be  less  profitable  now,  than  at  a  former  period. 
The  following  account  of  the  produce  of  the  fur 
trade  for  one  year,  given  by  McKenzie,  will  serve  to 
give  an  idea  of  its  former  extent : 

«  106,000  Beaver  skins,     "  6,000  Lynx  skins, 

2,100  Bearskins,  600  Wolverine  skins, 

1,500  Fox  skins,  1,650  Fisher  skins, 

4,000  Kitt  Fox  skins,  100  Raccoon  skins, 

4,600  Otter  skins,  3,800  Wolf  skins, 

16,000  Musquash  skins,       700  Elk  skins, 
*32,000  Martin  skins,  750  Deer  skins, 

1,800  Mink  skins,  1,200  Deer  do.  dressed, 

500  Buffaloe  Robes,  and  a  quantity  of  casto- 
rum." 

Whether  the  skins  of  these  animals  continue  to  form 
the  staple  articles  of  the  trade — whether  the  propor- 
tion of  skins  varies  greatly  in  different  years — and 
whether  there  is  an  increase  or  diminution  of  th  total 
amount,  are  the  secrets  of  a  business  of  which  we 
are  ignorant. 

The  weather  since  our  arrival  upon  the  island,  has 
been  cooler  and  more  variable,  we  are  informed, 
than  is  common  during  this  month.  Out  of  six  days, 
two  have  been  rainy  and  cloudy.  The  wind  has 
prevailed  from  the  S.  E.  The  highest  point  at 
which  the  thermometer  has  been  observed,  as  will 
be  seen  by  a  reference  to  the  following  meteorologi- 
cal register,  is  68°,  and  the  average  daily  heat  for  the 
week  55°,  which  is  eleven  degrees  lower  than  the  mean 


121 


temperature  of  June  at  Quebec,  according  to  the 
observations  of  the  late  Duke  of  Richmond.* 

During  the  afternoon  of  this  day  we  beheld  a  strik- 
ing instance  of  the  singular  manner  in  which  the  isl- 
and is  frequently  enveloped  in  a  fog,  which  is  so 
dense  as  to  obscure  objects  at  the  distance  of  two 
hundred  yards.  Being  at  the  moment  engaged,  in 
company  with  Lieutenant  Mackay,  in  sketching  a 
view  of  the  fort  and  town,  from  Round  Island,  we 
were  compelled  to  relinquish  our  designs  unfinished,, 
and  it  was  with  some  difficulty  we  reached  the  har- 
bour of 'Mackinac.  These  fogs  are  common  upon 
the  lakes  during  the  summer  season.  They  rise 
suddenly,  without  any  previous  indications  of  a  hazy 
atmosphere. — move  with  great  velocity,  and  some- 
times prove  disastrous  to  canoe-traveliers,  and 
voyageurs. 

*  Silliman's  Tour  to  Quebec,  p.    294. 


Meteorological  Ohs>  rvutioits  at  Michilimadcinac. 

1  820.      |  Atmospheric  temp. 

Mean 

temp. 

Winds. 

Weather. 



\.    M. 

P.  ML 

!   "|  8 

1j 

21  6 
6.(59 
681*2 

57  j  4 
6~\~ 

8 
54 

55 
66~~ 

49~~ 
56_ 

June  7th, 

"    8th. 

46  47 

62 
61 
56 

W.  N.  W. 

Clear. 

59 
53 

55 

W.  N.  W 

" 

"    9th.  [4I 
"  "    10th.  ~ 

S.  E. 

Rain. 

S.  E. 

Rain. 

"    lllh.|52J 

54 

51 

52 

S.  E. 

Clear. 

"    12th. 

54      1oj 
|53|     !     | 

5. 

59 

s.  E. 

" 

«    13th 

53 

S.  W. 

Clear,  quit   Mack,  at 

10. 

7)  J8S 

55°  \Tpmii  daily  temperature. 

CHAP.  IV. 

J  O  U  M  jY  E  Yj 

FROM  MICHILIMACKIMC  TO  THE  SAULT  BE  ST.  MARIE. 


XXI.  Day.— (June  V3th.) 

J.  RE  provisions  and  stores  shipped  from  Detroit, 
did  not  reach  'Mackinac  until  the  10th  instant.  We 
also  found  our  canoes  deficient  both  in  size  and  con- 
struction, and  that  to  embark  the  provisions  of  the 
expedition,  an  additional  number  would  be  requir- 
ed. To  secure  our  corn,  flour,  bacon,  &c  more 
completely  from  exposure,  it  was  considered  advan- 
tageous to  get  the  principal  part  of  these  articles 
packed  up  in  ten  gallon  kegs,  an  arrangement  that 
would  also  very  much  facilitate  the  loading  and  un- 
loading, which  must,  at  least,  be  performed  every 
morning  and  evening.  Additional  sources  of  delay 
arose  from  military  equipments,  the  tardiness  of  me- 
chanics, and  unfavourable  winds,  which  prevented 
us  from  quitting  'Mackinac,  until  this  morning.  Our 
whole  force  now  consisted  of  forty-two  persons,  em- 
barked in  four  canoes,  exclusive  of  a  detachment  of 
twenty-two  soldiers  from  the  garrison  of 'Mackinac, 
under  the  command  of  Lieut.  Pierce,  which  occupied 
a  twelve  oared  barge.  This  escort  was  deemed  ne- 
cessary to  accompany  us  to  the  Sault,  where  the  In- 


126 

dians  were  reported  to  entertain  a  spirit  of  hostility 
towards  the  United  States,  and  some  even  went  so 
far  as  to  affirm  that  they  would  attempt  to  stop  our 
passage  through  Lake  Superior.  We  left  the  har- 
bour of  'Mackinac  at  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
with  a  favourable  breeze,  which  carried  us  at  the 
rate  of  five  miles  per  hour,  and  passing  the  De  Tour 
before  sun-set,  ascended  the  straits  of  St.  Mary,  five 
miles,  and  encamped  on  the  west  shore,  opposite 
Drummond's  Island.  The  entire  distance  is  forty- 
five  miles.  The  intermediate  places  of  most  note, 
are  Outarde  Island,  at  the  distance  of  three  leagues 
from  [\fichilimackinac,  and  the  mouth  of  Rapid  ri- 
ver, which  is  passed  at  the  distance  of  twenty  miles. 

The  banks  of  Lake  Huron  are  generally  low  and 
swampy  ;  in  some  places  there  are  sandy  plains, 
covered  with  pine.  The  shore  is  strewed  with  frag- 
ments of  limestone,  granite,  and  hornblende  ;  and 
the  former,  in  the  compact  form,  appears  in  situ,  at 
the  few  places  where  we  had  an  opportunity  to  ex- 
amine it.  A  ridge  of  highland  appears  on  the  main 
land  east  of  'Mackinac,  stretching  of!  towards  the 
Sault  de  St.  Marie,  in  a  general  course,  northeast. 
This  ridge  apparently  belongs  to  that  mountain 
chain  of  which  the  island  of  Michilimackinac  is,  pro- 
bably, one  of  the  disjointed  links  ;  but  we  are  not 
enabled  to  say  that  this  remark  will  be  justified  by 
geological  correspondences. 

The  Detour  is  the  western  cape  of  the  Straits  of 
St.  Mary,  distant  forty  miles  from  Michilimackinac, 
and  situated,  according  to  McKenzie,  in  north  lati- 
tude j/)°  54',  Here  our  course  is  suddenly  changed 
from  E.  to  N.  and  N.W.  consequently  the  wind,  which 
was  iavourable  thus  far,  proved   a  serious  incon- 


127 

venience  at  the  moment  of  our  turning  the  point.  No 
current  in  the  Strait  has,  however,  as  yet,  been  expe- 
rienced. The  mercury  has  not  risen  over  63°  in  the 
shade,  although  standing  at  82°  in  the  sun.  In  the 
course  of  the  afternoon  of  this  day,  on  landing  in  a 
small  cove,  on  the  Huron  shore,  we  saw  a  large  por- 
cupine upon  the  beach,  on  which  one  of  the  voya- 
geurs  immediately  jumped  out  of  the  canoe,  and 
killed  it  with  a  hatchet,  i  his  animal  has  general- 
ly  been  confounded,  by  the  travellers  of  the  region, 
with  the  hedge-hog,  which  is  entirely  different  in  its 
characters  and  habits,  and  is  not  supposed  to  inha- 
bit the  northern  regions  of  America,  although  it  is 
frequently  found  in  high  northern  latitudes  in  Eu- 
rope,— as  in  Norway,  Sweden,  and  Russia.  Buffon 
gives  two  engravings  of  the  porcupine,  as  distinct 
species,  under  the  name  of  UUrson,  and  Le  Coen- 
dou,  both  said  to  inhabit  the  Canadas.  But  there  is 
some  reason  to  suppose  that  he  has  described  the 
same  animal  in  its  summer  and  winter  dress,  as  the 
thinness  and  scarcity  of  hair  on  his  L'Urson,  is  the 
principal  characteristic  difference.  The  porcupine 
is  known  to  shed  a  great  portion  of  its  hair  as  the 
warm  season  approaches.  This  animal  is  called. 
Caqua,  by  the  Indans,  by  whom  it  is  highly  valued 
for  its  quills.  The  skin  does  not  form  an  article  of 
traffic,  but  it  serves  them  as  a  vessel  to  hold  bears 
oil,  and  as  medicine  bags  or  short  pouches.  The 
quills  are  dyed,  with  indigenous  plants,  of  various 
beautiful  colours,  and  employed  to  trim  the  edges  of 
their  mockasins,  leggons,  skins,  and  dresses.  The 
colours,  which  are  red,  blue,  green,  black,  and  yel- 
low, are  very  bright  and  permanent,  and  a  mockasin 
or  Indian  shoe,  which  has  been  thus  ornamented, 


128 

may  be  worn  any  length  of  time,  in  mud  and  water, 
without  perceiving  that  the  colouring  matter  of  the 
quills  is  any  way  obliterated  or  discharged.  The 
Indians  are  also  very  iond  of  the  tlesh  of  this  animal, 
which  is  said  to  be  delicious,  and  to  resemble  in  fla- 
vour a  young  pig.  It  fixes  its  habitation  under  the 
roots  of  trees,  but  being  provided  with  sharp  claws, 
also  ascends  their  boughs  in  quest  of  fruit.  There 
are  four  claws  on  each  fore  paw,  and  five  on  the 
hinder  ones.  It  has  small  ears,  hid  in  the  hair,  and 
a  long  bushy  tail  covered  with  coarse  hair,  white 
and  black,  It  is  a  lazy  animal,  seldom  going  more 
than  a  mile  from  its  habitation  ;  has  a  slow  motion, 
and  is  easily  overtaken  and  killed.  When  attacked 
it  appears  to  rely,  with  a  foolish  confidence,  upon  its 
quills,  which  are,  in  reality,  a  very  inefficient  de- 
fence. It  has  no  power  to  eject  them,  but  when 
touched,  they  easily  leave  the  skin,  but  will  not 
work  their  way  into  the  flesh,  as  has  been  repre- 
sented. The  Indians,  however,  employ  them  for 
boring  their  ears  and  noses.  They  seldom  make  use 
of  the  rifle  in  killing  this  animal,  but  run  up  and 
despatch  it  with  the  tomahawk.  The  one  now  kill- 
ed would  probably  weigh  eight  pounds. 

XXII.  Day. — (June  14th.)  We  embarked  at  five 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  and  reached  the  Sault  de  St. 
Marie,  in  season  to  pitch  our  tents  before  sun  set. 
The  distance  is  forty-five  miles.  The  country  con- 
tinues low  and  swampy,  until  you  come  within  three 
or  four  miles  of  the  Sault,  where  it  is  handsomely 
elevated.  There  are  two  rapids  in  the  intermediate 
distance,  which  arc  ascended  with  loaded  canoes. 
The  lake  or  strait,  may  be  supposed  to  cease,  and 


129 

the  river  to  commence,  at  the  foot  of  the  first  rapid 
called  Miscouiin  or  JVibish,  as  there  is  no  percepti- 
ble  current  below  it,  where   the  strait  assumes  a 
great  width,  and  is  filled  with  innumerable  islands. 
Keeping  close  to  the  western  shore,  these    islands 
constantly  bound  the  view  on  the  east   until    with- 
in five  miles  of  the  Sault,  where  the  different  chan- 
nels unite.     The  ship  channel  lies  on  the  east  side 
of  the  islands,  where  the  great  body  of  water  passes, 
and  the  rapids  are  less  formidable.      In  passing  up 
the  rapid  of  Nibish,  in   the   west  channel,    which 
is  generally  taken  by  canoes,  we  experienced  a  very 
swift  current,  and  shallow   water,  and  injured   our 
canoes  so  much  that  we  were  compelled  on  reaching 
the  head  of  it,  to  unload,  and    repair.      It  was  one 
o'clock  when  we  passed  the  rapid,  and  this  accident 
consumed  a  couple  of  hours.      In  the  meantime  the 
sky  became  overcast,  the  wind  arose  and  blew  ahead, 
and  very  heavy  peals  of  thunder,  indicated  an  ap- 
proaching storm.     After  waiting  sometime,  however, 
without  getting  any  rain,   we  reloaded  the  canoes 
and  embarked,  and  had  proceeded  five  or  six  miles 
when  a  heavy  shower  of  rain  commenced.      It  did 
not  compel  us  to  land,  and  at  six  o'clock  in  the  eve- 
ning the  sky  was  clear.      We  now  passed  the  site  of 
the  village  of  St.  Joseph,  upon  the  island  of  the  same 
name,  where  the  British   maintained  a  garrison  be- 
fore the  late   war,  but  it  was  demolished  by  Col. 
Croghan  previous  to  his  attack  upon  the  island  of 
Michilimackinac,  and  the  village  burnt.     Since  that 
perod  the  English  have  fortified  Drummond's  island 
at  the  entrance  of  the  straits,  which  is  now  the  depot 
of  their  Indian  trade.      The  island  of  St.  Joseph  is 
large  and  fertile,  and  was  considerably  cultivated 

17 


J30 

previous  to  the  late  war.  It  is  computed  to  be  se- 
venty-five miles  in  circumference,  and  to  cover  an 
area  o< "fifty-seven  thousand  six  hundred  acres,  which 
is  seven  times  the  size  of  the  island  of 'Mackinac.  The 
site  of  the  demolished  fort,  is  elevated  about  fifty 
feet,  and  is  extremely  beautiful  and  commanding. 
It  was  first  occupied  by  the  British  in  1795,  prepa- 
ratory to  the  surrender  of  'Mackinac  which  took 
place  the  following  year.  The  stone  chimneys  of 
the  former  houses  are  still  standing  to  attest  the  bar- 
barous policy  of  war.  At  eight  o'clock  we  passed 
the  second  rapid,  but  without  injury  to  our  canoes 
This  is  situated  two  miles  below  the  village  of  the 
Sault,  and  on  reaching  the  head  of  it,  we  have  a  hand- 
some view  of  that  village,  with  the  intervening  river 
and  shore,  and  the  dense  forest  of  elm,  sugar  maple, 
ash,  and  pine,  which  lines  this  part  of  the  river. '  In 
passing  up  this  river  from  the  Detour  no  change  in 
the  geological  appearances  of  the  country  are  seen, 
until  we  approach  the  head  of  the  island  of  St.  Jo- 
seph, where  the  compact  limestone  disappears,  and 
is  succeeded  by  a  red  sand  stone.  The  latter  rock 
is  particularly  apparent,  at  the  ensuing  rapid  in  the 
bed  of  the  river,  and  continues  from  that  onward. 

XXIII.  Day.— (June  lUh.)— The  Sault  de  St.  Ma 
rie,  is  the  largest  of  three  rapids  which  impede  the 
navigation  of  the  river  St.  Mary  between  Lake  Supe- 
rior and  Lake  Huron,  and  puts  a  final  stop  to  the 
ship  navigation  of  the  northern  lakes.  It  is  situated 
fifteen  miles  below  the  foot  of  Lake  Superior,  and 
ninety  northwest  of  the  island  of 'Mackinac,  in  N. 
latitude  46°  31'  according  to  McKenzie.  The  fall  of 
the  river,  at  this  rapid,  as  ascertained  by  Col.   Gra- 


131 

tiot,  is  twenty-two  feet  ten  inches,  in  little  more  than 
half  a  mile,  which  is  nearly  the  same  as  the  fall  of 
the  Ohio  at  Louisville  in  the  distance  of  two  miles.* 
Unlike  that,  however,  it  can  never,  at  any  season  of 
the  year,  be  ascended  with  large  vessels.  Canoes 
and  barges  usually  go  up  with  half  a  load,  the  ba- 
lance being  carried  over  the  portage,  but  in  return- 
ing, descend  with  a  full  load.  The  bed  of  the  river 
consists  of  horizontal  strata  of  red  and  variegated 
sand  stone,  which  have  been  much  worn,  broken, 
and  carried  away,  and  large  fragments  of  it,  together 
with  blocks  of  mixed  granite  and  hornblende,  out  of 
place,  are  thickly  strewed  throughout  the  rapid, 
and  by  opposing  the  rush  of  water,  throw  it  violent- 
ly in  all  directions,  and  at  the  distance  of  half  a  mile 
give  it  the  appearance  of  a  bank  of  foam.  Several 
wooded  islands  upon  the  inclined  plane  of  the 
falls,  by  contrasting  the  deep  green  foliage  of  the 
hemlock,  spruce,  and  pine,  with  the  snowy  white- 
ness of  the  rapids,  produce  a  contrast  which  has 
a  pleasing  effect ;  and  with  the  shadowy  outlines 
of  the  distant  mountains  of  Lake  Superior,  the 
singular  mixture  of  forest  trees  upon  the  shores, 
and  the  fishing  canoes  of  the  savages,  which  are  con- 
stantly seen  at  the  foot  of  the  falls,  render  it  one  of  the 
most  picturesque  views  of  northern  scenery.  I  have 
attempted  to  seize  upon  some  of  the  prominent  fea- 
tures of  this  scene  in  the  accompanying  sketch,  (Plate 
3,)  which  may  also  serve  to  convey  an  idea  of  the 
unusual  martner  in  which  the  maple,  and  the  pine, — 
the  elm,  and  the  hemlock,  are  intermingled  in  the 
forests  upon  the  banks  of  this  beautiful  stream. 

*  See  Dr.  Drake's  Natural  and  Statistical  View  of  Cincinnati, 
and  the  Miami  country,  p.  15. 


132 

The  village  of  the  Sault  de  St.  Marie,  is  on 
the  south  or  American  shore,  and  consists  of  from 
fifteen  to  twenty  buildings,  occupied  by  five  or  six 
French  and  English  families.  Among  the  latter  is 
that  of  J.  Johnston,  Esq.  a  gentleman  of  rank,  who, 
in  the  prosecution  of  the  northwest  fur  trade,  set- 
tled here  shortly  after  the  close  of  the  American 
revolution,  and  married  the  daughter  of  a  Chippe- 
way  chief,  In  the  hospitality  and  politeness,  which 
during  our  stay  at  the  Sault,  we  experienced  in  this 
family,  we  have  been  made  to  forget  our  insulated 
situation,  and  to  observe  how  short  a  participation 
in  the  blandishments  of  refined  society,  is  sufficient 
to  obliterate  the  effect  of  the  fatigues  and  privations 
of  travelling.  The  site  of  the  village  is  elevated  and 
pleasant,  and  a  regular  plan  appears  to  have  been 
observed  in  the  buildings,  though  some  of  them  are 
in  a  state  of  dilapidation,  and  altogether  it  has  the 
marks  of  an  ancient  settlement  fallen  to  decay.  Such 
indeed  it  is,  having  been  settled  by  the  French  short- 
ly after  the  occupation  of  old  'Mackinac,  and  it  con- 
tinued for  a  long  time  the  site  of  a  French  fort  and 
Jesuit  mission.  Charlevoix,  in  1721,  speaks  of  thij 
mission  as  one  of  no  recent  date,#  and  Henry,  in  1762, 
found  here  a  stockaded  fort,  with  a  small  garrison, 
under  the  command  of  a  French  national  officer, 
who  was  colloquially  addressed  by  the  title  of  Go- 
vernor:]' There  were  then  four  houses,  two  of  which 
had  been  occupied  as  barracks,  and  the  fort  is  de- 
scribed as  "  seated  on  a  beautiful  plain,  of  about 
two  miles  in  circumference,  and  covered  with  luxu- 

*  Charlevoix's  Journal,  Vol.  II.  p.  45. 
t  Henry's  Travels,  p.  5S. 


133 

riant  grass,  and  within  half  a  mile  of  the  Rapids." 
Although  no  vestiges  of  the  old  fort  remain,  this  de- 
scription of  the  site  is  perfectly  accurate  at  the  pre- 
sent moment.  It  has  always  been  the  residence  of 
Indian  tribes,  who  are  drawn  to  this  spot  in  great 
numbers,  by  the  advantages  of  taking  the  white-fish, 
which  are  very  abundant  at  the  foot  of  the  rapid. 
There  are,  at  present,  about  forty  lodges  of  Chippe- 
way  Indians,  (called  Saulteurs,  by  the  Krench,)  con- 
taining a  population  of  about  two  hundred  souls,  who 
subsist  wholly  upon  the  white-fish.  "  The  method 
of  taking  them  is  this  : — Each  canoe  carries  two 
men,  one  of  whom  steers  with  a  paddle,  and  the 
other  is  provided  with  a  pole,  ten  feet  in  length,  and 
at  the  end  of  which  is  affixed  a  scoop  net.  The 
steersman  sets  the  canoe  from  the  eddy  of  one  rock 
to  that  of  another;  while  the  fisherman,  in  the  prow, 
who  sees,  through  the  pellucid  element,  the  prey  oi 
which  he  is  in  pursuit,  dips  his  net,  and  sometimes 
brings  up  at  every  succeeding  dip,  as  many  as  it  can 
contain.  The  fish  are  often  crowded  together  in  the 
water  in  great  numbers,  and  a  skilful  fisherman,  in 
autumn,  will  take  five  hundred  in  two  hours.  This 
fishery  is  of  great  moment  to  the  surrounding  Indians, 
whom  it  supplies  with  a  large  proportion  of  their 
winter's  provision  ;  for,  having  "taken  the  fish  in  the 
manner  described,  they  cure  them  by  drying  in 
the  smoke,  and  lay  them  up  in  large  quantities." 
.(jHenry.)  These  fish  are  preferred- by  most  of  our 
party  to  the  'Mackinac  trout.  Their  abundance 
may  hereafter  render  them  an  important  article  in 
the  commerce  of  the  upper  lakes. 

On  the  north,  or  Canadian  shore  of  the  river,  there 
are  also  six  or  seven  dwelling  houses,  occupied  by 


134 

French  and  English  families,  exclusive  of  the  North- 
west Company's  establishment,  which  is  seated  im- 
mediately at  the  foot  of  the  Falls,  and  consists  of  a 
number  of  store  and  dwelling  houses,  a  saw  mill, 
and  a  boat  yard.  These  are  represented  on  the 
right  side  of  the  View  of  the  Sault  de  St.  Marie. 
Plate  No.  3.  This  company  have  also  constructed 
a  canal,  with  a  lock  at  its  lower  entrance,  and  a 
towing  path  for  drawing  up  barges  and  canoes.  At 
the  head  of  the  rapid  they  have  built  a  pier  from 
one  of  the  islands,  forming  a  harbour,  and  here  a 
schooner  is  generally  lying  to  receive  the  goods 
destined  for  the  Grand  Portage,  and  the  regions 
northwest  of  Lake  Superior. 

XXIV.  Day. — {June  1 6th.)  The  commanding  po- 
sition of  the  Sault  de  St.  Marie,  on  the  outlet  of 
Lake  Superior,  and  at  the  head  of  ship  navigation, 
had  early  pointed  it  out  to  the  French  as  an  advan- 
tageous site  for  a  military  and  a  trading  post,  and  we 
accordingly  find  that  it  was  occupied  as  such  at  an 
early  period  of  the  settlement  of  Canada.  By  this 
place  all  the  fur  trade  of  the  northwest  is  compelled 
to  pass,  and  it  is  the  grand  thoroughfare  of  Indian 
communication  for  the  upper  countries,  as  far  as  the 
arctic  circle.  Independent  of  these  circumstances, 
the  advantages  of  taking  the  white-fish,  at  the  foot 
of  the  Rapids,  have  always  rendered  it  a  place  of 
resort  to  the  Indian  tribes  of  the  region,  particular- 
ly during  the  summer  season,  when  the  hunting  is 
most  precarious.  No  place  could,  therefore,  be 
better  adapted  to  acquire  an  influence  over  the  sa- 
vage tribes,  to  monopolize  their  commerce,  and  to 
guard  the  frontier  settlements  against  their  incur 


13b 

sions.  It  is,  indeed,  surprising  to  reflect  upon  the 
early  enterprize  and  sound  judgment  of  the  French 
in  seizing  upon  the  points,  commanding  all  the 
natural  avenues  and  passes  of  the  lakes,  particular- 
ly when  it  is  considered  that  these  selections  must 
necessarily  have  been  the  result  of  an  intimate  ac- 
quaintance with  the  geographical  features  of  the 
country.  This  is  yearly  proved  by  the  re-occupa- 
tion of  posts  and  places  long  neglected,  but  the  im- 
portance of  which  has  become  apparent  in  propor- 
tion as  we  have  set  a  just  value  upon  the  Indian 
trade,  and  the  natural  advantages  of  the  country. 
Perhaps  in  no  instance  is  this  more  strikingly  exem- 
plified than  in  the  Sault,  the  commanding  position  of 
which,  although  always  known  to  the  traders,  has 
but  lately  been  perceived  by  our  government.  The 
advantages  which  a  rival  nation  has  taken  of 
this  neglect,  could  not  fail  to  excite  attention  at  a 
period  when  such  laudable  exertions  are  making  in 
all  parts  of  the  Union  to  explore  the  geography,  and 
to  call  into  action  the  hidden  resources  of  the  coun- 
try ;  and  it  appears  to  have  been  among  the  prima- 
ry objects  of  the  expedition  to  prepare  the  way  for 
the  introduction  of  an  American  garrison  at  this  place. 
To  attain  this  object,  a  council  of  the  chiefs  of  the 
Chippeway  tribe  was  this  morning  summoned  at  the 
Governor's  marque,  and  the  views  of  the  govern- 
ment explained  to  them.  By  the  treaty  of  Green- 
ville, of  1795,  a  saving  clause  had  been  inserted  by 
Gen.  Wayne,  covering  any  gifts  or  grants  of  land  in 
the  Northwest  Territories,  which  the  Indians  had 
formerly  made  to  the  French  or  English  govern- 
ments,*   and    this    clause    has    been   renewed    or 

*  In  the  third  article  ©f  this  treaty,  after  reciting  a  number  of 
particular  cessions  of  lands^  posts  and  carrying  places,  number. 


136 

confirmed  by  treaties  with  the  same  tribes  since 
the  conclusion  of  the  late  war.*  Under  this  trea- 
ty, the  United  States  claimed  the  concession  for- 
merly made  at  the  Sault,  to  the  French,  by  virtue  of 
which  it  had  been  occupied  as  a  military  post.  It 
was  now  proposed  to  treat  for  settling  the  boundaries 
of  the  grant,  and  in  this  way  obtain  an  acknowledg- 
ment and  renewal  of  it.  These  things  were  distinct- 
ly stated  through  the  interpreter.  The  Indians, 
seated  in  their  usual  ceremonious  manner,  listened 
with  attention,  and  several  of  the  chiefs  spoke  in  re- 
ply. They  were  evidently  opposed  to  the  proposi- 
tion, and  first  endeavoured  to  evade  it,  by  pretend- 
ing to  know  nothing  of  the  former  grant,  but  this 
point  being  pressed  home,  was  afterwards  given  up, — 
still  they  continued  to  speak  in  an  evasive  and  desul- 
tory manner,  which  amounted  to  a  negative  refusal, 
It  was  also  observable  that  there  was  no  great  unan- 
imity of  opinion  among  them,  and  some  animated 
discussion,  between  themselves,  took  place.  Some 
appeared  in  favour  of  settling  the  boundary,  provid- 
ed it  was  not  intended  to  be  occupied  by  a  garrison- 
saying,   that   they  were    afraid  in  that  case,  their 

ed  from  one  to  eleven,  it  also  cedes,  "  12th.  The  post  of  De- 
troit, and  all  the  land  to  the  north,  the  west,  and  the  south  of 
it,  of  which  the  Indian  title  has  been  extinguished  by  gifts  or  grants 
to  the  French  or  English  governments,"  &c.  Treaty  with  the 
Wyandot,  Delaware,  Shawanee,  Ottaway,  Chippeway,  Pottawata* 
mi,  Miamie,  Eel-river,  IVeea,  Kickapoo,  Piankathaw.  and  Kaskas- 
Ida  nations.  Greenville,  3d  August,  1795. — Land  Laws  of  the 
United  States}  p.  56. 

*  By  the  treaty  of  Detroit,  or  Spring  Wells,  of  the  8th  Septem- 
ber, 1815,  and  by  the  treaty  of  Fort  Harrison,  of  the  4th  June; 
1816. 


137 

young  men  might  prove  unruly,  and  kill  the  cattle 
and  hogs  that  should  stray  away  from  the  garrison. 
This  was  intended  as  an  insidious  Ihreat,  and  I  was 
particularly  struck  with  the  reply  of  Gov.  Cass,  to 
the  chief  who  had  thrown  it  out,  in  which  he  said, — > 
that  as  to  the  establishment  of  a  garrison  at  the 
Sault,  they  might  give  themselves  no  uneasiness,  for 
that  point  was  already  settled,  and  so  sure  as  the 
sun,  which  was  then  rising,  would  set,  so  sure 
would  there  be  an  American  garrison  sent  to  (hat 
place,  whether  they  renewed  the  grant  or  not.  Such 
decision  has  always  great  weight  with  the  In- 
dians, and  in  the  present  instance  was  particularly 
so,  as  a  casual,  but  indiscreet  and  unauthorised  con- 
versation which  had  been  held  by  some  officer  of 
our  party  with  one  of  the  chiefs,  before  the  council 
assembled,  had  given  them  to  understand  that  the 
United  States  did  not  wish  to  occupy  the  Sault  as  a 
military  post.  They  were,  however,  determined  not 
to  accede  to  our  wishes,  and  in  seeing  ourselves 
surrounded  by  a  brilliant  assembly  of  chiefs,  dressed 
in  costly  broadcloths,  feathers,  epaulets,  medals,  and 
silver  wares,  of  British  fabric,  and  arra^d  from 
the  manufactories  of  Birmingham,  all  gratuitously 
given,  we  could  not  mistake  the  influence  by  which 
they  were  actuated  in  this  negociation.  When, 
therefore,  several  hours  had  been  spent,  during  the 
latter  part  of  which  the  Indians  employed  a  very 
animated  language,  and  strong  gesticulation,  the 
council  broke  up,  somewhat  abruptly,  without  com- 
ing to  any  final  decision,  at  least,  without  assenting 
to  the  proposition.  The  last  chief  who  spoke,  called 
"  the  Count,"'(a  brigadier  in  the  British  service.)  in  the 
course  of  his  s       cs.  drew  his  war-lance  and  stack  it 

furiously  in  the  ground  before  him,  and  assumed  a 

18 


138 

look  of  savage  wildrJess,  which  appeared  to  produce 
a  corresponding  effect  upon  the  other  Indians,  for 
there  was  an  evident  agitation  among  them,  during 
the  latter  part  of  the  council  ;  and  when  he  left 
the  marque  kicked  away  the  presents  which  had 
been  laid  before  him.  On  breaking  up.  they  pro- 
ceeded directly  to  their  encampment,  and  we  dis- 
persed to  our  tents.  A  few  moments  only  had, 
however,  elapsed,  before  it  was  discovered  that  the 
Indians  had  hoisted  the  British  flag  in  the  midst  of 
their  encampment.  On  being  informed  of  this,  Gov. 
Cass  immediately  ordered  the  expedition  under 
arms,  and  calling  the  interpreter,  proceeded,  with 
no  other  escort,  to  the  lodge  of  the  chief,  before 
whose  door  it  had  been  erected,  took  down  the  in- 
sulting flag,  and  carried  it  back  to  our  camp.  Up- 
on this  occasion  he  entered  the  lodge  of  the  chief 
who  had  raised  it,  (the  same  who  had  before  drawn 
his  war-lance  in  council,)  and  told  him  it  was  an  in- 
dignity they  were  not  permitted  to  offer  upon  the 
American  territories, — that  we  were  their  natural 
guardians  and  friends,  and  were  always  studious  to 
render  them  strict  justice,  and  to  promote  their 
peace  and  happiness  ;  but  the  flag  was  the  distin- 
guishing token  of  national  power,  connected  with 
.our  honour  and  independence, — that  two  national 
standards  could  not  fly  in  peace  upon  the  same  ter- 
ritory,— and  that  they  were  forbid  to  raise  any  but  our 
own.  and  if  they  should  again  presume  to  attempt  it, 
the  United  States  would  set  a  strong  foot  upon  their 
necks,  and  crush  them  to  the  earth.*     This  intrepid 

*  I  vlo  not  pretend  to  quote  the  exact  language  of  the  Governor, 
or  to  l»o  posiiive  as  to  every  sentiment  uttered,  not  having  heard 
him,  but  rely  upon  my  recollection  of  the  account  given  by  the 


3  39 

conduct  struck  the  Indians  with  astonishment,  and 
produced  an  effect, — which  we  were  not  at  the  mo- 
ment sensible,  was  all  that  prevented  an  open  rup- 
ture. In  ten  minutes  from  the  Governor's  return  to 
our  camp,  the  Indians  cleared  their  lodges  of  every 
woman  and  child,  covering  the  river  with  canoes, 
and  expecting  so  decisive  a  step  to  be  followed  by 
a  general  attack  of  their  camp.  In  the  mean  time 
it  was  looked  upon  by  the  expedition,  as  a  prepara- 
tory movement  to  the  savage  war  whoop,  and  we 
stood  prepared  to  encounter  the  shock.  Our  num- 
ber, at  this  time,  including  Lieut.  Pierce's  command, 
was  sixty-six  men,  well  armed  and  prepared  ;  about 
thirty  of  whom  were  United  States  soldiers.  The 
number  of  Indian  warriors  then  upon  the  ground  was 
between  seventy  and  eighty,  being  also  well  armed 
in  the  Indian  manner.  Our  encampment  was  regu- 
larly formed  upon  the  green,  near  the  banks  of  the 
river.  The  Indians  occupied  an  eminence  which 
was  formerly  the  site  of  the  French  fort,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  five  or  six  hundred  yards,  and  separated 
from  us  by  a  small  ravine.  We  were  kept  in  this 
state  of  alarm  for  some  time,  when  the  Indians  hav- 
ing ceased  to  hold  themselves  in  a  hostile  attitude, 
the  soldiers  were  dismissed  to  their  tents.  In  the 
mean  time,  an  overture  was  proposed  by  some  of 
the  older  chiefs,  who  had  not  been  present  at  the 
council  in  the  morning,  and  about  seven  o'clock  in 
the  evening  a  treaty  was  concluded  and  signed,  by 

interpreter,  (the  only  person  with  him,)  on  his  return  to  camp.  I 
should  not  take  the  liberty  of  quoting  itatall,  were  it  not  necessary 
to  shew  the  feeling  of  resentment  with  which  the  insult  was  re- 
ceived, and  to  explain  our  critical  situation  upon  that  occasion. 


140 

which  they  cede  to  the  United  States  a  tract  of 
land  four  miles  square,  commencing  at  the  Sault,  and 
extending  two  miles  up,  and  the  same  distance  down 
the  river,  with  a  depth  of  four  miles,  including  the 
portage,  and  the  site  of  the  village  and  old  fort,  but  re- 
serving the  right  of  fishing  at  the  falls,  and  of  en- 
campment upon  the  shore.  When  the  agreement 
was  concluded,  the  Indian  ceremony  of  smoking  the 
pipe  of  peace,  and  shaking  hands,  as  mentioned  in 
Day  X  was  performed,  and  their  signatures  by  mark, 
were  afterwards  obtained.  For  this  cession  of  land 
they  were  paid  on  the  spot,  in  blankets,  knives,  sil- 
ver wares,  broadcloths,  and  other  Indian  goods. 


CHAP.  V. 


J  O  U  RJV  E  Y, 

PROM  THE  SAULT  DE  ST.  MARIE  TO  THE  OJVTOjXAGON 
RIVER  O.V  LAKE  SUPERIOR. 


XXV.  Day.— {June  llth.) 

IJURING  our  stay  at  the  Sault,  eleven  barges  and 
canoes  from  the  upper  lakes  descended  the  rapids 
affording  us  a  handsome  opportunity  to  witness  the 
skill  of  the  voyageurs  in  conducting  canoes  over  this 
dangerous  leap.  They  were  principally  laden  with 
furs  and  skins  for  the  North  West  and  American 
companies.  At  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  we  com- 
menced the  ascent  of  the  Sault,  the  canoes  carrying- 
half  loads,  while  the  soldiers  were  employed  in  car- 
rying the  remainder  of  the  baggage  across  the  port- 
age, which  is  a  little  more  than  half  a  mile  in  length. 
It  was  six  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  before  this  labour 
was  finished,  when  we  embarked  and  proceeded  six 
miles  to  Point  aux  Pins,  on  the  Canadian  side  of  the 
river  ;  and  this  is  the  only  night  during  the  whole 
expedition  which  we  passed  in  the  Canadian  ter- 
ritory. Point  aux  Pins  was  formerly  noted  as  the 
site  of  a  ship  yard,  and  had  a  few  buildings  to  ac- 
commodate the  workmen,  but  the  vestiges  of  these 
only  remain.  The  width  and  depth  of  the  river  at  this 
place,  must  have  rendered  it  a  favourable  spot  for 


142 

launching  vessels.  The  current  is  very  gentle,  and 
the  shore  sandy,  and  entirely  free  from  rocks.  The 
thermometer  this  day  at  3  P.  M.  stood  at  U2°,  being 
the  highest  point  at  which  it  has  been  observed  up- 
on the  river  St.  Mary.* 

XX VI  Day.— (June  lSfh.)— We  embarked  at  six 
o'clock  in  the  morning.  The  distance  from  Point 
aux  Pins  to  the  entrance  into  Lake  Superior,  was 
now  three  leagues,  the  river  spread  broadly  before 
us,  and  the  highlands  which  had  been  dimly  seen 
from  the  Sault,  presented  their  imposing  outlines 
distinctly  to  the  view,  and  were  every  moment  as- 
suming a  new  and  more  interesting  character.  The 
morning  was  clear  and  pleasant,  with  a  gentle  breeze 
blowing  up  the  river,  which,  while  it  filled  our  sails 
and  relieved  the  voyageurs  from  labour,  produced 
an  exhileraling  effect  upon  our  spirits,  by  its  refresh- 
ing coolness ;  and  we  approached  the  lake  with  a 
feeling  of  impatient  delight.  The  most  enchanting 
views  were  presented  in  every  direction, and  we  fully 
realized  the  justice  of  the  remark  made  by  Carver 
w  that  the  entrance  into  Lake  Superior  affords  one  of 
the  most  pleasing  prospects  in  the  world."  Suddenly, 
however,  a  storm  arose,  and  compelled  us  precipi- 
tately to  land,  and  we  were  here  detained  from  five 


*  V  hi  i  n  onu  tt  <  at  t  bsei  v  'lions  on  the  journey  t'rom  'Mackinac  to 

Like  Superior. 

UATIS. 
18< 

June  i  1th 
«  14th. 

Place  of  obser- 
vation. 

A. 

M. 

P.   M. 

Mean 
heat. 

Wind  and 
Weather. 

6 

o 

10 

I  ? 

1 

3 

4 

71  9 

'Mack,  to  Detour. 

53 

61 

63 

58 

59 

Win  1,  S   W. 
Hum. 

St.  Mary's  River. 

55 

50 

73 

57 

61 

"   IStli. 
[     "   16m. 

Sault  Ue  St.  Marie. 

66 

67 

69 

561 

64 

Clear. 
Clear 

<•          it 

70 

76 

81 

66 

69 

"  17ih. 

tt           a 

58 

17 

[82 

8 

|78 

75 

Clear. 

"  18th. 

Head  Uiv.  St.  Mary 

5rt| 

70 

76|     | 

68J 

67 

ilainThuiiiler&c 

395 
66°  i 

Tieandai.heat.j 

143 

to  six  hours.  In  the  mean  time  the  rain  fell  in  tor- 
rents, attended  with  very  frequent  peals  of  the  most 
severe  and  appalling  thunder.  At  one  in  the  after- 
noon, the  weather  was  perfectly  clear  and  delight- 
ful, when  we  again  embarked.  The  entrance  into 
Lake  Superior  was  now  in  full  view,  presenting  a 
scene  of  beauty  and  magnificence  which  is  rarely 
surpassed,  even  amid  the  rugged  scenery  of  the  north. 
The  river  St.  Mary  here  issues  from  a  deep  bay  of 
the  lake,  and  passes  out  between  two  high  promon- 
tories called  Point  Iroquois,*  and  the  Grand  Cape, 
which  appear,  at  some  remote  period  of  the  crea- 
tion, to  have  been  rent  asunder,  by  one  of  those 
unaccountable  convulsions  which  have  produced. 
so  much  confusion  upon  the  surface  of  the  earth. 
This  opinion  is  rendered  probable  from  the  ge- 
neral course,  elevation,  and  other  appearances  of 
the  chain  of  mountains  which  here  runs  parallel 
with  the  lake  shore,  and  I  regret  that  we  were 
not  permitted  to  land  and  examine  the  geologi- 
cal appearances  of  the  rock  strata  on  both  sides, 
in  order  to  detect  a  physical  analogy  which  is  now 
only  conjectural.  I  felt  this  regret  the  more  sensi- 
bly, as  my  expectations  had  previously  been  excited 
by  the  account  of  an  important  mineral  discover}', 
which  Henry  states  to  have  been  formerly  made  at 
the  foot  of  the  southern  promontory,  which  is  Point 
Iroquois.t      But  these  considerations,  wer%merged 

*  This  point  takes  its  name  from  the  circumstance  of  a  large 
party  of  Iroquois  Indians  having  suffered  a  signal  defeat  upon  it, 
from  a  body  of  Fox's,  Ottagamies,  and  Chippeways.  So  say  Car- 
ver and  Henry. 

f  The  following  extract  embraces  the  notice  alluded  to.  "  Mr. 
Norburg,  a  Russian  gentleman,  acquainted  with  metal?  and  hold- 
ing a  commission  in  the  60th  Regt.  and  then  in  garrison  at  Michi 


144 

in  objects  of  greater  moment,  and  alter  our  long  de- 
tention by  the  storm,  and  the  favourable  wind  we  now 
enjoyed,  the  advantages  of  a  speculative  enquiry,  or 
the  chance  of  falling  upon  a  useful  discovery,  oppos- 
ed too  feeble  an  argument  for  a  further,  and  to  be 
useful,  a  more  considerable  detention.  On  passing 
this  point,  the  lake  spread  like  a  sea  before  us.  To- 
wards the  north,  we  could  discern  across  the 
bay  the  distant  highlands  which  border  the  Cana- 
dian shore  of  the  lake,  while  on  the  south  the  moun- 
tain chain  extending  from  the  head  of  the  river 
St.  Mary,  westward,  towered  majestically  into  the 
air,  and  presented  a  fine  contrast  to  the  bound- 
less expanse  of  waters  at  its  base.  In  coasting 
along  the  shore  for  fifteen  miles  we  passed  the 
mouth  of  Tanquamenon  river,  with  a  small  island 
of  the  same  name  lying  off*  its  mouth,  and  proceed- 
ed three  leagues  beyond  where  we  encamped  at 
eleven  o'clock  at  night,  at  the  mouth  of  Shelldrake 
river,  having  advanced  altogether  a  distance  of  thir- 
ty-four miles.  We  generally  kept  within  a  mile  of 
the  shore,  and  often  much  nearer  so  that  it  was  con- 
stantly in  plain  sight.  The  shore  of  the  lake  thus 
far  is  sandy,  without  large  pebbles,  and  with  no  bluff 
rocks  at  the  water's  edge,  although  the  highlands  a 
few  miles  back,  rise  10  a  great  height.  The  growth 
of  timber  is  pine,  hemlock,  (pinus  canadensis)  oakr 
aspen,,^(pl  birch.     At  Shelldrake  river,  we  found  se- 

limackinae, accompanied  us  on  this  expedition.  As  we  rambled 
among  the  shads  cyr  loose  stones  in  search  of  minerals,  Mr.  Nor- 
burg  chanced  to  find  one  of  fight  pounds  weight,  of  a  blue  colour, 
and  semi-transparent,  rhis  he  carried  to  England,  where  it  pro- 
duced in  the  proportio  of  sixty  pounds  of  silver  to  a  hundred 
weight  of  ore.     It  was  reposited  in  the  British  Museum." 

Henry's  Travels,  p.  231- 


145 

vera!  lodges  of  Chippeway  Indians,  who  are  drawn  to 
this  spot  by  the  advantages  of  taking  fish  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  ;  they  appeared  friendly — pre- 
sented us  some  dried  white  fish,  and  received  in  re- 
turn, some  tobacco. 

XXVII.  Day.— -(June  19th.)— At  the  moment  we 
were  prepared  to  embark,  a  number  of  northwest 
barges,  worked  with  oars,  were  descried  approach- 
ing from  the  west,  and  we  concluded  to  await  their 
arrival.  It  proved  to  be  Mr.  Morrison,  an  agent  of 
the  American  Fur  Company,  with  five  heavy  barges 
laden  with  furs  from  the  Fond  du  Lac  department, 
on  his  annual  return  to  Michilimackinac.  From  him 
we  obtained  information  respecting  the  best  route 
of  communication  from  the  head  waters  of  Lake 
Superior  to  those  of  the  Mississippi,  with  some  va- 
luable topographical  memoranda, and  in  consequence 
did  not  leave  Sheldrake  river  until  eight  o'clock. 
We  had  scarcely  gone  a  league  when  we  met  eigh- 
teen or  twenty  canoes  of  Chippeway  Indians  on 
their  way  to  the  Sault  cle  St.  Marie  and  Michilimack- 
inac. Always  expecting  some  presents  on  such  oc- 
casions, they  were  anxious  for  a  conference  and 
made  si^ns  for  us  to  stop,  and  some  of  their  canoes 
came  along  side,  but  sailing  with  a  good  wind,  we 
passed  on.  At  the  distance  of  nine  miles  we  turned 
White  Fish  Point,  which  is  a  barren  peninsula  of 
sand,  stretching  a  considerable  distance  into  the 
lake,  with  a  few  aspen  trees,  and  rising  in  some  pla- 
ces in  naked  hills  of  sand,  which  the  wind  is  contin- 
ually whirling  into  the  air,  and  depositing  in  banks 
and  ridges,  like  drifting  snow.  Here  a  considerable 
alteration  of  course  brought  the  wind  directly  ahead, 

19 


146 

Bp  that  we  were  compelled  to  lower  sail,  and  in  a 
short  time,  a  storm  approaching  from  the  west,  drove 
us  to  land.  While  thus  detained  an  express  from  the 
Sault  de  St.  Marie,  overtook  us  bringing  letters  tor 
the  Governor,  &c.  It  was  a  bark  canoe,  very  light, 
and  strongly  manned,  and  after  tarrying  a  couple  of 
hours,  was  despatched  back.  In  the  mean  while,  the 
wind  had  subsided,  and  after  progressing  ten  miles  we 
encamped  upon  the  sand.  The  shore  of  the  lake  has 
been,  thus  far,  a  perfect  sand  bank,  without  a  pebble 
to  variegate  the  beach,  but  with  patches  of  iron-sand, 
(the  black  paper  sand  of  commerce)  abundantly  dis- 
persed over  a  broad  and  level  beach.  At  a  short, 
distance  back  from  the  lake,  a  thin  stratum  of  vege- 
table mould  has  accumulated  upon  the  sand  and  sus- 
tains a  forest  of  pines,  spruce,  birch,  and  aspen,  but 
the  humble  growth  indicates  the  sterility  of  the  soil. 

XXVIII.  Day.— (June  20th.)— We  left  our  encamp- 
ment this  morning  at  half  past  five.  In  going  twelve 
miles,  we  reached  the  mouth  of  Two-Hearted  riv- 
er, a  small  stream  not  navigable  with  canoes  ;  and 
seven  leagues  beyond  passed  the  outlet  of  a  ve- 
ry extensive  marsh,  called  the  Grande  Marrais.  Im- 
mediately west  of  this  commences  the  Grand  Sable, 
a  lofty  ridge  of  naked  sand  extending  nine  miles 
along  the  shore,  and  presenting  a  steep  acclivity  to- 
wards the  lake.  Its  medium  height,  as  estimated  by 
Dr.  Wolcott  of  the  expedition,  is  three  hundred  feet, 
and  it  presents  a  novel  and  interesting  appearance 
from  the  lake.  The  views,  however,  although  ge- 
nerally commanding,  present  a  great  uniformity,  and 
leave  upon  the  mind  a  strong  impression  of  bleak- 
ness and  desolation.     Even  the  few  bushes  and  trees 


147 

which  are  occasionally  seen,  serve  to  increase  this 
effect  by  their  impoverished  growth,  while  the  birds 
of  prey  which  we  observed  hovering  around  these 
bleak  sandy  heights,  could  hardly  be  considered  as 
ameliorating  the  dreariness  of  the  prospect.  The 
bald  eagle  perched  upon  a  shattered  tree  half  bu- 
ried in  the  sand,  looked  down  upon  us  in  security, 
fro  n  a  height  of  three  hundred  feet,  while  the  noisy 
raven,  and  the  slow  sailing  falcon,  were  perpetually 
upon  the  wing.  These  birds  are  generally  drawn 
togefher  upon  elevated  bluffs  and  barren  heights, 
that  they  may  more  easily  discover  and  be  directed 
to  their  prey,  either  in  the  adjoining  waters  or  uyon 
the  land,  and  at  the  same  time  they  are  thus  protect- 
ed from  the  unseen  approach  of  their  enemies.  But 
it  may  be  doubted  whether  they  do  not  always  add 
to  the  forbidding  appearances  of  such  scenes  as  are 
naturally  sterile,  and  destitute  of  vegetation.  There 
is,  however,  no  scene  wholly  without  attractions, 
and  by  an  admirable  arrangement  in  the  works  of 
nature,  what  is  denied  to  bleak  places  in  vegetable 
beauty,  is  often  supplied  in  the  rarity  of  animated  na- 
ture, or  in  the  order  of  the  unorganized  strata  of  min- 
eral matter ;  and  it  is  in  the  latter  respect,  that  the 
Grand  Sable  affords  an  interesting  object  of  con- 
sideration. It  is  composed  of  three  layers  of  sand, 
lying  horizontally,  and  distinctly  marked  as  sepa- 
rate deposits.  The  first  stratum  rising  from  the  wa- 
ter, is  a  light  yellow  silicious  sand,  unmixed,  and 
about  one  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  depth  ;  then 
succeeds  a  deposit  of  the  same  substance,  very  much 
mixed  with  pebbles  of  granite,  hornblende,  lime- 
stone, and  quartz  ;  and  this  forms  the  distinguishing 
mark  of  the  middle  stratum,  which  may  be  eighty 


14U 

ieet  in  thickness.  The  upper  stratum  is  loose  yel* 
Jow  sand,  in  every  respect  similar  to  the  first  or  low- 
er deposit,  except  that  it  is  continually  acted  upon 
by  the  winds,  and  contains  imbedded  trunks  of  trees, 
some  of  which  remain  in  the  position  in  which  they 
grew,  but  have  been  buried  by  drifting  sand  nearly  to 
their  tops,  and  thus  killed.  The  depth  of  this  top-stra- 
tum may  be  estimated  at  sixty  or  seventy  feet.  1  have 
made  all  these  estimates,  however,  on  the  assumed  al- 
titude of  the  entire  bank,  as  before  stated,  and  although 
this  may  be  incorrect,  yet  the  relative  thickness  of 
the  three  strata,  may  thus,  with  tolerable  accuracy, 
be  judged.  It  is  impossible  to  view  these  stupen- 
dous sand  hills,  without  being  at  the  same  time 
strongly  impressed  with  the  idea  that  they  owe  their 
arrangement  and  present  order  of  superposition  to 
the  agency  of  water,  and  that  this  fluid  has  at  some 
former  period  covered  their  highest  tops.  Dr.  Wol- 
cott,  who  with  considerable  labour  ascended  these 
sandy  eminences,  discovered  a  small  lake  of  pure 
water,  at  no  great  distance  back,  and  on  his  return 
presented  me  several  mineral  specimens,  picked  up 
during  the  excursion,  which  bear  the  appearances  of 
volcanic  origin,  together  with  a  couple  of  specimens 
of  corralline  petrifactions.  The  specimens  which 
suggest  the  idea  of  volcanic  production,  appear  to  be 
granitic  aggregates  semi-vitrified,  at  least,  on  the  sur- 
face, which  possesses  the  smoothness  and  gloss  of 
common  glass.  Some  of  these  specimens  are 
black,  without  gloss,  harsh  to  the  touch,  and  vesi- 
cular, resembling  certain  lavas,  but  all  possess  a  con- 
siderable specific  gravity,  and   will  sink  in  water.* 

*  I  have  not  been  able  since  my  return  to  submit  these  speci- 
mens to  '.he  examination  of  any  accurate   mineralogist,  or  to  uu 


149 

These  hints  may  serve  to  direct  the  attention  of  fu- 
ture travellers  to  this  subject,  which  I  have  only  to 
regret  other  objects  ot  the  expedition  did  not  allow 
us  leisure  to  investigate. 

On  passing  along  the  coast  of  the  Grand  Sable, 
we  observed,  through  the  water  which  is  very  trans- 
parent, large  tabular  rocks,  in  situ,  at  the  bottom  of 
the  lake  beneath  our  canoes,  and  on  encamping  a 
short  distance  west  of  the  termination  of  these  sand 
banks,  at  La  Pointe  La  Grand  Sable,  we  found,  appa- 
rently, a  similar  rock,  jutting  out  upon  the  shore  of 
the  lake,  and  rising  to  an  elevation  of  eight  or  ten 
feet  above  the  water.  On  examination,  this  prov- 
ed to  be  a  variegated  sand  stone  in  horizontal'  strata, 
tolerably  compact,  and  consisting  of  coarse  grains 
of  silicious  sand,  united  apparently  by  an  argilla- 
ceous cement.  Its  colour  is  white  or  red,  arrang- 
ed in  spots  and  stripes.  No  traces  of  shells  or  cor- 
rallines,  could  here  be  detected  in  the  rock.  It  is 
covered  by  an  alluvial  deposit  of  a  few  feet  in  depth 
bearing  cedars,  pines,  hemlock,  and  birch,  with 
some  beech,  oak,  and  maple  interspersed.  We  en- 
camped on  a  beach  of  sand,  near  the  entrance  of  a 
small  creek,  which,  from  a  violent  storm  that  raged 
during  the  night,  was  called  Hurricane  creek.  This 
storm  had  threatened  us  before  reaching  the  land, 
and  in  a  short  time  after,  the  wind  raged  with 
the  utmost  violence,  and  threw  the  lake  into  such 
disorder,  that  the  water  drove  into  the  Governor's 

dertake  myself  any  experiment  upon  their  composition,  and  am  not 
therefore  prepared  to  decide  upon  their  mineralogical  character. 
There  is  some  reason  to  conclude,  that  the  glossy  specimens  owe 
their  lustre  to  the  effects  of  water,  although  from  their  indented 
surface,  it  could  not  have  been  effected  by  common  attrition. 


150 

marque,  pitched  fifty  yards  from  the  margin,  and 
lashed  it  down.  At  the  same  time  the  thunder  was 
very  frequent  and  severe,  and  when  the  fury  of  the 
gale  abated,  a  heavy  rain  drenched  every  part  of  our 
camp. 

XXIX.  Day. — (June  2]st.) — The  rain  still  conti- 
nued at  early  day  light,  and  the  sea-like  swells  of 
the  lake  broke  furiously  upon  the  shore  long  after 
the  wind  had  entirely  ceased.  At  sun  rise  the  at- 
mosphere began  to  assume  its  usual  serenity,  the 
clouds  broke  away  rapidly,  and  before  eight  o'clock 
we  had  the  most  delightful  weather.  It  was  eleven, 
however,  before  the  lake  regained  sufficient  tran- 
quillity to  permit  us  to  embark.  A  perfect  calm  now 
reigned  in  the  atmosphere,  and  we  continued  the 
voyage  with  renovated  spirits.  On  going  three 
leagues,  we  reached  the  commencement  of  the  Pic- 
tured Rocks,  (La  Portaillt,  of  the  French  Voyageurs,) 
a  series  of  lofty  blulFs,  which  continue  for  twelve 
miles  along  the  shore,  and  present  some  of  the  most 
sublime  and  commanding  views  in  nature.  We  had 
been  told,  by  our  Canadian  guide,  of  the  variety  in 
the  colour  and  form  of  these  rocks,  but  were  wholly 
unprepared  to  encounter  the  surprising  groupes  of 
overhanging  precipices,  towering  walls,  caverns, 
water  falls,  and  prostrate  ruins,  which  are  here  min- 
gled in  the  most  wonderful  disorder,  and  burst  upon 
the  view  in  ever-varying  and  pleasing  succession. 
Jri  order  to  convey  any  just  idea  of  their  magnifi- 
cence, it  is  necessary  to  premise,  that  this  part  of 
the  shore  consists  of  a  sand  stone  rock  of  a 
lig'it  grey  colour  internally,  and  deposited  stra- 
tum super-stratum  to  the  height  of  three  hundred 


1/51 

feet,  rising  in  a  perpendicular  wall  from  the  water, 
and  extending  from  four  to  five  leagues  in  length. 
This  rock  is  made  up  of  coarse  grains  of  sand, 
united  by  a  calcareous  cement,  and  occasionally 
imbedding  pebbles  of  quartz  and  other  water- 
worn  fragments  of  rocks,  but  adhering  with  a 
feeble  force,  and,  where  exposed  to  the  weather, 
easily  crushed  between  the  fingers.  Externally,  it 
presents  a  great  variety  of  colour,  as  black,  red, 
yellow,  brown,  and  white,  particularly  along  the 
most  permanent  parts  of  the  shore,  but  where  mass- 
es have  newly  fallen,  its  colour  is  a  light  grey.*  In 
no  place  does  the  recent  fracture  disclose  any  traces 
of  red,  and  the  variety  of  outward  colouring  is  ow- 
ing partly  to  mineral  waters  which  appear  to 
have  oozed  out  of  the  crevices  of  the  rock,  but  main- 
ly, to  the  washing  down  of  the  banks  of  coloured 
clay  from  the  superincumbent  soil.  Thus,  although 
a  great  variety  of  surface  is  presented,  there  is,  in 
reality,  none  in  its  geological  character.t  This  stu- 
pendous wall  of  rock,  exposed  to  the  fury  of  the 

*  Adhering  too  rigidly  to  the  definitions  of  those  geologists  who 
consider  graywacke  as  consisting''  essentially  of  grains  of  quartz, 
cemented  together  by  indurated  clay,"  I  was  inclined,  at  the  mo- 
ment, to  apply  the  term  to  this  stratum  of  rock.  But  a  subsequent 
examination  of  my  specimens  proves  that  it  is  composed  essential- 
ly of  grains  of  quartz  cemented  by  a  calcareous  substance.  It 
preserves  also  the  granular  structure,  friability,  and  uniformity  of 
composition  of  common  sand  stone,  although  the  white  colour  and 
limey  consistence  of  the  cementing  matter,  gives  it,  on  the  first 
glance,  an  appearance  foreign  to  this  class  of  rocks. 

f  In  this,  respect,  (the  variety  of  external  colours,)  it  resembles 
the  Cal.co  Rock,  which  I  have  formerly  noticed  upon  the  banks  of 
White  River,  in  Arkai  saw  Territory. — Sze  the  New-York  Monthly 
Journal  and  Belles  LeUns  Repository, 


15% 

waves,  which  are  driven  up  by  every  north  wind 
across  the  whole  width  of  Lake  Superior,  has  been 
partially  prostrated  at  several  points,  and  worn  out 
into  numerous  bays,  and  irregular  indentations.  All 
these  front  upon  the  lake,  in  a  line  of  aspiring  pro- 
montories, which,  at  a  distance,  present  the  terrible 
array  of  dilapidated  battlements  and  desolate  tow- 
ers. 

"  Their  rooky  summits  split  and  rent, 

"  Form'd  turret,  dome,  or  battlement, 

"  Or  seemed  fantastically  set 

'*  With  cupola  or  minaret, 

"  Wild  crests  as  pagod  ever  decked, 

"  Or  mosque  of  eastern  architect." 

in  some  places  the  waves  have  lashed  down  the 
lower  strata,  while  the  upper  ones  hang  in  a  threat- 
ening posture  over  the  lake ;  in  others,  extensive 
caverns  have  been  worn  into  the  rock,  and  in  this 
way  rocky  bluffs,  nearly  severed  from  the  main,  or 
left  standing  upon  rude  and  massy  pillars,  between 
which  barges  and  canoes  might  with  safety  sail.  All 
that  we  have  read  of  the  natural  physiognomy  of 
the  Hebrides — of  Stafla, — the  Doreholm,  and  the 
romantic  Isles  of  the  Sicilian  coast,  is  forcibly  re- 
called on  viewing  this  scene,  and  it  may  be  doubt- 
ed whether,  in  the  whole  range  of  American  scen- 
ery, there  is  to  be  found  such  an  interesting  as- 
semblage of  grand,  picturesque,  and  pleasing  ob- 
jects. Among  many  striking  features,  two  attracted 
particular  admiration, — the  Cascade  La  Portaille, 
and  the  Doric  Arch.  The  cascade  is  situated  about 
four  miles  beyond  the  commencement  of  the  rai  ge 
of  bluQs.  and  in  the  centre  of  the  most  commanding 


* 


Do 


part  of  it.  It  consists  of  a  handsome  stream,  which 
is  precipitated  about  seventy  feet  from  the  bluff  into 
the  lake  at  one  leap.  Its  form  is  that  of  a  rain  bow,  ris- 
ing from  the  lake,  to  the  top  of  the  precipice.  We 
passed  near  the  point  of  its  fall  upon  the  surface  of 
the  lake,  and  could  have  gone,  unwetted,  between  it 
and  the  locks,  as  it  is  thrown  a  considerable  distance 
into  the  lake.  The  Doric  Rock,  of  which  a  profile  is 
given  on  the  title  page,  is  an  isolated  mass  of  sand 
stone,  consisting  ot  four  natural  pillars,  supporting  a 
stratum  or  entablature  of  the  same  material,  and 
presenting  the  appearance  of  a  work  of  art.  On 
the  top  of  this  entablature  rests  a  stratum  of  al- 
luvial soil,  covered  with  a  handsome  growth  of  pine 
and  spruce  trees,  some  of  which  appear  to  be  fifty  or 
sixty  feet  in  height.  To  add  to  the  factitious  ap- 
pearance of  the  scene,  that  part  of  the  entablature 
included  between  the  pillars  is  excavated  in  the 
form  of  a  common  arch,  giving  it  very  much  the 
appearance  of  a  vaulted  passage  into  the  court  yard 
of  some  massy  pile  of  antiquated  buildings.  A  lit- 
tle to  the  west  of  this  rock,  the  Miners  River  enters 
the  lake  by  a  winding  channel,  overshadowed  with 
trees,  and  intersected  by  a  succession  of  small  ra- 
pids. 

The  annexed  view,  (Plate  IV.)  represents  a  range 
of  bluffs,  immediately  west  of  the  Doric  Rock,  as 
viewed  from  the  lake,  and  embraces  some  of  the 
wonderful  excavations  which  diversify  this  part  of 
the  coast.     Grand  Isle  appears  in  perspective. 

In  passing  these  rocks,  one  of  our  voyageurs  pick- 
ed up,  upon  the  shore,  and  brought  to  me,  a  green 
translucent  pebble,  of  a  spheroidal  figure,  and  two 
ounces  in  weight.    A  subsequent  examination  of  this 

20 


J  54 

mineral  induces  me  to  consider  it  as  Prase,  winch  U 
arratiged  by  Cleaveland,  as  a  sub-species  of  quartz. 
Its  colour  is  a  light  uniform  leek  green,  and  fully 
translucent.  It  has  a  quartzy  hardness,  and  some- 
what of  a  waxy  lustre,  but  exhibits  no  appearances 
of  a  crystalline  structure, — its  spheroidal  shape  is 
owing  to  attrition.  This  mineral  is  stated  to  owe 
its  colour  to  actynolite,  or  epidote,  and  to  be  some- 
times employed  in  jewelry.  May  not  the  oxyd  of 
copper  be  the  colouring  ingredient  in  some  cases  ? 

In  landing  in  one  of  the  coves  to  examine  the  geo- 
logical appearances,  and  procure  specimens  of  the 
rock,  I  found,  among  an  infinite  variety  of  pebbles, 
which  are  washed  up  on  the  beach,  several  fragments 
ofcarnehan,  and  a  species  of  hornstone  jasper,  in  al- 
ternate bands  of  red,  black,  &c.  These  appearances 
created  a  desire,  which  it  was  impossible,  however, 
to  satisiy,  of  making  a  more  minute  examination  of 
the  mineralogy  of  the  coast.  It  is  considered  a  dan- 
gerous pass  when  there  is  any  wind  on  the  lake,  as 
there  are  very  lew  places  where  a  landing  can  be 
effected.  The  day,  however,  notwithstanding  the 
boicterous  weather  of  the  morning,  proved  calm  and 
pleasant,  and  we  proceeded  two  leagues  beyond  the 
termination  of  this  picturesque  shore,  and  encamp- 
ed on  Grand  Island,  in  n  large,  deep,  and  beautiful 
bay,  completely  land  locked.  Here  we  found  a  vil- 
lage of  Chippeway  Indians,  who,  as  soon  as  we  land- 
ed, came  from  their  lodges  to  bid  us  welcome.  They 
manifes  ed  the  most  friendly  disposition  towards  the 
party,  and  towards  the  United  States;  and  when 
they  were  told  of  our  objects  in  visiting  their 
country,  appeared  highly  ;  loused.  The  prompti- 
tude with  which  they  olfered  the  pipe  of  peace,  left 


155 

no  doubt  of  their  sincerity,  and  their  subsequent 
conduct  evinced  that  they  felt  themselves  flatter- 
ed by  our  visit.  In  the  evening  they  assembled 
in  our  camp,  to  shew  their  skill  in  dancing,  up- 
on which  they  all  pride  themselves,  and  spent  some- 
time in  this  amusement,  which  is  also  done  as  a 
mark  of  respect.  In  these  testive  feats,  they  were 
accompanied  by  their  own  music,  consisting  of  a  kind 
of  tambarine,  and  a  hollow  gourd,  filled  with  peb- 
bles, while  one  of  the  number  beat  time  upon  a 
stick,  and  all  joined  in  the  Indian  chant.  There  is 
something  animating  in  the  Indian  chorus,  and  at 
the  same  time,  it  lias  an  air  of  melancholy,  but  cer- 
tainly nothing  can  be  more  monotonous,  or  farther 
removed  from  our  ideas  of  music.  These  ceremo- 
nies lasted  sometime,  and  were  rather  an  annoyance 
to  the  party,  to  whom  they  presented  nothing  novel, 
and  as  is  usual,  were  only  a  prelude  to  the  custom- 
ary presents  of  whiskey  and  tobacco.  We  found 
these  Indians  very  poor,  both  as  to  clothing  and 
provisions,  but  were  struck  with  their  manly 
figure  and  beautiful  proportions.  During  the  eve- 
ning several  speeches  were  addressed  to  the  Go- 
vernor, in  the  course  of  which  we  were  told  that 
they  had  lately  returned  from  a  war  excursion 
against  the  Sioux,  in  which  they  had  lost  a  number 
of  warriors,  but  that  they  had  fallen  like  brave  men, 
and  were  worthy  of  being  called  Chippeways.  It 
appears  that  the  Indians  of  Grand  Island  had  been 
reproached  by  the  northern  bands  of  the  tribe  for 
not  taking  a  more  active  part  in  the  war  which  has 
been  so  long  waged  between  the  Chippeways  and 
the  Sioux.  To  wipe  off  this  stain,  they  determined  to 
make  an  irruption  into  the  Sioux  country,  without 


156 

giving  notice  to  any  other  part  of  the  tribe,  that  they 
might  claim  the  exclusive  merit  of  their  warlike 
deeds.  Accordingly,  a  party  of  thirteen  warriors 
proceeded,  by  the  most  unfrequented  paths,  into  the 
midst  of  the  Sioux  territories,  without  meeting  with 
any  opposition,  or  exciting  any  premature  alarm. 
Here,  however,  at  a  time  when  they  did  not  expect 
it,  they  suddenly  encountered  a  large  war  party  of 
their  enemies,  amounting  to  ten  times  their  number. 
As  a  negotiation  of  peace  had  been  commenced  be- 
tween the  two  tribes,  the  Sioux  were  disposed  to  re- 
ceive them  as  friends,  and  were  very  much  surprised 
to  hear  them  declare  that  they  had  left  their  homes 
on  a  war  excursion, — that  they  had  come  a  great  way 
to  meet  them,—- that  they  wanted  to  test  their  cou- 
rage,— and  that  they  rejoiced  there  was  now  an  op- 
portunity presented.  The  Sioux  replied  that  ihey 
thought  the  Chippeways  were  tired  of  a  long  war, 
in  which  so  much  blood  had  been  spilt, — that  they 
were  too  few  in  number  to  hope  for  any  success, 
and  had  belter  retire  in  peace  to  their  own  ter- 
ritories, as  their  destruction  was  otherwise  inevi- 
table. The  Chippeways  were,  however,  determin- 
ed in  their  hostility,  and  had  prepared  themselves  to 
die,  and  to  sell  their  lives  at  the  dearest  rate,  and 
the  next  morning  attacked  the  Sioux  in  their  camp. 
In  a  short  time  they  were  driven  back  to  the  place 
where  they  had  determined  to  make  a  final  stand, 
and  which  they  had  previously  fortified  by  digging- 
two  large  holes  or  intrenchments  in  the  ground, 
capable  of  affording  them  a  partial  shelter.  Into 
these  intrenchments  they  retired,  and  maintained 
the  unequal  contest  until  they  had  expended  their 
ammunition,    and    killed  more  than   double  their 


157 

number,  when  the  Sioux  surrounded  their  intrench- 
ments,  and  dispatched  the  survivors  with  their 
tomahawks.  Of  the  number  that  retired  into  these 
holes, not  one  escaped,  but  they  kept  up  a  destructive 
fire  upon  their  enemies,  while  their  ammunition  last- 
ed, for  they  were  protected  during  the  time  they  re- 
tired to  reload  their  guns.  To  transmit  the  fame  of 
this  exploit  to  their  nation,  they  had  appointed  the 
youngest  warrior  of  their  number  to  watch  on  an 
adjoining  hill,  and  when  their  fate  was  terminated,  to 
carry  the  news  to  their  friends.  By  this  it  seems 
that  they  had  previously  determined  to  die  in  their 
intrenchments.  This  messenger  had  not  been  long 
returned,  when  we  reached  Grand  Island,  where  he 
sung  the  exploits  of  his  departed  friends,  fie  was 
a  tall  and  beautiful  youth,  with  a  manly  countenance, 
expressive  eyes,  and  formed  with  the  most  perfect 
symmetry, — and  among  all  the  tribes  of  Indians 
whom  I  have  visited,  I  never  felt,  for  any  individual, 
such  a  mingled  feeling  of  interest  and  admiration. 

XXX.  Day. — (June  2'2d.) — We  embarked  at  six 
o'clock  in  the  morning,  the  weather  clear  and  calm. 
On  coming  out  of  the  bay  of  Grand  Island,  we  pass- 
ed a  small  wooded  island  on  the  right,  and  on  turn- 
ing a  point  of  land,  traversed  a  bay  of  four  leagues 
across,  in  the  centre  of  which  is  situated  the  Isle  aux 
Trains,  and  opposite  to  it,  in  the  extremity  of  the  bay, 
the  River  aux  Trains  discharges  into  the  lake. 
On  turning  the  next  point,  we  put  into  a  little  bay 
and  entered  the  mouth  of  Laughing  Fish  river,  which 
is  twenty  yards  wide,  deep, — with  reddish  water, 
and  a  sandy  shore.  Near  it  are  several  large 
syvamps,  which   maintain  a  connexion  with  Lake 


lijii 

Superior,  through  this  little  river,  and  a  singular 
ebbing  and  flowing  of  its  tide,  is  produced  by  the 
Swells  of  the  lake.  This  flux  and  reflux,  was  observ- 
ed three  times  during  our  stay,  a  space  of  thirty  or 
forty  minutes.  On  leaving  this  we  turned  a  promi- 
nent point  of  land,  and  steered  N.  70°  W.  across  a 
large  bay  in  which  are  successively  discharged  Cho- 
colate, Dead.*  and  Presque  Isle  rivers,  all  of  which  lay 
to  the  left  of  our  track,  and  encamped  on  a  ooint  of 
land,  which,  from  the  first  appearance  of  that  rock,  I 
shall  denominate  Granite  Point.  The  distance  across 
this  bay,  in  a  direct  line,  is  eighteen  miles,  but  by 
following  the  indentations  of  the  shore,  which  is  the 
usual  route,  it  is  fifty-one.  The  shore  of  the  lake 
continues  rocky  from  Grand  Isle,  to  near  Laughing 
Fish  river,  which  is  bordered  by  sandy  plains.  The 
rocks  are  red  sand  stone ;  on  Isle  aux  Trains  they 
dip  towards  the  northeast.  The  forest  trees  are 
chiefly  pine,  hemlock,  spruce,  and  birch.  On  reach- 
ing Granite  Point  a  new  scene  presents  itself.  Here- 
a  bluffof granite  rising  out  of  the  lake  to  a  height  of 
two  hundred  feet,  is  connected  to  the  shore  by  a 
neck  of  land  consisting  of  red  and  grey  sand  stone,  in 
horizontal  layers.  This  granite  is  made  up  of  red 
feldspar,  quartz,  and  a  little  mica,  and  very  much  mix- 
ed with  hornblende.  It  lies  in  a  confused  bed,  pre- 
;-«  ting  perpendicular  fissures,  and  traversed  by  re- 
gular veins  of  greenstone  trap.  These  veins  of  green- 
stone vary  from  two  to  thirty  feet  in  width,  and  are 
disposed  to  break  in  irregular  columnar  fragments, 
resembling,  in  some  degree,  the  columns  of  true 
basalt.  The  sand  stone  laps  upon  the  granite,  and 
fits  into  its  irregular   indentations  in  a  manner  that 

*  At  the  mouth  of  this  river,  Iron  Pyrites  of  a  brass  yellow  colour; 
9  rid  metalic  brilliancy,  is  found. 


160 

est  formations.  Its  position  would  indicate  a  near 
alliance  to  the  "  old  red  sand  stone."  Werner  has 
consrdered  this  rock  in  all  situations  as  secondary. 
Bakewell  places  it  in  the  class  of  transition  rocks,  in 
which  he  is  followed  by  McClure  and  by  Eaton.  I 
am  not  prepared  to  decide  upon  a  point  upon  which 
my  opportunities  of  observation  have  as  yet  been  lim- 
ited, and  there  appears  to  be  something  so  objectional 
in  the  dogmatism  with  which  these  things  are  usually 
stated,  that  I  shall  content  myself,  in  the  present  in- 
stance, with  the  bare  recital  of  the  facts  above  enu_ 
merated. 

XXXI.  Day. — (June  23//.} — The  morning  was  cloudy 
and  hazy,  but  we  did  not  suffer  these  appearances 
to  deter  us  from  quitting  our  encampment  at  an  ear- 
ly hour.  In  a  few  moments  after  getting  under  way, 
a  fair  breeze  arose,  and  we  proceeded  to  the  next 
prominent  point,  a  distance  of  five  leagues,  in  three 
hours.  Here  we  again  saw  granite  rock  overlayed 
by  sand  stone.  The  wind  now  flagging,  we  went  un- 
der oars  to  the  mouth  of  Huron  river,  a  distance  of 
eleven  leagues,  where  we  encamped  at  four  in  the 
afternoon,  in  consequence  of  rain.  In  the  course  of 
the  day,  we  have  successively  passed  the  Garlic,  St, 
John's,  Salmon  Trout,  and  Pine  rivers,  all  streams 
of  secondary  magnitude,  and  originating  in  highlands 
at  no  great  distance  from  the  lake.  These  high- 
lands which  have  been  visible  with  the  naked  *  ye,ap- 
pear  from  inspection  with  a  glass,  to  consist  of  rug- 
ged  peaks  of  granite.  Off  the  Huron  rsver,  at  the  dis- 
tance of  five  or  six  miles  in  the  lake,  lie  the  pictur- 
esque cluster  of  Huron  Islands.  They  appear  to  be 
high,  rocky,  and  barren,  with  some  trees.  Among  the 


i5a 

shews  it  to  have  assumed  that  position  subsequently 
to  the  upheaving  of  the  granite.  Its  horizontality 
is  perfectly  preserved  even  to  the  immediate  point 
of  contact,  which  is  laid  bare  to  the  view.  A 
mutual  decomposition  for  a  courle  of  inches,  into 
each  rock  has  taken  place  Dipping  under  the  sand 
stone,  the  granite  again  rises  on  the  contiguous  coast 
in  high,  rough,  and  broken  hills.  All  thi*  is  hand- 
somely disclosed  by  a  natural  transverse  section  of 
the  country,  upon  the  rocky  shore  of  the  lake,  and 
the  peninsula,  connecting  it  with  Granite  Point. 
This  will  give  to  the  annexed  view,  (Plate  V.)  a  va- 
lue which  geological  sections,  and  suppositional 
charts,  it  must  be  conceded,  too  often  lack.  The 
entire  width  of  the  point  may  be  estimated  at  half  a 
mile,  and  that  of  the  neck  of  land  connecting  it  with 
the  shore  at  two  hui  dred  yards.  A  sandy  alluvion 
rests  upon  the  whole,  covered  with  yellow  pine, 
{pinus  resinosa.)  As  to  the  geological  age  oi  the  sand 
stone,  I  possess  no  means  of  forming  a  decisive 
opinion.  It  consists  of  grains  of  quart/  or  sand,  unit- 
ed by  a  calcareous  cement,  and  coloured  by  the 
red  oxyd  of  iron.  Its  colour  is  a  brick  red,  and  it 
possesses  the  compactness  and  grain  of  freestone. 
In  some  places  it  imbeds  pebbles  of  quartz  of  the 
size  of  a  pigeon's  egg,  together  with  rounded  masses 
of  hornblende  and  other  rocks,  and  it  then  resem- 
bles the  pudding  stone.  It  has  no  imbedded  re- 
lics of  the  animal  or  vegetable  kingdom,  so  far  as 
observed,  but  this  is  not  always  conclusive  of  the 
age  of  a  rock  viewed  at  a  give  ?  point,  for  it  is  known 
thai  these  relics  are  never  uniformly  distributed 
throughout  the  substance  of  rocks,  even  of  the  new- 


\  I 


161 


objects  surrounding  our  encampment,  an  Indian 
grave,  near  the  mouth  of  the  Huron  river,  excited 
our  curiosity.  It  was  paled  in  with  pine  saplings, 
sharpened  at  the  top,  and  regularly  inclosing  it  in 
the  form  of  a  parrallelogram.  A  covering  of  bark 
bent  over  small  poles  in  the  form  of  a  roof,  secured 
the  grave  from  the  effects  of  the  weather,  and  a 
blazed  stake  at  one  end,  denoted  the  head.  Be- 
tween this  stake  and  the  grave,  a  smoothly  cut  piece 
of  cedar  wood  with  several  Indian  devices,  served 
the  purposes  of  a  monumental  record,  upon  which 
the  figure  of  a  bear  denoted  either  the  name  of  the 
deceased  chief,  or  the  tribe  to  which  he  belonged. 
Seven  red  marks  were  interpreted  to  signify  that  he 
had  been  seven  times  in  battle.  Other  marks  were  not 
understood.  It  is  probable,  however,  that  they  were 
commemorative  of  some  of  the  most  striking  events 
of  his  life,  which  we  are  led  to  conclude,  from  these 
extraordinary  marks  of  respect,  had  been  devoted 
to  the  service  of  his  tribe,  or  distinguished  for  some 
extraordinary  achievements  in  hunting.  This  grave 
is  situated  on  a  sandy  plain,  which  extends  for  many 
miles  to  the  west  of  the  Huron,  and  is  covered  prin- 
cipally with  a  growth  of  yellow  pine.  Among  the 
shrubs  and  plants,  the  pyrola  rotundifolia,  or  com- 
mon winter  green,  is  very  abundant,  and  we  here  first 
noticed  a  creeping  plant  called  kinni-kinick  by  the 
Indians,  which  is  used  as  a  substitute  for  tobacco. 
This  plant  appears  to  have  escaped  the  notice  of 
the  indefatigable  Pursh,  nor  do  I  find  a; )y  description 
of  it  in  Micheaux,  or  Eaton.  It  is  a  creeping  ever- 
green with  an  ovate  leaf,  of  a  deep  green  colour,  and 
velvet-like  appearance,  and  is  common  to  sandy 
soils.     I  suspect  it  to  be  a  new  variety  of  chiniaphila* 

21 


IG2 

The  Indians  prepare  it  by  drying  the  leaf  over  a 
moderate  fire,  and  bruising  it  between  the  fingers  so 
that  it,  in  some  degree,  resembles  cut  tobacco.  In 
this  state  it  is  smoked,  and  is  very  mild  and  pleas- 
ant. They,  however,  prefer  mixing  it  with  a  portion 
of  the  common  tobacco,  {nicotiana  tahacuni)  or  per- 
haps ii  is  done  with  a  view  to  economy.  As  the  kin- 
nikinick  only  flourishes  on  sandy  grounds,  it  is  not 
always  to  be  procured,  in  which  case  they  employ 
other  substances,  the  most  common  of  which  is  the 
bark  scraped  off  the  small  red  twigs  of  the  acer  spi- 
catuiii  or  maple  bush.  Certain  species  of  willows 
are  also  resorted  to. 

XXXII.  Day. — (June  24th.) — From  Huron  river  it 
is  eighteen  miles  to  Keweena  Point,  which  extends- 
forty  five  miles  into  the  lake,  and  is  by  far  the  u:ost 
striking  feature  in  the  topography  of  the  southern 
shore  of  Lake  Superior.  It  has  sometimes  been  con- 
founded by  geographers  and  travellers  with  PointChe- 
goimegon,  which  is  a  hundred  and  thirty  miles  further 
west,  and  the  latter  name  loosely  applied  to  either 
Point.  Among  those  who  have  fallen  into  this  er- 
ror is  Carver,  who  describes  the  copper  mine,  or 
Ontonagon  river- as  railing  into  the  lake  a  hundred 
miles  west  of  Point  Chegoimegon,  (Carver's  Travels 
p.  67  )  whereas  it  is  found  to  be  a  little  more  than 
hall  that  distance,  west  of  Keweena.  Henry,  and 
McKenzie,  have  both  drawn  the  proper  distinction. 
In  coasting  around  this  point  it  is  estimated  to  be 
ninety  miles,  but  canoes  shorten  the  journey  by  as- 
cending the  Portage  river,  which  neariy  insulates 
the  point  from  the  main  shore,  and  make  a  port  :ge 
of  less  than  a  mile  into  the  lake  west  of  the  Point.  To 


1G3 

the  east  of  this  point  there  is  a  large  bay  twelve  miles 
wide  by  twenty  in  length,  called  Keweena  bay,  which 
it  is  necessary  to  cross  in   order  to  reach  the  Port- 
age river.     The  route  from  Huron  river,  is  first  six 
miles  west  to  Point  Abbaye,  which  is  the  eastern  cape 
of  Keweena  bay,  then  we  coast  three  leagues  up  the 
eastern  shore,  and  make  a  traverse  of  twelve  miles 
to  the  mouth  of  Portage  river.     This  is  often  a  dan- 
gerous passage  when   the  weather  is  not  perfectly 
settled,  and  was  found  so  in  the  present  instance. 
On  turning  point  Abbaye  we  found  a  fresh  breeze 
blowing  directly  ahead,  but  not  apprehending  any 
increase,  and  anxious  to  make  as  little  delay  as  pos- 
sible, we  progressed  up  the  bay  the  usual  distance, 
and    commenced  the    traverse    without    hesitation. 
When,  however,  only  a  league  from  land,  the  wind 
had  increased  to  a  strong  breeze,which  raised  a  con- 
siderable swell,  and  before  we  were  half  way  across, 
the  bay  presen  ted  a  sheet  of  loam,  and  our  canoes  were 
tossed  about  with  scarcely  the  power  of  controlling 
them.     A  perfect  gale  prevailed,  and  every  moment 
seemed  to  add  to  its  violence.  The  swells  broke  fre- 
quently across  our  canoes,  so  that  one  hand  was  con- 
stantly necessary  to  bail  it  out,  and  we  expected  them 
to  be  broke  in  two  at  every  succeeding  swell.      In 
this  dilemma  it  appeared   almost  equally  hazardous 
to  turn  back,  or  to  progress,  we  were  about  an  equal 
distance  from   either  shore,  with  the  wind  blowing 
directly  ahead  ;  and  the  conductors  of  the  different 
canoes  were  left  to  use  their  own  discretion.    Three, 
out  of  five  canoes   turned  back,  and    reached   the 
shore  in  satety,  with  some  injury  to  the  canoes.  The 
other  two,  consisting  of  the  Governor's  and  that  un= 


164 

der the  command  of  Lieutenant  TVlackay,  to  which  I 
was  attached,  after  an  exertion  which  exhausted  the 
strength  of  every  person  on  board,  reached  the 
mouth  of  Portage  river,  and  encamped  upon  the 
beach  before  sun  down.     Distance  30  miles. 

XXXIII.  Day. — (June  2.r)th.) — The  canoes  which 
were  driven  back  by  the  winds  yesterday,  joined  us 
this  morning  at  seven  o'clock,  when  we  commenced 
the  ascent  of  the  Portage  river.  This  is  a  stream  of 
50  yards  wide,  with  a  good  depth  of  water.  At  the 
distance  of  six  miles  it  expands  into  a  lake  which  is 
twelve  miles  long,  and  from  two  to  four  in  width, 
narrowing  to  about  half  a  mile  towards  its  head. 
Here  a  small  stream  enters  which  is  just  wide  enough 
to  admit  a  canoe  to  be  worked  with  paddles.  It  is 
very  serpentine  in  its  course,  and  overhung  with  al- 
ders and  shrubbery,  with  fallen  trees  in  the  channel, 
so  that  the  ascent  is  attended  with  some  difficulty. 
This  stream  is  ascended  six  miles  to  its  source  in  a 
bog  meadow,  during  the  latter  part  of  which  the  ca- 
noes are  dragged  along  through  mud  and  water  in  a 
channel  which  is  only  w  ide  enough  for  that  purpose, 
and  appears  to  have  been  partly  formed  by  the  voy- 
ngeurs  of  former  days.  From  this  to  the  lake,  there 
is  a  portage  of  two  thousand  yards,  which  is  passed 
at  two  Pauses,*  the  first  of  which  is  swampy,  and  the 

*  A  Pause  (pronounced  poze)  is  a  resting:  place  for  the  voya- 
geurs,  and  is  computed  to  be  half  a  mile,  but  this  depends  some- 
what upon  local  circumstances.  If  the  country  is  very  swampy  or 
hilly,  the  pause  is  much  shorter,  and  over  a  fine  level  country  it  is 
often  three  fourths  of  a  mile.  These  stopping  places  are,  however, 
regularly  marked  upon  all  the  travelled  portages  so  that  they  are 
always  spoken  of  in  the  colloquial  language  of  the  region,  as  car- 
rying places  of  one,  two,  or  more  pauses.    Miles  are  wholly  out  of 


IG5 

ether  a  dry  sandy  soil  covered  with  tall  pines.  We 
reached  the  lake  at  an  early  hour  in  the  afternoon, 
and  formed  our  encampment  upon  the  gravelly 
shore.  The  voyageurs  and  soldiers  were  employed 
in  carrying  baggage  until  dark,  but  did  not  complete 
the  labour. 

XXXIV.  Day.— (June  26th.)— The  forenoon  of  this 
day  was  occupied  in  carrying  the  remainder  of  the 
baggage  and  canoes  across  the  portage.  In  the  af- 
ternoon a  head  wind  prevented  our  embarkation. 
While  we  were  sitting  upon  a  bank  of  clean  pebbles 
upon  the  shore,  at  dinner,  and  admiring  the  variety 
of  beautiful  water-worn  pebbles,  I  picked  up  a  frag- 
ment of  beautiful  carnelian,  and  this  gave  the  hint 
for  making  a  search,  in  which  a  great  number  were 
afterwards  found  by  different  individuals  of  the  par- 
ty. I  also  discovered,  while  loitering  along  the  shore, 
a  mass  of  native  copper,  of  nearly  two  pounds  weight, 
attached  to  a  water  worn  mass  of  serpentine  rock, 
and  a  number  of  smaller  pieces.  Indeed  grains  of 
copper  disseminated  through  pebbles  of  serpentine 
rock,  are  very  common  at  this  place,  but  this  metal 
has  not  been  observed  in  association  with  any  other 
species  of  rock.  Radiated  zeolite,  crystallized 
quartz,  chalcedony,  prase,  jasper,  opal,  agate,  and 
sardonyx,  are  also  among  the  minerals  picked  up 
along  this  part  of  the  shore.  Of  the  specimens  of 
carnelian,  I  procured  several  imbedded  in  rolled 
pebbles  of  amygdaloid,  and  in  one  instance,  observ- 
ed this  mineral  imbedded  in  a  large  detached  mass 

\he  question.  Distances  are  altogether  reckoned  by  leagues  or 
pauses.  The  pauses  are  marked  upon  the  carrying  paths  by 
iittle  circular  greens,  where  the  voyageurs  set  down  their  packs. 


166 

of  hornblende  rock.     All  the  rock  along  this  shore, 
however,  which  was  noticed,  in  situ,  is  either  a  red, 
grey,  or  variegated  sand  stone,  which  appears  to  be 
referable   to  one  formation,   colour  being  the   only 
character  in  which  any  difference  could  be  perceiv- 
ed.    The  very  interesting  character  of  the  mineral- 
ogy at  this  place  arrested  the  attention  of  several  of 
our  party,  who  had  before    felt  no  interest  in  this 
study,  and  from  the  spirit  of  imitation,  several  of  the 
soldiers  and  voyageurs  also  turned  collectors  of  spe- 
cimens.     But  a  greater  novelty  ensued,  the  Indians 
attached  to  the  expedition,  on  being  shewn  the  sub- 
stances we  were  anxious  to  procure,  also  undertook 
the  search,  and  with  such  good  success,  that  I  am  in- 
debted to  them  for  some  of  the   finest  specimens  I 
have  Irom  that  locality.  This  is  not  the  first  attention 
they  had  manifested  to  the  subject,  for  on  a  former 
occasion  they  assisted  me  in  chizzeling  organic  relics 
from  the  rock,  and  seemed  to  take  a  delight  in  being 
serviceable  in  that  way,  although  unable  to  compre- 
hend the  object  of  these  collections.      It  was  impos- 
sible to  find  corresponding  words  in  their   language 
to  signiiy  the  benefit  to  be  derived  from  geological 
studies,  although  they  were  anxious  to  be  informed, 
and  made  repeated  enquiries       There  is  a  general 
impression   among  the  Indians  that  we  possess  the 
skill  of  turning  nil  minerals  either  into  money  or  me- 
dicine.     My   attention   to   this  subject  had  struck 
them  upon  the  third  or  fourth  day  after  our  depart- 
ure from  Detroit,   when   they  bestowed  upon  me  a 
name,  at  least  characteristic  of  my  situation  in  the 
expedition.* 

*  Paw-gioa-hecaw-e-ga.  The  destroyer  of  rocks,  or  he  wh» 
employs- himself  among  the  rocks.  It  may  be  considered  as  sy- 
nonymous with  the  word  "  Mineralogist." 


1G7 

XXXV.  Day.— (June  27th.)— We  left  the  head  of 
Keweena   Portage  at  half  past  lour  in  the  morning, 
and  proceeding  with  a  favourable  wind,  entered  the 
mouth  of  the  river  Ontonagon,  at  half  past  three  in 
the  afternoon.    The  distance  is  fifty-one  miles,  which 
gives  an  average  rate  of  travelling  of  five  miles  per 
hour.     In  the  intermediate  space,  we  successively 
passed  the  Little  Salmon  Trout  and  Graverod's  ri- 
vers,— La  Riviere  au  Mesiere,  and  Firesteel  river, 
all  streams  of  secondary  size,  and  not  capable  of 
being  ascended  any  considerable  distance  with  ca- 
noes.    The  shore  is  generally  sandy  alluvion,  upon 
which  pines,  spruce,  and  hemlock  predominate.     At 
a  distance  back  a  ridge  of  highlands  is  visible.    The 
entire  distance  from  the  Sault  de  St.  Marie,  is  one 
hundred  and  eight  leagues,  which  we  have  been  ten 
days  occupied  in  travelling,  including  a  detention  of 
three.     We  have,  therefore,  made  an  average  pro- 
gress of  forty-six  miles  per  day,  a  speed,  which  our 
voyageurs  tell  us,  is  seldom  equalled  in  passing  over 
the  same   route.     During  this  time,  we  have  had 
rain,   with  violent  wind,  three    days, — clear,   with 
moderate   wind,  five    days, — and    variable,    (calm, 
misty,  cloudy,  windy,)  three  days.     The  highest  de- 
gree of  heat  during  the  same  period   has  been  83°, 
and  the  mean  temperature,  from  sun  rise  to  sun  set, 
66°.*     The  transitions  of  temperature   have   often 
been  sudden,  and  the  heat,  during  the  middle  of  the 
day,  (from  eleven  to  four)  generally  severe,  and  some- 
times almost  insupportable      Dense  fogs  have  pre- 
vailed   during  the  morning,   and  in  one  or  two  in- 
stances, mists  have  been  observed  during  the  day. 

*  See  the  Meteorological  Table  on  the  succeeding  page 


ibC 


Gusts  of  wind,  arising  with  a  momentary  warning; 
have  often  driven  us  hastily  ashore ;  and  the  whole 


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169 

route  may  be  characterized  as  stormy,  and  yet  we 
are  told  this  is  one  of  the  most  favourable  months 
for  performing  the  journey.  In  the  autumn  it  is  sel- 
dom attempted.  The  winds,  which  generally  pre- 
vail from  the  northwest,  expose  the  southern  shore 
to  the  fury  of  continual  storms.  The  Canadian  shore 
is  more  pacific,  being  sheltered  by  its  elevation,  and 
the  voyage  on  that  side  is,  at  all  seasons,  less  liable 
to  accidents  and  delays.  The  following  table  of 
distances  may  be  found  useful  to  future  travellers. 
It  is  compiled  from  the  estimates  of  the  voyageurs 
and  traders,  as  generally  agreed  upon,  but  I  have 
reduced  their  mode  of  reckoning  by  French  leagues, 
into  miles,  and  introduced  some  corrections  that  ap- 
peared necessary. 


Of  the  Stationary  Distances  between  Michilimackinac   and  the 
River  Ontonagon. 


Miles.    1 

'ot.  Miles, 

From  Michilimackinac  to  Delour, 

- 

40 

Thence  to  the  Sault  de  St.  Marie, 

- 

45 

85 

Point  aux  Pins, 

- 

6 

91 

Point  Iroquois,  at  the  entrance  into  Lake  Si 

iperior, 

9 

100 

Tonquainenon  River, 

- 

15 

US 

Shelldrake  River, 

- 

9 

124 

White-Fish  Point, 

- 

9 

133 

Two- Hearted  River, 

- 

24 

157 

Grande  Marrais,  and  commencement  of  Grande 

Sables, 

- 

21 

178 

La  Point  la  Grande  Sables, 

- 

9 

187 

Pictured  Rocks,  (La  Porta ille,) 

- 

12 

199 

Doric  Rock,  and  Miner's  River, 

• 

6 

205 

Grande  Island, 

• 

12 

217 

Riv^r  aux  Trains, 

- 

9 

226 

Isle  aux  Trains, 

- 

3 

229 

Laughing-Fish  River, 

• 

0 

235- 

22 

170 

Miles.    Tot.  Miles. 

Chocolate  River,                                               -  15     250 

Dead  River,  (In  Presque  Isle  Bay,j                 -  6  256 

Granite  Point,                                                      -  6  262 

Garlic  River,                                                       -  9  271 

St.  John's  River,                                                -  15  286 

Salmon-Trout,  or  Burnt  River,                         -  12  298 

Pine  River,                                                           -  6  304 

Huron  River:  (Huron  Islands  lie  off  this  River,)  9  813 

Point  Abhaye,  (east  Cape  of  Kevveena  Bay,)  -  6  319 

Mouth  of  Portage  River,                                    -  21  340 

Head  of  Portage  River,  (through  Keweena  Lake,)  24  364 

Lake  Superior,  at  the  head  of  the  Portage,      -  1  365 

Little  Salmon-Trout  River,                                 -  9  374 

Graverod's  River,  (small,  with  flat  rocks  at  its  mouth,)  6  380 

Riviere  au  Misiere,                                             -  12  392 

Firesteel  River,                                                 -  18  410 

Ontonagon,  or,  Copper  Mine  River,                -  6  416 


CHAP.  VI. 


VISIT  TO  THE  COPPER  MINES. 


XXXV.  Day.— (Awe  27th.) 

A  HE  river  Ontonagon,  (or  'Tenaugon,  as  it  is  fre- 
quently pronounced,)  enters  the  lake  in  north  latitude 
46°  52'  2",  as  determined  by  Capt.  Douglass,  and  is 
one  of  the  largest  of  thirty  rivers  which  are  tributary  to 
Lake  Superior  on  its  southern  shore.  It  is  estimated 
to  be  a  hundred  and  twenty  miles  long,  and  has  a 
width  of  two  hundred  yards,  with  eight  feet  depth 
at  its  mouth.  Indians  say  they  generally  walk  to  its 
head  in  three  or  four  days,  but  on  account  of  nume- 
rous rapids,  it  is  only  ascended  in  canoes  about 
thirty-six  miles,  and  a  portage  then  made  to  its 
source,  which  is  in  a  small  lake  called  Vieux  Desert. 
This  lake  has  also  an  outlet  into  the  Menomonic 
river  of  Green  Bay,  and  another  into  the  Chippeway 
river  of  the  Mississippi,  by  means  of  which  the  coun- 
try is  traversed  in  canoes  by  the  traders  and  Indians. 
The  lands  along  thi,«  river  are  generally  rough  and 
mountainous,  until  within  three  or  four  leagues  of 
its  mouth.  Its  waters  have  a  reddish  colour,  like 
those  of  the  Arkansas,  and  are  moderately  turbid  ; 
among  its  forest  trees  pine  and  hemlock  predomi- 
nate, but  its  most  remarkable  character  is  the  cop- 
per, which  is  found  along  its  banks.     This  has  been 


172 

known  from  the  earliest  times,  and  is  noticed  by  all 
the  travellers  of  the  region.  La  Hontan,  Charle- 
voix, Henry,  Carver,  and  McKenzie,  have  success- 
ively published  ac(ounts  of  it,  which  have  served  at 
various  periods,  to  arrest  the  public  attention,  and 
to  confer  a  notoriety  upon  the  country,  which  it  had 
otherwise  certainly  lacked.  But  amid  a  great  ma- 
ny surmises  respecting  the  extent  of  the  mines,  very 
little  iias  been  with  certainty  known.  To  ascertain 
how  far  these  accounts  are  founded  in  truth,  and  to 
examine  the  mineralogy  of  the  adjacent  region,  was 
among  the  primary  objects  of  the  present  expedition, 
and  on  reaching  the  mouth  of  the  river,  the  Govern- 
or determined  to  loose  no  time  in  exploring  it.  It 
was  past  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  when  we 
entered  the  mouth*  of  the  river.  The  expedition  was 
immediately  encamped,  and  Indian  guides  procured, 
at  the  neighbouring  village,  and  at  six  o'clock,  we  pro- 
ceeded in  two  light  canoes  up  the  river,  leaving  the 
greater  part  of  our  force  encamped  at  the  mouth. 
Our  party  in  this  excursion,  consisted  of  Gov.  Cass,  Dr. 
Wolcott,Capt.  Douglass, Lieutenant  l\iackay, Mr. Do- 
ty, and  myself,  with  a  sufficient  number  of  engages  to 
conduct  our  canoes,  and  four  Chippeway  guides. 
A  broad  river,  with  a  gentle  current, — winding 
course,  and  heavy  wooded  banks,  with  the  dark  green 
foliage  overshadowing  the  water,  rendered  the  first 
part  of  the  tour  delightful.  At  the  distance  of  four 
miles  we  reached  a  Sturgeon  fishery,  which  the  In- 
dians have  established  in  the  river  by  means  of  a 
wier  extending  from  bank  to  bank.  This  wier  is 
constructed  of  saplings  and  small  trees,  sharpened 
and  drove  into  the  clayey  bottom  of  the  river,  with 
an  inclination    down  stream,    and  supported    by 


173 

crotched  stakes  bracing  against  the  current.   Against 
the  sides  of  these  inclined    stakes,  long  poles  are 
placed  horizontally,  and  secured  by  hickory  withes, 
in  such  a  manner  as  to  afford  the  Indians  a  passage 
from  one  end  to  the  other,  and  at  the  same  time  al- 
low them  to  sit  and  fish  upon  any  part  of  it.     The 
sturgeon  are  caught  with  an  iron  hook,  fixed  at  the 
end  of  a  long  slender  pole,  which  the  Indian,  setting 
on  the  wier  holds   to  the  bottom  of  the  river,   and 
when  he  feels  the  fish  pressing  against  the  slender 
pole,  jerks  it  up  with  a  sudden  and  very  dexterous 
motion,  and  seldom  fails  to  bring  up  the  sturgeon. 
On  one  side  of  the  wier,  an  opening  is  left  for  the  fish 
to  pass  up,  which  they  do  at  this  season  in  vast  num- 
bers, but  in   their  descent  they  are  hurried  by  the 
current  against  the  hooks  of  the  savages,   who  are 
thickly  planted  on  every  part  of  the  wier.     The  num- 
ber of  sturgeon   caught  at  this  place  is  astonishing, 
and  the  Indians  rely  almost  entirely  upon  this  fishery 
for  a  subsistence.  What  is  not  wanted  for  immediate 
consumption,  is  cut  into  thin   slices   and  dried  or 
smoked.      Canoes   pass  up  through  the  opening  left 
for  the  sturgeon.     Five  or  six  Indians  were  employ- 
ed in  fishing  at  the  time  we  passed  through,  and  we 
stopped  some  time  to  observe  the  sport,  and  had  the 
satisfaction  of  seeing   several  brought   up,  one  of 
which  was  presented  to  us.      The  sturgeon  are  ge- 
nerally from  two  feet  to  four  feet  in  length,  and  these 
may  be  considered  as  the  minimum    and   maximum 
size,  as  they  are  seldom  seen  smaller    than  the  for- 
mer, or  larger  than  the  latter.      They  appear  to  me 
to  be  of  the  same  species  as   the  small  sharp  nosed 
sturgeon  of  the    Hudson ;  the  acipcnser  oxyrinchus  of 
Mitchill     This  fishery  is  of  great  importance  to  the 


174 

Indians  of  the  region,  and  appears  <o  Lave  been 
known  to  them  from  the  earliest  times,  and  has  been 
constantly  resorted  to  without  any  apparent  diminu- 
tion in  the  quantity  taken.  Henry  says  in  1 765,  "  that 
a  months  subsistence  for  a  regiment,  could  have  been 
taken  in  a  fejv  hours  time."  There  is  a  rapid  at 
the  spot  fixed  upon  for  the  fishery,  so  that  the  water 
is  not  over  four  feet  deep.  We  encamped  two  miles 
above  on  a  sand  bar.  The  musquitoes  here  gave 
us  great  annoyance. 

XXXVT.  Day—  {June  28^.)— We  embarked  at 
four  o'clock  in  the  morning.  ,The  river  is  bordered 
with  a  rich  alluvion  covered  with  a  heavy  forest  of 
maple,  elm,  and  walnut,  and  with  a  luxuriant  growth 
of  vines  and  underbrush.  At  the  distance  often  or 
twelve  miles  from  the  lake,  a  chain  of  highlands 
shuts  in  upon  each  side  of  the  river,  cutting  off  the 
bottom  lands  of  the  lake,  and  increasing  in  altitude 
as  we  ascend.  Here  also  the  river  becomes  nar- 
rower and  has  many  rapids.  At  seven  o'clock  our 
guides  stopped  the  canoes,  and  told  us  that  the  riv- 
er above  that  place,  had  a  great  many  bad  rapids 
which  it  would  be  very  difficult  to  ascend  with  all 
the  men  in  the  canoes,  and  that  by  landing  there,  we 
might  proceed  by  a  near  route  through  the  woods, 
and  reach  the  mines  much  sooner  than  the  canoes 
could  by  water.  Accordingly  eight  of  the  party,  in- 
cluding myself,  determined  to  proceed  that  way, 
while  the  Governor  with  the  canoes,  now  lightened  of 
half  their  burden,  went  up  the  river  to  meet  us  at  the 
mines.  We  were  accompanied  by  two  Indians  as 
guides,  who  led  us  over  lofty  ridges,  gulfs,  and  ra- 
vines, covered  with  brush  or  shattered  rocks,  for  a 


175 

distance  of  fifteen  miles,  when  we  fell  into  an  Indian 
path  leading  to  the  copper.  Here  our  guides  sat 
down  to  await  the  arrival  of  the  Governor  and  party, 
who  were  to  pass  that  way.  VVe  had  thus  far  fol- 
lowed them  with  incredible  fatigue,  owing  to  the 
swiftness  of  their  travelling,  the  roughness  of  the 
wav,  and  the  extreme  heat  of  the  weather. 

"  Straining  each  sinew  to  ascend, 

"  Foot,  hand,  and  knee,  their  aid  must  lend  ; 

"  Now  to  the  oak's  warp'd  roots  we  cling-, 

"  Now  trust  our  weight  to  the  curl'd  vine's  string, 

{'  Then  like  the  wild  goat  must  we  dare 

il  An  unsupported  leap  in  air." — Scott. 

It  was  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  when  we  arrived 
at  this  path,  and  the  thermometer  stood  at  90°  under 
the  dark  shade  of  the  forest.  We  had  not  been  seat- 
ed a  great  while,  when  the  other  party  approached, 
and  we  continued  our  way  to  the  mines ;  but  the  Gov- 
ernor was  so  much  exhausted  by  clambering  up  the 
hills,  which  skirt  die  river,  that  he  was  compelled 
to  return  to  the  canoes.  We  found  the  remainder  of 
the  way,  (about  six  miles,)  no  less  sterile,  mountain- 
ous, or  fatiguing ;  and  reached  the  great  mass  of 
copper,  the  chief  object  of  our  excursion,  atari  early 
hour  in  the  afternoon.  It  lies  on  the  edge  of  the  riv- 
er directly  opposite  an  island,  and  at  the  foot  a  lofty 
clay  bluff,  the  face  of  which  appears,  at  a  former  pe- 
riod, to  have  slipped  into  the  river,  carrying  with 
it  detached  blocks  and  rounded  masses  of  granite, 
hornblende,  and  other  rock,  and  with  them,  the  mass 
of  copper  in  question.  The  first  feeling  was  that  of 
disappointment.  It  has  been  greatly  overrated  by 
former  travellers,  both  as  to  size  and  mineralogical 
character,  but  is  nevertheless,  a  remarkable  mass 


J76 

of  copper,  and  well  worthy  a  visit  from  the  traveller 
who  is  passing  through  the  region.  "  The  copper, 
which  is  in  a  pure  and  malleable  state,  lies  in  con- 
nexion with  a  body  of  serpentine  rock,  the  face  of 
which  it  almost  completely  overlays,  and  is  also  dis- 
seminated in  masses,  and  grains,  throughout  the  sub- 
stance of  the  rock.  The  surface  of  the  metal,  unlike 
most  oxydable  metals,  which  have  suffered  a  long 
exposure  to  the  atmosphere,  presents  a  metallic  bril- 
liancy ;  which  is  attributable  either  to  an  alloy  of 
the  precious  metals,  or  to  the  action  of  the  river, 
which  during  its  semi-annual  floods,  carries  down 
large  quantities  of  sand  and  other  alluvial  matter, 
that  may  serve  to  abrade  its  surface,  and  keep  it 
bright.  The  shape  of  the  rock  is  very  irregular — 
its  greatest  length  is  three  feet  eight  inches — its 
greatest  breadth  three  feet  four  inches,  and  it  may 
altogether  contain  eleven  cubic  feet.  In  size,  it  con- 
siderably  exceeds  the  great  mass  of  native  iron  found 
some  years  ago  upon  the  banks  of  Red  River,  in 
Louisiana,  and  now  deposited  among  the  collections 
of  the  New-York  Historical  Society,*  but  on  account 
of  the  admixture  of  rocky  matter,  is  inferior  in  weight. 
Henry,  who  visited  it  in  1766,  estimates  its  weight  at 
five  tons  ;  but  after  examining  it  with  scrupulous  at- 
tention, I  do  not  think  the  weight  of  metallic  copper 
m  the  rock  exceeds  iiieniij-two  hundred  pounds.  The 
quantity  may,  however,  have  been  much  diminished 
since  its  first  discovery,  and  the  marks  of  chisels  and 
axes  upon  it,  with  the  broken  tools  lying  around, 
prove  that  portions  have  been  cut  off,  and  carried 
away.  The  author  just  quoted  observes,  'that  such 
was  its  pure  and  malleable  state  that  with  an  axe  he 

*  See  Bruce's  JMineralocrical  Journal. 


177 

Was  able  to  cut  off  a  portion  weighing  a  hundred 
pounds."  Notwithstanding  this  reduction  it  may 
still  be  considered  one  of  the  largest  and  most  re- 
markable bodies  of  native  copper  upon  the  globe, 
and  is,  so  far  as  my  reading  extends,  only  exceeded 
by  a  specimen  found  in  a  valley  in  Brazil,  weighing 
2G66  Portuguese  pounds.*  Viewed  merely  as  a  sub- 
ject for  scientific  speculation,  it  presents  the  most 
interesting  considerations  and  must  be  regarded  by 
the  geologist  as  affording  illustrative  proofs  of  an 
important  character.  Its  connexion  with  a  rock 
which  is  foreign  to  the  immediate  section  of  country 
where  it  lies,  indicates  a  removal  from  its  original 
bed,  while  the  intimate  connexion  of  the  metal  and 
matrix,  and  the  complete  envelopement  of  individual 
masses  of  the  copper  by  the  rock,  point  to  a  common 
and  contemporaneous  origin,  whether  that  be  refer- 
able to  the  agency  of  caloric  or  water.  This  conclu- 
sion admits  of  an  obvious  and  important  application 
to  the  extensive  strata  of  serpentine,  and  other  mag- 
nesian  rocks,  found  in  various  parts  of  the  globe  !'  "t 

The  accompanying  view,  (Plate  VI,)  is  taken 
from  a  point  below  the  mass  of  copper,  looking  up 
the  river  On  each  side  appear  a  lofty  range  of  earthy 
bluffs,  which  have  caved  into  the  river,  throwing 
down  their  trees  and  imbedded  rocks  into  heaps  of 
ruins  along  the  margin  of  the  stream,  and  exposing 
their  bare  surfaces  to  view.  These  bluffs  may  be 
considered  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  in  perpendicu- 
lar height,  and  are  capped  by  a  forest  of  pine, 
hemlock,   cedar,  and    oak.      On  the    right   hand, 

*  Philips'  Mineralogy. 

f  Extract  from  my  Report  to  the  Secretary  at  War,  on  the  cop- 
per mines  of  Lake  Superior.  See  the  American  Journal  of  Science 
and  the  Arts,  Edited  by  Professor  Silliman.  Ji.R.  S. 

23 


partly  immersed  in  water,  reposes  tire  coppe? 
rock  :  op  the  left  the  Utile  island  of  cedars  divides 
the  river  into  two  channels,  and  the  small  depth  arid 
rapidity  of  the  water  is  shewn  by  the  innumerable 
rocks  which  project  above  its  surface,  from  shore  to 
shore.  The  masses  of  fallen  earth. — the  blasted  trees., 
which  either  lie  prostrate  at  the  foot  of  the  bluffs, 
or  hang  in  a  threatening  posture  above, — the  eleva- 
tion of  the  banks, — -the  rapidity  and  noise  of  the 
stream,  present  such  a  mixed  character  of  wild- 
ness,  ruin,  and  sterility,  as  to  render  it  one  of  the 
most  rugged  viev\s  in  nature. 

"  It  seem'd  the  mountain,  rent  and  riven, 

u  A  channel  for  the  stream  had  given  ; 

"  So  high  the  cliff  of  sandstone  gray, 

"  Hung  beetling  o'er  the  torrents  way, 

"  Where  he  who  winds  'twixt  rock  and  wave, 

i(  May  bear  the  headlong  torrent  rave  ; 

<c  May  view  her  chafe  her  waves  to  spra}\ 

"  O'er  every  rock  that  bars  her  way, 

"  Till  foam  globes  o'er  her  eddies  glide, 

"  Thick  as  the  schemes  of  human  pride 

';  That  down  life's  current  drive  amain, 

"  As  frail,  as  frothy,  and  as  vain."        Scott. 

One  cannot  help  fancying  that  he  has  gone  to  the 
ends  of  the  earth,  and  beyond  the  boundaries  ap- 
pointed for  the  residence  of  man.  Every  object  tells 
us  that  it  is  a  region  alike  unfavourable  to  the  pro- 
due  ions  of  the  animal  and  vegetable  kingdom;  and 
we  shudder  in  casting  our  eyes  over  the  frightful 
wreck  of  trees,  and  the  confused  groups  of  falling-in 
banks  and  shattered  stones.  Yet  we  have  only  to 
ascend  these  bluffs  to  behold  hills  more  rugged  and 
elevated  ;  and  d.,rk  hemlock  forests,  and  yawning 
gulfs  more  dreary,  and  more  forbidding  to  the  eye. 
Such  is  the  frightful  region  through  which,  for  a 


179 

distance  of  twenty  miles,  we  followed  our  Indian 
guides  to   reach  this   unfrequented  spot,  in  which 
there  is  nothing  to  compensate  the  toil  of  the  jour- 
ney but  its  geological  character,  and  mineral  pro- 
ductions.    Indeed   these  are  traits  which  are  gene- 
rally found  to  increase  in  interest,  in  proportion  to 
the  increased  sterility  of  the  soil,  and  the  impover- 
ished growth  of  vegetable  life.     And  here  also  the 
effect  of  climate  upon  the  productions  of  nature,  pre- 
sents a  remarkable  exception.     Trees  and   plants 
of  particular  species,   are   only  found  to  vegetate 
in  certain  latitudes,  and  to  be  confined  to  particular 
soils,  whose  chemical  constituents  are  congenial  to 
their  growth.     Every  modification  of  climate  has  its 
peculiar  plants  and  predominating  trees.     Animals 
also,  particularly  the  herbiferous  species,  have,  in 
all  countries,  more  or  less  confined  themselves  with- 
in the  cycle  of  certain   species  of  vegetable   pro- 
ductions,— to  the  grasses  and  buds  of  trees  to  which 
they   are   particularly  attached, — or,  they   are  im- 
pelled  in   the   search  of  herbs    necessary  to  their 
health  and  vigour.    But  the  inorganic  masses  of  the 
earth  are  confined  to  no  particular  latitudes,  and 
are   uniform   in    their  composition.     The  granites, 
the  limestones,  the  spars,  and   the  metals,  exhibit 
the    same    characters,   whether    picked    up    with- 
in the  arctic  circle,  or  under  the  torrid  zone.     The 
mineralogist  discovers  the  same  external  signs  and 
appearances,  and  the  chemist  finds  the  same  mine- 
ral   constituents    combined    in    the  same  propor- 
tions.    It    has,  indeed,   been  asserted,  that  metals 
are    confined   to  particular    latitudes, — that   gold 
and  silver,  and  precious  stones,  are  productions  pe- 
culiar to  the  southern  hemisphere  j    but  there  is 


180 

nothing  in  the  theories  of  the  formation  of  mine- 
ral strata,  the  laws  of  crystallization,  or  in  the 
known  influence  of  climates  upon  mineral  bodies, 
to  justify  such  a  conclusion ; — there  is  no  reason 
that  can  be  drawn  from  philosophical  investigations 
to  prove  that  these  substances  may  not  be  abundant- 
ly tound  in  the  climates  of  the  north,  even  upon  the 
banks  of  the  frozen  ocean.  The  fact  thatthese  produc- 
tions are  more  abundantly  found  within  the  higher  la- 
titudes, does  not  appear  capable  of  explanation,  on  a 
supposed  effect  of  climate,  but  is  probably  wholly 
independent  of  that  circumstance.  On  the  contrary, 
there  is  reason  to  presume  that  the  precious  metals 
may  be  found  in  the  northern  regions  of  the  Ameri- 
can continent.  Nothing  appears  more  improbable 
than  that  the  veins  of  silver  ore,  which  are  so  abun- 
dant in  Mexico,  and  die  province  of  Texas,  are 
checked  in  their  progress  northward  into  Arkansaw 
and  Missouri,  by  the  effect  of  climate.  This  metal 
is  known  to  be  found  in  association  only  with  certain 
limestones,  schists,  arid  other  rocks,  and  where  these 
cease,  is  in  vain  to  be  sought.  Other  metals  and 
minerals  have  their  particular  associations,  serving 
as  a  geognostic  matrix,  and  hence  rock  strata  may  be 
considered  as  indexes  to  particular  metals,  minerals, 
and  ores;  and  the  geologist  is  thus  enabled  to  predict, 
with  considerable  certainty,  from  the  examination 
of  the  exterior  of  a  country,  whether  it  is  metallife- 
rous, or  not.  Until  such  examinations  are  made, 
we  must  be  permitted  to  say,  that  there  does  not  ap- 
pear any  thing  to  forbid  the  hope  of  finding  the  pre- 
cious metals  in  the  regions  of  the  northwest,  while 
there  are  several  facts  to  prove  that  it  is  highly  pro- 
bable.    It  is  here  that  the  stinted  growth  of  vegeta- 


181 

lion,  and  the  rocky  and  elevated  nature  of  the  coun- 
try, leads  us  to  look  for  those  treasures  in  the  mineral 
kingdom  which  nature  has  denied  in  soil  and  cli- 
mate. In  various  places  have  lead,  iron,  and  cop- 
per already  been  discovered,  and  the  beauty  of  the 
carnelian,  the  agates,  and  the  chalcedonies,  picked 
up  alonur  the  shores  of  Lake  Superior,  prove  that 
the  hardy  regions  of  the  north  are  not  unfavourable 
to  the  production  of  mineral  gems.  But  it  is  chiefly, 
so  far  as  actually  known,  in  the  abundance  of  copper 
that  the  mineralogy  of  this  region  claims  particular 
attention,  and  the  more  so,  as  it  is  found  in  the  na- 
tive form.  Pieces  of  this  metal  have  been  discover- 
ed in  various  parts  of  the  region,  from  the  banks  of 
Muddy  river,  in  Illinois,  to  the  mouth  of  the  Cop- 
per-Mine river,  which  enters  the  Frozen  ocean. 
At  the  latter  place,  Mr.  Hearne  found  it  in  his  visit 
to  the  Copper-Mine  river,  in  1771,  and  represents  it 
as  in  common  use  for  knives,  trinkets,  &c.  among 
the  Esquimaux,  the  Dog-ribbed,  and  the  Copper- 
Mine  tribes,  who  inhabit  that  inclement  region.*  It 
has  also  been  found  in  various  parts  of  Illinois,  as 
at  Harrison,  and  old  Piora, — at  Dubuques  mines, — 
Winnebago  lake, — on  the  St.  Peter's, — St.  Croix, — 
Sauteur,  and  other  rivers, — but  most  abundantly 
upon  Lake  Superior,  and  particularly  upon  the  ri- 
ver Ontonagon,  where  the  large  mass  which  is  the 
object  of  our  present  visit,  has  long  attracted  atten- 
tion. It  is,  indeed,  notwithstanding  the  exaggerated 
accounts,  a  wonderful  mass,  and  viewed  in  connexion 
with  the  mineral  appearances  of  the  surrounding 
country,  leaves  little  doubt  that  extensive  mines  of 
this  metal  exist  in  the  vicinity.  But  to  explore  it  with 
*  See  Hearne's  Journey  to  the  Northern  Ocean,  p.  172. 


182 

any  degree  of  satisfaction,  a  week  or  a  fortnight 
affords  a  very  inadequate  period,  while  the  extent  of 
the  route  to  be  performed,  and  the  danger  of  so 
large  a  party's  getting  out  of  provisions  in  a  country 
almost  wholly  destitute  of  game,  forbids  even  the 
devotion  of  a  few  days  to  that  object.  Having, 
therefore,  examined  appearances,  and  taken  such 
notes,  and  specimens  of  the  metal,  as  time  and  cir- 
cumstances would  permit,  we  returned  to  our  ca- 
noes, which  had  been  left  at  the  distance  of  six  miles 
below.  On  reaching  the  canoes,  we  were  alarmed 
on  finding  that  Gov.  Cass,  from  whom  we  had  part- 
ed at  the  Indian  path,  at  two  o'clock,  had  not  yet 
reached  the  camp,  nor  any  of  the  attendants  who 
were  with  him, — among  whom  was  one  of  the  In- 
dian guides.  Some  idea  of  the  rugged  nature  of  the 
country  may  be  formed  when  it  is  stated,  that  they 
hod  lost  their  way  in  attempting  to  reach  the  river, 
notwithstanding  that  they  were  only  distant  three 
miles,  and  led  by  an  Indian  acquainted  with  those 
parts  generally.  Night  was  rapidly  closing  around 
us,  and  after  firing  repeated  signal  guns,  and  send- 
ing out  in  all  directions,  nothing  could  be  heard  of 
them.  The  feelings  of  the  party  may  be  imagined 
upon  this  occasion,  seated,  as  we  were,  in  the  midst 
of  one  of  the  most  awful  solitudes,  and  in  a  region 
which  had  impressed  every  individual  with  an  inde- 
scribable feeling,  that  was  manifested  in  a  general 
anxiety  to  depart  from  it.  I  was  perhaps  alone  in 
the  wish  to  continue  our  examinations.  At  length 
the  lost  party  were  discovered  by  a  canoe  sent  up 
the  river,  setting  upon  the  shore,  and  exhausted 
with  fatigue,  and  their  arrival  restored  tranquillity  to 
our  camp. 


183 

XXXVII.  Day.— (June  29th.)— At  five  o'clock  in  the 
morning  we  commenced  our  return.  On  descending 
eight  or  ten  miles,  our  Indian  guides  stopped  on  the 
east  hank  of  the  river,  to  examine  a  bear-fall  that 
had  been  previously  set,  and  were  overjoyed  to 
find  a  large  bear  entrapped.  As  it  was  no  great 
distance  from  the  river,  we  all  landed  to  en- 
joy the  sight.  The  animal  sat  up  on  his  fore  paws- 
facing  us,  the  hinder  paws  being  pressed  to  the 
ground  by  a  heavy  weight  of  logs  which  had  been 
arranged  in  such  a  manner  as  to  allow  the  bear  to 
creep  under,  and  then  by  seizing  the  bait,  had  sprung 
the  trap,  and  he  could  not  extricate  himself,  although, 
with  his  fore  paws,  he  had  demolished  a  part  of  the 
works.  After  viewing  him  for  some  time,  a  ball  was 
fired  through  his  head,  but  it  did  not  kill  him,  the 
bear  kept  his  position,  and  seemed  to  growl  in  defi- 
ance. A  second  ball  was  aimed  at  the  heart,  and  took 
efftct,  but  he  did  not  resign  the  contest  immediate- 
ly, and  was  at  last  despatched  with  an  axe.  As  soon 
as  the  bear  fell,  one  of  the  Indians  walked  up,  and 
addressing  him  by  the  name  of  Muck-wah^  shook 
him  by  the  paw,  with  a  smiling  countenance,  as  if 
be  had  met  with  an  old  acquaintance,  saying,  in  the 
Indian  language,  he  was  sorry  they  had  been  under 
the  necessity  of  killing  him,  and  hoped  the  offence 
would  be  forgiven,  particularly  as  Che-mo-que-inon* 
had  fired  one  of  the  balls.  This  animal  measures  five 
feet  in  length,  and  would  probably  weigh  three  hun- 
dred pounds.  The  head  is  small  and  narrow,  with 
a  long  pointednose,  and  covered  with  glossy  black 

*  This  is  a  general  name  among;  the  Chipppways  for  ihe  Ame- 
ricans. It  signifies  the  (t  Long  Knife."  Sag-a-nosh  is  the  term 
for  the  British. 


184 

hair  all  over  (he  body,  except  some  spots  of  brown- 
ish yellow  upon  the  cheeks  and  throat.  It  appears 
to  ^e  the  common  black  bear  of  naturalists, 
(ursus  niger?)  which  is  frequent  in  the  United  States. 
By  the  joy  which  was  evident  upon  the  counte- 
nances of  the  savages  upon  this  occasion,  it  is  a 
rare  occurrence  among  them  to  kill  a  bear.  But 
perhaps  this  animal  is  never  killed  without  ex- 
ultation, as  it  is  universally  considered  the  no- 
blest object  of  the  chase  Some  difficulty  has 
arisen  among  naturalists  as  to  the  character  of 
this  animal,  which,  although  provided  with  canine 
teeth,  is  supposed  to  subsist  principally  upon 
vegetable  food.  It  is,  however,  certain  that  it  is 
also  carniverous,  and  will  prey  upon  hogs  and  other 
animals  when  pressed  for  food.  The  Indians  say 
that  it  is  very  fond  of  all  sorts  of  nuts,  esculent  roots, 
and  wild  honey,  and  frequently  attacks  their  corn 
fields.  It  will  travel  a  great  way  from  its  den  into 
the  pine  ridges  to  feed  upon  whortle  berries,  and  is 
also  very  fond  of  mulberries,  blackberries,  and  all 
sweet  flavoured  and  spicy  fruits.  They  add,  that  it 
is  only  in  the  utmost  extremity  that  it  takes  hold  of 
animal  food,  and  in  a  region  where  its  favourite 
fruits  are  plenty,  will  pass  by  the  carcass  of  a  deer 
without  touching  it.  On  the  same  account  it  never 
attacks  men,  unless  wounded,  and  too  hotly  pressed, 
when  it  turns  upon  its  pursuers  with  the  fury  of  a 
lion.  On  such  occasions  one  stroke  of  the  paw  is 
sufficient  to  kill  their  stoutest  dogs  The  Indians 
hold  this  animal  in  the  highest  estimation,  not  only 
on  account  of  their  great  fondness  of  its  flesh,  but 
because  there  is  no  part  of  it  which  is  useless.  The 
carcass,  the  skin,  the  claws  and  head,  and  even  the 


185 

intestines,  are  all  turned  to  account.  The  fleshy 
part  of  the  claws  is  considered  a  very  great  delica* 
cy, — the  claws  themselves  are  cut  out,  strung  to- 
gether upon  a  deer's  sinew,  and  worn  as  an  orna- 
ment about  the  neck.  The  oil,  is,  however,  consi- 
dered the  most  valuable  part,  whether  kept  for  use, 
or  for  the  purpose  of  selling  to  the  traders.  They 
rub  their  bodies  with  it  to  protect  themselves  from 
the  bite  of  the  musquitoc  It  has  the  singular  pro- 
perty of  destroying  lice  in  the  hair,  and  if  occasion- 
ally used,  of  preventing  their  appearance  altogether. 
They  also  rub  their  joints  with  it,  believing  with 
the  Romans,  that  it  renders  them  supple.  A  singular 
fact  is  mentioned  by  Pennant,  that  the  female  bear  is 
never  killed  with  young,  and  it  is  explained  on  the 
supposition,  (for  the  fact  admits  of  doubt,)  that  the 
male  possesses  such  an  unnatural  dislike  to  its  off- 
spring, as  to  kill  and  devour  the  cubs.  On  this  ac- 
count, the  female  retires  before  the  period  of  partu- 
rition, into  remote  woods  and  clefts  of  rocks,  and 
does  not  return  until  the  cubs  have  attained  a  cer- 
tain growth. 

In  passing  down  the  river  one  of  the  Indians  had 
promised  to  discover  another  mass  of  copper  near 
the  river,  but  after  landing  and  hunting  sometime, 
pretended  he  could  not  find  it.  An  Indian  after- 
wards brought  us  a  lump  of  copper  weighing  be- 
tween eight  and  nine  pounds,  which  he  said  was 
picked  up  upon  the  banks  of  the  Ontonagon.  This 
specimen  was  covered  with  a  green  crust,  and  not  in 
so  pure  a  state  as  the  great  mass  above.  On  reach- 
ing the  lake  we  found  the  wind  directly  ahead,  and 
were  detained  the  remainder  of  the  day.  In  the  af- 
ternoon a  council  was  held  with  the  Indians,  and 

24 


180 

presents  distributed  among:  them,  and  one  of  the' 
number,  who  appeared  to  merit  it,  constituted  a 
chief,  by  being  invested  with  a  flag  and  silver  me- 
dal. In  the  evening,  they  danced  upon  the  sand  for 
our  amusement.  1  have  already  spoken  of  Indian 
dancing  and  music.  It  is  perhaps  all  we  could  ex- 
pect from  untutored  savages,  but  there  is  nothing 
about  it  which  has  ever  struck  me  as  either  interest- 
ing or  amusing,  and  after  having  seen  these  per- 
formances once  or  twice,  they  become  particularly 
tedious,  and  it  is  a  severe  tax  upon  one's  patience 
to  sit  and  be  compelled,  in  order  to  keep  their  good 
opinions,  to  appear  pleased  with  it. 

XXXVIII.  Day.— (June  30th.)— Detained  by  head 
winds.  There  is  very  little  in  the  appearances  of 
the  country  in  the  vicinity  of  our  encampment,  to 
compensate  for  our  delay.  A  sandy  plain  stretches 
along  the  shore  of  the  lake  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach. 
The  highlands  of  the  Ontonagon  are  visible  towards 
the  south,  and  the  Porcupine  mountains  at  the  distance 
of  thirty  miles  west,  appear  to  rise  out  of  the  lake, 
and  imprint  their  lofty  and  rugged  outlines  upon  the 
distant  clouds.  Towards  the  north  there  is  an  inter- 
minable expanse  of  water,  without  a  solitary  island 
to  variegate  the  view.  Letting  the  eye  fall  upon  the 
immediate  vicinity  of  our  camp,  the  Indian  village 
appears  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river,  and  we  are 
surrounded  on  all  sides  by  a  bed  of  loose  sand, 
which  the  wind  is  continually  drifting  into  heaps. 
There  is  not  a  pebble  upon  the  shore,  nor  a  stra- 
tum of  rock  within  a  dozen  miles.  Occasional 
strata  of  iron  sand,  very  pure  and  black,  are  found. 
An  Indian  brought  me  a  number  of  specimens  of  iron 


187 

ore,  procured  at  Point  Keweena,  near  the  port- 
age, w  here  he  represents  it  to  exist  in  large  quantity. 
The  specimens  consist  of  red  hematite  and  iron  py- 
rites. Both  these  substances  are  said  to  occur 
in  quantity  on  Iron  river,  which  enters  the  lake 
fifteen  miles  west  of  the  Ontonagon.  While  encamp- 
ed here,  pigeons  have  been  very  plenty,  and  vast 
numbers  have  been  killed,  some  with  sticks  and 
stones.  The  Indians  have  also  supplied  us  with  stur- 
geon from  the  fishery,  both  fresh  and  dried,  and  with 
a  pert  of  the  bear  which  they  entrapped,  but  the 
latter,  being  in  poor  order,  and  a  male,  has  not  pos- 
sessed that  flavour  for  which  young  bear's  meat  kil- 
led in  the  proper  season,  is  generally  relished. 

The  weather  since  our  arrival  upon  the  banks  of 
this  river,  has  been  clear  and  warm,  and  during  the 
middle  of  the  day,  oppressively  sultry.  The  wind 
which  blew  fair  from  the  E.  N.  E.  on  our  arrival, 
shifted  to  the  north  west  on  the  following  day,  and 
has  blown  steadily  from  that  point  without  change. 
The  thermometer  stood  at  9 1°  on  the  28th,  at  9  i°  on 
the  29th,  and  at  89°  on  the  30th,  and  the  mean  heat 
as  deduced  from  three  daily  observations  has  been 
80°.  During  the  same  time  the  mean  temperature  of 
the  water  of  Lake  Superior  has  been  6t>°,  and  of  the 
water  of  the  Ontonagon  river  713°.  The  following 
thermometrical  memoranda  made  at  irregular  inter- 
vals, as  circumstances  would  permit,  may  here  be 
added. 

Temperature  of  the  Air. 
June  28th,  at  8  A.  M.  74«— at  1  P.  M.  91°— at  6  P  M.  74o  av.  79° 
"    29th,  at  8  A.  M  79^ — at  i  P.  M.  94°— at  7  P  M.  86°  av.  86° 
"    30th,  at  9  A.  M.  760— at  2  P.  M.  89°— at  8  P.  M.  60°  av  75° 

3)240 

Me&n  temp,  for  three  days  80* 


188 

Water  of  the  Ontonagon  River. 

June  28th,  at  8  A.  M.  69°— at  3  P-  M.  73°— at  6  P.  M.  71°  av.  71* 
"  29th, at  8  A.  M.  68°— at  1  P.  M.  76°— at  7  P.  M.  75°  av.76° 
"    30th,  at  8  A.  M.  74<>—  at  3  P.  M.  flm  av.  72° 


3)219 
Average  temperature  73° 

Water  of  Lalce  Superior. 

June  28th,  at  8  A.  M.  26<>—  at  6  P.  M.  72° av.  67' 

*    29th,  at  8  A  M.  6lo—  at  7  P.  M.  68o av.  74° 

a    30th,  at  8  A.  JM.  60o— at  9  P.  M.  58o a  v.  5')° 

3)200 

Mean  temperature  66| 


CHAP.  VII. 

J  O  U  R  JV  E  F, 

A  ROM  THE  ONTONJIGOJV  RIVER   TO  THE  FOKB  DU  LAC 

XXXIX.  Day.— {July  1st.) 

A  HE  wind  ceased  during  the  night,  and  the  morn- 
ing was  calm,  with  a  dense  fog,  which  rendered  it 
impossible  to  discern  objects  at  the  distance  of  two 
or  three  hundred  yards.  We  left  the  mouth  of  the 
Ontonagon  at  half  past  four  in  the  morning.  In  go- 
ing eight  or  ten  miles  a  favourable  wind  arose  which 
enabled  us  to  proceed  under  sail  for  a  couple  of  hours. 
Fifteen  miles  beyond  the  Ontonagon,  we  passed  the 
mouth  of  Iron  river,  which  is  very  rapid,  and  inter- 
locks with  some  of  the  tributaries  of  the  Ousconsing. 
Iron  ore  and  pyrites  are  said  to  abound  upon  its 
banks.  Five  leagues  beyond,  we  passed  the  Carp 
river,  which  originates  in  the  Porcupine  mountains, 
and  has  a  perpendicular  fall  of  forty  feet,  three  miles 
from  its  mouth  Presque  Isle  river  is  six  miles  further. 
It  is  also  very  rapid  and  not  much  navigated  in  ca- 
noes. Black  river  is  next  passed,  at  the  distance  of 
two  leagues.  It  is  also  rapid,  and  originates  in  the 
broken  lands  south  of  the  Porcupine  mountains. 


190 

Eight  miles  beyond  this,  we  encamped,  having  pro- 
ceeded fifty  miles.  The  shore  of  the  lake  from  the 
Ontonagon  river,  until  we  arrive  off  the  Porcupine 
mountains,  is  sandy,  with  ihe  exception  of  a  ledge  of 
sand  rock  which  appears  a  lew  feet  above  the  water 
at  the  mouth  of  Iron  river,  and  is  inclined  towards 
the  N.  E.  at  an  angle  of  six  or  eight  degrees  On 
passing  by  the  Porcupine  mountains,  the  same  rock, 
(red  sand  stone)  is  visible  along  the  shore,  but  in  a 
position  so  highly  inclined,  as  to  appear  nearly  verti- 
cal. It  dips  under  the  lake  towards  the  north,  and 
appearances  seem  to  indicate  that  it  has  been 
thrown  into  this  position  by  the  upheaving  of  the 
granitic  masses  of  the  Porcupine  mountains,  which 
rise  at  a  very  short  distance  from  the  lake.  These 
mountains  have  a  very  rugged  and  commanding  ap- 
pearance, and  rise  to  a  surprising  height.  We  saw 
them  under  the  influence  of  great  atmospheric  re- 
fraction, from  Kewecna  Portage,  a  distance  of  eighty 
miles.  Captain  Douglass  has  estimated  their  alti- 
tude at  from  one  thousand  eight  hundred  to  two 
thousand  feet  above  Lake  Superior.  His  data  are 
the  distances  at  which  they  are  visible  with  the  na- 
ked eye,  under  different  degrees  of  refraction.  Mr. 
I^arby  says  "  any  object  capable  of  being  seen  upon 
the  curve  of  the  earth's  surface  forty  miles,  must  be 
within  a  trifle  of  one  thousand  one  hundred  feet 
higtu'VrTW  to  Detroit,  p.  175. 

Charlevoix  observes, "  when  a  storm  is  about  to  rise 
on  Lake  Superior,  you  are  advertised  of  it,  two  or 
three  days  previous.  At  first,  you  perceive  a  gen- 
tle murmuring  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  which 
lasts  the  whole  day  without  increasing  in  any  sen- 
sible manner ;  the  day  after  the  Jake  is  covered 


in 

with  pretty  large  waves,  but  without  breaking  ali 
that  day,  so  that  you  may  proceed  without  tear,  and 
even  make  good  way  if  the  wind  is  favourable  ;  but 
on  the  third  day  when  you  are  the  least  thinking  of 
it,  the  lake  becomes  all  on  fire,  the  ocean  in  its 
greatest  rage  is  not  more  tost,  in  which  case  you 
must  take  care  to  be  near  shelter,  to  save  your- 
self. This  you  are  always  sure  to  find  on  the  north 
shore,  whereas  on  the  south  you  are  obliged  to  se- 
cure yourself  the  second  day  at  a  considerable  dis- 
tance from  the  water  side."*  Although  we  are  not 
prepared  to  corroborate  this  remark,  yet  something 
of  the  kind  has  this  day  been  witnessed,  for  notwith- 
standing the  prevalence  of  a  calm  during  the  whole 
day,  with  the  exception  of  about  two  hours  in  the 
morning,  when  the  wind  was  however  light,  the  lake 
towards  evening  has  been  in  a  perfect  rage,  and  we 
effected  a  landing  with  greater  hazard  than  has  yet 
been  encountered.  At  the  same  time  scarce  a 
breath  of  air  was  stirring,  and  the  atmosphere  was 
beautifully  clear. 

XL.  Day. — (July  2d.) — -Thirteen  miles  from  our 
encampment,  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the  Montreal 
river,  which  we  entered,  and  landed  upon  its  banks. 
This  is  a  long  and  rapid  river,  and  is  connected  with 
the  head  waters  of  the  Chippeway  and  Ousconsing. 
About  eight  hundred  yards  above  its  mouth  it  has  a 
fall  of  eighty  or  ninety  feet,  where  the  river  is  pre- 
cipitated over  a  rugged  barrier  of  vertical  rocks,  by 
several  successive  leaps,  the  last  of  which  is  about 
forty  feet  perpendicular.  This  brings  the  stream  on 
a  level  with  Lake  Superior,  which  it  joins  in  a  broad 

#  Charlevoix,  p.  44.  vol.  2. 


102 

deep  stream,  with  reddish  coloured  water.  This* 
view  is  highly  picturesque  as  presented  from  the 
point  of  land  formed  by  the  junction  of  the  river  with 
the  lake.  Notwithstanding  its  rapidity,  and  falls,  it 
is  frequently  ascended  by  the  traders,  and  a  port- 
age of  one  hundred  and  twenty  pauses  commences  at 
its  mouth.  The  southwest  company  have  an  estab- 
lishment on  Lac  du  Flambeau,  which  is  near  the 
head  of  this  river.  Between  the  foot  of  the  falls  and 
the  lake,  the  Indians  have  a  wier  similar  to  that  on 
the  Ontonagon,  for  catching  sturgeon,  and  there  is 
an  Indian  village  a  few  miles  west  of  it.  During  a 
short  stay  here,  we  found  pigeons  very  abundant7 
and  several  were  killed  with  clubs. 

Twelve  miles  beyond  the  Montreal  river,  is  the 
Mauvais  which  is  navigable  a  hundred  miles  in  ca- 
noes, and  takes  its  rise  in  the  OttaWay  Lake.  From 
this  a  portage  is  made  into  branches  of  the  St.  Croix 
and  Chippeway  rivers,  through  a  series  of  small 
lakes,  the  principal  of  which  are  Spear,  Clam,  Sum- 
mer, Pacquayahwan,  and  Lac  du  Coutere,  On  the 
latter  the  southwest  company  have  a  trading  estab- 
lishment. On  the  banks  of  the  Ottaway  lake  the  In- 
dians procure  a  sort  of  red  steatite,  similar  to  that  of 
St.  Peter's,  of  which  they  manufacture  pipes.  Six 
miles  beyond  the  Mauvaise,  is  Point  Che-goi-me- 
gon,  once  the  grand  rendezvous  of  the  Chippeway 
tribe,  but  now  reduced  to  a  few  lodges.  Three 
miles  further  west  is  the  island  of  St.  Michael,  which 
lies  in  the  traverse  across  Chegoimegon  Bay,  where 
M.  Cadotte  has  an  establishment.  This  was  former- 
ly an  important  trading  post  but  is  now  dwindled  to 
nothing.  There  is  a  dwelling  of  logs,  stockaded  in 
the  usual  manner  of  trading  houses,  besides  several 


193 

out  buildings,  and  some  land  in  cultivation.  We 
here  also  found  several  cows  and  horses,  which  have 
been  transported  with  great  labour.  On  this  isl- 
and two  pieces  of  native  copper  were  found  some 
years  ago,  one  of  which  was  a  foot  long,  and  Weigh- 
ed twenty-eight  pounds.  It  is  also  stated  that  a  sil- 
ver mine  exists  on  the  main  shore  southwest  of  the 
island,  but  during  the  short  time  of  our  stay,  we 
could  procure  no  satisfactory  information  on  the  sub- 
ject. The  Indians  appear  very  jealous  of  every  at- 
tempt to  explore  the  mineralogy  of  their  territories, 
and  are  loth  to  communicate  any  information  that 
would  lead  to  a  discovery.  W  e  encamped  seven 
miles  west  of  this  island,  on  the  main  shore. 

The  shore  of  the  lake  during  this  day's  journey 
has  exhibited  some  diversity.  Red  sand  stone,  in  a 
vertical  position,  continues  for  a  few  miles  beyond 
Montreal  river.  It  generally  rises  out  of  the  water 
abruptly,  and  in  some  places,  as  between  Black  and 
Montreal  rivers,  to  a  height  of  eighty  or  a  hundred 
feet.  In  the  interstices  of  the  rock,  the  water  has 
driven  up  pebbles  of  granite,  hornblende,  quartz,  &c. 
A  bank  of  red  clay,  of  twenty  or  thirty  feet  in  depth, 
overlays  the  rock,  covered  with  a  young  growth  of 
birch  and  poplar.  There  are  no  large,  or  apparently 
old  trees,  seen  along  this  part  of  the  coast.  About 
four  miles  beyond  Montreal  river,  the  rock  ceases, 
and  a  sandy  shore  succeeds,  which  continues  to 
Point  Chegoimegon,or  Sandy  Point.  The  Mauvaise 
river  enters  through  this  plain  of  sand.  On  reach- 
ing the  main  shore  west  of  Chegoimegon  Bay,  we 
perceive  a  rough, 'high,  and  broken  region  of  hills, 
consisting  chiefly  of  hornblende  rock.  There  is  a 
sandy  beach  on  the  lake  shore,  and  at  the  distance 

25 


194 

of  from  one  to  live  miles  in  the  lake,  lie  a  cluster  (*( 
wooded  islands,  which  Garver  called  the  Twelve 
Apostles.  There  appears  to  be  fifteen  or  twenty  in 
number,  and  they  present  a  very  beautiful  and  pic- 
turesque groupe. 

XLI.  Day. — (July  3d.) — We  bad  rain  during  the 
night  and  it  continued  until  six  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing, when  we  embarked,  and  proceeded  northwest 
eight  miles  to  Raspberry  river, — then  southwest  six 
miles  to  Sandy  river,  where  ahead  wind  and  an  ap- 
proaching storm  compelled  us  to  land.  Before  we 
could  unload  our  canoes,  or  pitch  a  tent,  rain  com- 
menced, and  it  poured  down  in  torrents  for  an  hour 
or  more,  during  which  there  was  no  alternative  but 
to  stand  patiently  upon  the  sand.  If  we  had  lain  at 
the  bottom  of  the  lake,  we  could  not  have  been  more 
completely  drenched.  When  the  rain  ceased,  the 
wind  arose  from  the  southwest,  and  confined  us  to 
that  spot  during  the  remainder  of  the  day. 

*XLII.  Day.— (July  4th.)— We  passed  the  forty-fifth 
Anniversary  of  American  Independence  until  two 
o'clock,  at  the  mouth  of  Sandy  river.  The  wind 
continued  to  blow  unfavourably  a  great  part  of  the 
day.  In  the  afternoon  it  changed  so  that  we  were 
able  to  put  out,  although  the  lake  was  still  agitated  : 
on  going  three  miles  we  turned  a  prominent  point  of 
land  called  De  Tour,  which  lies  at  the  foot  of  the 
great  Fond  du  Lac,  or  West  Bay.  Here  we  changed 
our  course  from  N.  W.  to  S.  S.  W.  and  continued  it, 
witb  little  variation,  to  the  moulh  of  Cranberry  river, 
where  we  encamped  at  eight  o'clock,  having  pro- 
gressed thirty-three  miles.  The  evening  was  clear  and 
calm  and  twilight  was  observable  all  night.     In  the 


105 

latitude  of  67°  47',  Mackenzie  saw  the  sun  above  the 
horizon  at  12  o'clock,  P.M.  This  was  on  the  11th 
July,  1789.  In  42°,  (the  meridian  of  Albany  and  De- 
troit,) the  light  .of  the  sun  is  wholly  invisible  at  this 
season  after  eight  o'clock. 

XL1II.  Day. — (July  tith.) — We  were  upon  the  lake 
this  morning  before  three  o'clock.  The  sun  rose 
above  the  horizon  at  ten  minutes  before  four,  giving 
us  day  light  nearly  an  hour  sooner  than  it  will  reach 
our  friends  on  the  shores  of  the  Atlantic.  The  morn- 
ing was  clear  •  and  calm,  and  the  prospect  of  reach- 
ing the  head  of  the  lake,  before  the  sun  would  again 
set,  put  our  party  in  the  finest  spirits,  and  the  voya- 
geurs  worked  with  renewed  vigour.  At  the  distance 
of  five  leagues  from  Cranberry  river,  we  passed  the 
mouth  of  the  Bois  Brule,  which  enters  the  lake  at  the 
foot  of  a  small  bay.  This  river  is  i  avigated  80  miles, 
and  a  portage  of  two  pauses  then  made  into  a  small 
lake,  which  is  the  source  of  St.  Croix  river.  The  latter 
enters  the  Mississippi  between  St.  Peter's  and  lake 
Pepin,  and  is  navigable  at  all  seasons.  The  South 
West  Company  have  an  establishment  one  hundred 
leagues  from  its  mouth,  and  about  twenty -five 
leagues  south  of  the  Fond  du  Lac.  Three  miles 
beyond  Bojs  Brule  we  landed  on  the  sandy  shore 
a  kw  moments,  and  here  found  an  immense  body 
of  iron  sand,  very  pure  and  black.  It  lay  in  a  stra- 
tum of  a  foot  in  thickness  along  the  shore,  and  ex- 
tending either  way,  as  far  as  we  examined.  At  elev- 
en o'clock  a  northeast  wind  arose  which  enabled  us 
to  hoist  sail,  and  an  hour  afterwards  we  entered  the 
mouth  of  the  river  St.  Louis,  which  enters  the  lake 
at  the  head  of  the  Fond  du  Lac.  Thus  have  we 
Completed  the  passage  of  Lake  Superior  on  th$ 


196 

eighteenth  day  after  our  departure  from  Point  aux 
Pins,  including  the  excursion  up  the  Ontonagon  and 
the  delay  at  the  mouth  of  that  river.  The  entire 
distance  from  Point  Iroquois  is  four  hundred  and 
ninety  miles,  and  this  is  the  greatest  length  of  the 
lake,  in  a  direct  course  from  east  to  west.  In  tra- 
versing around  the  Canadian  shore  it  is  estimated  at 
twelve  hundred  miles,  and  its  extreme  breadth  from 
th°  bottom  of  Keweena  Bay,  to  the  mouth  of  Nipe- 
gon  river,  is  a  hundred  and  ninety  miles.  Its  circum- 
ference may  be  estimated  at  seventeen  hundred 
miles.  Mr.  Darby  has  calculated  its  medium  depth  at 
990  feet,  and  its  superficial  area  at  836,352,000,000 
feet.*  It  has  a  number  of  large  and  well  wooded 
islands,  the  principal  of  which  are  Maurepas,  Phil- 
lipoux,  the  Island  of  Yellow  Sands,  and  Isle  Royal. 
The  latter  is  represented  by  Carver  as  being  "  an 
hundred  miles  long,  and  in  many  places,  forty  broad." 
The  island  of  Maurepas  is  reputed  to  abound  in 
minerals,  and  was  formerly  explored  by  the  copper 
mine  companj'.  "  I  found  it,"  says  the  agent,  "  one 
solid  rock,  thinly  covered  with  soil,  except  in  the 
valleys  ;  but  generally  well  wooded.  Its  circumfer- 
ence is  twelve  leagues.  On  examining  the  surface, 
I  saw  nothing  remarkable,  except  large  veins  of 
transparent  spar,  and  a  mass  of  rock,  at  the  south 

*  The  following  comparative  estimote  of  the  volume  of  water 
jn  the  ohain  of  northwestern  Lakes  is  given  by  Mr.  Darby  in  his 
Tour  to  Detroit  p.  117- 


LAKES. 

Medium  depth. 

Sup.  area  in  feet. 

ssfiii.v^daooo 

Solid  contents  in  feet. 

Superior, 

900 

752,716,800,000,000 

Huron, 

900 

557,568,000.000 

501,811,200,000,000 

Michigan, 

900 

376,898. 400.000|  339  208,56  >.000,000 

Erie, 

120 

41 8,1 76 .00'  .000 

50,181.120.000,000 

Ontario, 

492 

200;724.480,0e0 

98,756,444,160,000 

107 

end  of  the  island,  which  appeared  to  be  composed 
of  iron  ore."  The  Island  of  Yellow  Sands  derives 
its  chief  interest  from  the  traditions  and  fanciful  tales 
which  the  Indians  relate  concerning  its  mineral  trea- 
sures, and  their  supernatural  guardians.  They 
pretend  that  its  shores  are  covered  with  a  heavy  shi- 
ning yellow  sand,  which  they  would  persuade  us  is 
gold,  but  that  the  guardian  spirit  of  the  island,  will  not 
permit  any  of  it  to  be  carried  away.  To  eniorce  his 
commands  he  has  drawn  together  upon  it,  myriads 
of  eagles,  hawks,  and  other  birds  of  prey,  who  by 
their  cries  warn  him  of  any  intrusions  upon  the  do- 
m-tin,  and  assist  with  their  claws  and  beaks  to  expel 
the  enemy  He  has  also  called  from  the  depths  of 
the  lake,  large  serpents  of  the  most  hideous  forms, 
who  lie  thickly  coiled  upon  the  golden  sands,  and 
hiss  defiance  to  the  steps  of  the  invader.  A  great 
many  years  ago,  it  is  pretended,  that  some  people  of 
their  nation  were  driven  by  stress  of  weather,  to  take 
shelter  upon  the  enchanted  island,  and  being  struck 
with  the  beautiful  and  glittering  appearance  of  the 
treasure,  they  put  a  large  quantity  of  it  in  their  ca- 
noes, and  attempted  to  carry  it  off,  but  a  gigantic 
spirit  strode  into  the  water,  and  in  a  voice  of  thunder, 
commanded  them  to  bring  it  back.  Terrified  with 
his  amazing  size,  and  threatening  aspect,  they  obey- 
ed, and  were  afterwards  suffered  to  depart  without 
molestation,  but  they  have  never  since  attempted 
to  land  upon  it. 

<c  Listen  white  man — go  not  there, 

"  Unseen  spirits  stalk  the  air  ; 

"  Ravenous  birds  their  influence  lend, 

u  Snakes  defy — and  kites  defend. 

tl  There  the  star-eyed  pinther  prowls, 

a  And  the  wolf  in  hunger  howls  ; 


198 

•■  There  the  speckled  adder  breed^ 
,(  And  the  famished  eagle  feeds, 
"  Spirits  keep  them — fiends  incite, 
H  They  are  eager  for  the  fight, 
**  And  are  thirsting  night  and  day, 
"  On  the  human  heart  to  prey, 
"  Touch  not  then  the  guarded  lands 
«<  Of  the  isle  of  yellow  sands."—  MSS. 

Carver  represents  "the  country  on  the  north  and  east 
parts  of  Lake  Superior  as  very  mountainous  and  bar- 
ren," and  Mackenzie  adds,  that  "it  is  a  continued  moun- 
tainous embankment  of  rock,  from  three  hundred  to 
one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  in  height."  The  prin- 
cipal rivers  on  that  shore  are  the  Pic,  Nipegon,  and 
Michepicoten.  The  climate  is  described  as  very- 
unfavourable  and  the  vegetation  slow  and  scanty. 
"VA  e  can  only  speak  with  certainty  of  the  southern 
coast,  on  which  it  receives  thirty  tributary  rivers,  but 
none  of  them  exceed  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  in 
length.  Of  these  the  Ontonagon,  Montreal,  Mau- 
vaise,  Bois  Brule,  and  St.  Louis  are  the  largest,  and 
communicate  with  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi. 
The  coast  is  sandy  from  Point  Iroquois  to  the  Pic* 
tured  Rocks  ;  then  rocky  to  the  foot  of  the  Fond  du 
Lac,  with  occasional  plains  of  sand,  as  at  the  Onto- 
nagon, and  Point  Chegoiinegon,  and  from  that  to  the 
head  of  the  lake,  sandy  and  without  hills.  The  forest 
trees  are  white  and  yellow  pine,  hemlock,  spruce, 
birch,  poplar,  and  oak,  with  a  mixture  of  elm,  maple, 
and  ash,  upon  the  banks  of  the  rivers.  The  coast  is  ve- 
ry elevated, — in  some  places  mountainous, — generally 
sterile, — and  dangerous  to  navigate.  It  is  subject  to 
storms  and  sudden  transitions  of  temperature,  and  to 
fogs  and  mists,  which  are  often  so  dense  as  to  ob- 
scure objects  at  a  short  distance,  and  prove  disas- 
trous to  canoe  travellers,  by  separating  the  party  and 


19S 

driving  them  upon  rocks  and  sand  banks.  It  ap- 
pears to  enjoy  a  warm  atmosphere  during  the  sum- 
mer season,  the  result  of  our  observations  indicating 
a  mean  heat  of  66°  for  June,  and  64°  for  July.  We 
found  strawberries  ripe  at  Keweena  Portage  on  the 
25th,  and  at  the  Ontonagon  on  the  27th  of  June.  But 
it  has  a  long  and  frightful  winter.  The  Indians  liv- 
ing upon  its  shores  are  divided  into  small  bands,  and 
rely  more  upon  the  fish  of  the  lake,  than  upon  the 
chace.  There  are  two  kinds  of  trout,  some  of 
which  weigh  fifty  pounds.  White  fish,  sturgeon 
pickerel,  pike,  carp,  black  bass,  and  herring,  are  al- 
so abundant.  Although  we  have  occasionally  met 
ducks  along  the  shore,  it  is  not  a  favourite  resort  of 
water  fowl.  The  waters  are  too  pure  and  deep, 
and  the  coast  too  rocky  for  the  growth  of  the  wild 
rice,  and  those  aquatic  plants  which  draw  such  my- 
riads of  these  birds  into  the  northwestern  regions. 
Its  mineralogy  and  geology  have  been  detailed  in 
the  progress  of  the  voyage.  No  part  of  the  union 
presents  a  more  attractive  field  for  geological  inves- 
tigation or  mineral  discoveries.  Its  copper,  iron,  and 
lead,  promise  to  become  important  items  in  the  fu- 
ture commerce  of  the  country.  The  beds  of  iron 
aand  along  the  shore  exceed  every  thing  of  the  kind 
found  in  the  United  States.  It  presents  two  har- 
bours for  vessels  which  are  rarely  equalled  : — These 
are  Grand  Isle,  and  Chegoimegon  Bay.  rl  he  former 
is  perhaps  the  most  capacious,  deep,  and  completely 
land-locked  of  any  in  America.  Such  are  the  lead- 
ing traits  of  the  southern  shore  of  Superior.  The 
French  it  appears  bestowed  unsuccessfully  upon  this 
lake  the  names  of  Conde,  and  Tracy.  The  former 
had  previously  been  applied  to  Erie,  but  neither 
were  ever  fully  adopted.      I  was  anxious  from  the 


200 

time  of  our  entrance  upon  it,  to  learn  the  Indian 
name  ;  it  is  Missi$awgaiegon,  signifying  simply  " great 
Jake."  According  to  the  eslinrta'es  which  1  have 
made, this  lake  has  an  elevation  ofaf  v  one  feet  above 
Lake  Huron, — eighty-one,  above  L«  ke  Eric, — and 
six  hundred  and  forty-one,  above  the  Atlantic  ocean 
at  high  tide.* 

On  turning  Point  de  Tour,  a  few  miles  beyond  San- 
dy river,  we  have  the  first  glimpse  of  the  mountains 
on  the  north  side  of  the  lake,  which  are  distant 
probably  forty  miles.  These  become  more  distinct, 
and  continue  to  increase  iii  apparent  altitude  as 
we  ascend  the  Fond  du  Lac,  while  on  the  south  shore 
the  highlands  either  recede  so  widely  from  the  lake 
as  to  become  invisible,  or  entirely  cease.  On  reach- 
ing the  mouth  of  St.  Louis,  or  Kond  du  Lac  river, 
the  Cabotiant  mountains  present  a  lofty  barrier  to- 
wards the  north,  and  have  an  apparent  altitude  of  a 
thousand  feet  above  the  lake.     The  chain  runs  from 

*  ELEVATION  OF  THE  AMERICAN  LAKES. 

Feet.      Tot.  Fee:. 
Level  of  Lake  Erie  above  the  tide  waters  of  the 

Hudson,  (as  surveyed  by  the  N.  Y.  Canal  Com- 
missioners, 56) 
Lake  St.  Clair,  (see  estimate  in  chapter  2.)  10  570 
Lake  Huron,  (see  estimate  in  chapter  2.)                        19             58f« 
Mean  fall  of  the  river  St.  Mary,  between  De  Tour 
and  Point  Iroquois,  sixty  miles,  at  three  inches 
per  m  le,  f rapids  not  included)                                   15 
Nibish  rapid,                                                                    9 
Sugar  Island  rapid                                                              6 
Sault  de  St.  Marie,  (according  to  Col.  Gratiot,)         22   10 
Lake  Superior,                                                               .52   10       641 
t  Col.  Bouchctte,  in  his  Topographical  Description  of  the  Can- 
adas,   has  applied  the    name  (  abotia,  (in  allusion  to    Christian 
Cabot,  the  dh-coverer,)  to  ail  that  part  of  North  America  Iving" 
north  of  the  Great  Lakes, 


201 

east  to  west,  and  as  far  as  the  eye  can  reach  stretches 
off  in  a  lofty  line  towards  the  Mississippi.  It  is  this 
barrier  which  we  have  to  cross  with  our  baggage 
and  canoes  in  ascending  the  St.  Louis  river,  for  this 
precipitous  stream  has  worn  its  rugged  channel 
through  these  mountains,  and  throws  itselfinto  Lake 
Superior  at  its  extreme  head.  The  mouth  of  this 
river  is  not  more  than  a  hundred  and  Mty  yards 
wide,  but  immediately  on  entering,  it  expands  to  a 
mile,  and  continues  this  width  for  five  or  six  miles, 
and  this  part  of  it  resembles  a  lake  more  than  a  ri- 
ver, having  little  or  no  current, — shallow  in  many 
places,  and  filled  with  aquatic  plants.  We  here 
first  saw  in  plenty  the  folle  avoine,  or  wild  rice, 
which  is  so  common  throughout  the  northwestern 
regions,  and  serves  the  Indians  as  a  substitute  tor 
corn.  We  had  previously  noticed  this  plant  in  small 
patches,  in  passing  through  the  river  St.  Mary,  and 
along  the  shores  ofa  few  of  the  tributary  rivers  of  Lake 
Superior, — but  it  is  in  no  place  seen  along  the  shore 
of  the  lake  itself.  Neither  does  that  lake  afford  any 
of  the  water  grasses,  rushes,  or  liliaceous  plants  com- 
mon to  most  of  the  lakes  and  ponds  of  the  north. 
Naturalists  do  not  seem  agreed  as  to  the  character 
of  this  plant,  and  a  discrepancy  appears  in  the 
botanical  nomenclature.  Linnaeus  has  arranged  it 
as  a  variety  of  the  species  plantarum,  under  the 
name  of  Zezania  Aqimiica.  Micheaux  and  Eaton 
denominate  it  Zezania  Clavidosa.  The  Linnasanname 
is  the  most  characteristic.  Other  names  have  been 
given  by  different  botanists,  but  few  in  fact  have  en- 
jo  ;•  I  the  opportunity  of  examining  the  plant  in  its 
natural  situation,  and  it  is  not  even  settled  whether 
the  fruit  is  annually  produced  from  new  seed,  or  the 

26 


202 

same  root  continues  to  germinate  for  many  years. 
There  can  be  no  doubt,  as  Pursh  has  suggested,  that 
it  is  a  perennial  plant.  It  ripens  about  the  first  of  Sep- 
tember, when  the  Indians  gather  it  by  pushing  their 
canoes  into  the  thickest  fields  of  it, — breaking  down 
the  tops  of  the  stalks,  and  beating  out  the  grain  with 
their  paddles,  which  falls  upon  a  spread  blanket  in 
their  canoes.  This  is  a  labour  which  is  performed 
by  the  squaws.  A  great  deal  of  chaff  falls  in  with 
the  grain,  which  is  afterwards  partially  fanned  out 
upon  a  blanket,  but  it  is  never  got  entirely  clean. 
The  grain  has  a  long  cylindrical  shape,  and  becomes 
dark  coloured  and  hard  as  it  dries.  It  contains 
more  gluten  than  common  rice,  and  is  very  nourish- 
ing. It  is  simply  boiled  in  water  until  it  assumes  a 
pasty  consistence,  and  it  has  an  agreeable  flavour. 
The  Indians  have  no  salt,  but  make  use  of  maple 
sugar,  when  in  season.  They  have  no  method  of 
reducing  it  into  meal,  but  the  squaws  sometimes,  in 
cases  of  sickness,  pound  small  quantities  in  a  deer- 
skin bag,  and  thus  procure  a  kind  of  Hour  of  which 
panada  is  made. 

Three  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Louis  ri- 
ver, there  is  a  village  of  Chippeway  Indians,  of  four- 
teen lodges,  and  containing  a  population  of  about 
sixty  souls.  Among  these  we  noticed  a  negro  who 
has  been  long  in  the  service  of  the  fur  company,  and 
who  married  a  squaw,  by  whom  he  has  four  children. 
It  is  worthy  of  remark,  that  the  children  are  as  black 
as  the  nither,  and  have  the  curled  hair  and  glossy 
skin  of  the  native  African.  It  does  not  appear  that 
climate  has  had  any  more  influence  here,  than  it  has 
along  the  borders  of  the  Atlantic,  in  ameliorating 
the  colour  of  this  race.    But  this  evidence  is  certain- 


203 

ly  not  wanted  in  the  present  state  of  physical  and 
philosophical  science,  to  establish  the  fact  that  the 
radical  colours  of  the  different  species  of  the  hu- 
man family,  are  independent  of  the  influence  of 
climate. 

A  short  distance  above  this,  village,  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river,  are  the  ruins  of  one  of  the  old 
forts  and  trading  houses  of  the  northwest  company, 
which  was  abandoned  about  six  years  ago.  The 
site  is  elevated  and  pleasant,  but  the  American  com- 
pany have  not  thought  proper  to  re-occupy  it,  and 
have  fixed  their  establishment  for  the  Fond  du  Lac 
department,  eighteen  miles  above,  where  the  first 
portage  commences.  By  this  change  of  site,  they 
save  the  labour  of  loading  and  unloading  their  ca- 
noes at  the  mouth  of  the  river.  We  arrived  at  the 
company's  house  at  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening. 
The  establishment  consists  of  a  range  of  log  build- 
ings, inclosing  three  sides  of  a  square,  open  toward 
the  river,  and  containing  the  ware-house,  canoe,  and 
boat  yard,  dwelling  house  of  the  resident  clerk,  and 
accommodations  for  the  voyageurs.  There  are  about 
four  acres  of  ground  under  cultivation,  upon  which 
potatoes  are  raised.  No  species  of  grain  has  been 
tried.  The  department  is  supplied  with  wild  rice 
by  the  Indians,  The  buildings  are  situated  upon  an 
alluvial  plain  elevated  a  few  feet  above  the  river, 
and  the  site  is  healthy  and  pleasant.  We  here  see 
pines  and  sugar  maple  growing  beside  each  other, 
— which  is,  I  believe,  a  rare  occurrence.  The  com- 
pany have  recently  sent  up  a  number  of  agricultural 
implements,  with  a  view  of  experimenting  upon  the 
soil  and  climate,  together  with  three  horses,  two- 
oxen,  three  cows,  and  four  bulls.  These  animals 
have  been  transported  with  great  difficulty. 


2(M 


The  weather,  since  leaving  the  Ontonagon,  has 
been  variable.  We  have  had  rain  a  part  of  two 
days,  and  it  has  been  misty,  cloudy  or  stormy,  the  ba- 
lance, of  the  time,  with  the  exception  of  a  part  of 
the'  second  of  July,  and  the  morning  of  this  day. 
The  highest  atmospheric  heat  during  this  time  has 
been  80°,  and  the  average  heat  64°.  The  wind  has 
blown  successively  N.  N.  W.—W,  S.  W.— S.  S.  W. 
and  N.  E.  The  mean  temperature  of  the  water  of 
Lake  Superior  has  been  61°*  The  following  are 
the  stationary  distances  of  the  route. 

From  the  Ontonagon  to  Iron  River, 

Carp  River,  and  the  Porcupine  Mountains, 

Presque  Isle  River, 

Black  River, 

Montreal  River, 

La  Mauvaise  Riviere,  (Bad  River,) 

Point  Chegoimegon, 

Cadolte's  House,  (Island  of  St.  Michael,) 

Fromboise,  (Raspberry,)  River, 

Sandy  River, 

De  Tour  (foot  of  Fond  du  Lac  J 

Cranberry  Creek, 

Bois  Brule  (Burntwood)  River, 

Mouth  of  St.  Louis  River,  or  (Fond  du  Lac,) 

Chippeway  village, 

American  Fur  Company's  Establishment, 

*  Meteorological  Observations  on  the  journey  from  the  Ontonagon  to 
the  Fond  du  Lac. 


Mies. 

Tot.  Miles, 

15 

15 

30 

6 

36 

6 

42. 

21 

63 

12 

75 

6 

81 

3 

84 

15 

99 

6 

105 

3 

108 

30 

138 

15 

153 

21 

174 

3 

177 

18 

195 

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Water  6le    6-is?  Air. 

CHAPTER  VIII.  I 

J  O  U  RJST  E  T9 

FROM  THE  FOXD  DU  LAC  TO  SAJYDY  LAKE. 

XLIV.  Day.— (July  6th.) 

▼V  E  left  the  establishment  at  ten  o'clock  in  the 
morning.  The  river  is  ascended  two  miles  further, 
to  the  foot  of  the  Grand  Portage.  Here  the  goods 
are  all  landed,  and  the  carrying  commences,  but  the 
canoes,  without  load,  ascend  two  miles  higher  to 
the  Galley,  where  they  are  also  taken  out  and  car- 
ried across.  The  first  part  of  the  portage  is  excess- 
ively rough,  and  the  fatigue  was  rendered  almost  in- 
supportable by  the  heat  of  the  day,  the  thermometer 
standing  at  82°  at  noon.  With  the  assistance  of  the 
Indians,  (sixteen  of  whom  were  brought  up  from  the 
mouth  of  the  river  for  that  purpose,)  we  proceeded 
however,  with  all  our  baggage,  five  pauses,  and  en- 
camped at  twilight. 

XLV.  Day. — (July  1th.) — A  storm  of  rain  commen- 
ced during  the  night,  and  continued  until  noon,  when 
the  sun  appeared  for  half  an  hour,  but  the  afternoon 
continued  dark*  and  cloudy,  with  showers.      We 


206 

commenced  carrying  at  six  o'clock,  notwithstanding 
the  rain,  and  with  great  exertions,  went  ten  pauses 
and  encamped  on  the  banks  of  a  small  brook.  The 
difficulties  of  the  portage  have  been  very  much  in- 
creased by  the  rain,  which  has  filled  the  carrying 
path  with  mud  and  water.  We  are  advancing  into 
a  dreary  region. — Every  thing  around  us  wears  a 
wild  and  sterile  aspect,  and  the  extreme  rugged ness 
of  the  country — the  succession  of  swampy  grounds, 
and  rocky  precipices — the  dark  forest  of  hemlock 
and  pines  which  overshadow  the  soil — and  the  dis- 
tant roaring  of  the  river,  would  render  it  a  gloomy 
and  dismal  scene,  without  the  toil  of  transporting 
baggage,  and  the  saddening  influence  of  one  oi  the 
most  dreary  days. 

XLVI.  Day. — (July  8th.) — We  progressed  four 
pauses,  and  reached  the  river  at  the  head  of  the 
portage,  in  season  to  air  our  baggage — repair  the 
canoes — and  make  the  necessary  dispositions  for  an 
early  departure  on  the  following  day.  The  entire 
distance  of  this  portage  is  nine  miles,  which  is  pass- 
ed at  nineteen  pauses,  divided  according  to  the  un- 
evenness  of  the  ground,  and  the  facilities  of  travelling. 
I  have  already  mentioned  that  a  pause  is  reckoned 
at  half  a  mile,  but  when  the  country  is  rough  and  the 
way  bad,  it  is  much  shorter,  while  on  a  level  road,  it 
often  exceeds  that  distance.  The  labour,  however, 
of  travelling  across  a  short  pause  is  as  great  as  that 
of  the  longest,  and  about  the  same  time  is  required 
in  crossing  it,  so  that  this  term  israther  expressive 
of  a  division  of  the  labour  of  making  a  portage,  than 
of  the  geographical  distance.  The  fall  of  the  St. 
Louis  river,  between  the  extremes  oi  this  portage  is 


207 

very  great,  being  one  continued  chain  of  rapids  and 
falls,  and  at  one  place  there  is  a  perpendicular  pitch 
of  thirty  feet  Altogether,  the  descent  may  be  esti- 
mated at  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet.  It  is  here 
that  the  river  forces  a  passage  through  a  chain  of 
mountains  consisting  of  short  broken  ridges,  which 
give  the  country  a  very  rugged  appearance,  and 
render  the  travelling  excessively  toilsome.  Where 
we  leave  the  river  at  the  foot  of  the  portage,  these 
ridges  consist  of  red  sand  stone  rocks  in  horizontal 
layers,  but  on  reaching  the  head  of  the  portage,  we 
find  the  banks  of  the  river  composed  of  slate,  (argil- 
lite^ )  in  a  vertical  position,  traversed  by  veins  of 
greenstone  and  milky  quartz.  The  change  in  the 
rock  strata  takes  place  at  some  intermediate  point, 
which  was  not  precisely  noticed.  At  the  foot  of  the 
portage  I  picked  up  among  the  loose  stones  along  the 
shore,  a  specimen  of  the  micaceous  oxide  of  iron, 
and  some  pyrites  were  also  found  at  that  place. 
While  examining  the  argillite  above,  I  discovered  a 
vein  of  graphite  (plumbago  or  blacklead)  between 
the  vertical  layers  of  that  rock,  but  of  an  indifferent 
quality  for  economical  purposes.  Probably  the  in- 
terior of  the  vein  would  yield  this  mineral  in  a  more 
perfect  form.  Large  detached  blocks  of  black  crys- 
tallized hornblende  rock  are  found  scattered  alonsr 
the  shore  of  the  river,  but  this  rock  is  not  observed 
in  situ.  A  stratum  of  alluvial  soil,  of  two  or  three 
feet  in  depth  rests  upon  the  slate.  It  also  contains 
imbedded  masses  of  hornblende,  together  with  gra- 
nite, quartz,  and  argillite,  and  a  thin  sub-stratum  of 
vegetable  mould  overlays  all.  The  growth  of  trees 
is  pine,  hemlock,  spruce,  birch,  oak,  and  maple,  the 
former  predominating.      In  clambering  among  the 


208  t 

rocks  along  the  river,  I  found  the  red  raspberry  ripe. 
This  appears  to  be  the  common  rubus  strigosus, 
with  a  thornless  stem, — berries  a  scarlet  red,  very 
sweet, — acines  slightly  adhering.  Where  depres- 
sions exist  in  the  surface  of  the  soil,  so  that  it  re- 
mains wet  and  marshy,  the  tamarack  is  found,  and 
the  white  cedar  is  seen  overhanging  the  cliffs  on  the 
banks  of  the  river,  and  adds  very  much  to  the  pic- 
turesque appearance  of  the  St.  Louis  at  this  place. 

XLVII.  Day.— {July  9(h.)— On  reaching  the  foot 
of  the  Grand  Portage,  we  exchanged  two  of  our  larg- 
est canoes  with  the  American  Fur  Company,  for 
four  of  smaller  size  adapted  to  the  navigation  of  the 
river  above  the  portage,  and  now  proceeded  on 
our  voyage  in  seven  small  canoes.  The  river  is  as- 
cended six  miles  to  the  Portage  aux  Coteaux,  which 
consists  of  three  pauses,  and  is  a  mile  and  a  half 
across.  The  carrying  path  lies  over  an  elevated 
tract  of  rough  country  consisting  of  slate  in  a  verti- 
cal position,  which  is  in  many  places  naked,  and 
some  idea  may  be  formed  of  the  singular  appear- 
ance of  the  rock,  by  comparing  it  to  the  leaves  of  a 
book  standing  edgewise.  The  effect  of  this  arrange- 
ment of  the  strata,  upon  the  mockasins  and  feet  of 
the  voyageurs,  who  cross  this  portage  has  led  to  its 
name — the  portage  of  knives.  At  the  lower  end  of 
it,  this  slate  forms  a  lone  standing  pile,  or  pyramid,  in 
the  centre  of  the  river,  of  eighty  or  ninety  feet  in 
height,  and  supporting  in  its  crevices  a  few  stunted 
cedars  and  pines.  The  banks  on  either  side  are 
comparatively  low  at  the  water's  edge,  but  preserve 
the  same  geological  character  and  position,  and  at  a 
short  distance  back,  rise  to  a  corresponding  eleva- 


209 

tion.  It  appears  evident  that  the  river  has  here  rent 
and  worn  a  passage  through  the  rock,  as  it  must  have 
done  at  innumerable  other  places,  in  its  rapid  and 
rugged  course.  The  growth  of  trees  here  is  almost 
exclusively  cedar,  pine,  and  spruce.  We  encamp- 
ed at  the  head  of  the  portage  at  an  early  hour  in  the 
afternoon.  Here  the  river  has  a  perpendicular  fall 
of  fourteen  feet.  At  the  foot  of  it  there  is  a  vein  of 
chlorite  slate,  about  two  hundred  yards  below  the 
fall  on  the  west  shore.  At  this  place  we  also  found 
the  red  raspberry.  A  tall  elm  which  overshadows 
the  little  green  which  has  been  formed  on  the  bank 
oithe  river,  at  the  head  of  the  portage,  in  connexion 
with  the  fall  and  surrounding  woods  and  rocks, 
throws  an  air  of  rural  beauty  over  this  scene — 

li  So  wond'rous  wild,  the  whole  might  seem 
11  The  scenery  of  a  fairy  dream." 

XLVIII.  Day.— {July  1  Of  A.)— The  difficulties  at- 
tending our  ascent  of  the  St.  Louis  river,  induced 
the  Governor  to  determine  on  detaching  a  part  of 
the  expedition  across  the  country  by  land,  to  Sandy 
Lake,  whenever  we  should  arrive  at  an  eligible 
spot.  For  this  purpose  two  Chippeway  guides,  of  the 
Fond  du  Lac  band,  had  been  brought  along  from  the 
head  of  the  Grand  Portage,  and  this  was  the  place 
chosen  for  the  separation.  The  party  thus  detached, 
consisted  of  eight  soldiers  under  the  command  of 
Lieut.  Mackay,  accompanied  by  Mr.  Doty.  Mr.  Trow- 
bridge, Mr.  Chase,  and  myself  together  with  an  in- 
terpreter of  the  Chippeway  language,  and  the  two 
Indian  guides — sixteen  in  all.  The  route  was  repre- 
sented as  capable  of  being  performed  in  two  day's 

27 


210 

journey,  if  no  accident  occurred.     We  left  the  camp 
at  the  head  of  the  portage  at  6  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing,   each    carrying  a  pack    containing  five   day's 
provisions,  a  knife,  a  musquitoe  bar,   and  a  cloak 
or  blanket.      Several  were  armed,   but   others  left 
their  guns,  as  it  was  thought  we  should   see  little 
game,  and  they  would  be  cumbersome  in  travelling. 
Our  guides  taking  their  course  by  the  sun,  immedi- 
ately struck  into  a  close   matted   forest  of  pine  and 
hemlock,  through  which  we  urged  our  way  with  some 
di  j'.culty.      On   travelling  two  miles  we  fell  into  an 
Indian  path,  leading  in  the  required  direction,  which 
wre  followed  until  it  became  lost  in  swamps.      After 
pursuing  it  two  miles,  we  passed  through  a  succes- 
sion of  ponds  and  marshes,  where  the  mud  and  water 
were  in  some  places  half  leg  deep.     These  marshes 
continued  four  miles,  and  were  succeeded  by  a  strip 
of  three  miles  of  open   dry    sandy  barren,   covered 
with   shrubbery,  and  occasionally  clumps  of  pitch 
pines.      This    terminated   in  a  thick  forest  of  hem- 
lock and  spruce,  of  a  young  growth,  which  continu- 
ed two  miles  and  brought  us  to  the  banks  of  a  small 
lake,  with  clear  water  and  a  pebbly  shore.     Having 
no  canoe  to  cross,  we  took  a  circuitous  route  around 
its  southern  shore,  through  thick  woods  and  swamps, 
where  the  difficulty  of  travelling  was  very  much  in- 
creased, by   fallen   trees  and   brush.      In  order   to 
avoid   these  difficulties,   on  approaching  the  head 
of  this    lake,  we  walked   along  the  shore  of  it  and 
occasionally    in    the  water,   and   here   we   picked 
up  several  beautiful  specimens  of  agate  and  carnelian. 
We  now  again  fell  into  the  Indian  path  which  led  us 
to  two  sm  11  lakes,  similar   in  size  to  the  Carnelian 
lake,  but  with  marshy  shores,  and  reddish  water,  and 


211 

filled  with  pond  flowers,  rushes,  and  fblle  avoine.  At 
the  second  lake  the  path  ceased  at  the  water's  edge, 
and  our  guides  could  not  afterwards  find  it.  Here 
they  found  a  large  green  tortoise,  which  they  killed 
in  a  very  ingenious  and  effectual  way,  by  a  blow  with 
a  hatchet  upon  the  neck,  at  the  point  where  the  un- 
der part  of  the  shell  serves  as  a  sheath  to  it.  1  had 
never  before  seen  the  tortoise  killed  in  so  expeditious 
a  manner:  it  was  carried  along  to  be  eaten  at  night. 
They  here  appeared  to  be  in  doubt  about  the  way. 
We  now  entered  the  great  tamarack  swamp,  in  which 
we  progressed  about  eight  miles,  and  encamped  at  5 
o'clock  near  the  shore  of  the  third  lake,  having  tra- 
velled eleven  hours,  and  passed  a  distance  ot  about 
twenty  miles.  The  weather  in  the  morning  was 
cloudy,  and  rain  commenced  about  seven  o'clock, 
and  continued  at  intervals  all  day.  The  thermome- 
ter at  6  A.  M.  stood  at  53°,— at  12  A.  M.  at  72°,  and 
at  6  P.  M.  31°.  The  sun  was  not  visible  during  the 
day.  The  principal  forest  trees  are  tamarack  (jpinus 
pendula,)  yellow  pine,  cedar,  spruce,  and  birch.  The 
winter  green  has  been  common  on  the  piue  bar- 
rens, the  sarsaparilla  (aralia  nundicaidis)  in  the  for- 
ests. 

XLIX.  Day. — {July  11th.) — On  quitting  our  en- 
campment this  morning,  the  Indians  left  a  memorial 
of  our  journey  inscribed  upon  bark,  for  the  informa- 
tion of  such  of  their  tribe  as  should  happen  to  fall  up- 
on our  track.  This  we  find  to  be  a  common  cus- 
tom among  them.  It  is  done  by  tracing,  either  with 
paint  or  with  their  knives  upon  birch  bark,  (betula 
j)upy<acea)  a  number  of  figures  and  hieroglyphics 
which  are  understood  by  their  nation.     This  sheet 


212 

of  bark  is  afterwards  inserted  in  the  end  of  a  pole, 
blazed,  and  drove  into  the  ground,  with  an  in- 
clination towards  the  course  of  travelling.  In  the 
present  instance  the  whole  party  were  represented 
in  a  manner  that  was  perfectly  intelligible,  with  the 
aid  of  our  interpreter,  each  one  being  characterized 
by  something  emblematic  of  his  situation  or  employ- 
ment. They  distinguish  the  Indian  from  the  white 
man,  by  the  particular  manner  of  drawing  the  figure, 
the  former  being  without  a  hat,  &c.  Other  distinctive 
symbols  are  employed,  thus — Lieut.  Mackay  was  fi- 
gured with  a  sword  to  signify  that  he  was  an  officer, 
— Mr.  Doty,  with  a  book,  the  Indians  having  under- 
stood that  he  was  an  attorney, — myself,  v»  ith  a  ham- 
mer, in  allusion  to  the  mineral  hammer  I  carried  in 
my  belt,  &c.  The  figure  of  a  tortoise  and  prairy  hen, 
denoted  that  these  had  been  killed, — three  smokes 
—that  our  encampment  consisted  of  three  fires, — 
eight  muskets, — that  this  was  the  number  armed, — 
three  hacks  upon  the  pole,  leaning  N.  W.  that  we 
were  going  three  days  N.  W. — the  figure  of  a  white 
man  with  a  tongue  near  his  mouth,  (like  the  Azteek 
hieroglyphics)  that  he  was  an  interpreter,&c.  Should 
an  Indian  hereafter  visit  this  spot,  he  would  there- 
fore read  upon  this  memorial  of  bark, — that  four- 
teen white  men  and  two  Indians  encamped  at  that 
place, — that  five  of  the  white  men  were  chiefs  or  of- 
ficers,— one  an  interpreter, — and  eight  common  sol- 
diers,— that  they  were  going  to  Sandy  Lake,  (know- 
ing three  days  journey  N.  W.  must  carry  us  there) — 
that  we  were  armed  with  eight  guns,  and  a  sword, — 
that  we  had  killed  a  tortoise,  a  prairy  hen,  &c.  I 
had  no  previous  idea  of  the  existence  of  such  a  medi- 
um of  intelligence  among  the  northern  Indians.     AH 


213 

the  travellers  of  the  region,  are  silent  on  the  subject 
I  had  before  witnessed  the  facility  with  which  one 
of  the  lake  Indians  had  drawn  a  map  of  certain  parts 
of  the  southern  coast  of  Lake  Superior,  but  here  uas 
a  historical  record  of  passing  events,  as  permanent 
certainly  as  any  written  record  among  us,  and  full 
as  intelligible  to  those  for  whom  it  was  intended. 
We  left  our  encampment  at  seven  o'clock,  and  after 
travelling  nine  hours  in  the  Tamarack  swamp,  en- 
camped, having  progressed  by  estimation,  14  miles. 
This  has  been  the  most  fatiguing  days  journey 
onthe  tour,  and  several  of  our  party  lay  down  at 
night  in  a  complete  state  of  exhaustion.  Even 
our  Indian  guides  demanded  a  halt.  All  that  could 
render  travelling  tiresome  and  perplexing,  has  been 
encountered — swamps— mud — bog — windfalls — stag- 
nant water — the  want  of  spots  sufficiently  dry  to  sit 
down  upon — and  of  water  that  could  be  drank,  have 
successively  opposed  our  progress,  and  enhanced  the 
labour  of  the  journey.  To  increase  these  perplexi- 
ties, our  guides  seemed  uncertain  of  their  way,  and 
we  wandered  about  among  bogs  and  morasses, 
without  the  satisfaction  of  knowing  that  we  approach- 
ed nearer  to  the  place  we  were  in  search  of.  While 
toiling  our  way  through  this  dreary  and  inhospitable 
region,  the  remark  of  the  Baron  La  Hontan,  respect- 
ing the  northwestern  region  of  Canada,  that  it  is  "  the 
fag  end  of  the  world,"  came  forcibly  to  mind.  It  was 
probably  by  reverting,  under  similar  circumstances 
to  the  smiling  regions  of  the  south  of  France,  his 
native  country,  that  the  Baron  was  induced  to  throw 
out  this  geographical  anathema.  Without  applying 
the  remark  to  the  whole  region  of  the  northwest, 
or  presuming  to  say,  that  this  particular  section  of  it 


214 

is  indicated  by  the  lowest  degree  in  the  scale  of  coun- 
tries geologically  cursed,  it  may  be  remarked, 
that  it  is  subject  to  the  influence  of  a  winter  atmos- 
phere for  nine  months  in  the  year,  and  that  it  can 
never  be  rendered  subservient  to  the  purposes  of 
agriculture,  or  traversed  by  roads.  Even  the  Indians 
never  visit  it  except  during  the  winter  season  upoa 
the  ice,  for  the  purpose  of  taking  the  marten,  beaver, 
and  muskrat.  The  dreadful  storms  which  prevail 
here  at  certain  seasons,  are  indicated  by  the  prostra- 
tion of  entire  forests,  and  the  up-rooting  of  the  firm- 
est trees.  These  lie  invariably  pointing  towards  the 
southeast,  indicating  the  strongest  winds  to  prevail 
from  the  opposite  point.  It  is  one  of  the  most  fatigu- 
ing labours  of  the  route,  to  cross  these  immense 
windfalls, — the  trees  are  chiefly  tamarack,  spruce, 
cedar,  ash,  white  birch,  and  hemlock.  In  the  course 
of  the  day  we  have  crossed  a  turbid  stream  running 
towards  the  south,  called  Akeek  Sccbe  (kettle  river,) 
which  is  tributary  to  the  Missisawgaiegon  which  en- 
ters the  Mississippi,  a  short  distance  above  the  falls 
of  St.  Anthony,  after  having  passed  in  the  intermedi- 
ate distance  through  the  Great  Spirit  Lake. 

L.  Day. — {July  12th.)— The  dampness  of  the  ground 
upon  which  we  lay,  and  the  torment  of  the  musqui- 
toes,  gave  us  little  rest.  We  commenced  our  march 
at  five  o'clock,  and  after  travelling  twelve  hours  pas- 
sed out  of  the  great  swamp,  and  encamped  upon  the 
banks  of  a  small  stream  called  Buflaloe  creek,  which 
is  tributary  to  Sandy  Lake.  Here  our  guides  came 
to  a  country  which  they  recognised,  and  by  their  re- 
iterated shouts  convinced  us  that  they  were  no  less 
overjoyed  than  ourselves  u^on  this  discovery.     In  a 


215 

short  time  they  pointed  out  to  us  hacked  trees  and 
bushes  where  they  had  formerly  passed,  which  en- 
tirely restored  our  lost  confidence,  and  before  night 
we  fell  into  an  Indian  trail  which  they  followed  with 
as  much  apparent  facility  and  confidence  as  an  Amer- 
ican traveller  would  a  turnpike  road,  although  we 
could  seldom  distinguish  the  marks  and  signs  by  which 
they  were  guided.  We  compute  this  day's  journey  at 
20  miles.  In  crossing  the  swamp  wre  found  the  cran- 
berry (oxy coccus  macrocarpus)  in  great  abundance. 
Upon  the  same  bog  were  to  be  seen  the  fruit  of  last 
year's  growth,  the  green  berries  of  '  n  oresent  sea- 
son, and  flowers  that  were  just  expa.-  ing.  The 
agreeable  taste  of  this  berry  was  a  gratefi  treat,  at  a 
time  when  we  were  much  fatigued,  by  travelling  for 
many  miles  over  an  elastic  open  bog  where  no 
drink-water  could  be  procured. 

LI.  Day. — (July  1 3th.) — We  were  aroused  between 
four  and  five  o'clock  by  a  shower  of  rain,  and  after 
taking  our  customary  breakfast  of  dried  beef  and 
biscuit,  pursued  the  Indian  trail  towards  Sandy 
Lake,  which  we  reached  after  travelling  fourteen 
miles,  at  12  o'clock.  Our  path  after  leaving  the 
swamps  lay  across  a  succession  of  sandy  ridges,  co- 
vered with  white  and  yellow  pine,  with  some  poplar 
and  thickets  of  underbrush  in  the  valleys,  and  alto- 
gether, of  a  barren  appearance.  In  crossing  these  I 
noticed  among  the  shrubbery  the  witch  hazel,  sarsa- 
parilla,  wild  cherry,  kinnikinick,  and  the  Labrador 
tea  plant,  (ledum  latifolium  of  Pursh.)  Imbedded  in  the 
sandy  alluvion  of  these  ridges  are  found  scattered 
masses  of  hornblende,  granite,  argillite,  sand  stone, 
milky  and  red  ferruginous  quartz,  jasper,  and  carneli- 


21b 

an.  The  largest  masses  consist  of  granite  and  horn- 
blende. The  carneiian  is  in  small  fragments  of  a  red 
colour,  sometimes  clouded  or  striped  with  white, 
or  pale  yellow  The  blue  jay,  and  brown  thresher, 
the  pigeon  and  turtle  dove  occasionally  appeared  in 
the  forest,  to  enliven  this  part  of  the  journey.  On 
approaching  the  lake  we  ascended  a  lofty  pine  ridge, 
which  forms  its  southern  barrier,  and  commands  one 
of  the  most  charming  views  of  this  romantic  little 
lake,  which  suddenly  rose  to  our  impatient  sight 
like  a  "  burnished  sheet  of  living  gold"  that  gleam- 
ing with  the  declining  sun — 

iC  In  all  her  length  far  winding  lay 
"  With  promontory,  creek,  and  bay  ; 
11  And  islands  that  empurpled  bright 
"  Floated  amid  the  livelier  light; 
"  And  mountains  that  like  giants  stand 
"  To  sentinel  enchanted  land.'' — Ssott. 

The  Indian  name  for  this  lake  is  Kom-toncr-gog-o« 
aiog, — the  Canadians  call  it  Lac  du  Sable  :  both  are 
significant  of  its  sandy  shores.  It  is  about  five  miles 
iong,  by  four  in  breadth,  and  twelve  in  circumfer- 
ence,— of  a  very  irregular  shape,  with  innumera  >Ie 
islands,— bays,— and  points,  some  of  which  project  into 
it  half  its  width.  Strewed  along  its  shores,  we  find 
detached  fragments  of  granite,  and  other  rocks,  to- 
gether with  carnelian,  agate,  jasper,  and  hornstone. 
The  adjoining  lands  are  hilly  and  covered  with  pine. 
The  islands  are  characterized  by  oak.  It  has  an  out- 
let by  which,  at  the  distance  of  two  miles,  it  commu- 
nicates with  the  Mississippi  river.  On  this  lake  the 
American  Fur  Company  have  an  establishment, 
which  we  in  vain   endeavoured  to  descry   on  first 


217 

reaching  the  eminence  that  overlooked  it.  We  car- 
rip d  a  letter  to  the  clerks  from  the  agent  of  the  es- 
tablishment, Mr.  Morrison,  whom  we  met,  on  our 
passage  through  Lake  Superior,  on  his  annual  return 
to  LMichilimackinac,  and  were  informed  that  a  gun 
fired  upon  any  part  of  it  could  be  heard  at  the 
fort,  (as  it  is  called.)  Our  first  care,  therefore,  on 
reaching  the  shore,  was  to  fire  a  volley  of  musketry, 
to  advertise  them  of  our  approach,  and  procure  a 
boat  to  take  us  across.  As  it  seemed  to  produce  no 
effect  the  signal  was  reiterated,  and  at  last  two  men 
were  descried  in  a  canoe,  cautiously  approaching. 
They  appeared  to  be  in  doubt  whether  we  were 
white  men  or  Indians, — friends  or  foes, — but  we  soon 
convinced  them  by  parading  our  soldiers  upon  the 
beach,  and  by  signals,  that  we  were  Americans  and 
friends.  On  reaching  us  they  proved  to  be  the  two 
clerks  of  the  company's  establishment,  to  whom  ve 
carried  an  introductory  letter.  They  were  not  less 
surprised  at  our  appearance,  than  we  overjoyed 
at  theirs,  and  while  passing  across  the  lake,  they  re- 
lated the  singular  effect  which  our  firing  had  produ- 
ced at  their  establishment,  and  in  the  contiguous  In- 
dian village.  The  Indians  of  this  region  being  at  war 
with  the  Sioux,  had  mistaken  the  firing  for  an  attack 
of  that  nation  upon  some  part  of  their  tribe,  and  were 
thrown  into  the  utmost  consternation.  Some  of  the 
women  pretended  to  have  heard  the  war  whoop,  and 
all  were  unprepared,  totally,  for  such  an  encounter. 
The  possibility  of  its  being  a  straggling  party  of 
hunters,  had  occurred  to  them,  but  they  did  not  ven- 
tui-e  to  reconnoitre  us  until  they  had  driven  off  their 
cattle  and  secured  them  in  the  woods,  and  made 
some  other  dispositions  suggested  on  the  emergency. 

28 


218 

We  reached  the  fort  a  short  time  before  sunset. 
It  i*  situated  on  a  sandy  point,  on  the  south  shore  of 
the  lake,  near  its  outlet,  and  consists  of  a  stockade 
one  hundred  feet  square,  with  bastions  at  the  south- 
cast,  and  northwest  angles,  pierced  for  musketry. 
The  pickets  are  of  pitch  pine,  thirteen  feet  above 
the  ground,  and  a  foot  square,  and  pinned  together 
with  stout  plates  of  the  same  wood.  There  are 
three  gates,  the  principal  one  facing  the  north,  which 
are  shut  whenever  liquor  is  dealt  out  to  the  Indians. 
The  stockade  incloses  two  ranges  of  buildings  con- 
taining the  provision  store,  workshop,  ware  house, 
rooms  for  the  clerks,  and  accommodations  for  the 
men.  On  the  west  and  northwest  angles  of  the  fort 
ihere  are  four  acres  of  ground  inclosed  with  pickets, 
devoted  to  the  culture  of  potatoes.  No  garden  vege- 
tables, or  grain  are  attempted  to  be  raised.  This 
is  one  of  the  posts  visited  by  Lieut.  Pike,  in  1806, 
and  there  are  still  several  people  here  who  remem- 
ber that  visit,  it  was  then  occupied  by  the  North- 
west Company,  by  whom  it  was  first  erected  in  1794. 

Lll  Day. — {Juty  141ft.) — This  morning  we  em- 
barked, accompanied  by  one  of  the  clerks  of  the 
company's  establishment,  and  sixteen  Indians  of  the 
Sandy  Lake  band,  to  meet  the  expedition  on  the 
Savannah  Portage,  and  assist  in  carrying  the  bag- 
gage across.  On  going  a  league  we  landed  in  a  bay 
on  the  northeast  shore  of  the  lake,  and  proceeded 
along  an  old  trail,  leading  to  the  west  end  of  the  port- 
age, where  we  arrived  about  twelve  o'clock,  at  noon, 
and  to  our  surprise  found  a  part  of  the  baggage  al- 
ready there.  Governor  Cass,  and  some  of  the  gen- 
tlemen who  accomoanied  him  from  the  Portasre  aux 


■ 


219 

Coteaux, -had  also  arrived,  and  in  the  course  of  an 
hour,  we  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing  the  whole  party 
there,  but  it  was  five  o'clock  in  the  evening  before 
the  last  baggage  and  canoes  were  carried  over,  and 
it  was  then  concluded  to  encamp.  The  expedition 
after  our  departure  from  the  Portage  aux  Coteaux, 
on  the  tenth,  proceeded  up  the  St.  Louis  about  twen- 
ty miles  against  a  strong  current,  in  the  course  of 
which  they  ascended  the  Grand  Rapids,  where  the 
river  was  estimated  to  have  a  fall  of  90  feet,  in  six: 
miles. — On  the  eleventh,  they  proceeded  thirty-three 
miles,  and  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  the  Savannah 
river. — On  the  twelfth,  they  ascende  1  that  river 
to  within  two  miles  of  its  source,  and  there  left  two 
of  the  canoes  which  had  been  procured  of  the  Ameri- 
can Fur  Company. — On  the  thirteenth,  they  proceed- 
ed three  pauses  upon  the  portage. — These  three  paus- 
es were  a  perfect  quagmire,  in  which  the  men  often 
sank  half-thigh  deep  into  the  mud. — On  the  four- 
teenth,  they  moved  ten  pauses  to  the  west  end  of  the 
portage,  where  we  rejoined  them  after  a  separation 
of  five  days.  The  geological  character  of  the  coun- 
try in  the  intermediate  distance,  is  considerably  di- 
versified. Having  requested  Dr.  VVolcott,  on  leav- 
ing the  Portage  aux  Coteaux,  to  note  the  geological 
appearances  of  the  country,  he  obligingly  furnished 
me  with  the  following  observations: 

"  July  1  Oth. — We  left  the  vertical  strata  of  slate, 
about  two  miles  above  the  head  of  the  Portage  aux 
Coteaux.  They  were  succeeded  by  rocks  of  horn- 
blende, which  continued  the  whole  distance  to  the 
head  of  the  Grand  Rapid.  These  rocks  were  only 
to  be  observed  in  the  bed  of  the  r  yer,  and  appeared 


220 

to  be  much  water-worn,  and  manifestly  out  of  place. 
Soon  alter  we  left  the  Portage  aux  Coteaux,  the  hills 
receded  from  the  river,  and  its  banks  for  the  rest 
of  the  way  were  generally  low, — often  alluvial, — and 
always  covered  with  a  thick  growth  of  birch,  elm, 
sugar  tree,  (accr  saccharinum^)  and  the  whole  tribe  of 
pines,  with  an  almost  impenetrable  thicket  of  under- 
brush. 

"  July  11th. — The  appearances  of  this  day  have 
been  similar  to  those  of  yesterday,  except  that  the 
country  bordering  the  river,  became  entirely  alluvi- 
al, and  the  poplar  became  the  predominating  growth 
while  the  evergreen  almost  entirely  disappeared. 
The  rocks  were  seldom  visible  except  upon  the  ra- 
pids, and  then  only  in  the  bed  of  the  river,  and  were 
entirely  composed  of  hornblende  all  out  of  place,  and 
exhibiting  no  signs  of  stratification,  but  evidently 
thrown  confusedly  together  by  the  force  of  the  cur- 
rent. 

"  July  12th. — The  Savannah  river  is  about  twenty 
yards  broad  at  its  junction  with  the  St.  Louis,  but 
soon  narrows  to  about  half  the  breadth,  which  it  re- 
tains until  it  forks  at  the  distance  of  twelve  miles 
from  its  mouth.  Its  whole  course  runs  through  a 
low  marshy  meadow  the  timbered  land  occasionally 
reaching  to  the  banks  of  the  river,  but  generally 
keeping  a  distance  of  about  twenty  rods  on  either 
side.  The  meadow  is  for  the  most  part  covered  with 
tufts  of  willow  and  other  shrubs,  common  to  marsh- 
es. The  woods,  which  skirt  it,  are  of  the  same  kinds 
observed  on  the  preceding  days,  except  that  a  spe- 
cies of  small  oak,  frequently  appears  among  it.    The 


221 

river  becomes  so  narrow  towards  its  head,  that  it  is 
with  great  difficulty  canoes  can  make  their  way 
through  its  windings;  and  the  portage  commences  a 
mile  or  two  from  its  source,  which  is  in  a  tamarack 
swamp." 

The  descent  of  the  St.  Louis  river  in  the  same  dis- 
tance, according  to  the  estimate  kept  by  Dr.  Wol- 
cott,#  is  two  hundred  and  thirty  feet.  The  length 
of  the  Savannah  portage  is  six  miles,  and  is  passed 
at  thirteen  pauses.  The  first  three  pauses  are  shock- 
ingly bad.  It  is  not  only  a  bed  of  mire,  but  the  difficul- 
ty of  passing  it  is  greatly  increased  by  fallen  troes, 
limbs,  and  sharp  knots  of  the  pitch  pine,  in  some  places 
on  the  surface,  in  others  imbedded  one  or  two  feet 
below  Where  there  are  hollows  or  depressions  in 
the  ground,  tall  coarse  grass,  brush,  and  pools  of 
stagnant  water  are  encountered.  Old  voyageurs 
say,  that  this  part  of  the  portage  was  formerly  cov- 
ered with  a  heavy  bog,  or  a  kind  of  peat,  upon  which 
the  walking  was  very  good,  but  that  during  a  dry 
season,  it  accidentally  caught  fire  and  burnt  over 
the  surface  of  the  earth  so  as  to  lower  its  level  two 
or  three  feet  when  it  btcame  mirey,   and  subject  to 

Miles.  Feet 

*From  the  head  of  the  Portage  aux  Coteaux,  to 

the  Isle  aux  Plaie,  distance 

To  the  Isle  aux  Pins, 

To  the  head  of  said  Tsle, 

To  the  foot  of  the  Grand  Rapide, 

To  the  head  of  the  Grand  Rapide- 

To  Glukie  Rapide, 

To  the  head  of  ditto. 

To  Grosse  Roche, 

To  Savannah  river, 

To  the  Portage, 


3 

13 

6 

6 

8 

6 

1 

2 

(i 

90 

6 

4 

7    . 
S 

5 

21 

12  6 

12 

72 

24 

IS 

Tola!  fail  in 

80  f 

230  6 

222 

inundation  from  the  Savannah  river.  The  country, 
after  passing  the  third  pause,  changes  in  a  short  dis- 
tance, from  a  marsh  to  a  region  of  sand  hills  covered 
mostly  with  white  and  yellow  pine,  intermixed  with 
aspen.  The  hills  are  short  and  conical,  with  a  mod- 
erate elevation.  In  some  places  they  are  drawn 
out  into  ridges,  but  these  ridges  cannot  be  observed 
to  run  in  any  uniform  course  ;  on  the  contrary  they 
are  confused  in  their  arrangement.  The  country 
has  a  general  rise  from  the  East  to  the  West  Savan- 
nah, which  may  be  estimated  at  thirty  feet.  This  is 
the  dividing  ridge  between  the  waters  of  Lake  Su- 
perior, and  the  Mississippi  river.  Where  the  portage 
path  approaches  the  sources  of  the  West  Savannah 
there  is  a  descent  into  a  small  valley  covered  with 
rank  grass — without  forest  trees — and  here  and  there 
clumps  of  willows,  similar  to  those  on  the  East  Sa- 
vannah. This  valley  is  skirted  with  a  thick  and 
brushy  growth  of  alder,  aspen,  hazel,  &c.  The  ad- 
joining hills  are  sandy,  covered  with  pine.  The 
stream  here  is  just  large  enough  to  swim  a  canoe, 
and  the  navigation  commences  within  a  mile  of  its 
source.  It  pursues  a  very  serpentine  course  to  San- 
dy Lake,  in  a  general  direction  northwest,  and  has 
several  rapids.  The  thermometer  this  day  stood  at 
80°  at  noon. 

LIII.  Day. — {July  15th.) — At  five  o'clock  in  the 
morning  we  commenced  our  descent.  The  water 
being  very  shallow,  only  two  men  were  allowed  to 
embark  in  each  canoe;  the  remainder  of  the  party 
proceeded  on  foot  by  the  path  we  yesterday  came 
up.  On  descending  four  miles,  there  is  a  portage  of 
six  hundred  yards  where  half  the  baggage  is  carried 


222 

across,  but  the  canoes  go  over  the  rapids  with  halt- 
loads.  Here  the  men  were  halted  to  assist.  Eight 
miles  lower  there  is  another  portage  of  four  or  five 
hundred  yards,  where  the  same  labour  is  performed. 
The  river  here  receives  a  tributary  from  the  south, 
called  Ox  creek,  and  from  the  point  of  its  junction 
the  navigation  is  good  at  all  seasons,  to  Sandy  Lake, 
a  distance  of  six  miles.  It  is  one  league  from  the 
mouth  of  the  West  Savannah  to  the  company's  fort, 
where  the  expedition  arrived  at  four  o'clock  in  the 
afternoon.  We  were  received  with  a  salute  from 
the  Indians  a  la  mode  de  savage,  with  balls.  The 
custom  of  firing  salutes  was  introduced  into  this  re- 
gion by  the  North  West  Company,  who  were  in  the 
habit  of  receiving  their  agents  and  clerks,  on  their 
annual  return  from  Montreal,  with  this  mark  of  re- 
spect. But  the  Indians  never  use  blank  cartridges 
on  these  occasions,  the  precise  reason  for  which  I 
did  not  learn.  The  balls  dropped  in  the  water  all 
around  us,  and  it  would  seem  as  if  they  were  appa- 
rantly  trying  how  near  they  could  strike  to  the  canoes 
without  endangering  our  lives.  .  The  Sandy  Lake 
band  of  Indians  consists  at  present  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty  souls,  but  it  appears  to  have  been  much 
larger,  at  a  former  period.  Pike  states  the  numeri- 
cal force  of  this  band  in  1800,  at  three  hundred  and 
forty-eight,  forty-five  of  whom  were  warriors,  seven- 
ty-nine women,  and  two  hundred  and  twenty-four 
children.  The  principal  chief  is  Bookoo-sainge-gon, 
or  Broken  Arm.  It  is  also  the  residence  of  De 
Breche,  who  exercises  something  like  an  imperial 
sway  among  the  Chippeway  bands,  inhabiting  the 
sources  of  the  Mississippi.  This  band  subsists  by 
hunting  the  beaver,  otter,  muskrat,  moose,  marten, 


224 

wolverine,   and  black   and  silver  fox.      They  hav« 
neither  the  deer,  buffaloe,  or  elk.      In  the  fall  they 
gather  large  quantities  of  the  wild  rice,  which  is  the 
o»;Sy  bread  stufFofthe  region.     ISo  corn  is  ever  rais- 
ed.    Their  hunting  grounds  extend  east  to  the  Fond 
du  Lac  band  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior,  north  to 
the  Rainy  Lakes,  west  to  the  Leech  Lake  tribe,  and 
south  to  the  Mississippi  prairies  of  the  Sioux  coun- 
tries.    Like  all   the   erratic  bands  of  Chippeways, 
they  speak  the  Algonquin  language,  and  are  at  war 
with  the  Sioux.     The   remarks  that  are  applicable 
to  one  of  these  bands,  are  equally  so  to  all,  for  they 
exhibit    little  diversity    as  to  their  mode  of  living, 
dress,  habits,  and  opinions.     Notwithstanding  the  ad- 
vantages of  a  long  intercourse  with  Europeans,  they 
may  still  be  represented  as  exhibiting  human  society 
in  one  of  its  rudest  possible  forms,  and  remain  essen- 
tially without  agriculture,  without  arts,  and  without 
religion.     Their   physical  constitution   is  generally 
excellent.      Inhabiting  a  hardy  climate,  where  the 
influence  of  winter  is  experienced  eight  months  ia 
the  year,  they  have  acquired  a  hardihood  of body,— - 
a  patience  under  hunger  and  long  suffering, — and  a 
contempt  for  the  inclemencies  of  the  weather,  which 
is  peculiar  to  the  savage  tribes  of  the  north  ;  and  we 
uc  tempted  to  apply  to  them  the  remark  which  Po- 
libius   makes  concerning  the  Arcadians,   "  that  the 
cold  and  gloomy  climate  of  Arcadia,  gives  the  inhab- 
itants a  harsh  and   austere  aspect ;  ibr  it  is  natural 
that  men,  in  their  manners,  figure,  complexion,  and 
institutions,  should  resemble  their  climate."     They 
tear  also,   since  the   Six  Nations  have  dropped 
their  ancient  character,  to  possess  in  a  higher  de- 
cree, than  any  other   tribe,  that  heroic  contempt  of 


225 

death,  and  manly  fortitude  under  the  pressure  of  mis- 
fortune, which  is  so  finely  described  by  one  of  our 
colonial  poets, — 

"  Begin  ye  tormentors,  your  threats  are  in  vain, 
*'  For  the  sons  of  Alknomook  shall  never  complain." 

Fbenau. 

M  A  man,"  says  the  Baron  La  Hontan,  "  is  not 
a  man  with  us,  any  further  than  riches  will  make 
him  so  ;  but  among  them  the  true  qualifications  of  a 
man  are,  to  run  well, — to  hunt, — to  bend  the  bow, 
and  manage  the  fusee, — to  work  a  canoe, — to  under- 
stand war, — to  know  forests,- — to  subsist  upon  a  little, 
— to  build  cottages, — to  fell  trees,  and  to  be  able  to 
travel  an  hundred  leagues  in  a  wood,  without  any 
guide,  or  other  provision  than  his  bow  and  arrows."* 

Pike  states  the  collective  strength  of  the  Chippe- 
way  tribes  at  eleven  thousand  one  hundred  and  se- 
venty-seven, two  thousand  and  iorty-nine  of  whom  are 
warriors,  three  thousand  one  hundred  and  eighty-five 
women,  and  five  thousand  nine  hundred  and  forty- 
four  children.f  They  consist  of  innumerable  petty 
bands,  scattered  over  the  immense  region  from  De- 
troit to  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  and  the  Red 
River  of  Hudson's  Bay.  In  no  place  is  there 
any  large  body  permanently  located,  the  internal 
bands  generally  consist  of  from  thirty  to  sixty  war- 
riors. It  is  owing  to  this  great  distribution  of  foice, 
that  they  have  been  enabled  to  maintain  so  long 
and  successful  a  war  with  their  more  powerful 
neighbours,  the  Siou?,  for  it  has  been  a  defensive. 

*  La  Hontan's  Voyages,  Vol.  2.  p.  9. 

t  See  Pike's  Expeditious. 

29 


22o 

war  on  their  part;  and  by  living  in  small  detache<3 
bands,  they  have  rendered  the  superior  power  of  the 
Sioux  in  a  great  measure  useless,  and  have  been  en- 
abled to  evade  their  attacks,  and  often  to  foil  upon 
them  to  great  advantage.  They  have  relied  chiefly 
upon  their  cunning  and  dexterity,  while  the  Sioux 
have  placed  too  much  confidence  in  their  superi- 
or numbers.  "  This  nation,"  says  Liect.  Pike,  "  is 
more  mild  and  docile  than  the  Sioux ;  and  if  we  may 
judge  from  unprejudiced  observers,  more  cool  and 
deliberate  in  action;  but  the  latter  possess  a  much 
higher  sense  of  the  honour  of  their  nation  :  the  Chip- 
peways  plan  for  self-preservation.  The  Sioux  at- 
tack with  impetuosity  ;  the  others  defend  with  every 
necessary  precaution.  But  the  superior  number  of 
the  Sioux,  would  have  enabled  them  to  have  anni- 
hilated the  Chippeways  long  since,  had  it  not  been 
for  the  nature  of  their  country,  which  entirely  pre- 
cludes the  possibility  of  an  attack  on  horseback. 
Also,  gives  them  a  decided  advantage  over  an  ene- 
mv,  who.  being  half  armed  with  arrows,  the  least, 
tv. ;/  of  a  bush  turns  the  shaft  of  death  out  ot  its  di- 
fection.  Whereas,  the  whizzing  bullet  holds  it© 
course,  nor  spends  its  force  short  of  its  destined  vic- 
tim. Thus,  we  Generally  have  found,- that  when  en- 
gaged in  a  prairie,  the  Sioux  came  o(f  victorious  : 
but  if  in  the  woods,  even,  if  not  obliged  to  retreat, 
the  carcasses  of  their  slaughtered  brethren  shew 
bow  dearly  they  purchase  the  victory."  Very  few 
of  the  Chippeway  bauds  have  fixed  habitations,, 
and  their  erratic  disposition  appears  to  be  attri- 
butable, in  a  great  measure,  to  the  poverty  of  the 
regions  they  inhabit,  and  the  inclemency  of  their 
climate.      Throughout  a   great   proportion  of  th^r 


227 

region  no  corn  can  be  cultivated,  and  when  their 
game,  or  fish,  or  wild  rice  fails  them,  they  are 
compelled  to  change  their  residence  in  quest  of 
food.  All  the  bands  are  subject  to  their  own  chiefs, 
who  are  elected  for  their  superior  acquirements  as 
hunters,  warriors,  or  orators.  The  same  climate, 
however,  which  renders  them  a  scanty  subsistence, 
exempts  them  from  other  evils,  with  which  their 
southern  neighbours  are  afflicted.  Sickness  and  dis- 
ease are  almost  unknown  in  their  territories.  They 
are  wholly  exempted  from  the  bilious  complaints  of 
the  southern  latitudes  of  our  continent.  Their  mode 
of  life  also  favours  a  healthful  constitution  of  body, — 
open  air, — free  exercise, — without  exhausting  fa- 
tigue, and  a  simple  diet,  exempt  them  from  a  train  of 
diseases  incident  to  refined  society.  It  has  been  said 
that  their  wandering  mode  of  life,  and  the  rapidity 
of  their  marches  through  the  woods,  generally  proves 
fatal  to  such  as  are  stricken  by  age  or  infirmity ;  and 
that  ill-formed  children  are  destroyed  by  their  moth- 
ers in  infancy.  Nothing  has,  however,  been  observ- 
ed to  strengthen  this  opinion.  It  is  probable  indivi- 
dual cases  of  such  barbarity,  (and  those  of  extreme 
deformity,)  have  occurred,  but  there  does  not  appear 
to  prevail  any  general  custom  in  regard  to  it.  On 
the  contrary,  several  naturally  deformed  savages- 
which  we  have  seen,  appear  to  disprove  the  preva- 
lence of  such  a  custom,  or  may,  at  least,  be  looked 
upon  as  instances  of  the  humanity  and  attachment  of 
their  mothers. 

There  are  no  bands  of  the  northern  Indians  who  go 
entirely  without  clothes,  even  in  the  hottest  summer 
weather  ;  and  like  all  other  savages  they  possess  a 
great  fondness  for  grotesque  ornaments  of  feathers^ 


220 

skins,  bones,  and  claws  of  animals.  Thev  have  also 
an  unconquerable  passion  for  silver  bands,  beads, 
rings,  and  all  light,  showy,  and  fantastic  articles  of 
European  manufacture.  When  silver  cannot  be 
procured  thev  use  copper,  which  is  a  native  product 
of  the  region,  and  is  beaten  out  by  them  in  a  rude 
way  with  a  hatchet  upon  a  stone,  and  afterwards 
rubbed  smooth.  The  women  being  compelled  to 
do  the  work  and  drudgery  of  savage  life,  have  less 
opportunity  and  time  for  dress, but  their  taste,  in  this 
respect,  remains  the  same,  and  whenever  they  can 
procure  them,  dress  themselves  with  the  most  gaudy 
articles.  They  do  not,  however,  use  feathers,  an 
ornament  which  appears  exclusively  appropriated 
to  the  men  and  warriors.  The  great  occasions  which 
draw  them  out  in  all  their  finery,  are  war  and  feast- 
ing. War  and  feasting,  form,  however,  the  great  em- 
ployments of  savage  society,  when  it  has  not  been 
ameliorated  by  European  intercourse.  The  north- 
ern savages  play  several  games  at  cards,  and  have 
an  inordinate  passion  for  gambling,  which  carries 
them  to  such  excesses,  that  they  will  stake  their 
arm-bands,  rings,  and  other  articles  of  ornament,  or 
dress  This  practice  which  was  probably  first  intro- 
duced by  the  French  Couriers  du  Bois  is  attended 
by  all  the  bad  consequences,  without  any  of  the  ad- 
vantages resulting  from  it,  in  civilized  society — for 
they  never  play  for  amusement.  Hence  many  of 
their  quarrels  and  murders  are  attributable  to  gam- 
bling disputes. 

It  has  been  remarked  that  the  North  American 
Indians  have  tamed  no  wild  animals,  so  as  to  render 
them  subservient  to  the  purposes  of  domestic  econo- 
my.    To  this  remark  their  dogs  arc  a'?  exception. 


229 

rbr  they  appear  to  be  nothing  more  than  the  tamed 
wolf,  and  tamed  fox,  in  some  instances  a  mixed 
breed,  and  in  all  possessing  the  essential  characters 
of  these  two  animals.  1  hey  have  a  long  pointed 
head,  sharp  ears,  and  long  coarse  grey  hair,  and 
cannot  bark  in  the  manner  of  the  European  dog. 
This  has  given  Buffon  occasion  to  say,  that  dogs 
which  have  been  transported  from  Europe  to  Ame- 
rica, suffer  so  much  under  the  deteriorating  influ- 
ence of  our  climate,  that  they  completely  loose  the 
power  of  barking.  The  domesticated  wolf,  or  Indian 
dog,  has  a  sullen  growl,  and  where  there  is  no  inter- 
mixture, retains  its  primitive  howl,  which  it  is  easy 
to  distinguish  from  that  of  the  true  dog. 

Notwithstanding  the  abundance  of  wild  Hcp  in 
this  region,  there  is  a  great  part  of  the  year  that  they 
subsist  without  this  article,  owing  to  their  want  of 
industry  and  foresight  in  gathering  a  sufficient  quan- 
tity before  it  is  destroyed  by  the  myriads  of  aquatic 
fowl,  which  it  attracts;  and  also  to  their  improvidence 
in  living  riotously  upon  it  in  the  harvest  season,  without 
thinking  of  the  coming  winter.  The  bands  of  Chip- 
pevvays  and  Ottaways  inhabiting  the  peninsula  of 
Michigan,  plant  corn.  Northwest  of  I  he  Sault  de  St. 
Marie,  the  Indians  may  be  represented  as  wholly 
without  agriculture.  When  their  wild  rice  is  gone, 
they  rely  chiefly  upon  the  fish  which  are  abundant 
in  all  the  northern  lakes.  Hunting  is  less  an  object 
to  procure  meat,  than  to  procure  furs,  the  animals 
being  mostly  of  the  small  and  well-furred  kind.  In 
times  of  great  scarcity,  they  resort  to  several  roots, 
of  an  alimentary  character,  afforded  by  the  region, 
and  which  like  the  manioc  of  the  native  Brizilians, 
supplies  the  place  of  bread.     The  principal  of  these 


230 

Lt>  the  Indian  potatoe,  a  production  that  remains  un- 
noticed in  American  Botany.  What  analogy  it  bears, 
if  any,  to  the  tuckaho  of  the  southern  states,  of  which 
a  description  has  lately  been  read  before  the  New- 
York  Lyceum,  by  Dr.  John  Torrey,  I  am  unable  to 
say.  When  caught  without  this  resource,  and  game 
failing,  they  are  often  known  to  gather  up  the 
bleached  bones  in  the  woods,  and  by  long  boiling  in 
water,  extract  some  nutritive  matter,  which  is  drank 
in  the  form  of  a  soup.  In  desperate  cases,  they  also 
collect  the  river  and  lake  muscles,  which  are  eaten, 
after  having  be§§  previously  boiled.  These  are  con- 
sidered by  the  Indians  the  most  insipid  food  which 
they  are  ever  driven  by  necessity  to  make  use  of. 
There  isa  species  of  lichen,  in  some  parts  of  the  coun- 
try, which  is  also  sometimes  eaten,  itiscalledwc/acby 
the  Indians,  and  Tripe  dc  Roche  by  the  French,  and 
is  eaten,  after  being  boiled  down  to  the  consistence 
of  a  mucilage.  They  are  the  only  tribes  of  American 
Indians  who  live  without  salt,  their  country  arlord- 
i.ig  no  brine-springs,  and  being  either  unable  to  buy 
from  the  traders,  or  wanting  the  opportunity.  Such  is 
the  miserable  life  which  these  people  live,  owing  to 
the  dreariness  of  the  climate,  the  want  of  agriculture, 
and  their  own  improvidence. 

The  custom  of  painting  their  bodies  is  character- 
istic of  all  savage  tribes.  The  native  Britons  former- 
ly practised  it.  Those  of  the  island  of  St.  Salvador, 
when  Columbus  first  landed  in  the  new  world,  were 
found  to  paint  grotesque  figures  and  ornaments  upon 
their  bodies.  The  native  Brazilians, — the  inhabi- 
tants of  .New-Holland,  and  Van  Dieman's  Land,  and 
all  the  tribes  of  North  America,  are  more  or  less  in 
the  practice  of  employing  paint  upon  their  faces.  an<J 


231 

tfther  parts  of  their  bodies,  either  with  a  view  6£ 
rendering  themselves  more  attractive  to  their  friends, 
or  more  terrible  to  their  enemies.  The  northern 
tribes  use  it  upon  all  occasions.  The  substances 
employed  are  ochres,  clays,  native  oxyds  of  iron, 
bole,  and  some  other  minerals,  the  production  o£ 
their  country.  The  Sioux  procure  a  tine  green  co- 
loured clay,  on  the  banks  of  the  St.  Peters,  which 
is  highly  esteemed.  They  have  also  a  white  and  ted 
clay,  and  a  fine  red  oxide  of  iron,  which  are  much 
employed,  and  by  their  admixture,  they  are  ena- 
bled to  paint  themselves  of  almost  any  colour. 
Red  is  the  colour  with  which  they  decorate  them- 
selves on  goin<x  to  war,  and  for  this  purpose  vermi- 
lion is  sold  them  by  the  traders  at  the  rate  of  eight 
dollars  per  pound.  Black,  is  used  when  they  mourn 
the  loss  of  relatives,  and  for  this  purpose  lampblack, 
or  soot,  mixed  with  bears  oil,  is  employed. 

Of  the  state  of  female  society  among  the  northern 
Indians,  I  shall  say  little,  because  on  a  review  of  it,  I 
find  very  little  to  admire,  either  in  their  collective 
morality,  or  personal  endowments.  The  savage 
state  is  universally  found  to  display  itself  in  the  most 
striking  degree  in  the  situation,  dress,  personal  ac- 
complishments, and  employments  of  females,  and 
these  evidences  may  be  looked  upon  as  unerring  in- 
dexes to  the  degree  of  civilization, — to  the  mental 
powers,  and  to  the  moral  refinements  of  the  other  sex. 
Doomed  to  drudgery  and  hardship  from  infancy, — 
without  the  elegance  of  dress,— without  either  mental 
resources,  or  personal  beauty, — what  can  be  said  in 
favour  of  the  Indian  women  !  The  custom  of  bind- 
ing the  feet  of  female  infants  in  such  a  manner  as  to 
make  the  toes  point  inwards,  gives  them  in  after  life 


232 

a  very  awkward  appearance  in  walking  ;  and  in  re- 
gard to  the  absence  of  female  beauty,  I  am  notable, 
from  my  own  observations,  to  make  a  single  excep- 
tion. 

That  exceptions  exist,  however,  among  some  of 
the  northern  tribes,  we  have  the  authority  of  M'Ken* 
zie,  for  asserting.  "  Of  all  the  nations,'' he  remarks, 
"  which  I  have  seen  on  this  continent,  the  Knistenaux 
women  are  the  most  comely.  Their  figure  is  gene- 
rally well  proportioned,  and  the  regularity  of  their 
features  would  he  acknowledged  by  the  more  civi- 
lized people  of  Europe.  Their  complexion  has  less 
of  that  dark  tinge,  which  is  common  to  those  sava- 
ges who  have  less  cleanly  habits. 

"It  does  not  appear,  however,"  he  continues,  "that 
chastity  is  considered  by  them  as  a  virtue;  or  that 
fidelity  is  believed  to  be  essential  to  the  happiness 
of  wedded  life.  Though  it  sometimes  happens,  that 
Hie  infidelity  of  a  wife  is  punished  by  the  husband, 
with  the  loss  of  her  hair,  nose,  and  perhaps  life ;  such 
severity  proceeds  from  its  having  been  practised 
without  his  permission  :  for  a  temporary  interchange 
of  wives  is  not  uncommon ;  and  the  offer  of  their 
persons,  is  considered  as  a  necessary  part  of  the 
hospitality  due  to  strangers. 

"  When  a  man  looses  his  wife,  it  is  considered  as 
a  duty  to  marry  her  sister,  if  she  has  one;  or  he 
may,  if  he  pleases,  have  them  both  at  the  same 
time."* 

We  here  first  observed  a  custom  which  is  preva- 
lent among  the  northern  bands,  of  inclosing  their 
dead  in  coffins  bound  around  with  bark,  and  expos- 

*  M'Kenzie's  Voyages  to  the  Frozen  and  Pacific  Oceans,  p. 
66. 


233 

ing  them  on  scaffolds  ten  or  fifteen  feet  in  the  air. 
This  custom  is  said  to  have  been  borrowed  by  them 
from  the  Sioux,  who  have  practised  it  from  the  ear- 
liest times.  It  is  not  now  universal  among  the  Chip- 
peways,  and  they  frequently  bury  their  dead  in  the 
European  manner.  In  this  case,  however,  a  roof  is 
built  over  the  grave,  which  is  closed  all  around,  ex- 
cept at  the  head,  where  a  hole  is  cut  through  the 
bark  large  enough  to  put  in  a  wrooden  dish,  with 
meats  for  the  use  of  the  dead.  If  a  warrior  dies,  his 
war  club  and  other  weapons  and  ornaments,  are  bu- 
ried with  him,  as  it  is  supposed,  he  will  require  them 
in  another  world.  If  it  is  a  woman  that  dies,  a  pad- 
dle and  carrying  strap  are  buried  with  her,  that 
she  may  perform  the  same  drudgery  in  a  future 
state  she  is  required  to  do  in  this.  This  certainly 
implies  some  notion  of  immortality,  but  they  do  not 
appear  to  have  any  distinct  conceptions  of  the  bo- 
dy and  soul.  It  is  difficult  indeed  to  reduce  their 
opinions  to  any  settled  points.  It  is  only  certain  that 
they  expect  to  live  hereafter  in  a  country  far  more 
beautiful  and  delightful  than  the  present, — where 
there  will  be  perpetual  spring, — where  game  will 
be  plenty,— and  where  all  the  implements  they  have 
made  use  of  in  this  life,  will  be  required  as  the 
means  of  ensuring  them  a  support.  This  idea  has 
been  seized  upon,  in  one  of  the  most  happy  moments 
of  the  poet  of  Twickenham. 

*'•  Lo,  the  poor  Indian,  whose  untutored  mind 
"  Sees  God  in  clouds,  or  hears  him  in  the  wind  j 
(<  His  soul  proud  science  never  taught  to  stray 
li  Far  as  the  solar  walk,  or  milky  way ; 
"  Yet  simple  nature  to  his  hope  has  giv'n, 
"  Behind  the  cloud-topt  hill,  an  humbler  heav'n  j 
30 


234 

u  Some  safer  world  in  depth  of  woods  embraced, 

"  Some  happier  island  in  the  watery  waste, 

"  Where  slaves  once  more  their  native  land  behold, 

"  No  fiends  torment, — no  Christians  thirst  for  gold. 

(i  To  be, — contents  his  natural  desire, 

"  He  asks  no  angel's  wing,  no  seraph's  fire  ; 

"  But  thinks,  admitted  to  that  r-qual  sky, 

,f  His  faithful  dog  shall  bear  him  company."        Pope, 

LIV.  Day. — (July  1 6th.) — A  council  was  held  this 
morning  with  the  Sandy-Lake  Indians,  at  their  own 
solicitation,  and  several  speeches  presented  to  Gov. 
Cass,  as  the  representative  of  the  president  of  the 
United  States,  who  is  addressed  by  the  title  of 
"  Great  Father."  These  speeches,  as  they  have 
been  interpreted  to  us,  do  not  possess  the  charac- 
teristic eloquence  of  Indian  oratory,  although  appa- 
rently delivered  by  the  Indians  in  a  very  impassion- 
ed and  animated  manner.  But  it  appears,  at  least 
in  these  instances,  that  they  do  not  "  suit  the  ac- 
tion to  the  word  and  the  word  to  the  action,"  as 
what  we  have  supposed  to  be  the  most  impassion- 
ed eloquence  when  heard  in  the  Indian  tongue, 
has  turned  out,  when  translated,  to  be  a  tissue  of 
common  place  ideas,  without  passion,  eloquence,  or 
figures.  As  one  of  the  best  specimens  of  the  speech- 
es which  have  generally  been  addressed  to  the  Gov- 
ernor, during  our  progress  through  this  region,  the 
following  is  presented. 

"  Father, — We  are  glad  you  have  come  among 
us,  to  see  how  we  live,  and  what  kind  of  a  country 
we  inhabit,  and  to  tell  these  things  to  our  Great  Fa- 
ther, the  President. 

"Father,  you  see  us  here, — we  are  poor, — we 
want  every  thing, — we  have  neither  knives  or  blan- 


235 

kets, — guns  or  powder, — lead  or  cloth, — kettles  or 
tomahawks, — tobacco  or  whiskey. — We  hope  you 
will  give  us  these  things. 

"  Father,  we  are  glad  that  the  President  has  thought 
proper  to  send  you  among  us, — we  are  glad  to  see 
his  flag  wave  upon  this  lake, — we  are  his  children, 
— he  is  our  Father, — we  smoke  the  same  pipe, — we 
take  hold  of  the  same  tomahawk, — we  are  insepa- 
rable friends.  It  shall  never  be  said  that  the  Chip- 
peways  are  ungrateful.  Father,  depend  upon  this, 
and  take  this  pipe  of  peace  as  a  pledge  of  our  sin- 
cerity. 

"  Father,  we  are  of  the  race  of  strong  men, — of 
good  warriors,  and  good  hunters,  but  we  cannot  al- 
ways kill  game,  or  catch  fish. — We  can  live  a  great 
while  upon  a  little,  but  we  cannot  live  upon  nothing. 

"  Father,  our  wild  rice  is  all  eaten  up, — the  buffa- 
loes live  in  the  land  of  our  enemies,  the  Sioux, — we 
are  hungry,  and  naked, — we  are  dry  and  needy. — 
We  hope  you  will  relieve  us. 

"  Father,  the  President  of  the  United  States  is  a 
very  great  man,  even  like  a  lofty  pine  upon  the 
mountain's  top. — You  are  also  a-  great  man, — and 
the  Americans  are  a  great  people.  Can  it  be  pos- 
sible they  will  allow  us  to  suffer  !" 

Governor  Cass  proposed  to  negociate  a  peace  be- 
tween them  and  the  Sioux.  They  readily  assented, 
and  are  to  send  some  of  their  old  men  as  embassa- 
dors to  accompany  us  to  the  Falls  ot  St.  Anthony* 
on  our  return  from  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi. 

The  following  tables  present  a  view  of  the  state 
©f  the  weather, — the  stationary  distances, — and  the 
elevation  of  the  country  between  the  Fond  du  Lac 
and  Sandy  Lake. 


236 


KQUR  1, 


M 

m 

EL 

)R< 

OL 

OC 

*rIC 

^2 

,  OBSERVATIONS. 

Atmospheric  Temperature. 

6 

ja 

i 

64 

,.. 

A.  M.      |        P.  M. 

WINDS 

WEATHER. 

61  71  8|12|  i|  5|  6\  7\  8|  9 

July  6th 

68 

78 

54 

NE. 

Clear.          1 

7th 

66 

71 

65 

67 

NE. 

TTne- 

Rain. 

8th 

63 

80 

64 

69 

Clear  &  warm. 

9th  57 

75 

53 

6l 

ENE. 

Clear. 
Rainy. 

10th 

53 

72 

51 

— 

— 

— 

58 
56 
58 

NE. 

11th 

51 

— 

6b 

— 

49 
50 

VVNW 

Cloudy  &  cool. 

12th 

53 

NW. 

Showery&cloud. 

13th 

42 

71 

58 

— 

58 

NW. 

Clear. 

14th 

67 

80 

— 

64 

70 

NW. 

Clear. 

15th 

50 

64 

7* 
71 

53 

65 

NW. 

Cloudy  with  rain. 

16th 

50 

57 

NNW- 

Fair. 

11(683 


67°  mean  daily  temp. 


STATIONARY  DISTANCES. 


Miles.    Tot.  Miles. 


From  the  South -West  Company's  House,  to  the  foot 

of  the  Grand  Portage,  2 

To  the  Galley,             '-            -            -            -  2  4 

To  the  head  of  Grand  Portage,             -            -  7  11 

To  the  foot  of  the  Portage  aux  Coteaux,            -  6  17 

To  the  head  of            do.                      -            •  H  18} 
To  the  mouth  of  Savannah  river,  as  detailed  in 

DayLII.  -  -  -  -  56i  75 
To  the  commencement  of  the  Savannah  Portage,  24  99 
Length  of  Savannah  Portage,  6  105 
To  Sandy  Lake,  at  the  discharge  of  the  West  Sa- 
vannah, 18  123 
South- West  Company's  Fort,  on  Sandy  Lake,  3  126 


Feet. 

Total  Feet, 

4 

8 

12 

220 

232 

237 

ELEVATION  OF  THE  COUNTRY. 

Estimated  fall  of  the  St.  Louis  River,  from  the  head 
of  Lake  Superior  to  the  South- West  Company '3 
House,  24  miles,  at  2  inches  per  mile, 

Thence  to  the  Galley,  4  miles, 

To  the  head  of  the  Grand  Portage, 

To  the  foot  of  the  Portage  aux  Coteaux,  2  leagues, 

at  3  feet  per  mile,         -  -  -  -         18       250 

To  the  head  of  the  Portage  aux  Coteaux,  (falls  not 
included,)  - 

Coteaux  Falls,  - 

Thence  to  the  mouth  of  the  Savannah  River,  as  es- 
timated by  Dr.  Wolcott,  see  Day  LII. 

Thence  to  the  Savannah  Portage, 

Thence  to  the  head  of  the  West  Savannah, 

Descent  of  the  West  Savannah. 
From  the  place  of  embarkation  to  the  first  Rapid,  4 

miles,  at  6  inches  per  mile, 
Descent  of  the  first  Rapid, 
To  the  head  of  the  second  Rapid,  8  miles,  at  6  inches 

per  mile,  - 

Descent  of  the  second  Rapid, 
Thence  to  the  level  of  Sandy  Lake, 

Elevation  of  Sandy  Lake  above  Lake  Superior?       Feet    527 


28 

278 

14 

292 

212.6 

504.6 

18 

522.6 

30 

550.6 

2 

5 

7 

is 
4 

11 

8 

19 

4.6 

23.6 

CHAPTER  IX. 

JOURNEY, 


FROM  SANDY  LAKE  TO  THE  SOURCES  OF  THE  MIS- 
SISSIPPI. 


,Ki 


LV.  Day.— {July  llth.) 

W  E  left  the  fort  at  half  past  nine  in  the  morning, 
in  three  canoes,  manned  by  nineteen  voyageurs  and 
Indians,  and  provisioned  for  twelve  days.  Our  par- 
ty now,  exclusive  of  the  wrorking  men,  consisted  of 
Governor  Cass,  Dr.  Wolcott,  Capt.  Douglass,  Lieut. 
Mackay,  Maj.  Forsyth,  and  myself.  The  balance 
of  the  expedition, — men,  baggage,  and  canoes,  was 
left  at  the  Company's  establishment.  A  mile  from 
the  fort  we  entered  the  mouth  of  Sandy  Lake  River, 
which  discharges  into  the  Mississippi,  two  miles 
below.  Its  course  is  winding,  and  near  its  junction 
with  the  Mississippi,  it  has  a  rapid  where  the  water 
descends  three  feet  in  sixty  yards.  On  entering  the 
Mississippi,  we  found  a  strong  current, — reddish  wa- 
ter, a  little  turbid, — some  snags  and  drifts, — and 
alluvial  hanks,  elevated  from  four  to  eight  feet,  bear- 
ing a  forest  of  elm,  maple,  oak,  poplar,  pine,  and  ash. 
The  elm  predominates  ;  maple  and  oak  are  com- 
mon,— pine,  ash,  and  poplar,  sparing.  The  river 
has  a  width  of  sixty  yard?,  and  the  shores  are  skirl- 


239 

ed  with  bull  rushes,  foille  avoine,  and  tufts  of  wil- 
low. In  the  course  of  the  day  we  passed  the  fol- 
lowing rapids,  numbered  and  estimated  from  the 
mouth  of  Sandy  Lake  River. 

1st  Rapid,  3  miles,  descent  2  feet  in        50  yards 
2d      -      4  -  5  200    - 

3d       -       3  -  6  100     - 

4th     -      1  -  1    foot  in        50    - 

5th     -      5  -  7     feet  in      100    - 

6th     •     11  -  8  200    - 

We  encamped  twenty  miles  above  the  sixth  rapid 
at  eight  o'clock  in  the  evening,  having  been  eleven 
hours  in  our  canoes,  and  progressed  forty-six  miles. 
The  weather  has  been  variable. — At  day  light  there 
was  a  violent  wind,  attended  with  rain,  which  ceas- 
ed at  nine  o'clock. — Cloudy  all  day, — sun  shone  out 
hot  at  one  o'clock, — then  a  shower ;  cloudy  and 
cool  in  the  evening.  The  river  has  received  no 
tributary  streams  ;  no  islands  have  been  encounter- 
ed, nor  have  any  hills  been  seen,  but  the  country  is 
low,  and  swampy  at  a  short  distance  from  the  river. 
Detached  stones  of  hornblende,  sand  stone,  and 
granite,  appear  upon  the  rapids.  The  musquitoes 
have  been  very  troublesome. 

LVI.  Day. — {July  18th.) — There  was  a  shower  of 
rain  during  the  night, — it  ceased  at  four  o'clock. 
We  embarked  at  five, — the  weather  remained  clou- 
dy and  misty.  On  ascending  one  mile,  we  passed 
Swan  "River,  which  enters,  by  a  mouth  of  twenty 
yards  wide,  on  the  right  shore.  Loose  rocks  ap- 
pear in  the  water  at  its  mouth.  This  stream  is  sixty 
miles  long,  and  originates  in  Swan  Lake,  in  which 
trout  are  caught.  It  is  rapid  for  a  distance,  but  ex- 
pands to  a  great  width  towards  its  source,  where  it 


210 

has  a  still  current,  and  abounds  in  wild  rice.  Thir- 
teen leagues  above  we  passed  Rapid  No.  7,  where 
the  water  falls  three  feet  in  a  hundred  and  fifty 
yards.  Trout  river  enters  six  miles  higher,  on 
the  right  side.  It  is  about  thirty  feet  wide  at  its 
mouth,  but  deep,  and  widens  above.  It  origin- 
ates in  Trout  Lake,  and  is  connected  with  Swan 
River  near  its  source.  Prairie  River  is  four 
miles  above,  and  enters  on  the  same  side.  It  is 
ninety  feet  wide  at  its  mouth, — has  a  considerable 
rapid  three  miles  above,  but  may  be  ascended  with 
canoes,  through  an  open  prairie  country,  ninety  miles. 
It  communicates,  by  short  portages,  with  one  of  the 
western  tributaries  of  St.  Louis  river,  and  with 
Swan  river.  We  encamped  on  a  sand  bank,  five 
hundred  yards  above  its  entrance,  having  progress- 
ed fifty-one  miles.  The  current  of  the  Mississippi 
river,  this  day,  has  been  strong,  and  a  number  of 
snags  and  drifts  have  been  encountered.  The  velo- 
city is  computed,  by  Captain  Douglass,  at  2f  miles 
per  hour.  The  timber  has  been  much  the  same  as 
yesterday, — elm  and  maple  predominate.  In  the 
afternoon  we?  passed  several  ridges  of  pine  land 
elevated  twenty  or  thirty  feet  above  the  water, — and 
a  few  miles  below  Trout  river,  came  through  a  fo- 
rest of  burnt  dead  pines,  which  continue  about 
three  miles  on  either  shore.  The  general  course  of 
the  river  is  west  of  north  ;  it  is  very  serpentine,  and 
the  curves  short,  seldom  exceeding  a  mile, — the 
width  of  the  river  has  been  less  than  yesterday,  and 
may  be  computed  to  average  forty  yards.  Tufts  of 
willow,  grass,  and  wild  rice,  skirt  the  water's  edge. 
No  islands  or  rock  strata  arc  seen, — detached  stones, 


241 

such  as  were  yesterday  noticed,  appear  in  the  bed 
of  the  stream  at  the  rapids,  and  occasionally  along 
the  shore.  The  banks  are  the  most  recent  kind  of 
alluvion,  in  which  very  minute  shining  particles  of 
mica  are  seen.  The  common  fresh  water  muscle  is 
very  abundant  along  the  shore,  and  some  of  an  ex- 
traordinary size.  Ducks  and  plover  have  been  con- 
tinually in  sight. — The  robin,  (turdus  migrator  his) 
brown  thrush,  blackbird,  crow,  and  water  loon,  have 
also  been  noticed.  It  is  not  a  region  favourable  to 
serpents,  and  the  Indians  say  that  the  common  garter, 
(coluber  wstivus,)  and  water  snake,  are  the  only  spe- 
cies known.  The  weather  continued  cloudy  ami 
cool  during  the  day,  and  very  chilly  at  night.  '  The 
musquitoes  have  been  less  annoying  in  consequence. 

LVII.  Day. — (July  \9ih.) — The  night  was  so  cold 
that  water  froze  upon  the  bottoms  of  our  canoes,  and 
they  were  encrusted  with  a  scale  of  ice  of  the  thick- 
ness of  a  knife  blade.  The  thermometer  stood  at 
36°  at  sun-rise.  There  was  a  very  heavy  dew  dur- 
ing the  night,  and  a  dense  fog  in  the  morning.  The 
forenoon  remained  cloudy  and  chilly.  Six  miles 
above  our  encampment  we  passed  the  eighth  Rapid, 
where  the  water  falls  two  feet  in  a  hundred  yards ; 
and  half  a  mile  above,  the  ninth  Rapid,  which  con- 
sists of  a  series  of  small  rapids,  extending  a  thou- 
sand yards,  in  the  course  of  which,  there  is  an  aggre- 
gate fall  of  sixteen  feet.  Four  miles  above  the  ter- 
mination of  the  ninth  Rapid,  we  landed  at  the  foot 
of  the  falls  of  Peckagama,  where  the  river  has  a  de- 
scent of  twenty  feet  in  three  hundred  yards.  This 
forms  an  interruption  to  the  navigation,  and  there  is 

31 


212 

a  portage  around  the  talis,  of  two  hundred  and  seven- 
ty-five yards.  The  Mississippi,  at  this  fall  is  com- 
pressed to  a  eighty  feet  in  width,  and  precipitated 
over  a  rugged  bed  of  sand  stone,  highly  inclined  to- 
wards the  northeast.  There  is  no  perpendicular 
pitch,  but  the  river  rushes  down  a  rocky  channel, 
inclined  at  an  angle  of  from  35°  to  40°.  The  view- 
is  wild  and  picturesque.  Immediately  at  the  head 
of  the  falls  is  the  first  island  noticed  in  the  river.  It 
is  small,  rocky, — covered  with  spruce  and  cedar, — 
and  divides  the  channel  nearly  in  its  centre,  at  the 
point  where  the  fall  commences.  In  crossing  this 
portage,  I  observed  the  small  bush-whortleberry, 
(yaccinium  dumosum.)  A  portion  of  the  berries 
were  already  ripe.  After  passing  the  falls  of  Pec- 
kagama,  a  striking  change  is  witnessed  in  the  cha- 
racter of  the  country.  We  appear  to  have  attain- 
ed the  summit  level  of  waters.  The  forests  of  maple, 
elm,  and  oak,  cease,  and  the  river  winds  in  the  most 
devious  manner  through  an  extensive  prairie,  cover- 
ed with  tall  grass,  wild  rice,  and  rushes.  This  prai- 
rie has  a  mean  width  of  three  miles,  and  is  bounded 
by  ridges  of  dry  sand,  of  moderate  elevation,  and 
covered  sparingly  with  yellow  pine.  Sometimes  the 
river  washes  close  against  one  of  these  sand  ridges. 
— their*  turns  into  the  centre  of  the  prairie,  or  cross- 
es to  the  opposite  side ;  but  nothing  can  equal  its 
sinuosities, — we  move  towards  all  points  of  the  com- 
pass in  the  same  hour, — and  we  appear  to  be  wind- 
ing about  in  an  endless  labyrinth,  without  approach- 
ing nearer  to  the  object  in  view.  In  one  instance, 
we  rowed  nine  miles  by  the  windings  of  the  stream, 
and  advanced  but  one  mile  in  a  direct  line.  While 
sitting  in  our  canoes,  in  the  centre  of  this  prairie. 


243 

the  rank  growth  of  grass,  rushes,  kc.  completely  hid 
the  adjoining  forests  from  view,  and  it  appeared  as 
if  we  were  lost  in  a  boundless  field  of  waving  grass. 
Nothing  was  to  be  seen  but  the  sky  above,  and  the 
lofty  fields  of  nodding  grass,  oats,  and  reeds  upon 
each  side  of  the  stream.  The  monotony  of  the  view 
can  only  be  conceived  by  those  who  have  been 
at  sea, — and  we  turned  away  with  the  same  kind  of 
interest  to  admire  the  birds,  and  water  fowl,  who 
have  chosen  this  region,  for  their  abode.  The  cur- 
rent of  the  river  is  gentle,  its  velocity  not  exceed- 
ing one  mile  per  hour: — its  width  is  about  eighty 
feet.  It  receives  a  tributary  from  the  left  at  the  dis- 
tance of  forty  miles  above  the  falls  of  Peckagama. 
called  Vermilion  river,  and  three  miles  above,  an- 
other called  Chevreuil,  or  Deer  river,  from  the  right, 
bank.  We  encamped  upon  the  prairie,  six  miley 
above  Chevreuil  river,  at  a  late  hour,  having  ascend- 
ed  sixty  miles.  Ducks  have  been  abundant  through- 
out the  day.  We  saw  no  plover  in  the  prairies,  al- 
though they  were  common  below.  The  black- 
bird has  been  constantly  in  sight,  and  the  small 
white  gull,  such  as  is  common  upon  the  lakes,  has 
been  so  abundant  as  to  annoy  our  progress,  parti- 
cularly by  its  scream,  which  is  harsh  and  unplea- 
sant. These  birds  had  their  nests  all  along  the 
banks,  and  were  constantly  alarmed  for  their  youno\ 
The  loon,  the  wild  goose,  and  the  heron,  have  also 
been  observed.  The  weather  has  been  cloudy, 
with  occasional  gleams  of  sunshine,  and  chilly  to- 
wards evening.  At  the  place  of  our  encampment 
we  found  a  very  delicious  species  of  red  raspberry, 
growing  upon  a  small  bush  of  the  size  of  a  straw- 
berry vine.    Here  also,  as  night  approached,  we 


244 

first  noticed  the  fire  fly,  which  has  not  before  been 
seen  upon  the  Mississippi. 

LVflf.  Day.— (Jiffy  20th.')— We  had  rain  during 
the  night, — the  morning  was  cloudy,  with  a  heavy 
fog.  We  embarked  at  half  past  five;  our  route  lay 
through  a  prairie  country,  similar  in  every  respect 
to  that  yesterday  passed.  At  the  distance  of  ten 
miles  we  passed  the  mouth  of  Leech  river,  entering 
on  the  left.  This  is  the  main  southwestern  fork  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  is  ascended  about  fifty  miles,  to 
its  source,  in  Leech  lake,  where  the  American  fur 
company  have  an  establishment.  This  lake  is  twelve 
miles  across,  and  was  considered,  by  Lieut.  Pike,  as 
the  main  source  of  the  Mississippi.  "  The  fort,"  he 
observes,  "  is  situated  on  the  west  side  of  the  lake, 
in  47°  16'  13"  north  latitude.  It  is  built  near  the 
shore,  on  the  declivity  of  a  rising  ground,  having  an 
inclosed  garden,  of  about  five  acres,  on  the  north- 
west. It  is  a  square  stockade,  of  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet, — the  pickets  being  sixteen  feet  in  length, 
three  feet  under  ground,  and  thirteen  feet  above, 
- — and  are  bound  together  by  horizontal  bars,  each 
ten  feet  long.  Pickets  often  feet  are  likewise  drove 
into  the  ground,  on  the  inside  of  the  work,  opposite 
*iiie  apertures  between  the  large  pickets.  At  the 
west  and  east  angles  are  bastions  pierced  for  fire 
arms."*  The  Leech  lake  band  of  Chippeways 
are  located  in  the  vicinity  of  the  fort.  It  consists 
of  one  thousand  one  hundred  and  twenty  souls,  one 
hundred  and  fifty  of  whom  are  warriors.  The  prin- 
cipal   chiefs    are    Eskibu gecko grc,    or,    Flat-Mouth. 

•'  J'ike's  Exoedilions. 


245 

Obiguctte,  or  the  chief  of  the  Land,  and  Oole,  or  the 
Burnt.  They  hunt  the  beaver,  marten,  muskrat, 
otter,  and  black  fox.  The  moose  is  sometimes  kill- 
ed. They  subsist  chiefly  upon  the  flesh  of  these  an- 
imals, and  obtain  European  and  American  fabrics 
in  exchange  for  their  furs.  Their  neighbours  are 
the  Assenniboins,  (a  revolted  band  of  the  Sioux,) 
on  the  west, — the  Upper  Red  Cedar,  and  Red  Lake 
tribes  of  Chippeways,  on  the  north, — and  the  Sandy 
Lake  Indians  on  the  east  and  south.  Leech-lake 
river  runs  its  whole  length  through  a  savannah, — is 
very  serpentine, — and  in  many  places  not  more  than 
ten  or  fifteen  yards  wide,  although  it  has  a  depth  of 
twelve  or  fifteen  feet.  The  current  of  the  Missis- 
sippi river,  above  its  junction,  is  perceptibly  strong- 
er, and  the  water  quite  clear.  The  bends  are  also 
more  abrupt,  and  the  width  of  the  stream  a  little 
more  than  half  what  it  maintains  below.  It  may  be 
estimated  above  the  Leech-lake  branch,  at  sixty 
feet,  but  still  preserves  a  good  depth.  From  Sandy 
lake  river,  to  the  falls  of  Peckagama,  the  mean  fall 
of  the  river  may  be  estimated  at  six  inches  per  mile, 
exclusive  of  the  rapids  ; — from  thence  to  the  con- 
fluence of  the  Leech-lake  branch,  at  tw  o  inches  per 
mile,  and  thence  to  Lake  Winnipec,  at  four  inches 
per  mile. 

At  the  distance  of  thirty-five  miles  above  Leech 
river,  we  entered  Little  lake  Winnipec,  which  is 
about  five  miles  long,  and  three  in  width.  The  wa- 
ter is  clear.  Its  shores  are  low  and  marshy,  covered 
with  rushes,  spear  grass,  and  wild  rice,  which  in 
some  places  extend  quite  across  the  lake,  giving  it 
rather  the  appearance  of  a  marsh.  On  passing 
through  this,  the  river  again  assumes  the  size  and 


246 

genera!  appearance  it  had  below,  for  a  distance  of 
ten  miles,  when  it  opens  into  a  spacious  bay,  which 
is  the  northeastern  extremity  of  the  Upper  lake 
Winnipec.  We  proceeded  through  this,  and  en- 
camped on  the  north  shore  of  the  lake,  at  the  mouth 
of  Turtle  Portage  river.  Lake  Winnipec  is  about 
fourteen  miles  loco-  by  nine  in  width,  and  its  waters 
are  deep  and  transparent.  Its  shores  are  generally 
low  and  covered,  at  the  water's  edge,  with  rushes, 
and  wild  oats.  Upon  its  banks  we  find  oak,  maple, 
poplar,  birch,  and  white  pine.  It  receives  four  tribu- 
taries, Turtle  Portage  river,  Round  Lake  river, 
Thornberry  river,  and  an  inlet  from  the  southwest, 
which  being  somewhat  larger  than  the  others,  pre- 
serves the  name  of  the  Mississippi.  Turtle  Portage 
river,  communicates  through  several  intermediate 
little  lakes,  with  the  Rainy  lakes,  and  the  Lake  of 
the  Woods.  The  journey  to  the  Upper  Rainy  Lake 
is  performed  in  eight  days,  and  from  thence  to  the 
Lake  of  the  Woods  in  ten  days. 

Round  Lake  river  is  the  outlet  of  a  lake  which  is 
connected  by  its  higher  tributaries,  with  the  waters 
of  Turtle  Portage  river,  and  the  Rainy  Lakes. 
Thornberry  river,  or  La  riviere  des  Epinettes,  is 
smaller  than  the  two  former,  and  is  not  ascended 
any  considerable  distance  in  canoes.  Its  origin 
is  also  in  lakes.  The  Mississippi  branch  is  naviga- 
ble fifty  miles  to  its  source  in  the  Upper  Red  Cedar 
Lake. 

On  passing  through  Little  Lake  Winnipec,  we  met 
a  couple  of  Indian  women  in  a  canoe,  being  the  first 
natives  seen  on  the  river,  of  whom  our  interpreter 
made  enquiry  as  to  the  course  of  the  river,  and  the 

i  u re  of  the  country  above.     They  manifested  n© 


247 

afarna  on  our  approach,  and  communicated  what 
they  knew  frankly  and  without  reserve.  They  had 
come  down  the  river  for  the  purpose  of  observing 
the  state  of  the  wild  rice,  and  at  what  places  it 
could  be  most  advantageously  gathered.  None, 
however,  was  yet  sufficiently  ripe  to  admit  of  har- 
vesting, but  this  precaution  evinces  a  degree  of 
care  and  foresight,  which  is  not  always  found 
among  savages. 

In  the  course  of  this  day  we  have  observed,  ei- 
ther upon  the  river,  or  its  banks,  the  wild  goose, 
duck,  turkey-buzzard,  raven,  eagle,  king-fisher,  (al- 
cedo  alcyon.)  and  blackbird. 

LIX.  Day.  {July  list.) — We  continued  our  journey 
at  half  past  four  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Passing 
around  the  northern  shore  of  Lake  Winnioec,  we 
observed  at  a  distance  a  rocky  island  of  such  snowy 
whiteness,  as  to  give  it  an  appearance  of  singular 
fcovelty,  and  to  baffle  every  conjecture  as  to  the  sub- 
stance of  which  it  was  composed.  On  reaching  its^ 
shores,  we  found  it  to  be  a  confused  pile  of  water- 
worn  fragments  of  granite,  hornblende,  quartz,  &c. 
covered  with  a  thick  limey  incrustation,  produced 
from  the  excrescence  of  the  myriads  of  water-fowl 
who  resort  to  it.  These  birds  were  driven  away  in 
flocks  by  our  approach,  and  we  particularly  noticed 
the  wild  goose,  black  duck,  pelican,  cormorant, 
brant,  and  plover.  On  landing  a  dead  pelican  (pc- 
lecanus  onocratolus,)  was  found  upon  the  rocks,  ha- 
ving apparently  been  killed  that  morning,  either  in 
a  strife  among  its  own  species  or  through  disease. — 
No  marks  of  violence,  or  external  disease  could 
however  be  observed.     This  is  one  of  the  largest  of 


24a 

web-footed  water  fowl,  often  exceeding  in  size  the 
swan.  It  has  been  known  to  weigh  twenty-five 
pounds,  and  to  measure  eleven  feet  between  the  tips 
of  the  wings.  Its  most  remarkable  character,  and 
one  which  distinguishes  it  from  all  other  birds,  is  a 
large  membranaceous  pouch  extending  from  the 
mandible  nine  or  ten  inches  down  the  front  of  the 
neck.  This  serves  as  a  repository  for  its  food,  and 
when  empty,  the  bird  has  the  power  of  wrinkling  it  up. 
It  has  the  colour  and  consistence  of  a  wetted  bladder 
and  is  naked  to  appearance,  but  on  examination  is 
found  to  be  partially  covered  with  a  very  fine  downy 
substance.  These  pouches  are  fashioned  by  the  In- 
dians into  caps  for  summer  wear,  being  very  light  and 
airy.  Notwithstanding  the  great  bulk  of  this  bird, 
it  is  said  to  be  very  expert  upon  the  wing,  and  soars 
to  a  great  height,  which  is  in  some  measure  attribu- 
table to  the  extreme  lightness  of  its  bones,  which 
do  not  altogether  exceed  a  pound  and  a  half  in 
weight. 

Disregarding  artificial  arrangements,  all  wrater 
fowl  may  be  considered  under  these  great  natural  di- 
visions, namely,  those  of  the  penguin  kind,  with  short 
blunt  wings,  round  bills,  and  legs  hid  in  the  abdo- 
men, which  dive  in  quest  of  food; — those  of  the 
gull  kind,  with  long  slender  legs,  sharp  pointed 
wings,  and  round  bills,  which  fly  along  the  water  to 
seize  their  prey ; — and  those  of  the  goose  kind,  with 
broad  flat  bills,  and  heavy-quilled  wings,  which  gen- 
erally lead  harmless  lives,  and  subsist  mostly  upon 
vegetables  and  insects.  The  pelican,  from  its  sin- 
gular conformation,  will  not,  strictly  speaking,  fall 
under  any  of  the*e  denominations,  although  it  seems 
more  nearly  allied  to  the  family  of  the  goose.     Its 


249 

feathers  are  white  all  over  the  body,  and  its  wings5 
which  are  strong  and  heavy,  clothed  with  a  thick 
plumage  of  quills  and  downy  feathers.  Its  legs  are 
red,  and  its  bill  of  a  greenish  tinge  at  the  base,  but 
changing  to  a  reddish  blue  towards  its  extremity, 
which  is  slightly  hooked  downward.  The  eyes 
are  small,  compared  with  the  magnitude  of  the  head, 
and  altogether  the  bird  has  a  heavy  and  demure 
look.  Like  the  heron  and  the  cormorant,  the  peli- 
can is  an  inordinate  eater,  and  is  represented  to  be 
indolent  and  stupid  to  the  last  degree. 

"  This  species,"  says  Pennant,  "extends  over  most 
parts  of  the  torrid  zone,  and  many  parts  of  the  warm- 
er temperate.  It  is  found  in  Europe,  on  the  lower 
parts  of  the  Danube,  and  in  all  parts  of  the  Medi- 
terranean Sea,  almost  all  Africa,  and  Asia  Minor. 
Are  seen  in  incredible  numbers  about  the  Black  and 
Caspian  Seas  ;  and  come  iar  up  the  rivers,  and  into 
the  inland  lakes  of  the  Asiatic  Russian  empire  ;  but 
grow  scarcer  eastward,  and  are  seldom  met  with  so 
far  north  as  the  Siberian  lakes ;  yet  are  not  unknown 
about  that  of  Baikal.  They  are  common  on  the 
coast  of  New  Holland,  where  they  grow  to  an  enor- 
mous size.  They  feed  upon  fish,  which  they  take 
sometimes  by  plunging  from  a  great  height  in  the 
air,  and  seizing,  like  the  gannet :  at  other  times  they 
fish  in  concert,  swimming  in  flocks,  and  forming  a 
large  circle  in  the  great  rivers,  which  they  gradually 
contract,  beating  the  water  with  their  wings  and  feett 
in  order  to  drive  the  fish  into  the  centre ;  which 
when  they  approach,  they  open  their  vast  mouths, 
and  fill  their  pouches  with  their  prey,  then  incline 
their  bills  to  empty  the  bag  of  the  water;  after 
which  they  swim  to  shore  and  eat  their  booty  in  qui- 

32 


Jjij 

ft.  As  the  pouch  is  capable  of  holding  a  dozers 
quarts  of  water,  a  guess  may  be  made  of  the  quan- 
tity of  fishes  it  can  contain.  The  French  very  pro- 
perly call  them  Grande  Gosicrs,  or  Great  Throats,  It 
is  said  that  when  they  make  their  nests  in  the  dry 
deserts,  they  carry  the  water  to  their  young  in  their 
vast  pouches,  and  that  the  lions  and  beasts  of  prey 
come  there  to  quench  their  thirst,  sparing  the  young, 
the  cause  of  this  salutary  provision.  Possibly,  on 
this  account,  the  Egyptians  style  this  bird  the  camel 
of  the  river  : — the  Persians  tacub,  or  water-carrier.*'" 
The  popular  fable  that  this  bird  feeds  its  young 
with  blood  from  its  own  breast,  owes  its  origin  to  the 
circumstance  of  its  permitting  them  to  eat  from  its 
pouch  the  food  which  it  collects  for  that  purpose. 

On  quitting  Pelican  Island,  we  steered  northwest 
across  the  bay,  and  entered  the  mouth  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi inlet,  which  we  pursued  up  fifty  miles  to  its 
origin,  in  Upper  Red  Cedar  or  Cassinaf  Lake,  where 
we  arrived  at  three  o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  This 
may  be  considered  the  true  source  of  the  Mississip- 
pi River,  although  the  greatest  body  of  water  is  said 
to  come  down  the  Leech  Lake  Branch.  The  river 
between  Lake  W'innjqpee  and  Cassina  Lake  winds 
through  a  prairie-valley,  a  mile  in  width,  which  is 
bounded  by  ridges  of  sandy  land  covered  with  yel- 
low and  white  pine.  The  river  pursues  the  same 
devious  course,  and  its  banks  are  overgrown  with 
wild  oats,  rushes,  and  grass.    Cassina  Lake  is  about 

*  Arctic  Zoulogy. 

f  I  have  proposed  to  the  Topographical  Engineer  of  the  Expe- 
dition, to  designate  the  hike  by  this  term,  in  order  to  prevent  its 
being  confounded  with  Red  Cedar  Lake,  which  is  situated  abo\:; 
250  miles  below.  It  ii  in  allusion  to  Governor  Cass. 


251 

eight  miles  long  by  six  in  width,  and  presents 
to  the  eye  a  beautiful  sheet  of  transparent  water. 
(See  the  perspective  view  upon  the  Map?)  Its  banks 
are  overshadowed  by  elm,  maple,  and  pine.  Along 
its  margin  there  are  some  fields  of  Indian  rice,  rushes 
and  reeds  :  in  other  places,  there  is  an  open  beach 
of  clean  pebbles,  driven  up  by  the  waves,  but  no 
rock  strata  appear.  The  pike  carp,  trout,  and  cat- 
fish are  caught  in  its  waters.  It  has  an  island  towards 
its  western  extremity  covered  with  trees,  from  which 
it  derives  its  local  name,  but  no  red  cedar  is  found 
around  its  shores.  This  lake  is  supplied  by  two  in- 
lets called  Turtle  and  La  Beesh  rivers,  both  tribu- 
tary on  the  northwestern  margin.  The  former  ori- 
ginates in  Turtle  Lake,  near  the  banks  of  the  Rainy 
Lakes,  and  after  pursuing  a  southerly  course  for 
forty  miles,  in  which  distance  it  opens  into  several 
small  lakes,  enters  Red  Cedar  or  Cassina  Lake  by  a 
mouth  of  fifteen  yards  in  width.  This  branch  is  as- 
cended with  canoes  passing  to  the  Lake  of  the 
Woods,  and  has  three  short  portages. 

La  Beesh  river  is  the  outlet  of  Lake  La  Beesh, 
which  lies  six  days  journey,  with  a  canoe,  west- 
northwest  of  Cassina  Lake,  and  has  no  inlets.  A 
short  distance  from  its  shores,  the  waters  run  north 
into  the  Red  River  of  Hudson's  Bay.  Its  outlet  has 
several  rapids,  and  expands  into  a  number  of  inter- 
mediate lakes,  the  largest  of  which  are  lakes  Traver- 
se, Oganga,  and  Kiskahoo.  It  also  receives  several 
tributaries,  all  of  which  originate  in  small  lakes.  It  is 
only  capable  of  being  ascended  in  canoes,  during 
the  spring  and  autumnal  freshets,  and  then  there  are 
Several  portages.    This  branch  is  considered  the 


252 

largest  inlet,  and  preserves,  in  Ihe  language  of  the 
voyageurs,  the  name  of  the  Mississippi. 

On  the  north  shore  of  this  lake,  on  a  cleared  emi- 
nence, is  a  village  of  Chippeways,  of  ten  lodges  and 
sixty  souls,  under  Wiscoup,  or  the  Sweet.  They  receiv- 
ed the  party  with  every  mark  of  friendship,  and  pre- 
sented us  an  abundance  of  the  most  delicious  red  rasp- 
berries, and  a  quantity  of  pemican,or  pounded  moose 
meat.  Here  we  also  found  two  Frenchmen,  who  have 
been  in  the  employ  of  the  American  Fur  Company, 
and  located  themselves  at  this  spot,  for  the  purpose 
of  trading  with  the  Indians.    In  the  person  of  one  of 

these,  Mons.  D ,  we  witnessed  one  of  the  most 

striking  objects  of  human  misery.  It  appears,  that  in 
the  prosecution  of  the  fur  trade,  he  had,  according  to 
the  custom  of  the  country,  taken  an  Indian  wife,  and 
spent  several  winters  in  that  inclement  region.  Dur- 
ing the  last,  he  was,  however,  caught  in  a  severe 
snow  storm,  and  froze  both  his  feet  in  such  a  man- 
ner, that  they  dropped  off  shortly  after  his  return  to 
his  wigwam.  In  this  helpless  situation,  he  was  sup- 
ported some  time  by  his  w  ife,  who  caught  fish  in  the 
lake ;  but  she  at  last  deserted  him ;  and  on  our  ar- 
rival, he  had  subsisted  several  months  upon  the  pig 
weed  which  grew  around  his  cabin.  As  he  was  un- 
able to  walk,  this  had  been  thrown  in  by  his  country- 
man, or  by  the  Indians, and  appeared  to  have  been  the 
extent  of  their  benevolence.  We  found  him  seated 
in  a  small  bark  cabin,  on  a  rush  mat,  with  the 
stumps  of  his  legs  tied  up  with  deerskins,  and  wholly 
destitute  of  covering.  He  was  poor  and  emaciated 
to  the  last  degree — his  beard  was  long — cheeks  fal- 
len in — eyes  sunk,  but  darling  a  look  of  despair — and 
every  bone  in  his  body  visible  through  the  skin.     He 


253 

could  speak  no  English,  but  was  continually  uttering 
curses  in  his  mother  tongue,  upon  his  own  existence, 
and  apparently,  upon  all  that  surrounded  him.  We 
could  only  endure  the  painful  sight  for  a  moment, 
and  hastened  from  this  abode  of  human  wretched- 
ness ;  but  before  leaving  the  village,  Governor  Cass 
sent  him  a  present  of  Indian  goods,  groceries,  and 
ammunition,  and  engaged  a  person  to  convey  him  to 
the  American  Fur  Company's  Fort  at  Sandy  Lake, 
where  he  could  still  receive  ihe  attention  due  to  suf- 
fering humanity.  These  donations  were  swelled  by 
every  individual  of  the  party,  each  one  taking  a 
pleasure  in  being  able  to  contribute  something,  with 
a  view  either  to  clothe  and  lodge  him  with  decency 
and  comfort,  or  to  enable  him  to  purchase  provi- 
sions, for  his  subsistence,  from  the  Indians. 

The  laiitude  of  this  lake  as  determined  by  Lieut. 
Pike,  in  1806,  is  47°  42'  40."  Owing  to  cloudy  weather, 
no  opportunity  of  testing  the  correctness  of  this  obser- 
vation, was  presented  to  us ;  but  Capt.  Douglass  had 
an  observation  fifty  eight  miles  below,  and  calculated 
the  latitude  of  that  place  to  be  47°  38'.  The  distance 
from  Sandy  Lake,  by  the  windings  of  the  river  is 
two  hundred  and  seventy  one  miles,  and  from  the 
Fond  du  Lac,  at  the  head  of  Lake  Superior,  429.  It  is 
but  thirty  miles  by  land  south  to  Leech  Lake,  and  is 
walked  in  the  winter  season,  when  the  swamps  are 
frozen  over,  in  one  day.  It  is  about  one  hundred 
miles  west-northwest,  to  Red  Lake,  where  there  is  a 
band  of  Chippeways  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  war- 
riors ;  and  a  hundred  and  twenty  miles  northwest  to 
the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  via  Turtle  Portage,  and  the 
Rainy  Lakes ;  but  in  a  direct  line  about  half  that 
distance.    Cassina  Lake,  the  source  of  the  Mis* 


2j4 

sissippi,  is  situated  seventeen  degrees  north  of 
the  Balize  on  the  Gulph  of  Mexico,  and  two  thou- 
sand nine  hundred  and  seventy-eight  miles,  pursuing 
the  course  of  the  river.  Estimating  the  distance  to 
Lake  La  Beesli,  its  extreme  northwestern  inlet  at  six- 
ty miles,  which  I  conclude  to  be  within  bounds,  we 
have  a  result  of  three  thousand  and  thirty-eight  miles, 
as  the  entire  length  of  this  wonderful  river,  which  ex- 
tends over  the  surface  of  the  earth  in  a  direct  line, 
more  than  half  the  distance  from  the  iVrclic  Circle 
to  the  Equator.  It  is  also  deserving  of  remark,  that 
its  sources  lie  in  a  region  of  almost  continual  winter, 
while  it  enters  the  Ocean  under  the  latitude  of  per- 
petual verdure  ;  and  at  last,  as  if  disdaining  to  ter- 
minate its  career  at  the  usual  point  of  embouchure 
of  other  large  rivers,  has  protruded  its  banks  into  the 
Gulf  of  Mexico,  more  than  a  hundred  miles  beyond 
any  other  part  of  the  main.  To  have  visited  both  the 
sources  and  the  mouth  of  this  celebrated  stream, 
falls  to  the  lot  of  tew,  and  I  believe  there  is  no  person 
living,  beside  myself,  of  whom  the  remark  can  now  be 
made.  On  the  10th  of  July,  1819,  I  passed  out  of  the 
mouth  of  the  Mississippi  in  a  brig  bound  for  New- 
York,  after  descending  it  in  a  steam-boat  from  St. 
Louis,  and  little  thinking  I  should  soon  revisit  its  wa- 
ters; yet,  on  the  21st  of  July  of  the  following  year,  1 
found  myself  seated  in  an  Indian  canoe,  upon  its 
source. 

In  deciding  upon  the  physical  character  of  the 
Mississippi,  it  may  be  advantageously  considered 
under  four  natural  divisions,  as  indicated  by  the  per- 
manent differences  in  the  colour  of  its  waters, — tbc 
geological  character  of  its  bed  and  banks, — its  for- 

•  trees  and  other  vegetable  productions, — Us  velo- 


253 

city, — the  difficulties  it  opposes  to  navigation, — and 
other  natural  appearances  and  circumstances. 

Originating  in  a  region  of  lakes,  upon  the  table 
lands,  which  throw  their  waters  north  into  Hudson's 
Bay, — south  into  the  Gulph  of  Mexico, — and  east  in- 
to the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence — it  pursues  its  course 
to  the  falls  of  Peckagama,  a  distance  of  two  hundred 
and  thirty  miles,  through  a  low  prairie,  covered  with 
wild  rice,  rushes,   sword  grass,  and  other  aquatic 
plants.    During  this  distance,  it  is  extremely  devious 
as  to  course  and  width,  sometimes  expanding  into 
small  lakes,  at  others,   narrowing  into  a  channel  of 
about  eighty  feet.     It  is  about  sixty  feet  wide  on  its 
exit  from  Red  Cedar  or  Cassina  Lake,  with  an  ave- 
rage depth  of  two  feet ;  but  from  the  junction  of  the 
Leech  Lake   fork,  increases  to  a  hundred  feet  in 
width,  with  a  corresponding  increase  of  depth.     Its 
current,  during  this  distance,  is  still  and  gentle  ;  and 
its  mean  velocity  may  be  estimated  at  a  mile  and  a 
half  per  hour,  with  a  descent  of  three  inches  per 
mile.     This  is  the  favourite  resort  of  water-fowl,  and 
amphibious  quadrupeds. 

At  the  falls  of  Peckagama,  the  first  rock  stratum, 
and  the  first  wooded  island,  is  seen.  Here  the 
river  has  a  fall  of  twenty  feet ;  and  from  this  to  the 
falls  of  St.  Anthony,  a  distance  of  six  hundred  and 
eighty-five  miles,  exhibits  its  second  characteristic 
division.  At  the  head  of  the  falls  of  Peckagama, 
the  prairies  entirely  cease ;  and  below,  a  forest  of 
elm,  maple,  birch,  oak,  and  ash,  overshadows  the 
stream.  The  black  walnut  (juglans  nigra)  is  first 
seen  below  Sandy  Lake  river,  and  the  sycamore  be- 
low the  river  De  Corbeau.  The  river,  in  this  dis- 
tance, has  innumerable  well  wooded  islands,  and  re- 


2ob 

ceives  a  number  of  tributaries,  the  largest  of  which 
is  the  river  De  Corbeau,  its  great  southwestern  fork. 
The  Pine,  Elk,  Sac,  and  Crow  rivers,  also  enter 
on  the  west,  and  the  St.  Francis  and  Missisaw£aie- 
gon,  on  the  east.  The  course  of  the  river,  although 
serpentine,  is  less  so,  than  above  the  foils  of  Pecka- 
gama,  and  its  bends  are  not  so  short  and  abrupt.  Its 
mean  width  may  be  estimated  at  three  hundred  ^eet 
until  the  junction  of  the  De  Corbeau,  and  below  that 
at  two  hundred  and  fifty  yards.  lis  navigation  is  im- 
peded, agreeably  to  a  memorandum  which  I  have 
kept,  by  thirty-five  rapids,  nineteen  ripples,  and  two 
minor  falls,  called  the  Little  and  the  Big  Falls,  in  all  of 
which  the  river  has  an  aggregate  descent  of  two  hun- 
dred and  twenty  four  feet  in  fourteen  thousand  six  hun- 
dred andforty  yards,  or  about  eight  miles.  The  mean 
fall  of  the  current,  exclusive  of  the  rapids,  may  be 
computed  at  six  inches  per  mile,  and  its  velocity  at 
three  miles  per  hour.  In  the  course  of  this  distance 
it  receives  several  small  turbid  streams,  and  acquires 
a  brownish  hue,  but  still  preserves  its  transparency, 
and  is  palatable  drink-water.  A  few  miles  above 
the  river  De  Corbeau,  on  the  east  side,  we  observe 
the  first  dry  prairies,  or  natural  meadows,  and  they 
continue  to  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony.  These  prairies 
are  the  great  resort  of  the  buffalo,  elk,  and  deer, 
and  are  the  only  part  of  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi 
where  the  buffalo  is  now  to  be  found.  Granite  rocks 
appear  at  several  of  the  rapids,  in  rolled  pieces,  and 
in  beds ;  and  in  some  places  attain  an  elevation  of 
one  or  two  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  water, 
but  the  banks  of  the  river  are  generally  alluvial. 

At  the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  the   river  has  a  per- 
pendicular pitch  of  forty  feet,  and  from  this  to  its 


257 

junction  with  the  Missouri,  a  distance  of  eight  hun- 
dred and  forty  three  miles,  it  is  bounded  by  limestone 
bluffs,  which  attain  various  elevations  from  one  to 
four  hundred  feet,  and  present  a  succession  of  the 
most  sublime  and  picturesque  views.  This  forms  the 
third  characteristic  change  of  the  Mississippi.  The 
river  prairies  cease,  and  the  rocky  bluffs  commence 
precisely  at  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony.  Nine  miles  be- 
low it  receives  the  St.  Peter's  from  the  west,  and  is  suc- 
cessively swelled  on  that  side  by  the  Ocano,  Iowa, 
Turkey,  Desmoines,  and  Salt  rivers,  and  on  the  east 
by  the  St.  Croix,  Chippeway,  Black,  Ousconsing, 
Rock,  and  Illinois.  One  hundred  miles  below 
the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  the  river  expands  into  a 
lake,  called  Pepin,  which  is  twenty -four  miles  long 
and  four  in  width.  It  is,  on  issuing  from  this  lake, 
that  the  river  first  exhibits,  in  a  striking  manner,  those 
extensive  and  moving  sand  bars,  innumerable  islands 
and  channels,  and  drifts  and  snags,  which  continue  to 
characterize  it  to  the  ocean.  Its  bends  from  this  point 
onward  are  larger,  and  its  course  more  direct;  and 
altltough  its  waters  are  adulterated  by  several  dark 
coloured  and  turbid  streams,  it  may  still  be  consi- 
dered transparent.  The  principal  impediments  to 
navigation  in  this  distance  are  the  Desmoine,  and 
Rock  river  rapids.  The  latter  extends  six  miles, 
and  opposes  an  effectual  barrier  to  steam-boat  navi- 
gation, although  keel  boats  and  barges  of  the  largest 
class,  may  ascend.  This  rapid  is  three  hundred  and 
ninety  miles  above  St.  Louis. 

The  fourth  change  in  the  physical  aspect  of  this 
river  is  at  the  junction  of  the  Missouri,  and  this  is  a 
total  and  complete  one,  the  character  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi being  entirely  lost  in  that  of  the  Missouri, 

33 


258 

The  latter  is.  in  fact,  much  the  largest  stream  of  the 
two,  and  carries  its  characteristic  appearances  to 
the  ocean.  It  should  also  have  carried  the  name, 
but  its  exploration  took  place  too  long  after  the 
course  of  the  Mississippi  had  been  perpetuated  in 
the  written  geography  of  the  country,  to  render  an 
alteration  in  this  respect,  either  practicable  or  expe- 
dient. The  waters  of  the  Mississippi  at  its  conflu- 
ence with  the  Missouri,  are  moderately  clear,  and 
of  a  greenish  hue. — The  Missouri  is  turbid  and  opake, 
of  a  greyish-white  colour,  and  during  its  floods, 
which  happen  twice  a  year,  communicates,  almost 
instantaneously,  to  the  combined  stream  its  predo- 
minating qualities,  but  towards  the  close  of  the  sum- 
mer season,  when  itisat  its  lowest  stage  of  water,  the 
streams  do  not  fully  incorporate  for  twenty  or  thirty 
miles,  but  preserve  opposite  sides  of  the  river;  and 
I  have  observed  this  phenomenon  at  the  town  of 
Herculaneum,  which  is  forty-eight  miles  below  the 
junction.  The  water  in  this  part  of  the  river  cannot 
be  drank  until  it  has  been  set  aside  to  allow  the  mud 
to  settle.  The  distance  from  the  mouth  of  the  Mis- 
souri to  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  is  one  thousand  two  hun- 
dred and  twenty  miles,  in  the  course  of  which  it  re- 
ceives from  the  west,  the  Merrimack,  St.  Francis, 
White,  Arkansas,  and  fled  rivers  ;  and  from  the  east, 
the  Kaskaskia,  Great  Muddy, Ohio,  Wolf,  and  Yazoo. 
This  part  of  the  river  is  more  particularly  charac- 
terized by  snags  and  sawyers, — falling-in  banks  and 
islands; — sand  bars  and  mud  banks ; — and  a  channel 
which  is  shifting  by  every  flood,  and  of  such  extreme 
velocity,  that  it  was  formerly  thought  it  could  not  be 
navigated  by  vessels  propelled  with  sails.  Subsequent 
experience  has  shown  this  conjecture  to  be  unfoun- 


25(J 

ded,  although  a  strong  wind  is  required  for  its  ascent. 
It  is  daily  navigated  in  ships  of  from  four  hun- 
dred to  eight  hundred  tons  burden,  from  the  Ba- 
lize  to  New  Orleans,  a  distance  of  one  hundred 
miles,  and  could  be  ascended  higher  were  it  neces- 
sary ;  but  the  commerce  of  the  river  above  New  Or- 
leans is  now  carried  on,  in  a  great  measure,  by  ^team- 
boats.  The  width  of  the  river  opposite  St.  Louis 
is  one  mile  ;  it  is  somewhat  less  at  New  Orleans, 
and  still  less  at  its  disembochure.  A  bar  at  its 
mouth  prevents  ships  drawing  more  than  eighteen 
feet  water  from  entering.  This  river  is  occupied  by 
different  bands  of  the  Chippeway  Indians  from  its 
sources,  to  the  Buffalo  Plains  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
upper  St.  Francis,  the  precise  limit  being  a  matter 
of  dispute,  and  the  cause  of  the  long  war  between 
them  and  the  Sioux.  The  Sioux  bands  claim  from 
thence  to  the  Prarie  du  Che  in,  and  the  Foxes  and 
Sacs  to  the  river  Desmoines.  From  this  vicinity  to 
the  Gulf  of  Mexico  the  Indian  title  has  been  ex- 
tinguished by  the  United  States  Government  either 
through  purchase,  treaty,  or  conquest,  and  we  have 
now  the  complete  control  of  this  river  and  all  its 
tributary  streams,  with  the  exception  of  the  upper 
part  of  Red  River.  The  wild  rice,  (zezania  aqua- 
tica,)  \s  not  found  on  the  waters  of  the  Mississippi 
south  of  the  forty -first  degree  of  north  latitude,  nor 
the  Indian  reed,  or  cane,  north  of  the  thirty-eighth. 
These  two  productions  characterize  the  extremes  of 
this  river.  It  has  been  observed  by  McKenzie,  that 
the  former  is  hardly  known,  or  at  least,  does  not 
come  to  maturity,  north  of  the  fiftieth  degree  of 
north  latitude.  The  alligator  is  first  seen  below 
the  junction  of  the  Arkansas.     The  paroquet  is 


200 

found  as  far  north  as  the  mouth  of  the  Illinois,  and5 
flocks  have  occasionally  been  seen  as  high  as  Chi- 
cago. The  name  of  this  river  is  derived  from  the 
Algonquin  language,  one  of  the  original  tongues  of 
our  continent,  which  is  now  spoken  nearly  in  its 
primeval  purity  by  the  different  bands  of  Chippe- 
ways  ; — less  so  by  the  Knistineaux  and  Ottaways  ; — 
with  great  corruptions  by  the  Foxes,  Sacs,  and  Pot- 
towatomies,  and  some  other  tribes  ; — and  in  various 
dialects  by  the  five  bands  of  Iroquois  of  New- York. 
It  is  a  compound  of  the  word  Jllissi,  signifying  great, 
and  Sepe,  a  river.  The  former  is  variously  pronoun- 
ced missil  or  michil,  as  in  Michilimackinac  ; — michi 
as  in  Michigan  ; — Missu — as  in  Missouri ;- — and  mmi, 
as  in  Mississineway,  and  Mississippi.  The  variation 
does  not  appear  greater  than  we  should  expect  in  an 
unwritten  language.  They  have  no  other  word 
to  express  the  highest  degree  of  magnitude  either 
in  a  moral  or  physical  sense,  and  it  may  be  consid- 
ered as  synonymous  not  only  with  our  word  great, 
but  also,  magnificent, — supreme,- — stupendous, — 
sublime, — enormous, — extensive, — prodigious, — am- 
ple, &c. — words  which  are  certainly  not  synony- 
mous, in  our  language,  but  have  only  one  term 
by  which  they  can  be  translated  into  theirs. 
The  word  Sippi,  may  be  considered  as  the  English 
pronunciation,  (derived  through  the  medium  of  the 
French)  of  Sepc,  and  affords  an  instance  of  an  Indian 
term,  of  much  melody,  being  corrupted  by  Europe- 
ans, into  one  that  has  a  harsh  and  hissing  sound. 

No  attempt  has  heretofore  been  made  to  deter- 
mine the  elevation  of  that  part  of  the  American  con- 
tinent which  gives  origin  to  the  Mississippi,  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and    the   Red  River  of   the    North ; — 


2GI 

and  from  the  immense  distance  of  this  summit  level 
from  the  ocean,  and  the  difficulties  that  must  attend 
the  survey,  it  is  probable  that  many  years  may  elapse 
before  this  point  will  be  determined  by  actual  ob- 
servation. With  a  view,  however,  of  approaching 
the  probable  altitude,  1  have  estimated  from  the 
best  data  I  could  command,  the  descent  of  the  dif- 
ferent rapids, — streams,  and  falls  in  the  whole  route, 
with  the  elevation  of  the  highlands  which  separate 
the  waters  of  Lake  Superior  from  those  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, and  the  descent  of  the  streams  flowing  into 
the  latter;  and  1  shall  here  present*  the  results  of 
these  observations.  The  estimates  have  always 
been  made  upon  the  spot,  and  noted  in  a  particular 
book  kept  for  that  purpose,  and  I  have  made  it  a  con- 
stant practice  to  avail  myself  of  the  judgment  of  the 
members  of  the  expedition,  in  deciding  upon  the 
mean  velocity  of  streams, — the  heights  of  falls  and 
rapids,  and  the  elevation  of  highlands;  and  feel 
particularly  indebted  to  the  observations  of  Gov. 
Cass,  and  Doct.  Wolcott.  Taking  the  elevation  of 
Lake  Erie  as  determined  by  the  actual  survey  of  the 
New-York  Canal  Commissioners  for  a  basis,  we  find 
the  surface  of  Lake  Superior  to  be  six  hundred  and 
forty-one  feet  above  the  Atlantic  ocean.  From  the 
head  of  this  lake,  following  up  the  St.  Louis  river  to 
the  Savannah  portage,  and  from  thence  across  the 
dividing  ground,  to  the  spot  where  we  first  strike  the 
waters  of  the  Mississippi,  at  the  head  of  the  west 
Savannah,  the  aggregate  elevation,  (as  detailed  in 
Chap.  8,)  may  be  estimated  at  five  hundred  and  fif- 
ty feet.  The  descent  of  this  stream  into  Sandy  Lake, 
and  from  thence  into  the  Mississippi  river,  as  given 
at  page  235,  will  reduce  this  estimate  by  the  sum  of 


262 

sixty  feet.  From  the  junction  of  Sandy  Lake  river, 
to  the  principal  source  of  the  Mississippi  in  Cassi- 
na lake,  we  attain  an  elevation  agreeably  to  the  an- 
nexed schedule*  of  one  hundred  and  sixty-two  feet, 
which  superadded  to  the  former  estimates,  shews  the 
Mississippi  river  to  originate  at  an  altitude  of  thirteen 
hundred  and  thirty  feet  above  the  Atlantic.  This  is  thirty 
feet  higher  than  the  Alleghany  mountains  in  Penn- 
sylvania, but  less  by  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet,  than 
the  highest  peak  (New  Beacon)  of  the  Highlands  of 
the  Hudson.  What  the  descent  of  the  river  La 
Beesh,  the  principal  inlet  of  Cassina  lake,  may  be, 
we  cannot  determine,  as  we  have  not  explored  thai 
stream,  but  the  Indians  represent  it  to  have  many 
rapids.  Taking  the  length  of  the  Mississippi,  how- 
ever, from  Cassina  lake,  to  the  ocean,  this  result  will 
give  it  a  mean  descent  of  two  feet,  2  |^§-f  inches 
per  mile,  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony  and  Lake  Pepin, 
inclusive, — for  what  the  estimate  would  loose  by  the 
perpendicular  pitch  of  the  former,  is  compensated 
by  the  dead  level  of  twenty-four  miles  in  the  latter. 

*  DESCENT  OF  THE  MISSISSIPPI: 

Rapids  above  the  junction  of  Sandy  Lake  river 

numbered  from  1  to  6,  see  Day  LIV. 
Rapid  No.  7, 
Rapid  No.  8, 
Rapid  No.  9, 
Falls  of  Peckagama, 
Mean   descent  of  the  Mississippi  from  Cassina 

lake  to  the  falls  of  Peckagama,  170  miles,  at 

3  inches  per  mile,  42-9  11 1-0 

Mean  fall  of  the  Mississippi   from  the  falls  of 

Peckagama  to  the  junction  of  Sandy  Lake 

river,  102  miles,  at  C  inches  per  mile,  51  162 


Feet. 

Total  Fee: 

29 

3 

31 

2 

33 

16 

49 

20 

69 

263 

To  those  who  are  conversant  with  the  hydrography 
of  rivers,  this  result  will  communicate  a  better  notion 
of  the  rapidity  of  the  Mississippi,  than  the  most  la- 
boured description  of  the  difficulties  of  its  ascent. — 
1  am  not  aware  of  any  fallacies  in  these  calculations, 
but  think  they  have  generally  been  made  within 
bounds,  and  that  whenever  the  altitude  is  determin- 
ed by  scientific  measurement  it  will  be  found  to  ex- 
ceed the  present  result. 

There  is  no  part  of  the  Mississippi  river  which 
originates  in  the  territories  of  British  America.  The 
northern  boundary  line  of  the  United  States  will 
probably  run  a  hundred  miles  north  of  its  extreme 
source  ;  but  this  is  a  point  which  still  remains  unset- 
tled between  the  two  governments,  and  some  diffi- 
culties, it  is  apprehended,  may  prevent  a  ready  ad- 
justment of  this  line.  The  treaty  of  I7ci3  which  de- 
signates the  limits  of  the  United  States,  fixes  the 
northern  boundary  as  a  line  drawn  through  the 
great  chain  of  lakes  to  the  head  of  Lake  Superior, 
thence  by  the  most  practicable  water  communica- 
tion to  the  Lake  of  the  Woods,  and  from  its  most 
northwestern  extremity  due  west  to  the  Mississippi. 
It  is  well  ascertained  that  a  line  drawn  due  west 
from  the  northwestern  extremity  of  the  Lake  of  the 
Woods,  would  not  strike  the  sources  of  the  Missis- 
sippi. McKenzie  states  the  northwestern  point  of 
the  Lake  of  the  Woods  to  lie  in  north  latitude  49° 
37',  and  west  longitude  from  Greenwich,  94°  31'. 

Mr.  Thompson,  the  Astronomer  !o  the  Northwest 
Company,  determined  the  latitude  of  Red  Cedar  or 
Cassina  lake  to  be  47°  33' ;  which  is  not,  however, 
presumed  to  be  entirely  correct.  The  great  north- 
ern bend  of  the  Missouri  is  laid  down  by  Lewis  and 


2G1 

Clark  in  north  latitude  47°  32',  and  the  river  above 
that  point  is  described  as  running  south  of  west,  so 
that  a  line  drawn  in  the  manner  directed,  from  the 
Lake  of  the  Woods,  would  not  strike  either  of  these 
streams.  This  was  anticipated  at  the  conclusion  of 
Jay's  treaty  in  1794,  but  nothing  further  was  agreed 
upon  in  this  respect,  than  that  the  line  should  be  es- 
tablished by  anegociation,  according  to  the  spirit  of 
the  former  treaty,  to  the  principles  of  justice,  and 
the  mutual  convenience  of  the  parties.  No  provision 
is  made  for  it  in  the  treaty  of  Ghent. 

Some  difficulty  appears  also  to  exist  as  to  the  true 
construction  of  that  part  of  the  treaty  which  re- 
quires a  line  to  be  drawn  from  the  head  of  Lake  Su- 
perior by  the  most  practicable  water  communication 
to  the  lake  of  the  woods.  There  are  two  grand 
routes  of  communication  pursued  by  the  north  west 
traders  namely ; — 1.  Byway  of  the  Grande  Portage, 
commencing  on  the  north  shore  of  lake  Superior, 
four  hundred  and  eighty  miles  from  the  Sault  de  St. 
Marie,  which  leads  through  a  succession  of  small 
lakes  to  the  Rainy  lakes,  and  thence  to  the  Lake  of 
the  Woods  : — 2.  By  the  St.  Louis  river  and  Savan- 
nah Portage  into  Sandy  Lake  and  the  Mississippi,  and 
thence  through  lake  Winnipec  and  across  the  Turtle 
Portage  into  the  Rainy  lakes,  or, — by  following  up  the 
St.  Louis  to  its  source  which  is  near  the  borders  of 
the  little  Rainy  lake.  The  first  route  has  long  been 
the  thoroughfare  of  the  northwest  company,  and  al- 
though less  travelled  now  than  formerly,  is  the  most 
direct,  expeditious, and  practicable  route;  and  wa£ 
the  only  one  in  use  at  the  conclusion  of  the  treaty. — 
The  United  States  claim  this  as  the  northern  bounda- 
ry, and  it  lias  accordingly  obtained  upon  all  our  maps. 


265 

In  the  maps  of  the  north  west  company,  however,  the 
line  is  drawn  through  the  St.  Louis  river.  The  terri- 
tory in  dispute  is  equal  in  extent  to  any  of  the  origin* 
al  states  of  the  confederation,  Virginia,  Pennsylvania, 
and  New-York  excepted.  This  part  of  the  bounda- 
ry will  come  under  the  cognizance  of  the  commis- 
sioners appointed  under  the  treaty  of  Ghent. 

Finding  it  impracticable  to  proceed  at  this  season 
of  the  year,  in  canoes  to  lake  La  Beesh,  an  immedi- 
ate return  was  here  determined  upon,  and  we  em- 
barked at  five  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  on  our  de- 
scent. Crossing  the  lake  we  passed  down  the  Mis- 
sissippi eighteen  miles  and  encamped  on  the  right 
bank  of  the  river  at  twilight. 

LX.  Day.  {July  22c?.) — Quitting  our  encampment 
before  day  light,  we  reached  lake  Winnipec  at  eight 
o'clock,  and  performed  the  traverse  against  a  strong 
head  wind.  This  occupied  two  hours,  during  which 
our  canoes  were  violently  tossed  upon  the  waves, 
and  the  voyageurs  manifested  some  apprehensions 
for  our  safety.  Entering  the  outlet  of  this  lake 
which  is  the  Mississippi,  we  left  our  encampment  of 
the  20th  on  our  right,  and  successively  passing  little 
Winnipec  or  Rush  lake,  and  the  confluence  of 
Leech  lake  river,  we  descended  to  within  ten  miles 
of  the  spot  of  our  encampment  on  the  19th,  having 
progressed  altogether  a  distance  of  ninety-eight 
miles.  In  the  course  of  the  day  we  passed  nine  In- 
dian canoes  on  their  ascent.  They  were  freighted 
with  rolls  of  birch  bark,  of  the  kind  employed  for 
canoes,  and  with  bundles  of  rushes  of  which  they 
manufacture  matts  for  bedding  and  tor  covering  their 

U 


266 

Wigwams.      The    weather  continued   cloudy,  with 
wind,  and  occasional  showers  of  rain. 

LXI.  Day. — {July  23d.) — Between  our  sufferings 
from  the  stings  of  the  musquitoes,  and  our  anxiety  to 
rejoin  our  friends  at  Sandy  lake,  we  obtained  lit- 
tle rest,  and  decamped  at  a  quarter  past  four  in 
the  morning.  We  reached  the  falls  of  Peckagama 
at  one  o'clock,  and  spent  forty  minutes  in  crossing 
the  portage  with  our  baggage  and  canoes.  We  now 
successively  passed  the  Prairie  and  Trout  rivers,  and 
proceeded  twenty-eight  miles  below  our  encamp- 
ment of  the  1 8th,  distance  ninety-eight  miles. — 
Weather  cloudy,  with  rain.  During  the  forenoon  we 
met  a  canoe  of  Chippeways  on  their  ascent,  and 
passing  with  rapidity,  merely  exchanged  the  com- 
mon salutation  of  ban  jour,  a  term  they  have  bor- 
rowed from  the  French.  Towards  evening,  an  an- 
imal of  singular  appearance,  supposed  to  be  the 
Wolverine,  was  seen  swimming  across  the  river,  but 
our  efforts  to  take  it  proved  unavailing.  Such  are 
the  incidents  of  a  voyage  in  this  remote  region. 

LXII.Day. — {July  24$,) — A  change  of  wind  took 
pi  ice  during  the  night,  and  we  were  favoured  with 
ihe  most  delightful  weather.  Proceeding  under  the 
double  influence  of  a  strong  current  and  the  force 
of  our  paddles,  we  progressed  with  surprising  rapidi- 
ty, and  at  two  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  landed  at  the 
Southwest  Company's  Fort  on  Sandy  lake,  a  distance 
of  seventy-two  miles,  having  performed  on  our  re- 
turn, the  same  distance  in  three  days,  which  we 
were  occupied  four  and  a  half  in  ascending.  We 
were  rejoiced  to  find  our  friends  in  perfect  health, 


267 

and  that  no  attempts  had  been  made  by  the  savages, 
during  our  absence,  to  molest  them.  A  pleasure, 
scarcely  less  satisfactory  in  its  nature,  arose  from  the 
termination  of  a  part  of  our  voyage,  which  had  ap- 
peared to  us  to  present  greater  difficulties  in  its  ac- 
complishment, and  less  in  its  character  and  produc- 
tions to  reward  exploration,  than  any  other  section 
of  the  tour;  and  in  fact,  we  have  neither  found  the 
Jabour  less,  nor  the  reward  greater,  than  was  antici- 
pated. Barren  in  its  geological  character  and  phys- 
ical productions,  the  incidents  of  the  lour  have  of- 
fered little  to  compensate  the  want  of  zoological  in- 
terest, picturesque  views,  and  populous  Indian  set- 
tlements: — and  a  number  of  circumstances  have 
concurred  to  render  our  situation  on  this  visit,  one 
of  peculiar  privation,  fatigue,  and  physical  suffering. 
Not  the  least  among  these,  have  been  the  calls  of  an 
unsatisfied  appetite,  the  stings  of  the  musquito,  and 
the  almost  incessant  motion  of  travelling,  depriving  us 
of  due  rest  at  night.  By  this  vigilance,  however — by 
this  constant  hurry  on  vard — by  dismissing  the  great- 
est part  of  our  baggage,  and  the  few  conveniences 
we  had  thus  far  carried — by  stinting  ourselves  as  to 
provisions,andby  leaving  the  weight  of  the  expedition 
at  Sandy  lake,  we  have  performed  the  voyage  in  less 
than  half  the  time  it  would  otherwise  have  requir- 
ed, and  in  less  time  than  it  has  ever,  as  we  are  told 
by  the  voyageurs,  been  before  performed. 

The  state  of  the  weather  during  our  absence  has 
presented  several  striking  transitions,  in  regard  to 
the  distribution  of  heat,  as  well  as  the  transparency 
of  the  atmosphere,  winds,  rain,  &c.  Having  left  my 
thermometer  with  Mr.  Doty,  during  the  time  of  our 
journey  to  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi,  he  favoured 


2t5tt 


me  with  the   following  observations,  made   at  the 
Company's  Fort. 

Meteorological  Register  kept  at  Sandy  Lake. 


SANDY 
LAKE. 

'820 
July  17 

Aim.  Temp. 

Mean 
temp. 

~78~ 

AVEATHER. 

A    VI. |    P.   M. 

d|12|  2|   8|  9 

|76|8.:|79|78 
51|64|66|53|50 

Morning-  rain — then  'air. 

1     -      18 

57 

Pair. 

-     19 

46|6i|70|5?| 

58 

Nig"ht  rain — morning'  cloudy- 

-then  clear. 

-     20  60\oJ\ii4\7 i\          74 

-     21 

68|86|88|8.5|74 
7j{88|90|77| 

70r82|88|78|_ 

80 

-     -j 

82 
79 

Clear — some  thunder. 

'     -     23 

Nig-li'  and  morn,  rain — af  ernoon  thunder. 

-     24l74|87|89|78| 

81 

Fair.     (Broke  thermometer.) 

1 8)589 
73 

i  mean  daily  temperature. 

CHAPTER  X. 

J  O  U  RJV  E  F, 

FROM  SANDY  LAKE  TO  THE  AMERICAN  GARRISON  AT 
ST.  PETER'S. 


LXI1I.  Day.— (July  25th.) 

J.  HE  expedition  embarked  at  the  Fort  at  twelve 
o'clock,  in  three  canoes  and  a  barge  on  its  descent  to 
the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  accompanied  by  embassa- 
dors of  peace  from  the  Chippeway  tribes  to  the  Si- 
oux of  St.  Peter's.  These  occupied  a  separate  ca- 
noe. It  is  three  miles  from  the  Fort  to  the  Missis- 
sippi. The  current  of  the  river  below  the  outlet  of 
Sandy  lake,  and  the  natural  appearances,  are  similar 
to  what  it  exhibits  for  a  hundred  miles  above.  The 
banks  are  alluvial,  elevated  from  six  to  ten  feet; 
trees — elm,  maple,  pine,  and  birch.  We  descended 
twenty-eight  miles  and  encamped  on  a  high  sandy 
bank  on  the  west  shore.  The  river  has  several  ra- 
pids in  that  distance,  and  some  small  islands  covered 
entirely  with  grass,  and  small  tufts  of  willows,  with 
piles  of  driftwood  collected  at  their  heads.  No 
rock  strata  appear,  but  loose  stones  of  granite,  horn- 
blende, an!  red  ferruginous  quartz,  are  seen  in  the 
bed  of  the  stream  in  passing  over  the  rapids,  and  in 
some  places,  along  the  margin  of  the  river,    Among 


2/0 

the  forest  trees,  pine  appears  to  predominate  on  the 
lands  which  lie  a  distance  off  the  river,  but  elm  is 
most  abundant  along  the  shore  :  maple  and  birch 
less  so,  and  black  walnut  and  oak  sparing.  The  co- 
lour of  the  water  on  looking  into  the  river  resembles 
that  of  chocolate,  but  on  dipping  up  a  cup  full,  it 
appears  colourless  and  clear.  The  weather  remain- 
ed fair  and  pleasant  during  the  day,  but  clouded  up 
towards  evening. 

LX1V.  Day. — {July  26th.) — It  commenced  raining 
during  the  night,  and  as  we  had  neglected  to  have 
our  tents  pitched,  we  were  first  awoke  by  the  falling 
rain,  and  during  the  intervals   of  the  showers,  the 
musquitoes  assailed  us  in  such  numbers,  as  to  for- 
bid the  hope  of  rest.      In  this  situation  we  passed 
the  remainder  of  the  night,  around   our   fires,   en- 
deavouring to  divert   our  reflections,   by  the  inter- 
change of  anecdote,  and  absolutely  prevented  from 
falling  asleep  by  the  labour  of  brushing  away  the 
voracious  hordes  of  musquitoes,  which  unceasingly 
beset  us  with  their  stings,  and  poured  forth  their  hate- 
ful and  incessant  buzzing  upon  our  ears.     It  certain- 
ly requires  a  different  species  of  philosophy  to  with- 
stand, undisturbed,  the  attacks  of  this  ravenous  in- 
sect, from  that  which  we  are  called  upon  to  exer- 
cise upon  the  sudden  occurrence  of  any  of  the  great 
calamities  and  misfortunes  of  life.      He  who  is  af- 
flicted,  without    complaining,   by    an    unexpected 
change  of  fortune,  or  the  death  of  a  friend,  may  be 
thrown  into  a  fit  of  restless  impatience  by  the  stings 
of  the  musquito;    and  the  traveller  who  is  prepared 
1o  withstand  the  savage  scalping  knife,  and  the  en- 


271 

raged  bear,  has  nothing  to  oppose  to  the  attacks  of 
an  enemy,  which  is  too  minute  to  be  dreaded,  and  too 
numerous  to  be  destroyed. 

We  embarked  a  few  moments  before  five  o'clock 
in  the  morning,  the  atmosphere  being  misty  and 
dark,  and  the  weather  cloudy,  which  eventuated  in 
rain  before  six  o'clock.  It  ceased  again  as  the  sun 
approached  the  meridian,  and  the  weather  was  clear 
and  delightful  at  noon.  A  few  minutes  before  eight 
o'clock  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  River  au  Sole  (Al- 
der river)  a  stream  of  twenty  yards  wide  entering 
on  the  right  shore.  In  the  afternoon  we  passed  four 
streams  of  considerable  size,  entering  on  the  left 
shore,  at  short  distances  from  each  other — names 
unknown ;  and  at  half  past  seven  in  the  evening 
passed  the  mouth  of  Pine  river,  a  stream  of  sixty 
yards  wide,  flowing  from  the  west.  This  river  is  a  hun- 
dred and  forty  miles  in  length,  expanding  in  that  dis- 
tance into  several  small  lakes,  which  communicate 
with  the  waters  of  Leech  lake.  In  ascending  it  the 
Indians  pursue  the  following  route.  It  is  one  day's 
journey  into  White  Fish  lake,  which  is  six  miles 
Ions:  and  two  in  width — then  five  miles  to  lake 
Poppenosh,  which  is  three  miles  long  by  one 
in  width — then  three  miles  to  a  third  lake,  which 
is  seven  miles  long  and  two  in  width.  From  this 
it  is  a  short  distance  to  Caspetawgan,  or  Tobacco- 
pouch  Lake,  which  is  five  miles  in  circumference, 
and  nearly  circular,  from  which  it  is  one  day's  jour- 
ney into  a  fifth  lake — thence  two  day's  to  a  port- 
age, which  conveys  you  to  the  sixth  lake,  from 
which  there  are  several  short  portages  from  lake  to 
lake  until  you  arrive  at  Leech  Lake.    The  whole  of 


272 

this  distance  is  a  succession  of  pine  ridges  and 
swamps,  and  the  Indians  affirm  that  one  half  of  the 
land  is  covered  with  lakes.  There  is  an  island  in 
the  mouth  of  Pine  river,  well  timbered  with  pine, 
elm,  and  maple,  and  a  rapid  in  the  Mississippi  river 
a  short  distance  below,  at  the  foot  of  which  we  en- 
camped, on  a  high  bank  on  the  east  shore,  having  de- 
scended one  hundred  miles.  In  the  course  of  this 
day's  journey,  the  river  has  presented  several  ra- 
pids, islands,  and  ripples.  The  fall  at  none  of  the 
rapids  will  exceed  six  feet  in  a  distance  of  three 
hundred  yards.  The  islands  are  small  and  not  well 
wooded,  and  are  encumbered  with  piles  of  drifted 
trees,  limbs,  and  leaves,  which  give  them  a  novel 
appearance,  and  at  the  same  time  serve  to  convey 
an  idea  of  the  rise  of  the  river,  and  of  the  force  of 
its  current,  during  its  semi-annual  floods.  Snags  be- 
come more  frequent  in  this  part  of  the  channel ;  and 
the  river  in  several  places  undermines  its  banks, 
which  are  elevated  from  ten  to  twenty  feet,  and  bear 
a  forest  of  elm,  birch,  pine,  maple,  black  wal- 
nut, and  oak  (quercus  nigra.)  Loose  stones  are 
found  at  all  the  rapids  ;  they  are  chiefly  referable 
to  the  different  varieties  of  granite,  hornblende,  slate, 
and  sand  stone.  Ducks,  the  teal,  and  the  plover, 
have  been  observed ; — also,  the  bald  eagle,  king- 
fisher, mock  bird,  robin,  and  pigeon.  As  night  ap- 
proached, we  heard,  for  the  first  time  in  the  region, 
the  whipporwill,  which  is  called  by  the  Indians 
Muck-a  wiss,  being  the  sounds,  according  to  their  no- 
tions, which  it  utters.  Among  the  plants,  at  the 
spot  of  our  encampment,  we  noticed  the  wild  rose 
(rosa  parviflora)  and  a  flower,  resembling  in  some  of 
its  characters  the  ipomaea  nil,  but  with  a  short  flo- 


273 

riferous  stem,  and   lance-oblong  leaves :    peduncle 
one-flowered,  bell-shaped,  white,  downy.  It  appears 
to  have  escaped  the  notice  of  Pursh,  in  his  botanical 
researches   in  the  northwest.     We  also,  during  this 
day's  journey,  first  noticed  the  common  red  barking 
squirrel,  which,  invited  from  its  nest,  by  the  beauty 
of  the  weather  during  the  afternoon,  has  been  fre- 
quently observed  playing  among  the  branches  of  the 
black    walnut,    and   other    favourite   trees.      This 
sprightly  little  animal  is  equally  entitled  to  our  ad- 
miration from  the  beauty  of  its  form  and  the  agility 
of  its  movements;     and  there  is  no  person  who  has 
visited  an  American  forest  during  the  summer  sea- 
son, either  as  a  sportsman  or  an  admirer  of  nature, 
who  is  not  ready  to   acknowledge   how  much  this 
pretty  and  playful  little  quadruped  contributes  to  en- 
liven and  beautify  the  scene.      There  are  several 
species  of  this  animal  in  the  forests  of  the  Mississip- 
pi, and  other  parts  of  the  United  States.     They  are 
all  referable  to  the  natural  genus   sciurus,   in  the 
Linnsean  system,  the  generic  characters  of  which  are 
two  fore  teeth  in  each  jaw,  the  upper  ones   wedge- 
shaped  and  cutters  like  those  of  the  beaver ;  the  infe- 
rior ones  sharp-pointed, like  those  of  the  dog  and  wolf. 
Some  of  the  species  of  this  genus,  however,  have 
their  fore  and  hind  legs  connected  by  a  thin  mem- 
brane covered  with  hair  by  means  of  which  they  are 
enabled  to  support  themselves  in  the  air  while  leap- 
ing from  one  tree  to  another.  Naturalists  have  seized 
upon  this  character  to  separate  the  genus  into  two  di- 
visions ;  distinguishing  those  which  possess  the  mem-' 
branc  petauri,  or  flying-squirrels,  and  those  without 
it  schtri  scadcntcs,  or  climbing  squirrels.    The  specie 

35 


274 

fie  name  of  the  common  red  squirrel  is  sciurus  vul- 
garis. 

LXV.  Day. — {July  21th.) — There  was  a  heavy 
fall  of  clew  during  the  night,  and  a  foggy  atmosphere 
at  early  day  light,  but  the  sun  arose  clear,  and  the 
day  continued  pleasant,  with  the  exception  of  the 
oppressive  heat  at  noon.  We  quit  our  encampment 
at  five  o'clock.  The  pine  lands  which  commenced 
yesterday  at  the  junction  of  Pine  river  with  the  Mis- 
sissipi,  continued  to  within  a  short  distance  of  the 
mouth  of  the  river  De  Corbeau.  They  are 
elevated  from  sixty  to  a  hundred  feet,  and  lie  in 
ridges.  The  principal  timber  is  the  yellow  pine. — 
Mixed  with  the  sand  which  is  in  some  places  naked, 
and  destitute  of  vegetation,  are  fragments  of  granite, 
hornblende,  quartz,  jasper,  and  carnelian.  This 
strip  of  sandy  country  was  denominated  the  Dead 
Pines  by  Pike.  At  twelve  o'clock  we  passed  the 
mouth  of  the  river  De  Corbeau,  the  largest  stream 
which  has  yet  entered  the  Mississippi,  and  by  which 
a  communication  is  maintained  with  the  Red  river. 
ft  is  ascended  by  the  traders  a  hundred  and  eighty 
miles  to  the  mouth  of  the  Pemmisco,  or  Go-by-water 
river,  which  flows  in  from  the  north  west.  This  is 
also  ascended  a  like  distance,  and  a  portage  of  two 
pauses  then  made  into  Otter  Tail  Lake,  which  has 
a  navigable  outlet  into  Red  River,  of  which  it  is  in- 
deed, one  of  the  principal  sources.  The  south  fork 
of  the  Dp  Corbeau  originates  near  the  sources  of 
the  St.  Peter's,  and  the  Indians  are  in  the  practice  of 
passing  that  way  in  canoes.  The  river  De  Corbeau 
joins  the  Mississippi  in  north  latitude  45°  49'  50"  and  is 
the  largest  tributary  which  it  receives  above  the  falls 


275 

of  St.  Anthony,  being  nearly  of  equal  magnitude.— 
The  lands   upon  its  banks    are   rich,  and    covered 
with  a  heavy  growth  of  hard  wood,  chiefly  elm,  su- 
gar tree,   black  walnut,  and  oak.     At   the  point  of 
junction  there  is  a  large  and    well    wooded  island 
called   the   Isle  De    Corbeau,  by   which  the  river 
is  hid  from  the  view  until  you  have  nearly  passed 
it,    when    by    turning   the   eye   towards   the  south, 
you  have  a  fine  view  of  its  broad  and  beautiful  sur- 
face, and  the  luxuriant   foliage  which  overshadows 
its  banks.     The   Mississippi   assumes  an  increased 
width  below,   and  is  particularly   characterized  by 
numerous  and  heavy  timbered  islands,  all  of  which 
present  immense  drifts  of  floodwood  at  their  heads, 
and  by  dividing  the  river  into  a  number  of  channels, 
serve  to  increase  its  width,  and  the  difficulties  of  its 
navigation.       Here   also,   the   Buffalo    Plains  com- 
mence, and  continue  downward,  on  both  banks  of 
the  river,  to  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony.      These  plains 
are  elevated  about  sixty  feet  above  the  summer-level 
of  the  water,  and  consist  of  a  sandy  alluvion  cov- 
ered with  rank  grass,   and  occasional  clumps  of  the 
dwarf  black  oak.      They  generally  present  steep, 
naked,  and  falling-in  banks  towards   the   river,  and 
disclose  innumerable  small  fragments  of  carnelian, 
agate,  and  jasper,  along  with    masses  of   coarser 
rock,  such  as  granite,  hornblende,  &c. 

We  descended  the  river  a  distance  of  ninety 
miles,  having  been  eleven  hours  in  our  canoes,  and 
encamped  on  the  prairie  on  the  left  bank.  Here 
our  Indians  killed  an  elk  and  a  buffalo,  a  number  of 
which  were  seen  upon  the  contiguous  plain.  A  short 
distance  above,  we  passed  r  hunting  camp  of  Chip- 
peways,  consisting  of   probably  one  hundred  and 


276 

fifty  souls.  On  landing,  we  were  received  with  a 
salute  in  the  Indian  method,  and  exchanged  some 
corn,  of  which  they  were  much  in  need,  for  pemmi- 
can,  and  dried  buflalo  beef. 

LXVI.  Day.  (July  2Hth.)— Embarked  at  half  past 
four.  Two  miles  below  we  passed  the  mouth  of 
Elk  river,  entering  on  the  right  shore.  This  is  a 
stream  of  forty  yards  wide,  and  has  a  rapid  near  its 
mouth  which  is  visible  from  the  Mississippi.  It  is, 
however,  ascended  a  great  distance  in  canoes,  and 
communicates  with  the  St.  Peter's,  by  two  short  port- 
ages. 

The  little  Falls  are  four  miles  below  the  mouth  of 
Elk  river,  where  the  Mississippi  forces  its  way 
through  a  narrow  defile  of  rocks  which  appear  in 
rugged  masses  in  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  attain 
an  elevation  of  from  twenty  to  forty  feet  upon  its 
banks.  Passing  with  great  velocity  over  the  schute 
of  the  falls,  it  was  difficult  to  ascertain  the  <reolog;i- 
cal  character  of  the  rock,  but  it  appeared  to  be  gra- 
nite very  much  mixed  and  darkened  with  hornblen- 
de. The  river  at  this  place  is  narrowed  to  half  its 
usual  width.  The  descent  of  water  may  be  estima- 
ted at  ten  feet,  in  one  hundred  and  fifty  yards.  Be- 
tween Elk  river  and  the  little  Falls,  we  pass  the 
Painted  Rock  standing  upon  the  west  bank  of  the 
river.  Jt  consists  of  a  mass  of  granite  and  hornblen- 
de, upon  which  the  Indians  have  drawn  a  number  of 
hieroglyphics,  and  rude  designs. 

Being  now  in  the  region  of  buffalo,  we  concluded 
to  land,  in  the  course  of  the  day,  at  some  conven- 
ient place  for  hunting  them.  This  we  were  soon  in- 
vited to  do  by  seeing  one  of  those  animals  along  <Ih 


277 

shore  of  the  river,  and  on  ascending  the  bank,  we 
observed,  upon  a  boundless  prairie,  two  droves  of 
them,  feeding  upon  the  grass.  All  who  had  guns 
adapted  for  the  purpose,  sallied  forth  in  separate 
parties  upon  the  prairie,  while  those  who  felt  less 
ambition  to  signalize  themselves  upon  the  occasion, 
or  were  more  illy  accoutred  for  the  activities  of  the 
chase,  remained  upon  an  eminence  which  overlook- 
ed the  plain,  to  observe  the  movements  of  this  an- 
imal while  under  an  attack  of  musketry,  and  to  en- 
joy the  novel  spectacle  of  a  buffalo-hunt.  The  grass 
was  so  tall  as  to  allow  an  unobserved  approach  to- 
wards the  spot  where  they  remained  feeding,  but 
the  first  fire  proved  unsuccessful,  at  the  same  time 
that  it  scattered  the  herd,  which  were  now  seen  run- 
ning in  all  directions  across  the  prairie,  and  an  in- 
cessant fire  of  random  shots  was  kept  up  for  about 
two  hours  ;  during  which  three  buffaloes  were  killed, 
and  a  great  number  wounded,  which  made  their  es- 
cape. While  thus  harassed,  they  often  passed  with- 
in a  few  yards  of  us,  and  we  enjoyed  a  fine  oppor- 
tunity of  witnessing  their  form,  size,  colour,  and 
speed.  The  buffalo  has  a  clumsy  gait,  like  the  do- 
mestic ox,  which  it  also  resembles  in  size  and  gene- 
ral appearance.  Unlike  the  ox,  however,  this  animal 
exhibits  no  diversity  of  colour,  being  a  uniform  dark 
brown  inclining  to  dun.  It  is  never  spotted,  with 
black,  red,  or  white.  It  has  short  black  horns  growing 
nearly  straight  from  the  head,  and  set  at  a  considera- 
ble distance  apart.  The  male  has  a  hunch  upon  its 
shoulders,  covered  with  long  flocks  of  shaggy  hair, 
extending  to  the  top  of  the  head  from  which  it  falls 
over  the  eyes  and  horns,  giving  the  animal  a  very 
formidable    appearance.       The   hoofs  are  cloven 


278 

like  those  of  the  cow,  but  the  legs  are  much  stouter, 
and  altogether,  it  is  more  clumsy  and  ill-proportion- 
ed. The  tail  is  naked  till  towards  the  end,  where 
it  is  tufted,  in  the  manner  of  the  lion.  The  general 
weight  of  this  animal  is  from  eight  hundred  to  a 
thousand  pounds ;  but  they  sometimes  attain  an 
enormous  size,  and  have  been  killed  upon  the  Mis- 
sissippi prairies  weighing  two  thousand  pounds. — 
The  skin  of  a  buffalo-bull  when  first  taken  off,  is 
three  fourths  of  an  inch  in  thickness,  and  cannot  be 
lifted  by  the  strongest  man.  A  hundred  and  fifty 
pounds  of  tallow  have  been  taken  from  one  animal, 
and  it  is  highly  esteemed  by  the  Indians  in  preparing 
their  hommony.  Instances  of  excessive  fatness  are, 
however,  rare,  and  such  over-fed  animals  become  so 
unweildy  that  they  often  fall  a  prey  to  wolves;  par- 
ticularly if  they  happen  to  stray  a  distance  from  the 
herd.  The  buffalo  is  a  timid  animal,  and  flies  at 
the  approach  of  man.  It  is  however  asserted  by  the 
hunters,  that  when  painfully  wounded,  it  becomes 
furious,  and  will  turn  upon  its  pursuers.  There  is  a 
particular  art  in  killing  the  buffalo  with  a  rifle,  on- 
ly known  to  experienced  hunters,  and  when  they  do 
*iot  drop  down,  which  is  often  the  case,  it  requires  a 
person  intimately  acquainted  with  their  habits,  to 
pursue  them  with  success.  This  has  been  fully 
instanced  in  the  futile  exertions  of  our  party, 
upon  the  present  occasion,  for  out  of  a  great 
number  of  shots  few  have  reached  the  ob- 
ject, and  very  few  proved  effectual,  and  the  little 
success  we  met  with  is  chiefly  attributable  to  the 
superior  skill  of  the  Indians  who  accompanied  us. — 
Unless  a  vital  part  is  touched,  the  shot  proves  use- 
less. It  also  requires  a  larger  ball  than  the  deer  and 
o\k.     Lieutenant  Pike  thinks  that  in  the  open  prai- 


279 

ries,  the  bow  and  arrow  could  be  used  to  better  ad- 
vantage than  the  gun,  particularly  on  horseback,  for 
you  might  ride  immediately  along  side  the  animal 
and  strike  it  where  you  pleased.*  The  Indians  em- 
ploy both  the  rifle,  and  arrow,  and  in  the  prairies  of 
Missouri  and  Arkansas,  pursue  the  herds  on  horse- 
back; but  on  the  upper  Mississippi,  where  they  are 
destitute  of  horses,  they  make  amends  for  this  defi- 
ciency by  several  ingenious  stratagems.  One  of  the 
most  common  of  these  is  the  method  of  hunting  with 
fire.  For  this  purpose  a  great  number  of  hunters 
disperse  themselves  around  a  large  prairie  where 
herds  of  buffalo  happen  to  be  feeding,  and  setting  fire 
to  the  grass  encompass  them  on  all  sides.  The  buffa- 
lo, having  a  great  dread  of  fire,  retire  towards  the 
centre  of  the  prairie  as  they  see  it  approach,  and  here 
being  pressed  together  in  great  numbers,  many  are 
trampled  under  foot,  and  the  Indians  rushing  in  with 
their  arrows  and  musketry,  slaughter  immense  num- 
bers in  a  short  period.  It  is  asserted  that  a  thou- 
sand animals  have  been  killed  by  this  stratagem  in 
one  day.  They  have  another  method  of  hunting  by 
driving  them  over  precipices,  which  is  chiefly  prac- 
tised by  the  bands  inhabiting  the  Missouri.  To  de- 
coy the  herds,  several  Indians  disguise  themselves  in 
the  skins  of  the  buffalo,  taken  off  entire,  and  by  coun- 
terfeiting the  lowing  of  this  animal  in  distressj 
they  attract  the  herds  in  a  certain  direction, 
and  when  they  are  at  full  speed,  suddenly  disappear 
behind  a  cleft  in  the  top  of  a  precipice  when  those 
animals  which  are  in  front  on  reaching  the  brink,  are 
pushed  over  by  those  pressing  behind,  and  in  this 

*  Pike's  Expeditions,  page  46. 


280 

manner  great  numbers  are  crushed  to  death.  These 
practices  are  less  common  now  than  formerly,  the 
introduction  of  fire  arms  among  most  of  the  tribes, 
putting  it  into  the  power  of  almost  every  individual 
to  kill  sufficient  for  the  support  of  his  family.  By  a 
very  bad  policy,  however,  they  prefer  the  flesh  of 
the  cows,  which  will  in  time  destroy  the  species. — 
Few  of  the  native  animals  of  the  American  forest 
contribute  more  to  the  comforts  of  savage  socie- 
ty than  the  buffalo.  Its  skin  when  dressed,  by  a 
process  peculiar  to  them,  forms  one  of  the  princi- 
pal articles  of  clothing.  The  Sioux  tribes  particu- 
larly excel  in  the  method  of  dressing  it,  and  are 
very  much  in  the  habit  of  ornamenting  their  dresses 
with  porcupine  quills,  and  paints.  The  skin  dress- 
ed with  the  hair  on,  supplies  them  with  blankets, 
and  constitutes  those  durable  and  often  beautiful 
sleigh-robes  which  are  now  in  such  universal  use 
in  the  United  States  and  the  Canadas.  The  tal- 
low of  this  animal,  as  well  as  the  beef,  has  also 
become  an  article  of  commerce,  particularly  in  the 
south  western  states  and  territories,  and  its  horns 
are  exported  for  the  manufacture  of  powder-flasks. 
The  tongue  is  considered  superior  in  flavour  to  that 
of  the  domestic  cow,  and  the  animal  is  often  hunt- 
ed for  no  other  purpose.  I  have  seen  stockings  and 
hats  manufactured  from  its  wool  with  a  little  addi- 
tion of  common  wool,  or  of  cotton.  This  practice 
is  very  common  among  the  white  hunters  of  Mis- 
souri and  Arkansas.  The  flesh  of  the  buffalo  is 
not  equal,  in  its  fresh  state,  to  that  of  the  cow  or 
ox,  but  is  superior  when  dried,  which  is  the  Indian 
mode  of  preserving  it. 


281 

The  attempts  which  have  been  made  to  domesti- 
cate this  animal,  have  not  been  attended  with  suc- 
cess. Calves  which  have  been  taken  in  the  woods 
and  brought  up  with  the  tame  breed,  have  afterwards 
discovered  a  wild  and  ungovernable  temper,  and 
manifested  their  savage  nature  by  breaking  down  the 
strongest  enclosures,  and  enticing  the  tame  cattle 
into  the  woods.  The  mixed  breed  is  said  to  be  bar- 
ren, like  the  mule.  The  period  of  gesticulation  is 
ascertained  to  be  twelve  months,  whereas  that  of  the 
cow  is  nine.  A  remarkable  proof  of  the  little  affin- 
ity existing  between  it,  and  the  domestic  breed  of 
cattle,  was  exhibited  a  few  years  ago  in  Canada, 
where  the  connexion  resulted  in  the  death  of  the 
cows  submitted  to  the  experiment. 

Naturalists  have  generally  considered  the  Ameri- 
can buffalo  {Bos  Bubalus)  of  the  same  species  with 
the  Bison  and  Aurochs  of  Europe  and  Asia,  the  difc 
ference  consisting  in  the  former  being  less  shaggy, 
the  hair  partaking  less  of  the  character  of  wool, 
and  the  conformation  of  the  hind  parts  of  the  animal 
being  stouter  and  more  like  that  of  the  common  ox. 
Several  varieties  of  this  species  are  found ;  as  the 
anoa,  seminudus,  bos  cafer,  wild  grunting  ox,  guave- 
ra,  musk  buffalo,  urus,  and  zebu,  or  Barbary   cow. 

The  bison  is  at  present  found  throughout  the  south- 
ern parts  of  Asia  and  Africa,  and  is  said  to  attain  its 
greatest  size  at  Malabar,  Abyssinia  and  Madagas- 
car, where  the  extensive  savannahs  are  clothed 
with  the  most  luxuriant  herbage.  The  only  parts  of 
Europe  where  this  animal  is  now  found,  are  the  pro- 
vince of  Lithuania,  the  Carpathian  mountains,  and 
the  great  Hercynian  forest. 

In  America  the  buffalo  is  confined  to  the  regions 
36 


2»:i 

situated  between  the  3Jbt  and  49tti  degrees  of  north 
latitude,  and  west  of  the  Mississippi  river.  The 
only  part  of  the  country  east  of  this  rivery  where 
tlie  builalo  now  remains,  is  that  included  between 
the  falls  of  St.  Anthony  and  Sandy  Lake,  a  range 
of  about  six  hundred  miles.  South  of  the  31st  de- 
gree of  north  latitude  the  buffalo  is  not  found,  but  its 
place  is  supplied  in  Mexico  by  the  wild  ox,  without 
a  hunch,  which  is  considered  of  European  origin. 

Having  spent  several  hours  in  the  chase  of  this 
animal,  and  driven  the  herds  off  to  a  great  distance, 
we  embarked,  and  proceeded  down  the  river  until 
three  o'clock,  when  we  again  landed  on  a  high 
prairie  bank  on  the  west  shore,  at  the  site  of  an  old 
Indian  encampment  of  sixteen  lodges.  Here  we 
spent  the  remainder  of  the  afternoon  in  hunting  but- 
falo,  many  of  which  were  seen  on  the  contiguous 
plain,  and  encamped  at  night,  having  descended  the 
river  fifty-four  miles.  The  first  object  which  attract- 
ed our  attention  on  landing  was  an  Indian  sign,  or 
letter  of  birch  bark,  affixed  to  a  long  pole  in  the 
centre  of  the  deserted  encampment.  This  had  been 
left  for  the  information  of  the  Chippeways  by  a  large 
party  of  Sioux,  on  the  termination  of  an  excursion 
up  the  river,  for  the  purpose  of  meeting  with  the 
former.  As  we  carried  embassadors  of  peace  from 
the  Chippewny  nation,  they  approached  the  hiero- 
glyphical  sign  with  great  eagerness,  and  learned  its 
import  with  equal  satisfaction.  By  it,  they  were  in- 
formed, that  at  the  solicitation  of  the  commandant  of 
the  American  garrison  at  St.  Peter's,  a  large  party  of 
the  Sioux  had  proceeded  thus  far  up  the  river  on  a 
mission  of  peace,  but  not  meeting  with  any  of  the 
Chippeways,  had  returned ;  and  that  they  were  equal* 


\y  disposed  for  peace  or  war.  The  number  of  the 
party, — the  chiefs  who  headed  them, — their  route, — 
the  situation  of  their  villages  on  the  St.  Peter's, — the 
American  garrison,  and  other  particulars  were  accu- 
rately delineated,  or  represented  by  symbols  and 
characters  in  common  use,  so  that  they  experienced 
no  difficulty  in  the  perusal,  and  explained  to  us  with 
great  facility  the  import  of  the  message.  I  have  al- 
ready adverted  to  this  method  of  communication  be- 
tween the  Indian  tribes  of  the  north,  and  can  now 
add,  that  the  information  given  in  this  instance,  was 
strictly  corroborated  on  our  arrival  at  St.  Petfir's. 

The  Mississippi  below  the  junction  of  the  river 
De  Corbeau,  pursues  a  more  direct  course  towards 
the  southwest.  This  has  been  particularly  observa- 
ble to-day.  The  current  continues  strong,  and  pre- 
sents a  great  many  islands  and  rapids.  Piles  of  drift- 
wood appear  upon  the  heads  of  islands,  and  loose 
granitic  stones  at  the  rapids.  Snags  become  more 
frequent.  Several  rivers  and  creeks  join  the  river 
on  either  shore,  but  none  of  any  considerable  mag- 
nitude. The  soil  continues  alluvial  on  both  banks — 
Ducks,  geese,  pelican,  swan,  and  snipe,  have  been 
frequently  seen; — also,  the  eagle,  hawk,  buzzard, 
heron,  pigeon,  and  red  squirrel.  We  passed  Pike's 
Block  House  about  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning.  Op- 
posite our  present  encampment,  on  the  east  side  of 
the  river,  there  is  a  bed  of  granite,  two  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  in  height.  It  is  considerably  mixed  with 
hornblende.  On  ascending  it  I  found  the  most 
charming  prospects  in  every  direction.  It  commands 
a  view  of  the  prairies  on  both  banks  of  the  Missis- 
sippi, with  the  windings  of  the  stream,  and  its  isl- 
ands and  rapids  for  many  miles   above  and  below^ 


284 

and  the  interest  of  the  scene  was  greatly  enhanced 
at  the  moment,  by  the  herds  of  buffalo  and  deer 
which  were  seen  in  various  groupes  upon  the  prai- 
ries, and  the  delightful  influence  of  a  mild  and 
transparent  summer  atmosphere. 

The  Indians  of  this  region  subsist  wholly  without 
the  use  of  salt  with  their  provisions. 

LXVII.  Day.— (July  29th.)— There  is  a  heavy  fall  of 
dew  upon  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  during  the  sum- 
mer nights  which  is  in  some  measure  proportioned, 
to  the  beat  of  the  preceding  day;  and  increases  in  a 
direct  ratio  from  its  sources  to  its  mouth.  An  expo- 
sure to  this  is  considered  particularly  injurious  to 
health,  and  is  thought  to  be  among  the  predisposing 
causes  of  malignant  fevers.  Any  article  capable  of 
imbibing  moisture,  which  is  left  out  of  the  tent 
during  the  night,  becomes  as  completely  saturated 
with  water,  as  if  it  had  been  exposed  to  a  shower 
of  rain. 

In  the  course  of  the  night  a  pack  of  wolves  were 
heard  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  river.  There  is 
something  doleful  as  well  as  terrific  in  the  howling  of 
this  animal,  particularly  when  we  start  from  a  sound 
«leep  during  the  stillness  of  night.  It  is,  howe- 
ver, little  to  be  dreaded,  and  I  have  never  heard  of 
an  instance  of  its  making  an  attack  upon  man,  in 
the  wilderness,  although  such  instances  have  fre- 
quently occurred  on  the  frontiers  of  our  settlements. 
The  cause  of  this  apparently  reversed  order  of  na- 
ture is  obvious.  In  the  wilderness  the  wolf  finds  no 
difficulty  in  preying  upon  deer,  buffalo,  and  elk,  and 
is  thus  supplied  with  food;  but  such  animals  as 
linger  upon    the    borders    of  society,    where  the 


285 

deer  has  long  been  driven  off,  are  compelled  to  re- 
sort to  sheep  and  young  cattle,  and  in  cases  of  ex- 
treme hunger,  are  excited  to  acts  of  the  most  daring 
ferocity,  and  will  attack  men  and  horses,  and  what- 
ever happens  to  fall  in  their  way.  There  are  two 
species  of  the  wolf  upon  the  banks  of  the  Mississip- 
pi,— the  common  grey  wolf  (Cams  Lupus)  and  the 
prairie  wolf,  which  is  unknown  in  Europe.  The 
latter  consists  of  two  varieties,  the  yellow  and  black 
wolf.  Both  are  much  smaller  than  the  canis  lupus, 
and  hunt  together  in  larger  packs.  They  possess  in 
a  superior  degree  the  cunning,  ferocity,  and  activity 
of  the  species,  and  are  characterized  by  a  fierce, 
sparkling  yellow  eye,  and  very  sharp  pointed  ears. 
The  yellow  kind  exceeds  the  terrier  dog  in  size, 
which  it  also  very  much  resembles  in  the  shape  of 
its  head,  and  the  general  conformation  of  its  body. 
The  black  wolf  is  larger,  and  I  have  seen  an  animal 
of  this  kind  killed  on  the  Missouri  prairies,  measuring 
three  feet  nine  inches,  from  the  tip  of  the  nose  to 
the  insertion  of  the  tail,  being  covered  in  every  part 
with  long  black  hair,  but  so  coarse  and  bristly  that 
no  value  is  set  upon  it  by  the  traders.  The  sagaci- 
ty of  the  black  and  yellow  prairie  wolf,  is  such  that 
when  in  a  gang  in  the  pursuit  of  deer,  or  buffalo, 
they  will  divide  themselves  into  separate  parties, 
and  surrounding  their  prey,  in  a  valley  or  open  prai- 
rie, seldom  fail  to  take  a  number,  particularly  such 
as  are  disabled  by  hunters,  accidents,  or  age,  or  be- 
come un wieldly  from  over-feeding. 

There  is  another  sound  wbich  will  frequently  dis- 
turb the  nightly  rest  of  the  traveller  in  the  region  of 
the  Mississippi.  It  is  the  half-human  cry  of  the 
Strix  Nyctea,  or  great  white  owl,  which  inhabits  the 


■286 

coldest  regions  of  our  continent,  and  is  seldom 
found  south  of  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony.  This  ani- 
mal utters  its  most  hideous  cry,  a  few  moments 
before  the  first  glimpse  of  day  light,  and  is 
thus  the  unerring  herald  of  day.  At  this  time 
it  betakes  itself  to  those  recesses  where  it  spends 
the  day  in  seclusion.  With  this  warning  cry  we 
were  called  to  embark,  and  quit  our  encampment 
at  half  past  four,  the  weather  fair,  apd  the  ther- 
mometer standing  at  50°.  On  descending  six  miles, 
we  passed  the  mouth  of  Sac  river,  a  stream  of  a 
hundred  yards  in  width,  entering  on  the  west  shore. 
This  is  pne  of  the  principal  hunting  grounds  of  the 
JVIinow  Kantong  band  of  Sioux.  It  is  represented 
as  a  gentle  river,  and  bordered  in  its  whole  course 
with  the  most  luxuriant  prairies,  interspersed  with 
copses  of  woods,  the  favorite  resort  of  buffalo,  elk. 
and  deer. 

At  ten  o'clock  we  encountered  a  formidable  ra- 
pid, called  the  Big  Falls,  which  consists  of  a  series 
of  breaks  and  schutes  extending;  about  eight  hun- 
dred  yards,  in  which  distance  the  river  may  be  esti- 
mated to  have  an  aggregate  fall  of  sixteen  feet.  The 
bed  of  the  river  at  this  fall  is  beset  with  sharp  frag- 
ments of  granitic  and  hornblende  rock,  which  also 
appear  in  rolled  masses  upon  the  shores.  The  next 
remarkable  trait  in  the  river  is  Prairie  rapids,  which 
arc  six  in  number,  and  have  a  mean  descent  of  about 
twenty  feet  in  five  miles. 

At  half  past  four  in  the  afternoon,  we  passed  the 
month  of  the  river  St.  Francis,  a  large  stream  falling 
in  on  the  east  shore.  For  a  great  distance  above 
its  mouth  it  runs  parallel  with  the  Mississippi,  which 
is  the   cause  that  so  few  tributaries  enter  the  latter 


207 

on  the  east  shore  after  passing  the  mouth  of  the  riv- 
er De  Corbeau.  Its  principal  fork  is  Muddy  river. — 
Here  Carver  terminated  his  travels  up  the  Missis- 
sippi in  the  year  1765 ;  and  Father  Hennepin  in 
1681.  An  island  in  the  river  opposite  its  mouth 
hides  the  view  of  it  from  those  who  descend  by  the 
west  channel. 

At  six  o'clock  we  passed  Crow  river,  which  is 
tributary  on  the  western  bank.  It  is  a  long  stream 
and  has  a  width  of  forty  yards  at  its  mouth,  which 
it  preserves  a  great  distance  up.  It  is  ascended  in 
canoes  to  within  a  few  miles  of  its  source,  which  is 
six  days  journey  west  of  the  Mississippi.  Its  prin- 
cipal fork  is  Tawtonga  or  Buffalo  creek,  which  ori- 
ginates in  Dog  lake,  in  the  centre  of  a  boundless 
prairie.  This  is  one  of  the  best  hunting  grounds  of 
the  Sioux. 

We  encamped  five  miles  below  Crow  river  on  the 
east  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  having  been  thirteen 
hours  in  our  canoes,  and  descended  ninety  miles. 
The  current  of  the  river  this  day  has  been  unusually 
strong,  with  many  rapids  and  ripples. — Very  few 
snags  have  been  observed. — A  great  many  islands 
were  passed  in  the  afternoon,  and  some  small  sand 
bars,  being  the  first  noticed. — Prairies  continue  on 
both  banks,  with  occasional  clumps  of  trees,  and 
forests  of  two  or  three  miles  in  extent.  The  growth 
of  wood  upon  the  islands  is  elm,  black  and  white 
walnut,  maple,  oak,  and  ash : — upon  the  prairies, 
dwarf  black  oak.  Along  the  banks  of  the  river,  peb- 
bles of  quartz,  granite,  hornblende,  carnelian,  and 
agate  are  seen.  In  one  instance,  I  picked  up  a  fine 
specimen  of  agatized  wood,  such  as  is  common  up- 
on the  lower  Mississippi,  and  along  the  shores  of  the 


283 

Missouri.  The  colour  of  the  water  continues  a  light 
chocolate  brown  in  the  stream,  but  appears  clear  in 
small  quantities.  Pebblesat  the  bottom  of  the  river 
ran  be  plainly  discerned  through  it  at  four  or  five 
feet  depth.  The  quality  of  the  soil  of  the  prairies 
improves  as  we  descend,  and  during  the  last  twenty 
miles  may  be  considered  of  the  richest  kind.  The 
prairies  are  in  fact  covered  with  a  stratum  of  the  most 
recently  deposited,  black,  marly  alluvion,  which 
appears  to  be  composed,  in  a  great  degH^of  vege- 
table mould.  It  is  entirely  destitute  of  those  round- 
ed pebbles  and  stones  which  generally  characterize 
upland  soils,  although  bottomed  upon  a  stratum  of 
alluvion  in  which  they  are  abundantly  disseminated. 
The  whole,  apparently,  rests  immediately  upon  gra- 
nitic and  hornblende  rock,  which  occasionally  rises 
through  it,  in  rugged  peaks,  and  beds. 

LXVIII.  Day.— (July  30th.)— It  was  five  o'clock  in 
the  morning  when  we  left  our  encampment.  On  de- 
scending six  miles  we  reached  the  mouth  of  the 
Mississawgaigon  or  Rum  river,  a  large  and  long- 
stream  coming  in  upon  the  east  bank.  It  originates  in 
Spirit  Lake,  which  is  ten  days  journey  north  of  its 
mouth.  This  lake  is  twelve  miles  long  and  four  in 
width,  of  an  irregular  shape  and  beautified  with  se- 
veral islands.  It  is  only  two  days  journey  south- 
west of  Sandy  Lake.  Its  waters  are  very  transpa- 
rent, and  afford  a  variety  of  fish,  and  the  Indians 
say  that  its  shores  are  strewed  with  an  infinite  varie- 
ty of  clear  and  shining  stones,  some  of  which  are 
as  large  as  a  man's  fist.  These,  from  their  descrip- 
tions, are  presumed  to  be  carnelians,  agates,  chalce- 
donies, and  other  silicious  gems,  which  are  known 


h 


289 

to  be  the  product  of  the  contiguous  regions.  Spir- 
it Lake  lias  two  inlets,  one  of  which  called  Akeek 
Seeba,  originates  a  few  miles  west  of  the  banks  of 
St  Louis  river  near  the  Grand  Rapids ;  the  other 
is  ascended  in  canoes  within  a  day's  walk  of  Lower 
Red  Cedar  Lake. 

The  falls  of  St:  Anthony  are  fourteen  miles  be- 
low the  confluence  of  the  Mississawgaeigon.      We 
reached  the  upper  end  of  the  portage  at  half  past 
eight  in  the  morning,  and  while  the  voyageurs  were 
busied  in  the  transportation  of  our  baggage,  hastened 
to   take  a  view  of  this   celebrated  cataract.     The 
river  has  a  perpendicular  pitch  of  forty  feet,  with  a 
formidable   rapid  above  and  below.      An  island  at 
the  brink  of  the  falls,  divides  the  current  into  two 
sheets,  the  largest  of  which  passes  on  the  west  of 
the  island.      The  rapid  below  the    schute  is  filled 
with  large  fragments  of  rock,  in  the  interstices  of 
which  some  alluvial  soil  has  accumulated,  which 
nourishes   a  stinted  growth  of  cedars.     This  rapid 
extends  half  a  mile,  in  which  distance  the  river  may 
be  estimated  to  have  a  descent  offifteen  feet.     The 
rapid  preceding   the  falls,  has  a  descent  of  about 
ten   feet  in  the  distance  of  three  hundred    yards, 
where  the  river  runs  with  a  swift  but  unruffled  cur- 
rent over  a  smooth  stratum  of  rock  a  little  inclined 
towards  the  brink.      The  entire  fall  therefore  in  a 
little  less  than  three   fourths  of  a  mile,  is  sixty-five 
feet.     The  rock  is  a  white  sand  stone  overlayed  by 
secondary  lime  stone.      This   formation  is  first  seen 
half  a  mile  above  the  falls,  where  it  breaks  out  ab- 
ruptly on  the   banks  of  the  river.     The  perspective 
view  (Plate  VII.)  is  taken  from  a  point  about  two 
hundred  yards  below  the  schute  of  the  falls  on  the 

37 


290 

aast  shore,  and  a  short  distance  west  of  the  portage 
path.      The  scene  presents  nothing  of  that  majesty 
and  awe  which  is  experienced   in   the  gulf  below 
ihe   cataract  of    Niagara.      We  do  not  hear  that 
deep  and  appalling  tone  in  the  roar  of  water,  nor 
do  we  feel  that  tremulous  motion  of  the  rocks  under 
our  feet,  which  impresses  the  visitor  at  Niagara  with 
an  idea  of  greatness,  that  its  magnificent  outline  of 
rock  and  water,  would  not,   independently,  create, 
The  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  however,  present  attrac. 
tionsofa  different  nature,  and  have  a  simplicity  of 
character  which  is  very  pleasing.      We  see  nothing 
in  the  view  which  may  not  be  considered  either  rude 
or  picturesque,  and  perhaps  there  are  few  scenes  in 
the  natural  topography  of  our  country,  where  these 
features  are  blended  with  more  harmony  and  effect. 
It  is  in  fact  the  precise  point  of  transition,   where 
the  beautiful  prairies  of  the   upper  Mississippi,   are 
merged  in  the  rugged  Hme  stone   blutfs  which  skirt 
the  banks  of  the  river  from  that  point  downward. — - 
With  this  change  of  geological  character,    we  per- 
ceive a  corresponding  one,  in  the  vegetable  produc- 
tions, and  the  eye  embraces  at  one  view,  the  copses 
of  oak  upon  the  prairies,  and  the   cedars  and  pines 
which  characterize  the  calcareous  blufls.     Nothing 
can  exceed  the  beauty  of  the  prairies  which  skirt 
both  banks  of  the  river  above  the  falls.  They  do  not, 
however,   consist  of  an  unbroken  plain,  but  are  di- 
versified  with  gentle  ascents  and  small  ravines  co- 
vered  with  the  most  luxuriant  growth  of  grass  and 
heath-dowers,    interspersed   with   groves    of    oak, 
which  throw  an  air  of  the  most  picturesque  beauty 
over  the  scene. 


291 

It  is  probable,  too,  that  during  the  high  floods  of 
the  Mississippi  in  the  spring  and  fall,  this  cataract 
attains  a  character  of  sublimity,  from  the  increased 
volume  and  tumult  of  the  water,  and  the  inundation" 
of  the  accumulated  debris,  which  presents,  at  this 
season,  so  rugged  an  aspect.  It  is  said,  also,  that  this 
accession  of  water  produces  a  cloud  of  spray  which 
must  take  away  a  certain  nakedness  in  the  appear- 
ance of  the  falls,  that  will  strike  every  visitor  who 
has  previously  enjoyed  the  sight  of  the  Niagara. 

The  European  name  of  these  falls  is  due  to  fa- 
ther Lewis  Hennepin,  a  French  missionary  of  the 
order  of  Recollects,  who  first  visited  them  in  1680. 
The  Indian  name  in  the  Narcotah,  or  Sioux  language, 
is  Oivah-Menah,  or  the  falling  water. 

At  the  east  side  of  the  river,  close  under  the 
sheet  of  the  principal  column  of  water,  the  Indians 
procure  a  kind  of  clay  of  a  brownish  red  colour 
with  which  they  paint  their  canoes  and  baskets.  It 
appears  to  be  an  aluminous  substance  very  much 
jnixed  with  iron  pyrites  in  a  state  of  decomposition, 
and  penetrated  with  vegetable  juices.  It  is  found 
in  a  crevice  about  ten  feet  below  the  water,  and 
they  pretend  that  it  is  renewed  when  taken  away. 

The  length  of  the  portage  around  the  falls,  as 
measured  by  Lieutenant  Pike  in  1305,  is  two  hun- 
dred and  sixty  poles,  but  in  high  water  is  somewhat 
less.  The  width  of  the  river  on  the  brink  of  the 
fall  is  stated  at  two  hundred  and  twenty -seven  yards, 
but  narrows  to  two  hundred  and  nine  yards  a  short 
distance  below,  where  the  river  is  compressed  be- 
tween opposing  ledges  of  rock. 

We  completed  the  portage  of  our  canoes  and  bag- 
gage at  half  past  one,  and  descending  the  river  nine 


292 

miles,  reached  the  American  garrison  at  St.  Peter's 
at  three,  and  were  received  with  a  national  salute. — • 
The  spot  which  it  is  proposed  to  fortify  is  a  high  bluff 
at  the  junction  of  the  river  St.  Peter's  with  the  Mis- 
sissippi— a  spot  which  commands  the  navigation  of 
both  rivers,  and  appears  capable  of  being  rendered 
impregnable  with  little  expense.  It  is  in  fact  the 
same  point  of  land  which  first  suggested  to  Lieuten- 
ant Pike  the  idea  of  its  being  an  eligible  situation 
for  a  fort,  and  led  to  its  subsequent  purchase  from  the 
Sioux  Indians.  This  purchase  was  effected  at  a 
treaty*  held  by  Lieut.  Pike  in  September,  1805,  by 
which  they  cede  to  the  United  States  the  district  of 
country  from  the  junction  of  the  St.  Peter's  with 
the  Mississippi,  to  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony  inclusive, 
and  extending  nine  miles  on  each  side  of  the  river. 
The  consideration  for  this  grant  was  two  thousand 

*  The  following  is  (he  Treaty  alluded  to : 

At  a  conference  held  between  the  United  States  of  America 
and  the  Sioux  nation  of  Indians  :  lieutenant  Z.  M.  Pike,  of  the 
army  of  the  United  States,  and  the  chiefs  and  the  warriors  of 
s;tid  tribe,  have  agreed  to  the  following  articles,  which,  when 
ratified  and  approved  of  by  the  proper  authority,  shall  be  binding 
on  both  parties. 

Art.  1.  That  the  Sioux  nation  grant  unto  the  United  States, 
for  the  purpose  of  establishment  of  military  posts,  nine  miles  square 
at  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Croix,*  also  from  below  the  confluence  o( 
the  Mississippi  and  St.  Peter's  up  the  Mississippi  to  include  the 
falls  of  St.  Anthony,  extending  nine  miles  on  each  side  of  the 
river,  that  the  Sioux  nation  grants  to  the  United  States  the  full 
sovereignty  and  power  over  said  district  for  ever. 

Art.  2.  That,  in  consideration  of  the  above  grants,  the  United 
States  shall  pay  (filled  up  by  the  senate  with  2000  dollars.^ 

Abt.  3.  The  United  States  promise,  on  their  part,  'to  permit 

•  My  demand  was  one  league  below  :  their  reply  was  u  from  below."— » 
I  imagine  (without  iniquity)  they  may  be  made  to  agree; 


293 

dollars.  It  could  hardly  have  been  anticipated  at 
that  time,  when  there  were  probably  not  more  than 
a  hundred  American  families  in  the  extensive  re- 
gion now  composing  the  states  of  Indiana,  Illinois, 
and  Missouri,  that  in  the  short  space  of  thirteen 
years  the  progress  of  our  settlements  would  have 
demanded  the  occupancy  of  a  post  in  so  remote  a 
section  of  the  union.  Yet  it  was  loudly  called  for 
even  within  that  time,  as  a  protection  to  the  defence- 
less settlers  on  our  northwestern  and  southwestern 
frontiers — and  as  a  check  to  the  undue  influence 
which  the  British  traders  have  too  long  exercised 
over  the  Indian  tribes  inhabiting  the  territories  of 
the  United  States.  Yielding  to  this  expression  of 
the  public  voice,  the  government  determined  to  es- 
tablish a  garrison  at  St.  Peter's.  The  force  desig- 
nated to  accomplish  this  object  consisted  of  three 
hundred  men  of  the  sixth  regiment  of  infantry  un- 
der the  orders  of  Colonel  Leavenworth,  who  had 
distinguished  himself  as  commandant  of  the  ninth 

the  Sioux  to  pass  and  repass,  hunt,  or  make  other  use  of  the  said 
districts  as  they  have  formerly  done  without  any  other  exception 
than  those  specified  in  article  first. 

In  testimony  whereof  we,  the  undersigned,  have 
hereunto  set  our  hands  and  seals,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  river  St.  Peter's,  on  the  23d  day  of 
September,  1805. 

%.  M.  Pike,  1st  lieut.  (L.  S.) 

and  agent  at  the  above  conference, 
his 
Le  Petit  Cobbeau,     X      (L.  S.) 
mark 
his 
Way  Ago  Enagee,      X     (L.  S.) 


mark. 


% 


294 
• 
and  twenty-second  regiments  in  the  battle  of  Chip- 
peway.*  They  left  Detroit  in  the  spring  of  18J9, 
and  proceeding  by  the  way  of  Green  Bay  and  the 
Fox  and  Ousconsing  rivers  entered  the  Mississippi 
at  Prairie  du  Chien,  where  they  left  a  detachment  to 
erect  a  garrison,  and  proceeding  up  the  river  reach- 
ed the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peter's  in  season  to  com- 
plete their  cantonements  before  the  commencement 
of  winter.  They  first  located  themselves  on  the 
rich  bottomlands  which  extend  along  the  south  bank 
of  the  St.  Peter's,  but  not  finding  it  a  healthy  situa- 
tion, removed  in  the  spring  of  1820,  to  an  eminence 
on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  a  mile  distant 
from  the  old  cantonement — a  situation  which  is 
extremely  pleasant  and  salubrious,  and  where  they 
will  remain  until  the  permanent  works  are  comple- 
ted upon  the  bluff  at*  the  junction  of  the  twc^rivers. 
Since  their  arrival,  the  garrison  have  cleared  and 
put  under  cultivation  about  ninety  acres  of  the 
choicest  bottom  and  prairie  lands,  which  is  chiefly 
planted  with  Indian  corn  and  potatoes  ;  besides  a 
large  hospital — a  Tegmental,  and  several  company, 
and  private  gardens,  which  supply  vegetables  in  great 
abundance  for  all  the  men.  Here  we  were  first  pre* 
sented  with  green  corn,  pease,  beans,  cucumbers, 
beets,  radishes,  lettuce,  &c.  The  first  green  pease 
were  eaten  here  on  the  15th  of  June,  and  the  first 
green  corn  on  the  20th  of  July.  Much  of  the  corn 
is  already  too  hard  to  be  boiled  for  the  table,  and 
some  ears  can  be  selected  which  are  ripe  enough 
for  seed  corn.  We  found  the  wheat  entirely  ripe, 
and  melons  nearly  so.  These  are  the  best  com- 
mentaries that  can  be  offered  upon  the  soil  and  cli- 

'  b-'eo  Fay's  Ealtles,  page  215. 


295 

mate.  To  ascertain,  however,  that  the  former  is  of 
the  richest  quality,  a  cursory  examination  is  only 
required.  It  presents  all  the  peculiar  appearances 
which  characterize  the  fertile  alluvions  of  the  valley 
of  the  Ohio.  In  favour  of  the  climate  all  the  offi- 
cers of  the  garrison  speak  in  terms  of  the  highest 
admiration.  The  atmosphere  is  represented  as 
beautifully  serene  and  transparent  during  the  sum- 
mer season,  and  free  from  that  humidity  which  pro- 
duces haziness  and  opacity;  and  although  the  mete- 
orological registers*  of  the  garrison  indicate  a  high 
atmospheric  temperature,  it  is  observed  that  the 
fervour  of  the  heat  is  greatly  mitigated  by  the  al- 
most continual  currents  of  the  air,  which  prevent 
the  weather  from  becoming  sultry  or  oppressive.  It 
is  probable,  however,  that  this  effect  is  in  some 
measure  owing  to  the  eligible  situation  of  the  garri- 
son, at  an  elevation  of  about  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  above  the  Mississippi  river.  The  latitude  of 
St.  Peter's  is  45°.  — .  — . 

LXIX.  Day.— {July  31  st)— The  river  St.  Peter's 
flows  through  the  centre   of  the  Sioux  territories, 

*  It  is  rendered  the  duty  of  the  Post-Surgeons  at  the  frontier 
garrisons  to  keep  a  meteorological  register  of  the  weather,  and  to 
transmit  abstracts  of  it,  periodically,  to  the  War  Department. — 
With  a  view  of  comparing  the  results  with  my  own  observations, 
and  of  drawing  some  general  conclusions,  with  regard  to  the  cli- 
mate of  St.  Peter's,  1  called  on  Doctor  P 11  @f  the  garrison  and 

requested  permission  to  copy  his  register,  but  regret  that  he  did 
not  think  proper  to  assent  without  an  injunction  that  it  should  not 
be  made  public.  Is  there  any  thing  in  the  state  of  the  weather  at 
St.  Peter's,  of  so  much  importance  to  the  government,  as  to  re- 
quire secrecy  ?  I  am  satisfied  that  gentlemen  of  the  medical  pro- 
fession in  the  United  States  do  not  often  subject  themselves  to  the 
imputation  of  narrow-mindedness  or  illiberality. 


296 

and  is  both  the  largest  and  the  least  known,  of  all 
the  tributaries  of  the  upper  Mississippi.  It  has  ne- 
ver been  explored  except  by  voyageurs  and  traders? 
whose  whole  attention  has  been  directed  to  the  col- 
lection of  peltries  from  the  aborigines,  and  remains 
to  this  moment,  undescribed  in  American  geography. 
All,  however,  who  have  been  questioned  on  the 
subject,  both  Indians  and  traders,  agree  in  saying, 
that  it  is  a  long  stream,  made  up  of  a  great  many 
tributaries,  and  flowing  in  its  whole  extent  through 
a  country  of  the  most  luxuriant  fertility  and  delight- 
ful appearance.  Carver  ascended  it  two  hundred 
miles,  and  found  it  to  preserve  in  that  distance,  a 
uniform  width  of  about  one  hundred  yards,  with  a 
great  depth  of  water,  and  represents  its  southern 
fork  as  originating  very  near  the  banks  of  the  Mis- 
souri, and  its  northern,  in  a  district  of  highlands 
called  the  Shining  Mountains.  ;;  These  mountains" 
he  observes,  "  take  their  name  from  an  infinite  num- 
ber of  crystal  "Stones  of  an  amazing  size,  with  which 
they  are  covered ;  and  which  when  the  sun  shinet 
full  upon  them,  sparkle  so  as  to  be  seen  at  a  very 
great  distance."  After  the  most  diligent  enquiry, 
1  have  not  been  able  to  procure  any  information  con- 
cerning these  mountains,  or  their  crystalline  pro- 
ductions. To  the  first  tributary  of  the  St.  Peter's  on 
the  northern  bank,  falling  in  forty  miles  above  its 
mouth,  Carver  gave  his  own  name,  which  I  have 
adopted  upon  th£  chart  of  our  track.  The  other 
tributary  most  known  is  the  Terre  Bleu,  or  Blue- 
earth  river,  which  flows  in  from  the  south,  a  hun- 
dred miles  west  of  the  Mississippi,  by  a  mouth  of 
fifty  yards  in  width.  It  is  chiefly  noted  for  the  blue 
clay  which  the  Indians  procure  upon  its  banks,  and 


297 

which  is  much  employed  in  painting  their  faces  and 
other  parts  of  their  bodies.  The  locality  of  this 
substance,  as  communicated  by  the  Indians  to  Go- 
vernor Cass,  is  the  declivity  of  a  hill  one  hundred 
and  twenty  feet  in  height,  in  the  rear  of  the  village 
of  Sissitongs,  one  mile  above  its  confluence  with  the 
St.  Peter's.  It  is  found  at  the  foot  of  a  sand  stone 
bluff,  between  two  strata  of  the  rock,  in  a  vein  about 
fifteen  inches  in  thickness.  They  have  dug  under  it,  so 
far  as  a  man  can  go  leaving  out  his  legs.  The  vein 
does  not  extend  far  up  and  down  the  river.  It  is  eleva- 
ted about  twenty  feet  above  the  level  of  the  waters 
of  the  river,  during  the  highest  floods.  Three  miles 
below  this,  on  the  St.  Peter's,  there  is  a  vein  of 
green  clay,  of  similar  size,  and  situated  between 
layers  of  the  same  kind  of  rock.  About  half  way 
up  a  perpendicular  bluff  of  rock,  (they  say)  there  is 
a  breajs  or  platform,  fifty  feet  broad,  with  a  spring 
running  over  it.  The  clay  is  found  where  this  spring 
issues  from  the  rock,  and  is  abundant.  I  procured 
specimens  of  both  these  varieties  of  clay.  They 
appear  to  present  alumine  in  combination  with  sub- 
stances with  which  it  has  not  heretofore  been  observ- 
ed. They  are  considerably  mixed  with  sand,  and  dry 
in  the  air  without  a  disposition  to  crack  in  the  man- 
ner of  common  clays.  This  is  probably  owing  to 
the  admixture  of  sand,  which  by  rendering  the  mass 
porous  in  a  higher  degree,  allows  it  to  part  with  its 
moisture  with  greater  rapidity.  The  two  varieties 
only  differ  in  the  intensity  of  colour,  one  being  a 
light  green,  the  other  partaking  somewhat  of  blue. 
The  colouring  matter  appears  to  be  carbonat  of  cop- 
per.   These  clays  possess  all  the  plasticity  of  com- 

38 


2:w 

mon  clajs  when  iirst  taken  up,  and  acquire  a  c6f> 
siderable  degree  of  hardness,  on  drying.  The  St 
Peter's  also,  affords  a  red  paint,  which  is  very  much 
employed  by  the  Sioux.  This  is  procured  at  a  spot 
called  the  Big  Stone,  at  the  extreme  head  of  the 
river.  A  large  spring  rises  from  a  level  dry  plain, 
and  a  few  feet  beyond  it,  this  paint  is  found.  They 
take  it  up  with  the  point  of  a  knife.  The  stratum  is 
about  eight  inches  thick,  but  just  below  the  surface 
is  mixed  with  common  earth.  It  is  perfectly  dry, 
and  void  of  all  adhesive  properties.  The  opening 
where  the  paint  is  procured,  is  about  ten  feet  in  di- 
ameter. It  has  long  been  resorted  to,  and  they  pre- 
tend that  the  quantity  is  annually  renewed.  The 
spring  is  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  in  diameter,  the  wa- 
ter good,  and  rises  in  great  abundance.  The  same 
substance  is  found  at  a  tew  other  places  e«  an  ad- 
joining prairie.  This  red  paint,  proves  to  be  the 
native  red  oxide  of  iron,  in  one  of  its  most  pure  and 
beautiful  forms.  By  sifting  it,  and  grinding  the 
powder  in  oil,  it  would  prove  a  valuable  and  dura- 
ble pigment,  and  its  preparation  may  hereafter  be- 
come an  object,  in  the  commerce  of  the  region. 

There  is  also  found  upon  some  parts  of  this  river 
a  white  clay,  which  has  been  thought  proper  for  the 
manufacture  of  fine  porcelain,  but  it  appears  to  be 
entirely  different  from  the  Petuntz  of  the  Chinese, 
or  the  porcelain  earth  of  Limoges,  or  Monekton.— 
The  latter  proceed  from  the  decomposition  ot 
graphic  granite  which  is  mostly  composed  of  feld- 
spar, and  occur  in  dry,  white,  friable  masses,  without 
any  of  that  pasticity  which  distinguishes  the  classes 
of  common  clays.     But  the  white  clay  of  St.  Peter's, 

is  very  adhesive,  and  resembles  the  colourless  clays 

^1 


299 

.^f  the  Rhine,  which  are  employed  in  the  lining  of  fur- 
naces where  an  intense  decree  of  heat  is  required, 
and  in  the  fabrication  of  chemical,  and  other  cruci- 
bles. The  specimens  which  I  procured,  are  veined  a 
little  with  red.  It  may  prove  valuable  in  the  mani- 
pulations of  the  glass-maker. 

This  river  has  long  been  noted  as  the  locality  of 
that  beautiful  red  stone  of  which  the  Indians  manu- 
facture the  bowls  of  their  pipes,  but  after  all  that 
has  been  said  on  the  subject,  by  Carver,Breckenridge9 
and  others,  it  does  not  appear  that  it  is  found  upon 
the  immediate  banks  of  this  stream.  The  quarry 
is  situated  in  the  prairie  country  intermediate  be- 
tween the  St.  Peter's  and  the  Sioux  river  of  the 
Missouri.  It  is  said  that  the  stratum  does  not  ex- 
ceed a  foot  in  thickness,  and  that  it  is  found  two  or 
three  feet  below  the  soil.  The  Indians  go,  once  a 
year  to  procure  their  supplies,  and  as  it  has  been  re- 
sorted to  for  a  very  long  period,  the  excavations  are 
said  to  be  extensive,  and  if  the  accounts  are  to  be 
relied  on,  cover  an  area  of  fifty  acres.  This  stone 
is  a  red  steatite,  intermediate  in  its  qualities,  between 
the  common  soap-stone  and  serpentine.  It  yields 
very  readily  to  the  knife  when  first  taken  from  the 
quarry,  and  as  it  has  no  grit,  may  be  sawed  without 
injury  to  a  common  hand  saw,  but  it  acquires  a  de- 
gree of  hardness  by  long  exposure  to  the  air.  It  will 
not  take  a  polish  by  the  processes  pursued  in  our 
marble-yards,  as  I  have  ascertained  by  submitting  a 
piece  of  the  stone  to  the  experiment,  but  the  Indian 
pipes  assume  a  glossy  appearance  after  long  use. — 
A  considerable  degree  of  skill  is  manifested  by  the 
Indians  in  cutting  their  pipes,  and  the  form  and  di- 
mensions are  regulated  by  a  scrupulous  regard  to 


300 

fashion.  The  bowls  are  invariably  an  inverted  cone 
with  a  massy  projection  from  the  small  end  for  re- 
ceiving the  stem,  as  represented  by  figure  4th  in 
plate  2d.  This  part  of  the  pipe  is  generally  orna- 
mented with  carved  work,  and  surmounted  with  a 
kind  of  comb.  The  stem  consists  of  wood,  and  is 
usually  from  three  to  four  feet  in  length  by  two  or 
three  inches  in  breadth  and  shaved  down  thin,  so  as 
to  resemble  a  spatula.  This  stem  is  highly  orna- 
mented with  porcupine  quills,  of  various  colours, 
neatly  braided  in  bands  and  checquer-work  with  the 
exception  of  a  small  part  on  each  end,  which  is  left 
to  be  painted  over  with  green  or  blue  clay.  (See 
fig.  8.  plate  II.)  Pipe  stems  of  this  kind  are  appro- 
priated to  the  chiefs,  and  are  carefully  laid  aside  for 
high  days  of  ceremony  and  feasting,  and  are  pre- 
sented to  the  agents  of  government,  as  tokens  of 
their  sincerity,  at  all  public  conferences.  There  is 
another  kind  of  stem  which  is  peculiar  to  the  com- 
mon warriors  or  soldiers,  and  consists  of  a  perfora- 
ted rod  profusely  ornamented  with  stained  horse 
hair,  eagle's  quills,  and  the  beautiful  green  feathers 
taken  from  the  head  and  neck  of  the  wild  duck. — 
(See  fig.  9.  plate  II  ) 

"A  little  way,"  says  Carver,  "from  the  mouth  of 
the  St.  Peter's,  on  the  north  side  of  it,  stands  a  hill 
one  part  of  which,  that  towards  the  Mississippi,  is 
composed  entirely  of  white  stone,  of  the  same  soft 
nature  as  that  1  have  before  described,  for  such 
indeed  is  all  the  stone  of  this  country  :  but  what  ap- 
pears remarkable  is,  that  the  colour  of  it  is  as  white 
as  the  driven  snow.  The  outward  part  of  it  is  crum- 
bled by  the  weather  into  heaps  of  sand,  of  which  a 
beautiful  composition  might  be  made ;  or,  I  am  of  opin- 


& 


301 

on,  that  when  properly  treated,  the  stone  itself  would 
row  harder  by  time,  and  have  a  very  noble  effect 
in  architecture."  The  rock  here  alluded  to,  is  a 
white  sand  stone,  which  is  first  seen  on  descending 
the  river,  at  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  and  forms  the 
imposing  bluffs  on  each  side  of  the  river  from  that 
point  to  the  vicinity  of  the  village  of  La  Petit  Cor- 
beau,  a  distance  of  thirty-five  miles.  It  is  overlayed 
by  a  stratum  of  secondary  lime  stone,  containing  pe- 
trified concholites,  and  attaining,  altogether,  an  el- 
evation of  about  two  hundred  feet  above  the  river. 
On  the  top  of  this  bluff,  at  a  spot  directly  opposite 
the  site  of  the  proposed  fortification  at  St.  Peter's, 
a  singular  formation  of  native  copper  has  recently 
been  discovered.  It  consists  of  small  pieces  of  this 
metal,  from  half  an  ounce  to  a  pound  in  weight,  scat- 
tered over  a  natural  hillock  of  small  water-worn  peb- 
bles, or  river-gravel.  This  is  covered  by  a  deposit 
of  ash-like  earth  of  a  foot  in  thickness  and  tapering 
away  very  gradually  towards  the  edge  of  the  hillock. 
Then  succeeds  a  deposit  of  six  feet  in  thickness,  of 
common  alluvial  soil,  in  which  large  fragments  of 
lime  stone,  quartz,  and  hornblende,  are  plentifully 
imbedded,  and  lastly,  a  stratum  of  rich  black  allu- 
vion without  any  imbedded  substances,  and  appa- 
rently composed,  in  a  great  measure,  of  decayed 
leaves  and  other  vegetable  matter.  This  is  eighteen 
inches  in  depth,  and  forms  the  surface  of  the  coun- 
try which  is  a  kind  of  open  highland  prairie,  covered 
with  grass,  and  scattering  oaks.  Being  told  of  this 
discovery  by  some  of  the  officers  of  the  garrison,  by 
whom  it  was  first  noticed  in  quarrying  stone  for 
chimnies,  I  visited  the  spot,  and  made  a  minute  ex- 
amination of  appearances,  and  in  the  course  of  a 


302 

short  time  found  a  number  of  specimens  of  the  cop- 
per at  the  spot  indicated.  They  were  all  enveloped 
with  a  green  oxide. 

The  river  St.  Peter's  enters  the  Mississippi  behind 
a  large  island  which  is  probably  three  miles  in  cir- 
cumference, and  is  covered  with  the  most  luxuriant 
growth  of  sugar  maple,  elm,  ash,  oak,  and  walnut. — 
At  the  point  of  embouchure  it  is  one  hundred  and 
fifty  yards  in  width,  with  a  depth  of  ten  or  fifteen 
feet.  Its  waters  are  transparent,  and  present  a  light 
blue  tint  on  looking  upon  the  stream.  Hence  the 
Indian  name  of  Waie-paw-mene-Sauta,  or  Clear-wa- 
ter-river. Among  the  forest  trees  upon  its  banks  we 
noticed  the  box-elder  (acer  negundo)  or  ash-leaved 
maple.  The  inner  bark  of  this  tree,  boiled  down 
with  the  common  nettle  into  a  strong  decoction,  is 
said  to  be  used  by  the  Indians  as  a  remedy  for  lues 
venerea,  and  to  be  a  sovereign  cure  for  that  disor- 
der. 

There  is  a  mineral  spring,  in  a  deep  ravine,  a 
mile  northwest  of  the  new  cantonement.  It  depo- 
sits a  yellow  earthy  substance  in  great  abundance 
upon  the  stones  and  sticks  of  wood  over  which  it 
passes.  The  water  appears  to  be  impregnated  with 
iron  and  sulphur.  Another  similar  but  less  copious 
spring  is  found  on  the  banks  of  the  Mississippi  very 
near  the  cantonement.  It  is  not,  however,  so  highly 
charged  with  chalybeate  properties. 

Among  the  luxuriant  herbage  which  character- 
izes the  prairies  of  St.  Peter's,  is  found  a  species  of 
aromatic  grass,  upon  which  a  high  value  is  set  by 
< he  aborigines.  It  throws  off  the  most  fragrant  odour, 
and  retains  its  sweetness,  in  a  considerable  degree,  in 
tjje  dried  state.     Jt  is  cut  in  a  particular  stage  of  jtt 


303 

growth  in  the  month  of  June,  when  it  throws  oft'  ife 
aroma  most  profusely,  and  continues  to  be  gathered 
until  it  has  run  into  seed,  and  is  too  dry  to  be  plait- 
ed. The  Indian  women  braid  it  up  in  a  very  inge- 
nious manner  and  lay  it  aside  in  their  cabins,  as  a 
kind  of  nostrum,  and  1  have  once  seen  it  in  the  form 
of  a  wreath  braided  with  certain  leaves  and  flowers, 
decorating  the  temples  of  a  warrior  who  had  just 
returned  in  triumph  from  battle.  Whether  this 
grass  is  the  same  with  the  heracleum  pauaces  of 
Kamschatka,  and  of  which  the  inhabitants  distil  an 
intoxicating  liquor,  similar  in  some  respects  to  bran- 
dy, 1  am  unable  to  determine.  It  appears  proba- 
ble it  may  possess  some  properties  in  common  with 
the  holcus  fragrans  of  Pursh. 

Sir  Francis  Drake  in  his  first  visit  to  the  Gulf  of 
California,  in  1587,  found  there  a  small  burrowing 
animal  which  he  describes  with  "  a  head  like  a  co- 
me, the  feet  of  a  mole,  and  the  tail  of  a  rat,  with  a 
pouch  under  each  cheek."  It  appears  to  be  the  same 
animal  which  is  here  known  by  the  name  of  the 
gopher,  and  which,  so  far  as  my  reading  extends, 
remains  und escribed  in  zoological  works,  1  had 
previously  noticed  the  ravages  of  this  animal  in  the 
prairies  of  Arkansas,  ploughing  up  in  some  instan- 
ces entire  fields,  and  mentioned  it  in  my  remarks 
upon  the  Missourian  mines,  but  owing  to  its  extreme 
shyness,  could  never  obtain  a  sight  of  the  animal. — 
We  were  here,  however,  gratified,  through  the  po- 
liteness of  Col.  Leavenworth,  who  directed  a  couple 
of  soldiers  to  exert  themselves  in  procuring  one. 
It  is  about  ten  inches  long  from  the  nose  to  the  in- 
sertion of  the  tail,  with  a  body  shaped  very  much 
like  that  of  a  large  wharf-rat,  which  it  also  resem- 


304 

bles  in  the  colour  of  its  hair  and  the  length  and  nu- 
dity of  its  tail.  Its  legs  are  short,  and  each  foot 
furnished  with  five  long  and  sharp  claws.  It  has 
two  large  fore  teeth  in  each  jaw,  resembling  those 
of  the  squirrel,  but  its  most  remarkable  character 
is  a  pouch  on  each  side  of  the  jaw  formed  by  a  du- 
plicature  of  the  skin  of  the  cheek.  These  project 
inwardly,  where  they  are  accommodated  by  an  un- 
usual width,  and  flattening  out  of  the  head.  As  the 
animal  lives  wholly  under  ground,  like  the  mole, 
these  pouches  serve  the  purpose  of  bags  for  carry- 
ing the  earth  out  of  their  holes.  They  are  filled 
with  the  fore  claws,  and  emptied  at  the  mouth  of  the 
hole  by  a  power  which  it  possesses  of  ejecting  the 
pouches  from  each  cheek,  in  the  manner  that  a  cap 
or  stocking  is  turned.  In  this  way  it  works  its  path 
under  ground,  and  ploughs  up  the  prairies  in  many 
places  in  such  a  manner,  that  the  white  hunters  of 
Missouri  and  Arkansas  frequently  avail  themselves 
of  the  labours  of  the  gopher  by  planting  corn  upon 
the  prairies  which  have  been  thus  mellowed.  It 
lives  entirely  upon  the  roots  of  plants  eating  all  with 
indiscriminate  voracity,  and  has  been  found  partic- 
ularly destructive  to  beets,  carrots,  and  other  tap- 
rooted  plants  in  the  military  gardens  at  St.  Peter's. 

LXX.  Day. — (dugust  1st.) — A  treaty  of  peace 
was  this  day  concluded  between  the  Sioux  and  Chip- 
peways  in  the  presence  of  Governor  Cass,  Colonel 
Leavenworth,  Mr.  Tallifierro,  the  Indian  agent  at 
St.  Peter's,  and  a  number  of  the  officers  of  the  gar- 
rison. These  two  nations  have  been  at  war  from  the 
earliest  times,  and  the  original  causes  of  it  are  en- 
tirely forgotten,  but  still  the  ancient  enmity  is  care- 


305 

fully  transmitted  from  father  to  son.  It  is  supposed 
to  have  arisen  from  a  dispute  respecting  the  limits  of 
their  territories,  and  favourite  hunting  grounds,  but 
if  so,  nothing  was  agreed  upon  in  the  present  in- 
stance to  obviate  the  original  causes  of  enmity.  It 
was  only  stipulated  that  hostilities  should  immediately 
cease  on  both  sides.  Several  of  the  chiefs  delivered 
their  opinions  upon  the  subject,  and  the  Sioux  ap- 
peared to  manifest  some  indifference  to  the  treaty, 
but  finally  consented  to  drop  the  hatchet ;  and  the^ 
ceremony  concluded  with  smoking  the  pipe  of 
peace  and  shaking  hands.  In  this  nearly  every  in- 
dividual present  united.  The  Sioux  who  attended 
the  council  were  numerous,  having  been  gathering 
in  from  the  different  villages  from  the  time  of  our  ar- 
rival ;  on  the  part  of  the  Chippeways  there  were  on- 
ly present  the  deputies  who  accompanied  us  for  that 
purpose  from  the  sources  of  the  Mississippi.  The 
conduct  of  the  latter,  on  our  approach  to  St.  Peter's, 
manifested  the  anxiety  they  felt  on  the  subject,  at 
the  same  time  that  it  reveals  a  new  trait  in  the  char- 
acter and  customs  of  the  Indian  tribes.  During  the 
first  two  or  three  days  after  our  departure  from  San- 
dy Lake,  they  proceeded  very  much  at  their  ease, 
sometimes  ahead  of  the  expedition,  at  others  in  the 
rear — very  seldom  with  us,  and  at  night  they  usual- 
ly encamped  by  themselves  three  or  four  hundred 
yards  off:  But  the  moment  we  entered  the  Sioux 
territories,  they  made  it  a  point  to  keep  close  with, 
the  expedition,  never  venturing  ahead,  or  lagging 
much  in  the  rear,  and  at  night  they  formed  their  en- 
campment in  the  midst  of  ours.  As  we  approached 
file  falls  of  St.  Anthony  they  requested  of  Governor 

39 


30b 

Cass,  a  ilag  for  their  canoe,  -which  was  granted,  anc: 
during  the  whole  of  that  day  they  kept  a  peace-pipe 
hoisted  on  the  bow  of  their  canoe.  When  we  em- 
barked below  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  they  com- 
menced beating  upon  their  drum,  singing,  whoop- 
ing, and  frequently  firing  into  the  air,  increasing  the 
tumult  as  we  came  near  to  the  fort,  that  the  Sioux 
might  be  advertised  of  their  approach ;  but  the  prin- 
cipal object  of  these  ceremonies  was  to  let  their  en- 
emies know,  that  they  came  unto  their  territories  up- 
on a  mission  of  peace — openly  and  boldly — and  ex- 
pected to  be  received  by  them  with  sentiments  of 
corresponding  liberality,  frankness,  and  concilia- 
tion. Nor  were  they  disappointed;  they  were  taken 
by  the  hand  in  a  friendly  manner  by  those  Sioux  who 
had  collected  on  our  first  landing  at  the  garrison, 
and  the  pipe  of  peace  immediately  smoked  between 
them,  and  this  ceremony  continued  as  fast  as  the 
Sioux  arrived,  so  that  the  object  of  the  public  trea- 
ty held  at  the  department  of  the  Indian  agent, 
where  these  ceremonies  were  repeated,  was  more 
with  a  view  of  having  it  witnessed  by  the  agents  of 
the  United  States,  than  to  render  binding  upon 
their  respective  tribes,  a  pacification  which  had  al- 
ready been  privately  and  individually  determined 
upon.  It  has,  however,  been  mentioned,  that  there 
was  some  indifference  manifested  to  this  treaty  on 
the  part  of  the  Sioux,  and  those  chiefs  and  warriors 
who  discovered  this  unconquerable  spirit  of  animos- 
ity, could  not  be  induced  to  smoke  the  pipe  of  peace, 
although  the  cessation  of  hostilities  had  their  tacit 
consent.  Whether  the  peace  will  prove  a  perma- 
nent one,  may  be  doubted.  All  their  ancient  preju- 
dices will  urge  them  to  a  violation  of  it,  while  past 


307 

experience   abundantly  shews   how  difficult  it  has 
been  to  preserve  a  lasting  peace  between  two  pow- 
erful rival  tribes  of  savages,  whose  predominant  dis- 
position is  war,  and  if  a  durable  peace  should  result 
from  the  laudable  exertions  of  the  agents  of  govern- 
ment in  effecting  this  pacific  conference,  it  will  pro- 
bably be  owing  in  a  great  measure  to  a  continuance 
of  those  exertions,  supported  as  they  are,  by  the  in- 
fluence of  the   garrisons  at  St.   Peter's,  Prairie  du 
Chien,  Council  Bluffs,  Green  Bay,  and  other  mi- 
nor posts  along  our  extensive  Indian  frontiers.     In 
1803,  a  treaty  of  peace  was  concluded  between  the 
Sioux  and   Chippeways  at  the  instance  of  Lieuten- 
ant Pike.      It  continued    as  long    as    he    remained 
among  them.     In  the  fall  of  1 1318,  a  pacification  took 
place  at  St.  Louis  under  the  auspices  of  Governor 
Clark,  between  the  Osages  and  the  Cherokees.   The 
latter  renewed    hostilities  before  they  reached    their 
homes.     This  only  proves,  that  treaties  of  peace  be- 
tween Indian  tribes,  like  those  between  civilized  na- 
tions, only  amount  to  a  momentary  cessation  of  hos- 
tilities, unless  the  limits  of  their  territories,  and  oth- 
er subjects  of  dispute,  are  accurately  defined,  and 
satisfactorily  settled. 

The  numerical  strength  of  the  Sioux  nation  was 
stated  by  the  late  General  Pike  at  21,6/5,  three 
thousand  eight  hundred  of  whom  are  warriors.  This 
is  the  most  powerful  Indian  tribe  in  North  America. 
It  consists  of  seven  bands,  namely,  the  Minokan- 
tongs,  the  Yengetongs,theSissitongs,the  Wahpetongs, 
the  Titongs,  the  Mendewacantongs,  and  the  Wash- 
pecoutongs.  These  are  independent  bands,  under 
their  own  chiefs,  but  united  in  a  confederacy  for  the 
protection  of  their  territories,  and  send  deputies  to 


308 

a  general  council  of  the  chiefs  and  warriors  when- 
ever the  concerns  of  their  nation  require  it.  If  one 
of  the  tribes  is  attacked,  the  others  are  expected 
to  assist  in  the  repulsion  of  the  enemy.  They  in- 
habit all  the  country  between  the  Mississippi  and 
Missouri  rivers,  from  north  latitude  about  46°  to 
the  junction  of  these  rivers  near  St.  Louis,  with  tri- 
fling exceptions  in  favour  of  some  scattered  bands  of 
Foxes,  Sacs,  and  Kickapoos.  Their  country  also 
extends  south  of  the  Missouri,  where  the  principal 
part  of  the  Titongs  reside,  and  east  of  the  Missis- 
sippi to  the  territories  of  the  Chippeways — the  Win- 
nebagoes,  and  the  Menomonies.  The  greatest 
chief  of  the  nation,  at  present,  is  Talangamane,  or 
the  Red  wing. 

The  Minokantongs,  or  people  of  the  waters,  are 
located  at  St.  Peters,  and  along  the  banks  of  the 
Mississippi  towards  Prairie  du  Chien.  They  reside 
in  four  principal  villages,  distinguished  by  the  names 
of  their  respective  chiefs;  Chatawaconamie,  or  La 
Petit  Corbeau — Talangamane,  or  the  Red  wing — 
Tatamane,  or  the  wind-that-walks,  and  Wabashaw. 

The  Yengetongs  and  the  Sissitongs  inhabit  the  up- 
per parts  of  the  river  St.  Peters,  and  are  sometimes 
called  the  Sioux  of  the  Plains.  Their  traffic  is  prin- 
cipally in  Buffalo  robes.  The  first  chief  is  Muck- 
peanutah,  or  the  Red  Cloud.  The  Wahpetongs,  or 
people  of  the  Leaves,  are  the  most  erratic  in  their 
dispositions  of  all  the  Sioux.  They  inhabit  the  St. 
Peters  between  the  Prairie  De  Francois  and  the 
White  Rock,  during  a  part  of  the  year,  and  general- 
ly go  out  to  hunt  above  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony  to- 
wards the  sources  of  the  river  De  Corbeau,  and  up- 
on the  plains  which   give    origin  to  the  Crow,   Sac, 


309 

und  Elk  rivers.    Their  principal  chief  is  Wakunska, 
or  the  Rolling  Thunder. 

The  Titongs  inhabit  both  banks  of  the  Missouri, 
and  rove  in  quest  of  game  over  an  immense  extent 
of  country.  They  are  said  to  be  related  to  the  Ma- 
has,  and  some  other  bands  south  of  the  Missouri. 

The  Mendewacantongs,  or  people  of  the  Medicine 
Lake, — the  Washpecoutongs,  or  people  of  the 
Leaves  who  have  ran  away,  and  some  other  scattered 
bands  whose  names  are  unknown,  inhabit  the  coun- 
try generally,  from  the  St.  Peter's  south  to  the  mouth 
of  the  Missouri,  and  arc  chiefly  located  upon  the 
sources  of  the  rivers  Ocano,  Iowa,  and  Desmoines. 

The  Sioux  are  generally  represented  as  a  brave, 
spirited,  and  generous  people,  with  proud  notions 
of  their  origin  as  a  tribe,  and  their  superiority  as 
hunters  and  warriors,  and  with  a  predominant  pas- 
sion for  war.  They  speak  the  Narcotah  language, 
which  is  peculiar  to  themselves,  and  appears  to  have 
little  affinity  with  any  other  Indian  tongue.  It  is  not 
so  soft  and  sonorous  as  the  Algonquin  which  abounds 
in  labials,  but  more  so,  than  the  Winnebago,  which 
is  the  most  harsh  and  gutteral  language  in  America. 
The  Narcotah  sounds  to  an  English  ear,  like  the 
Chinese,  and  both  in  this,  and  other  respects,  the 
Sioux  are  thought  to  present  many  points  of  coinci- 
dence. It  is  certain  that  their  manners  and  customs 
differ  essentially  from  those  of  any  other  tribe,  and 
their  physiognomy,  as  well  as  their  language,  and 
opinions,  mark  them  as  a  distinct  race  of  people. — 
Their  sacrifices  and  their  supplications  to  the  un- 
known God — their  feasts  after  any  signal  deliver- 
ance from  danger — their  meat,  and  their  burnt  of- 
ferings— the  preparation  of  incense,  and  certain  cits 


toms  of  their  females,  offer  too  striking  a  coinci- 
dence with  the  manners  of  the  Asiatic  tribes  before 
the  commencement  of  the  christian  era,  to  escape 
observation,  while  their  paintings  and  hieroglyphics 
bear  so  much  analogy  to  those  of  the  Azteeks  of  Mex- 
ico, as  to  render  it  probable  that  the  latter  are  of 
Naudowessian  origin.  But  these  hints  are  merely 
thrown  oat  for  the  investigation  of  the  future  enqui- 
rer, as  my  limited  opportunities  of  observation,  and 
the  short  period  of  our  sojournment  among  them, 
forbid  any  thing  like  systematic  research,  which  is 
the  more  to  be  regretted  as  this  tribe  has  recently 
assumed  a  more  interesting  attitude  with  respect  to 
the  United  States,  and  as  the  time  for  conducting 
these  enquiries  with  any  probability  of  success,  is 
rapidly  receding  under  the  pressure  of  an  enter- 
prizing  European  population.  It  is  to  be  hoped 
that  some  spirited  traveller,  possessed  of  the  ne- 
cessary qualifications,  will  select  their  territories  as 
the  theatre  of  his  researches,  and  I  doubt  not,  that  he 
would  find  more  among  them  to  elucidate  the  origin 
and  history  of  the  aborigines  of  our  country,  than 
among  any  other  tribe  upon  the  continent. 

"  From  my  knowledge  of  the  Sioux  nation,"  ob- 
serves Lieutenant  Pike,  "I  do  not  hesitate  to  pro- 
nounce them  the  most  warlike  and  independent  na- 
tion of  Indians  within  the  boundaries  of  the  United 
States,  their  every  passion  being  subservient  to  that 
of  war;  but  at  the  same  time  their  traders  feel  them- 
selves perfectly  secure  of  any  combination  being 
made  against  them,  but  it  is  extremely  necessary  to 
be  careful  not  to  injure  the  honour  of  an  individual, 
which  is  certainly  the  cause  of  the  many  broils  which 
occur  between  them.  But  never  was  a  trader  known 


311 

to  suffer  in  the  estimation  of  the  nation  by  resenting 
any  indignity  offered  him  ;  even  if  he  went  to  taking 
the  life  of  the  offender.  Their  gutteral  pronuncia- 
tion— high  cheek  bones — their  visages,  and  distinct 
manners,  together  with  their  own  traditions,  sup- 
ported by  the  testimony  of  neighbouring  nations, 
put  it  in  my  mind  beyond  the  shadow  of  a  doubt, 
that  they  have  emigrated  from  the  northwest  point 
of  America,  to  which  they  had  come  across  the 
narrow  streights,  which  in  that  quarter,  divide  the 
two  continents ;  and  are  absolutely  descendants  of  a 
Tartarean  tribe."* 

As  an  instance  of  the  generosity  of  this  nation, 
the  following  anecdote  is  related.  La  Petit  Cor- 
beau,  chief  of  a  small  band  of  Sioux,  located  upon 
the  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  towards  the  confines  of 
the  Chippeway  territories,  going  out  one  morning  to 
examine  his  beaver  trap,  found  a  Sauteur  in  the  act 
of  stealing  it.  He  had  approached  without  exciting 
alarm,  and  while  the  Sauteur  was  engaged  in  taking 
the  trap  from  the  water,  he  stood  maturely  survey- 
ing him  with  a  loaded  rifle  in  his  hands.  As  the  two 
nations  were  at  war,  and  the  offence  was  in  itself  one 
of  the  most  heinous  nature,  he  would  have  been  jus- 
tified in  killing  him  upon  the  spot,  and  the  thief  look- 
ed for  nothing  else,  on  finding  himself  detected.  But 
the  Sioux  chief  walking  up  to  him  discovered  a  no- 
bleness of  disposition  which  would  have  done  hon- 
our to  the  most  enlightened  of  men.  "  Take  no 
alarm,  said  he,  at  my  approach;  I  only  come  to  pre- 
sent to  you  the  trap  of  which  I  see  you  stand  in 
need.    You  are  entirely  welcome  to  it.  Take  my  gun 

*  Pike's  Expeditions. 


312 

also,  as  1  perceive  you  have  none  of  your  ovn,  and 
depart  with  it  to  the  land  of  your  countrymen,  but 
linger  not  here,  lest  some  of  my  young  men  who  are 
panting  for  the  blood  of  their  enemies,  should  dis- 
cover your  foot  steps  in  our  country,  and  fall  upon 
you."  So  saying,  he  delivered  him  his  gun  and  ac- 
coutrements, and  returned  unarmed  to  the  village  of 
which  he  is  so  deservedly  the  chief. 

There  are  several  antique  mounds  and  circumvalla- 
tions  upon  the  banks  of  the  St.  Peter's,  which  are  said 
to  indicate  an  industrious  population,  and  an  intimate 
acquaintance  with  geometrical  solids,  which  are 
still  to  be  traced  among  the  full-grown  trees  of  the 
forest  which  now  overshadows  these  enigmatical 
works.  The  most  remarkable  of  these,  are  stated  to 
be  about  forty  miles  above  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Pe- 
ter's, near  the  junction  of  that  branch  which  is  de- 
nominated Carver's  river.  I  regret  that  1  can  say 
nothing  concerning  them  from  actual  inspection. — 
They  are  among  the  number  of  interesting  traits, 
the  examination  and  description  of  which,  would 
so  richly  reward  an  exploration  of  this  important 
river. 

About  six  miles  west  of  the  new  cantonement 
there  are  several  beautiful  little  lakes,  situated  in 
the  prairies.  They  consist  of  the  purest  water  and 
are  surrounded  with  a  handsome  beach  of  yellow 
sand  and  water-worn  pebbles,  among  which  are  to 
be  found  fragments  of  the  most  highly  coloured  car- 
nelians,  and  ribband  agates.  The  largest  of  these 
lakes  is  about  four  miles  in  circumference,  and  is 
called  Calhoun  lake.  It  is  stored  with  the  most  ex- 
quisite flavoured  black  bass  and  several  other  vari- 
eties  of  fish,  and  has  become  a  fashionable  resort 


313 

tor  the  officers  of  the  garrison.  The  intermediate 
country  is  a  prairie,  and  is  travelled  in  all  directions 
on  horseback.  It  is  not,  however,  a  level  plain,  but 
consists  of  gentle  slopes  and  ascents,  and  the  clumps 
of  trees  which  are  scattered  over  it,  give  a  pleasing 
variety  to  the  scene.  In  the  season  of  verdure,  the 
waving  heath-grass, — the  profusion  of  wild  flowers, 
and  the  sweet-scented  Indian  grass,  while  they  fill 
the  air  with  a  refreshing  fragrance,  delight  the  eye 
with  the  richness  and  never-ending  variety  of  their 
colours;  and  viewed  under  the  influence  of  a  gentle 
western  breeze,  which  is  seldom  wanting,  leave  no- 
thing to  complete  the  picture  of  the  most  enchanting 
rural  beauty. 

Among  the  animated  productions  of  nature  which 
serve  to  enliven  and  diversify  the  scene,  there  is  a 
new  species  of  burrowing  squirrel,  something  larger 
than  the  common  striped  ground  squirrel,  with  an 
elongated  body  and  short  legs,  approaching  in  shape 
the  mustela  nivalis,  or  brown  weasel.  But  the  most 
strikingdifference  is  found  in  its  colour,  which  is  a  red- 
dish brown  with  four  longitudinal  black  stripesupon 
the  back,  spotted  with  yellow,  and  resembling  in  this 
respect,  the  skin  of  the  African  leopard.  It  is  a  beau- 
tiful little  animal — burrows  in  the  ground,  and  feeds 
upon  ground  nuts  and  esculent  roots.  It  has  been 
found  destructive  to  the  gardens  at  St.  Peter's. 

The  temperature  of  the  atmosphere,  and  the 
changes  of  weather  during  the  journey  from  Sandy 
lake,  are  indicated  by  the  following—' 

40 


314 


Meteorological  Table. 


1820. 

A    M    |    P.    M 

5|  7|  8|  2|  8|  9 

Mean 
temp 

Winds. 

WEATHER. 

July   25 

1     |71|85|74| 

76 

Fair.     Rain  at  night. 

-      26 

61|     |     |8.|61| 

67 

S.   W. 

Mor. cloudy, with  rain — fcv'n  clear. 

27 

62|     (     |8U|75| 

72 

Fair. 

-     28 

62|     |     |76|61| 

66 

Morn,  fair — afternoon  rain. 

-      29 

50|     |     |74|62| 

62 

Fair.     Flying  clouds. 

-     :30 

IM     |76|     |63 

66 

N    W. 
W. 

Fair. 

-      31 

Aug-.    1 

|65|     |8l|     [69 

72 

-- 

|67|     |83|7,0| 

7:i 

w. 

-- 

1 8)554 1 

69§  mean  temperature. 

CHAPTER  XL 

J  O  U  RJV  E  F, 

FROM  ST.  PETER'S  TO  PRAIRIE  DU  CIIIEN. 


LXXI.  Day.— (August  2d) 

liEAVING  the  mouth  of  the  St.  Peter's  at  nine 
o'clock,  we  proceeded  down  the  Mississippi  thirty- 
eight  miles,  and  encamped  at  twilight  upon  the  west 
shore,  nine  leagues  below  the  village  of  La  Petit 
Corbeau  About  twelve  miles  below  the  new  garri- 
son at  St.  Peter's,  we  stopped  to  examine  a  remarka- 
ble Cavern  on  the  east  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  called 
Wakon-teebe,  by  the  Narcotah  or  Sioux  Indians,  but 
which,  in  compliment  to  the  memory  of  its  first  Eu- 
ropean visitor,  should  be  denominated  Carver's 
cave.  It  is  situated  in  a  rock  of  the  most  beautiful 
white  sand  stone,  at  the  head  of  a  small  valley  about 
four  hundred  yards  from  the  banks  of  the  river.  Its 
mouth  is  about  sixty  or  seventy  feet  wide  and  twen- 
ty in  height,  but  the  former  soon  decreases  to  about 
twenty  feet,  and  the  latter  to  seven.  This  width 
gradually  lessens  as  you  advance  during  the  first 
hundred  yards,  but  the  height  remains  nearly  the 
aame,  so  that  a  man  can  walk  without  stooping.— 
Then  it  tapers  into  a  narrow  passage,  where  it  is 


316 

necessary  to  creep,  which  suddenly  opens  into  a 
spacious  chamber.      From  this  a   narrow  crevice 
continues  as  far  as  it  has  been  explored.     Some  of 
our  party  pursued  it  four  hundred  yards  by  the  light 
of  wax  candles.     It  is  very  damp  and  chilly.  There 
is  a  handsome  stream  of  pure  water  running  from  its 
mouth.     The  temperature  of  the  air  in  the  cave  was 
54? — that  of  the  water  47°.     As  it  is  situated  in  sand 
stone  rock,  it  affords  no  stalactites,  or  spars.    Some 
parts  of  the  rock  at   the  mouth  are  coloured  green, 
probably  by  the  carbonat  of  copper.      The   bed  of 
the  brook  is  composed  of  a  crystalline  sand  of  the 
most   snowy  whiteness,  originating  from  the  disin- 
tegration of  the  surrounding  walls.      Scattered  over 
this,  are  a  number  of  small  pebbles  of  so  intensely 
black  a  colour   as   to   create  a  pleasing  contrast, 
when  viewed  through  the  medium  of  a  clear  stream. 
These,  on  examination,  proved  to  be  masses  of  lime 
stone,  granite,  and  quartz,  coloured  externally  by  a 
thin  deposit  of  earthy  matter,  and  I  conclude  the 
colour  to  proceed   from  the  gallic  acid,  with  which 
the  water,  percolating  into  the  cavern,  through  the 
beds  of  oak  leaves  of  the  superincumbent   forest, 
may  be  partially  saturated.      This  cave  has  been 
visited  by  most  persons  who  have  passed  up  the  Mis- 
sissippi, if  we  may  judge  from  the  number  of  names 
found  upon  the  walls.    Among  them  we  were  inform- 
ed was  that  of  Captain  Carver,  who  visited  it  in  1 768r 
but  we  did  not  observe  it.     His  grant  of  land  from 
the  Indians,  is  dated  in  this  cave,  but  the  cave  it- 
self, appears  to  have  undergone  a  considerable  al- 
teration since  that  period,  for  he  says  that  "  about 
twenty  feet  from  the  entrance  begins  a  lake,  the  wa- 
ter of  which  is  transparent,  and  extends  to  an  un- 


317 

searchable  distance."  As  the  rock  is  of  a  very  fria- 
ble nature,  and  easily  acted  upon  by  running  wa- 
ter, it  is  probable  that  the  lake  has  been  discharg- 
ed, thus  enlarging  the  boundaries  of  the  cave.  He 
also  remarks,  "At  a  little  distance  from  this  dreary 
cavern,  is  the  burying  place  of  several  bands  of  the 
Nawdowessie  (Sioux)  Indians.  Though  these  peo- 
ple have  no  fixed  residence,  living  in  tents,  and  abi- 
ding but  a  few  months  in  one  spot,  yet  they  always 
bring  the  bones  of  their  dead  to  this  place ;  which 
they  take  the  opportunity  of  doing  when  the  chiefs 
meet  to  hold  their  councils,  and  to  settle  the  public 
affairs  for  the  ensuing  summer."  We  noticed  no  bones 
or  traces  of  interment  about  the  cave,  but  perhaps 
a  further  examination  of  the  adjacent  region  would 
have  led  to  a  discovery. 

Four  miles  below  Carver's  cave,  we  landed  at 
the  village  of  La  Petit  Corbeau,  or  the  Little  Raven. 
Here  is  a  Sioux  band  of  twelve  lodges,  and  consist- 
ing of  about  two  hundred  souls,  who  plant  corn  up- 
on the  adjoining  plain,  and  cultivate  the  cucumber, 
and  pumpkin.  They  sallied  from  their  lodges  on 
seeing  us  approach,  and  gathering  upon  the  bank  of 
the  river  fired  a  kind  offeu-de-joie,  and  manifested  the 
utmost  satisfaction  on  our  landing.  La  Petit  Cor- 
beau was  among  the  first  to  greet  us.  He  is  a  man 
below  the  common  size,  but  brawny  and  well  pro- 
portioned, and  although  rising  of  fifty  years  of  age, 
retains  the  looks  and  vigour  of  forty.  There  is  a 
great  deal  of  fire  in  his  eyes  which  are  black  and 
piercing — his  nose  is  prominent  and  has  the  aquiline 
curve,  his  forehead  falling  a  little  from  the  facial  an- 
gle, and  his  whole  countenance  animated,  and  ex- 
pressive of  a  shrewd  mind.      We  were  conducted 


318 

into  his  cabin  which  is  spacious,  being  about  sixty 
feet  in  length  by  thirty  in  width— built  in  a  perma- 
nent manner  of  logs,  and  covered  with  bark.  Be- 
ing seated,  he  addressed  Governor  Cass  in  a  speech 
of  some  length,  in  which  he  expressed  his  satisfac- 
tion on  seeing  him  there,  and  said  that  in  his  exten- 
sive journey  he  must  have  experienced  a  good  ma- 
ny hardships  and  difficulties,  and  seen  a  great  deal 
of  the  Indian  way  of  living,  and  of  the  country — all 
of  which  would  enable  him  to  see  things  in  their 
proper  light.  He  said  he  was  glad  that  the  Govern- 
or had  not,  like  many  other  officers  and  agents  of  the 
United  Slates  who  had  lately  visited  those  regions, 
passed  by  his  village  without  calling.  He  particularly 
alluded  to  the  officers  of  the  establishment  at  St.  Pe- 
ter's, and  said  they  had  generally  passed  upon  the  oth- 
er side  of  the  river.  He  observed  that  he  had  attend- 
ed several  councils  at  St.  Peter's,  and  given  away  a 
number  of  pipes,  but  got  nothing  in  return.  He  ac- 
quiesced in  the  treaty  which  had  lately  been  conclu- 
ded with  the  Chippeways,  and  was  happy  that 
a  stop  had  been  put  to  the  effusion  of  human  blood. 
He  then  adverted  to  a  recent  attack  of  a  party  of 
Fox  Indians  upon  some  of  their  people  towards  the 
sources  of  the  river  St.  Peters,  in  which  nine  men 
had  been  killed.  He  considered  it  a  dastardly  act, 
and  said  if  that  little  tribe,  should  continue  to  haunt 
their  territories  in  a  hostile  manner,  they  would  at 
length  drive  him  into  anger,  and  compel  him  to  do  a 
thing  he  did  not  wish.  These  were  the  principal 
topics  of  his  speech  ;  some  minor  points  were  ad- 
verted to,  and  he  several  times  repeated  his  obliga- 
tions for  the  honour  of  our  visit.  He  spoke  with  de- 
liberation, and  without  that  wild  gesticulation  which 


319 

is  common  among  savages.  Two  or  three  other 
persons  afterwards  spoke,  but  I  was  not  struck  with 
any  expressions  of  much  point  They  repeated 
several  things  that  had  before  been  said,  and  deliv- 
ered pacific  sentiments  in  the  most  furious  manner. 

While  these  things  were  going  forward,  the  Indian 
xvomen  were  busily  engaged  in  gathering  green  corn, 
and  each  one  came  into  the  centre  of  the  chief's 
cabin  and  threw  a  basket  full  upon  a  common  pile, 
which  made  a  formidable  appearance  before  the 
speakers  ceased,  and  it  was  absolutely  necessary  to 
forbid  their  bringing  more.  This  was  intended  as 
a  present,  and  we  took  away  as  much  as  we  could 
conveniently  find  storage  for,  in  our  canoes. 

Our  attention  was  now  drawn  off  by  the  sounds  of 
Indian  music  which  proceeded  from  another  large 
cabin  at  no  great  distance,  but  we  found  the  doors 
closed,  and  were  informed  that  they  were  celebrating 
an  annual  feast,  at  which  only  certain  persons  in  the 
village  were  allowed  to  be  present,  and  that  it  was 
not  customary  ever  to  admit  strangers.  Our  curios- 
ity, however,  being  excited,  we  applied  to  Govern- 
or Cass  to  intercede  for  us,  and  were  by  that  means 
admitted.  The  first  striking  object  presented  was 
two  large  kettles  full  of  green  corn,  cut  from  the  cob 
and  boiled.  They  hung  over  a  moderate  fire  in  the 
centre  of  the  cabin,  and  the  Indians,  both  men  and 
women,  were  seated  in  a  large  circle  around  them. 
They  were  singing  a  doleful  song  in  the  savage  man- 
ner, accompanied  by  the  Indian  drum,  and  gourd- 
rattle.  The  utmost  solemnity  was  depicted  upon 
every  Countenance  not  engaged  in  singing,  and 
when  the  music  ceased,  which  it  frequently  did  for 
a  few  seconds,  there  was  a  still  and  mysterious  pause, 


320 

during  which  certain  pantomimic  signs  were  made, 
and  it  appeared  as  if  they  pretended  to  hold  commu- 
nication with  invisible  spirits.  Suddenly  the  music 
struck  up,  and  the  singing  commenced,  but  as  we 
did  not  understand  their  language,  it  is  impossible 
to  say  what  they  uttered,  or  to  whom  their  supplica- 
tions or  responses  were  addressed.  In  the  course 
of  these  ceremonies  a  young  man  and  his  sister,  join- 
ing hands,  came  forward  towards  the  centre  of  the 
cabin.  We  were  told  they  were  about  to  be  admit- 
ted to  the  rights  of  partaking  of  the  feast,  but  there 
was  nothing  striking  in  the  ceremony,  and  all  its  in- 
terest was  lost  to  us,  because  we  could  not  under- 
stand the  questions  which  were  asked  and  the  an- 
swers given.  The  voice  of  every  one  appeared  to 
be  taken  in  their  admission,  which  was  unanimous. 
When  this  ceremony  ceased,  one  of  the  elder  In- 
dians, dished  out  all  the  boiled  corn  into  separate 
dishes  for  as  many  heads  of  families  as  there  were 
present,  putting  an  equal  number  of  ladles  full  into 
each  dish.  Then,  while  the  music  continued,  they, 
one  by  one,  took  up  their  dishes  and  retiring  from  the 
cabin  by  a  backward  step,  so  that  they  still  faced 
the  kettles,  separated  to  their  respective  lodges,  and 
thus  the  ceremony  ceased.  We  are  told,  however, 
that  several  important  things  were  omitted  on  ac- 
count of  our  being  present.  From  all  that  could  be 
learned,  it  was  a  feast  in  honour  of  the  Cereal  god- 
dess, or  manito,  of  the  Indians,  which  is  annually  held 
when  the  corn  first  becomes  suitable  for  boiling  in 
the  ear. 

LXXII.  Day. — {August  3d.) — We  embarked  at  five 
o'clock.      On  descending  the  river  six  miles,  we 


321 

passed  the  mouth  of  the  river  St.  Croix,  which  en- 
ters on  the  east  shore  by  a  channel  of  one  hundred 
yards  in  width.  It  is  connected  by  a  portage  of  two 
pauses,  with  the  Bois  Brule  river  of  Lake  Superior, 
and  in  its  whole  extent  is  not  interrupted  by  a  sin- 
gle fall  or  rapid.  It  is  said  to  be  the  most  practica- 
ble, easy,  and  expeditious  water  communication 
between  the  Mississippi  river  and  Lake  Superior. — 
About  five  hundred  yards  above  its  mouth,  it  ex- 
pands into  a  lake,  called  Lake  St.  Croix,  which  is 
thirty-six  miles  long,  and  from  one  and  a  half  to 
three  in  breadth.  Sixty  miles  above  the  head  of 
this  lake,  the  southwest  company  have  an  establish- 
ment. The  country  around  its  mouth  is  claimed  by 
the  Sioux;  its  sources  are  inhabited  by  a  band  of 
Foille  avoine  Chippeways,  and  the  Chippeways  of 
the  Burnt  woods.  There  is  an  island  in  the  Mis- 
sissippi opposite  its  junction.  At  this  place,  the  river 
bluffs  assume  an  increased  height,  and  more  impo- 
sing aspect,  and  in  the  course  of  the  succeeding 
fifty  miles,  we  are  presented  with  some  of  the  most 
majestic  and  pleasing  scenery  which  adorns  the 
banks  of  the  upper  Mississippi.  In  many  places 
the  calcareous  blutfs  terminate  in  pyramids  of  na- 
ked rocks,  which  resemble  the  crumbling  ruins  of 
antique  towers,  and  aspire  to  such  a  giddy  height 
above  the  level  of  the  water,  that  the  scattered  oaks 
which  cling  around  their  rugged  summits  seem 
dwindled  to  the  most  diminutive  size; — at  others, 
the  river  is  contracted  between  two  perpendicular 
walls  of  opposing  rock,  which  appear  to  have  been 
sundered  to  allow  it  an  undisturbed  passage  to  the 
ocean,  and  not  unfrequently,  these  walls  are  half 

41 


322 

buried    in    their  own  ruins,  and   present  a  striking 
example  oi'  the  wasting  etfects  of  time  upon  the  cal- 
careous strata  of  our  planet.     Sometimes,  there  is  a 
rock  bluff  on  one  bank,  and  an  extensive  plain  of  al- 
luvion on  the  other,  contrasting  with  the  finest  effect, 
the  barrenness  of  the   mineral,  with  the  luxuriant 
herbage,  and    the    rural   beauty,   of  the    vegetable 
kingdom.     Again,  the  hills  recede  from  either  shore, 
and  arc  veiled  in  the  azure  tint  of  the  distant  land- 
scape, while  the   river  assumes  an  amazing  width, 
and  is  beautified  with  innumerable  islands,  and  we 
find  ourselves  at  once  bewildered  between  the  infin- 
ity of  its  channels,  and  the  attractive  imagery  of  its 
banks.     Nor   is   the  presence  of  animated   nature 
wanting,  to   enrich  and   beautify  the  scene.      The 
deer  is  frequently  seen  standing  in  the  cool  currenl 
of  the  stream,  gathering  the  moss   from   the  hidden 
rocks   below,  or   surveying  our  approach  from  the 
grassy  summit  of  the   impending  clitF,   with   an  un- 
concern,   which  tells  us  how  little  it  is  acquainted 
with  the  sight  of  man.     The  whole  tribe  of  water- 
fowl ape  found  upon  the  river,  ai*l  by  the  variety  of 
their  plumage,   and   their  shapes — the  wildness  of 
their   notes — and  the  Happing  of  their  wings,  serve 
to  diversify  the  scene,  while  the  well  known  notes  of 
the  robin,  and  other  singing  birds  upon  the  shores, 
which  are  the  same  that  we  have  listened  to  in  child- 
hood, recall  a  train  of  the  most  pleasing  reflections, 
Nor  is  the  red  man,  the  lord  of  the  forest,   wanting. 
His  cottage  is  disclosed  by  the  curling  smoke  upon 
the  distant  hills,  where  he  surveys  with  a  satisfied  eye 
the   varied  creation  upon   the    plains   below; — the 
deer — the    elk — the  water  fowl — the   river  which 
floats  his  canoe — the   trees   which  overshadow  the 


323 

grassy  hills  upon  which  he  reposes  during  the  heats 
of  noon — the  thickets,  where  he  arouses  the  sleep- 
ing bear — the  prairie,  which  gives  vigour  to  his  con- 
stitution, and  while  he  lifts  his  eye  in  gratitude  to 
the  great  spirit  of  life,  for  all  these  various  bles- 
sings, exclaims  with  the  genuine  poet  of  nature 

"  Creation's  heir — the  world — the  world  is  mine.,, 

At  twelve  o'clock  we  arrived  at  the  Sioux  village 
of  Taiangamane,  or  the  Red  wing,  which  is  hand- 
somely situated  on  the  west  banks  of  the  river,  six 
miles  above  Lake  Pepin.  It  consists  of  four  large, 
and  several  small  lodges,  built  of  logs  in  the  man- 
ner of  the  little  Raven's  village.  Taiangamane  is 
now  considered  the  first  chief  of  his  nation,  which 
honour  it  is  said  he  enjoys  both  on  account  of  his 
superior  age  and  sagacity.  He  appears  to  be  about 
sixty,  and  bears  all  the  marks  of  that  age.  Very 
few  of  his  people  were  at  home,  being  engaged  in 
hunting  or  fishing.  We  observed  several  fine  corn 
fields  near  the  village,  but  they  subsist  chiefly  by 
taking  sturgeon  in  the  neighbouring  lake,  and  by 
hunting  the  deer.  The  buffalo  is  also  occasionally 
killed,  but  they  are  obliged  to  go  two  days  journey 
west  of  the  Mississippi,  before  this  animal  is  found 
in  plenty.  We  observed  several  buffalo  skins  which 
were  undergoing  the  Indian  process  of  tanning. — 
The  hair  having  been  taken  off  in  the  manner  of 
dressing  deer  skins,  the  hides  were  stretched  out 
upon  the  ground  and  covered  with  a  decoction  of 
oak  and  other  bark,  prepared  by  boiling  the  bits  of 
bark  in  water.  A  black  colour  was  thus  communi- 
cated to  the  skin,  and  it  is  probable  that  sufficient 


324 

of  the  astringent  principle  of  the  bark  is  thus  made 
to  unite  with  the  gluten  of  the  skin,  to  give  it,  in  some 
degree,  the  properties  of  leather.  The  idea  is 
probably  borrowed  from  their  intercourse  with  the 
frontier  settlers,  although  the  nearest  tan-yard  is 
at  St.  Louis,  eight  hundred  miles  below. 

Haifa  mile  east  of  Red  wing's  village  there  is  an 
isolated  mountain,  standing  upon  the  brink  of  the 
river,  called  the  Grange,  from  the  summit  of  which 
you  enjoy  the  most  charming  prospect.  The  im- 
mense valley  of  the  Mississippi,  with  the  numerous 
channels  and  islands  of  the  river — the  prairies  and 
forests — with  the  windings  of  a  number  of  small 
rivers  which  flow  into  the  Mississippi,  spread 
like  a  map  below  the  eye.  The  calcareous 
bluffs  which  bound  this  valley,  and  terminate 
the  prospect  towards  the  west,  in  a  line  of  lofty 
grey  cliffs,  throw  an  air  of  grandeur  upon  the  scene, 
which  affords  a  pleasing  contrast  with  the  deep  green 
of  the  level  prairies,  and  the  silvery  brightness  of 
the  winding  river.  Turning  the  eye  towards  the 
east,  Lake  Pepin  spreads  its  ample  sheet  across  the 
entire  valley  of  the  river,  from  bluff  to  bluff,  and 
the  indentures  of  its  shores  recede  one  behind  an- 
other, until  they  become  too  faint  to  be  distinguish- 
ed, and  are  terminated  on  the  line  of  the  horizon. 
The  altitude  of  this  mountain  cannot  fall  short  of 
eight  hundred  (cet  above  the  bed  of  the  river.  It 
presents  an  abrupt  mural  precipice  towards  the  Mis- 
sissippi, but  slopes  off  gradually  towards  the  south, 
and  is  covered  with  grass,  and  afewscatteringoaks. 
Its  sides  are  strewed  with  beautiful  crystals  of  vio- 
let coloured,  and  radiated  quartz,  and  with 
masses  of  iron  ore  crystallized  in  cubes  and  octa- 


326 

faedrons.  A  specimen  of  lead  ore  (galena)  was  also 
shewn  to  us  by  one  of  Talangamane's  people,  and 
a  mine  is  reported  to  exist  in  the  vicinity,  but  we 
could  procure  no  information  which  is  to  be  relied 
upon,  concerning  its  situation  and  extent. 

In  ascending  this  mountain  we  first  noticed  the 
rattlesnake,  (crotahis  horridus)  which  is  found,  how- 
ever, as  far  north  as  the  falls  of  St.  Anthony,  (north 
latitude  45°.)  One  of  the  most  remarkable  facts  in 
the  natural  history  of  this  dreadful  animal,  is,  that 
its  poison  may  be  taken  internally  without  any  dan- 
ger. A  spoonful,  it  is  affirmed,  may  be  swallowed 
at  a  time,  without  producing  any  ill  effects  upon 
the  constitution.  This,  is  the  characteristic  differ- 
ence between  animal  and  vegetable  poisons.  It  is 
well  known  that  the  virus  of  this  animal  is  secreted 
in  a  small  cavity  at  the  root  of  the  fangs,  which  are 
shaped  like  the  claws  of  a  cat,  and  are  hollow,  and 
that  it  is  ejected  through  these  tubes  at  the  instant 
it  inflicts  the  wound.  It  has  been  stated,  on  the 
authority  of  Mr.  Peale,  proprietor  of  the  Philadel- 
phia museum,  that  an  animal  punctured  with  the 
fangs  of  the  rattlesnake,  for  years  after  they  have 
been  taken  out  and  dried,  will  produce  almost  instant 
death,  and  that  he  employed  acids  and  alkalies  to 
deprive  them  of  this  poisonous  property,  without 
success.  The  poison  of  serpents  is  found  to  be 
more  virulent,  and  to  operate  with  greater  activity,  in 
warm,  than  in  cold  climates,  nor  is  it  equally  fatal 
to  all  animals.  The  hog,  for  instance,  devours  the 
rattlesnake  without  danger,  and  is  even  said  to 
thrive  and"  fatten  upon  it.  Charlevoix  mentions  a 
plant,  .which  is  an  antidote  to  the  bite  of  this 
snak^,  called  the  rattle  snake  plant  (herbe  a  serpente 


326 

a  sonettes)  which  grows  abundantly  throughout  this 
country.  "  This  plant,"  he  remarks,  "  is  beautiful 
and  easily  known.  Its  stem  is  round  and  somewhat 
thicker  than  a  goose-quill,  rising  to  the  height  of 
three  or  four  feet,  and  terminates  in  a  yellow  flower 
of  the  figure  and  size  of  a  yellow  daisey.  This 
flower  has  a  very  sweet  scent.  The  leaves  of  the 
plant  are  oval,  narrow,  sustained,  five  and  five,  in 
form  of  a  turkey  cock's  foot,  by  a  peduncle  or  foot 
stalk  an  inch  long."  In  another  place,  speaking  of 
the  citron,  he  remarks  "  The  root  of  this  tree  is  a 
mortal  and  most  subtil  poison,  and  at  the  same 
time  a  most  sovereign  antidote  against  the  bite  of 
serpents.  It  must  be  bruised  and  applied  instantly 
on  the  wound  :  this  remedy  is  immediate  and  infalli- 
ble." The  plant  alluded  to  in  both  instances,  ap- 
pears to  be  the  common  mandrake,  or  podophyllum 
peltatum  of  modern  botany.  The  poisonous  pro- 
perties of  this  plant  are  mentioned  by  another  of 
\ he  elder  travellers  of  the  region,  whose  work  hag 
long  since  ceased  to  be  quoted,  the  Baron  La  Hon- 
tan,  who  says  that  the  expressed  juice  of  this  plant 
taken  internally,  produces  instant  death;  and  re- 
lates an  instance  of  an  Iroquois  woman,  making  use 
of  it  on  the  disease  of  her  husband.  She  soon  fell 
into  shivering  fits,  and  expired  in  his  presence. 

In  our  times  the  common  plantain  {plantago  ma- 
jor) has  been  frequently  mentioned  as  an  infallible 
cure,  both  for  the  bite  of  the  rattlesnake,  and  the 
tarantula,  or  great  black  field  spider;  but  I  cannot 
allude  to  any  particular  cases  in  which  it  has  been 
successfully  applied.  There  is  an  old  story,  which 
relates  that  the  curative  qualities  of  the  plantain,  in 
cases  of  animal  poison,  was  first  discovered  in  the. 


327 

following  manner :  An  aged  black  man  in  one  of  the 
southern  states,  being  out  in  the  field,  happened  to 
witness  a  combat  between  the  tarantula  and  a  toad: 
the  latter  appeared  frequently  to  be  vanquished,  but 
as  often  retreated  to  a  stem  of  plantain*  growing 
near,  and  eating  some  of  the  leaves,  returned  to 
the  combat.  Observing  this,  the  plantain  was  pul- 
led up,  when  the  toad  on  returning,  and  finding  it 
taken  away,  immediately  swelled  up  and  died.  This 
gave  the  hint  for  applying  it  in  cases  of  the  bite  of 
venomous  snakes,  and  the  discoverer  alluded  to,  ac- 
quired celebrity  for  the  cures  he  effected  by  the  use 
of  it.  Whether  the  Virginia  snake-root,  (aristolochia 
serpentaria)  is  applied  as  an  antidote  to  the  poison 
of  serpents,  I  am  unable  to  say.  Ergotted  rye,  is 
also  among  the  number  of  simples,  which  have  been 
lately  recommended  in  cases  of  the  bite  of  the  rat- 
tlesnake. 

At  one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  we  entered  Lake 
Pepin.  This  beautiful  sheet  of  water  is  an  expan- 
sion of  the  Mississippi  river,  six  miles  below  the 
Sioux  village  of  Talangamane,  and  one  hundred  be- 
low the  falls  of  St.  Anthony.  It  is  twenty-four  miles 
in  length,  with  a  width  of  from  two  to  four  miles,  and 
is  indented  with  several  bays,  and  prominent  points, 
which  serve  to  enhance  the  beauty  of  the  prospect. 
On  the  east  shore,  there  is  a  lofty  range  of  limestone 
bluffs,  which  are  much  broken  and  crumbled — some- 
times run  into  pyramidal  peaks — and  often  present 
a  character  of  the  utmost  sublimity.  On  the  west, 
there  is  a  high  level  prairie,  covered  with  the  most 
luxuriant  growth  of  grass,  and  nearly  destitute  of 
forest  trees.  From  this  plain  several  conical  hills 
ascend,  which,  at  a  distance,  present  the  appear- 


323 

ance  of  vast  artificial  mounds  or  pyramids,  and  it  is 
difficult  to  reconcile  their  appearance  with  the  gen- 
eral order  of  nature,  by  any  other  hypothesis.  This 
lake  is  beautifully  circumscribed  by  a  broad  beach 
of  clean  washed  gravel,  which  often  extends  from  the 
foot  of  the  surrounding  highlands,  three  or  four  hun- 
dred yards  into  the  lake,  forming  gravelly  points 
upon  which  there  is  a  delightful  walk,  and  scalloping 
out  the  margin  of  the  lake,  with  the  most  pleasing 
irregularity.  In  walking  along  these,  the  eye  is  at- 
tracted by  the  various  colours  of  the  mineral  gems, 
which  are  promiscuously  scattered  among  the  wa- 
ter-worn debris  of  granitic,  and  other  rocks,  and  the 
carnelian,  agate,  and  chalcedony,  are  met  with  at 
every  step.  The  size  of  these  gems  is  often  as  large 
as  the  egg  of  the  partridge,  and  the  transparency, 
and  beauty  of  colour,  is  only  excelled  by  the  choi- 
cest oriental  specimens.  There  is  no  perceptible 
current  in  the  lake,  during  calm  weather,  and  the 
water  partakes  so  little  of  the  turbid  character  of 
the  lower  Mississippi,  that  objects  can  be  distinctly 
seen  through  it,  at  the  depth  of  eight  or  ten  feet. — 
It  is  plentifully  stored  with  a  variety  of  fish,  the 
most  remarkable  of  which  is  the  shovel-nosed  stur- 
geon, which  is  so  called  from  a  protuberance 
which  extends  from  the  end  of  the  nose  about  four- 
teen inches — is  four  in  width,  and  quite  thin,  in 
which  respect,  as  well  as  in  the  shape  of  this  pro- 
cess, it  bears  a  striking  resemblance  to  a  physi- 
cian's spatula.  In  other  respects  its  size  and  gene- 
ral appearance  corresponds  with  the  small  sturgeon 
of  lakes  Huron  and  Superior.  This  extension  of 
the  nose,  appears  designed  to  enable  the  animal  to 
agitato  the  mud  along  the   shores,  and  on  the  bot- 


329 

torn  of  the  Mississippi,  in  quest  of  certain  aniraalcu- 
la,  which  are  supposed  to  be  its  favourite  food.  The 
shores  of  this  lake,  also,  appear  favourable  to  the 
growth  of  crustaceous  fish,  and  an  examination  of 
the  different  varieties  which  are  presented,  would 
probably  result  in  the  discovery  of  one  or  two  new 
species.  In  no  place  have  I  ever  noticed  the  fresh 
water  muscle,  attain  so  large  a  size.  One  of  these, 
which  I  procured,  measures  seven  inches  in  length, 
by  five  and  a  half  in  width,  and  the  thickness,  tak- 
en at  right  angles  with  the  most  convex  part  of  the 
shell,  is  a   little  less  than  four  inches. 

Lake  Pepin  receives  two  of  the  tributary  streams 
of  the  Mississippi,  called  the  river  au  Canoe,  and 
Porcupine-quill  river.  The  former  has,  by  a  gene- 
ral mistake,  (which  I  did  not  myself  detect  until  my 
map  was  engraved)  been  called  Cannon  river; 
and  I  have  elsewhere  spoken  of  it,  under  the  name 
of  Ocano,  being  the  popular  pronunciation  of  the 
French  term.  It  flows  into  Lake  Pepin  from  the 
west,  near  its  head;  and  is  one  of  the  principal 
hunting  grounds  of  the  Red  wing's  band.  Porcu- 
pine-quill river,  enters  in  a  large  bend  on  the  east 
shore,  about  midway  of  the  length  of  the  lake,  and 
is  noted  as  the  ancient  site  of  a  French  fort  and 
trading  factory.  We  did  not  stop  to  examine  the 
remains- of  this  establishment,  which  it  is  said,  are 
still  visible. 

In  passing  through  Lake  Pepin,  our  interpreter 
pointed  out  to  us  a  high  precipice,  on  the  east  shore 
of  the  lake,  from  which  an  Indian  girl,  of  the  Sioux 
nation,  had  many  years  ago,  precipitated  herself  in 
a  fit  of  disappointed  love.    She  had  given  her  heart* 

42 


330 

it  appears,  to  a  young  chief  of  her  own  tribe,  who 
was  very  much  attached  to  her,  but  the  alliance 
was  opposed  by  her  parents,  who  wished  her  to 
marry  an  old  chief,  renowned  for  his  wisdom  and 
his  influence  in  the  nation.  As  the  union  was  in- 
sisted upon,  and  no  other  way  appearing  to  avoid  it, 
she  determined  to  sacrifice  her  life  in  preference  to 
a  violation  of  a  former  vow,  and  while  the  prepara- 
tions for  the  marriage  feast  were  going  forward,  left 
her  father's  cabin,  without  exciting  suspicion,  and 
before  she  could  be  overtaken,  threw  herself  from 
an  awful  precipice,  and  was  instantly  dashed  to  a 
thousand  pieces.  Such  an  instance  of  sentiment  is 
rarely  to  be  met  with  among  barbarians,  and  should 
redeem  the  name  of  this  noble-minded  girl  from  ob- 
livion.    It  was  Oola-lta.   (Oo-la-i-ta  ) 

Having  descended  the  river  sixty-seven  miles,  we 
encamped  on  a  gravelly  beach  on  the  east  shore  of 
Lake  Pepin,  at  six  o'clock  in  the  evening,  the  wea- 
ther threatening  a  storm.  In  the  vicinity  of  our 
encampment,  we  observed  the  asparagus  growing 
along  the  shore.  The  seeds  had  probably  been  drop- 
ped by  some  former  traveller.  At  eight  o'clock,  it 
commenced  raining,  and  continued,  at  short  inter- 
vals, during  a  great  part  of  the  night,  attended  with 
severe  thunder,  and  the  most  vivid  flashes  of  light- 
ning. 

• 

LXXIII.  Day. — (August  4th.) — We  proceeded  on 
our  descent  at  five  o'clock.  The  rain  had  ceased 
before  day  light,  but  the  morning  remained  cloudy,  j 
The  lake  is  two  miles  and  a  half  wide,  opposite  the 
spot  of  our  encampment,  but  narrows  gradually  to- 
wards its  outlet,  which  is  ten  miles  below.     The 


331 

scenery  during  this  distance  is  highly  picturesque 
and  beautiful.  The  precipices  on  the  east  are  high, 
and  shoot  up  into  spiral  points,  yet  are  covered  par- 
tially with  grass  and  shrubbery.  On  the  west  we 
observe  nothing  but  an  elevated  level  prairie.  The 
contrast  produces  the  finest  effect.  At  the  precise 
point  of  exit  of  the  Mississippi  river,  from  Lake 
Pepin,  the  Chippeway,  or  Sauteaux  river,  comes  in 
from  the  east.  It  is  half  a  mile  wide  at  its  mouth, 
and  its  sources  are  connected  with  the  Montreal 
river  of  Lake  Superior.  Below  the  junction  of  this 
stream,  the  Mississippi  has  an  increased  width,  and 
contains  a  great  number  of  small  willow  and  cotton- 
wood  islands,  and  the  navigation  is  rendered  more 
difficult,  on  account  of  the  innumerable  sand  bars 
which  here  first  make  their  appearance.  They  are 
attributable,  in  a  great  measure,  to  the  immense 
quantity  of  sand  brought  down  by  the  Chippeway 
river. 

A  few  miles  below  Lake  Pepin  on  the  west  bank 
of  the  Mississippi,  are  the  remains  of  one  of  the 
most  interesting  and  extensive  of  those  ancient  cir- 
cumvallations,  which  are  so  frequently  found  through- 
out the  valley  of  the  Mississippi,  and  its  confluent 
streams,  and  whose  origin,  notwithstanding  the  lapse 
of  half  a  century  since  they  first  began  to  attract 
the  notice  of  philosophic  enquirers,  still  remains 
veiled  in  the  impenetrable  mist  of  obscurity.  The 
work  in  question  was  in  fact  one  of  the  earliest  that 
excited  notice,  but  the  hints  which  were  thrown  out 
by  Carver  in  1768,  with  respect  to  this  work,  ap- 
pear to  have  escaped  the  attention  of  succeeding 
travellers  and  enquirers,  and  as  yet  no  plan  of  it» 
has  been  taken.    As  our  opportunities  did  not  allow 


332 

us  to  supply  this  deficiency,  by  actual  observation, 
I  shall  here  present  the  remarks  of  the  enterprising 
traveller  alluded  to,  in  order  to  excite  the  attention 
of  those  who  may  hereafter  visit  the  region. 

"  One  day  having  landed  on  the  shore  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, some  miles  below  Lake  Pepin,  whilst  my 
attendants  were  preparing  my  dinner,  I  walked  out 
to  take  a  view  of  the  adjacent  country.  I  had  not 
proceeded  far  before  I  came  to  a  fine,  level,  open 
plain,  on  which  I  perceived,  at  a  little  distance,  a 
partial  elevation  that  had  the  appearance  of  an  in- 
trenchment.  On  a  nearer  inspection,  1  had  greater 
reason  to  suppose  that  it  had  really  been  intended 
for  this  many  centuries  ago.  Notwithstanding  it  was 
now  covered  with  grass,  I  could  plainly  discern  that 
it  had  once  been  a  breast-work  of  about  four  feet  in 
height,  extending  the  best  part  of  a  mile,  and  suffi- 
ciently capacious  to  cover  five  thousand  men.  Its 
form  was  somewhat  circular,  and  its  flanks  reached 
to  the  river.  Though  much  defaced  by  time,  every 
angle  was  still  distinguishable,  and  appeared  as  re- 
gular, and  fashioned  with  as  much  military  skill,  as 
if  planned  by  Vauban  himself  The  ditch  was  not 
visible,  but  I  thought  on  examining  more  curiously, 
that  I  could  perceive  there  certainly  had  been  one. 
From  its  situation  also,  I  am  convinced  that  it  must 
have  been  designed  for  this  purpose.  It  fronted  the 
country  (the  west)  and  the  rear  was  covered  by  the 
river ;  nor  was  there  any  rising  ground  for  a  consid- 
erable distance  that  commanded  it ;  a  few  straggling 
oaks  were  alone  to  be  seen  near  it.  In  many  places 
small  tracks  (paths)  were  worn  across  it  by  the  feet 
of  the  elks  and  deer,  and  from  the  depth  of  the  bed 
of  the  earth  by  which  it  was  covered,  I  was  able  to 


333 

draw  certain  conclusions  of  its  great  antiquity.  I 
examined  all  the  angles  and  every  part  with  great 
attention,  and  have  often  blamed  myself  since,  for 
not  encamping  on  the  spot,  and  drawing  an  exact 
plan  of  it.  To  shew  that  this  description  is  not  the 
offspring  of  a  heated  imagination,  or  the  chimerical 
tale  of  a  mistaken  traveller.  1  find,  on  enquiry  since 
my  return,  that  Monsieur  St.  Pierre  and  several  oth- 
er traders  have,  at  different  times,  taken  notice  of 
similar  appearances,  on  which  they  have  formed  the 
same  conjectures,  but  without  examining  them  so 
minutely  as  I  did.  How  a  work  of  this  kind  could 
exist  in  a  country  that  has  hitherto  (according  to  die 
generally  received  opinion)  been  the  seat  of  war  to 
untutored  Indians  alone,  whose  whole  stock  of  mili- 
tary knowledge  has  only,  till  within  two  centuries, 
amounted  to  drawing  the  bow,  and  whose  only  breast- 
work even  at  present,  is  the  thicket,  I  know  not. 
I  have  given  as  exact  an  account  as  possible  of  this 
singular  appearance,  and  leave  to  future  explorers 
of  these  distant  regions,  to  discover  whether  it  is  a 
production  of  nature  or  art.  Perhaps  the  hints  I 
have  here  given  might  lead  to  a  more  perfect  investi- 
gation of  it,  and  give  us  very  different  ideas  of  the 
ancient  state  of  realms  that  we  at  present  believe  to 
have  been  from  the  earliest  period  only  the  habita- 
tions of  savages."* 

This  is  the  first  notice,  to  the  best  of  my  recollec- 
tion, ever  taken  by  a  transatlantic  writer  of  those  an- 
tique works,  which  are  now  daily  discovered,  in 
•very  part  of  the  western  country,  and  after  all  that 
has  been  poured  out  upon  this  subject,  the  conclude 

*  Carver's  Travels,  p.  30, 


334 

mg  observation  of  Carver,  made  in  the  American 
wilderness  sixty  years  ago,  embraces  half  the  sum 
of  our  knowledge  upon  the  subject  at  the  present 
day.  The  fact  of  the  existence  of  a  very  extensive 
work  at  the  place  above  mentioned,  is  corroborated 
by  a  conversation  I  have  had  on  that  subject  with 
Mr.  Harman  V.  Hart,  of  the  city  of  Albany,  who  has 
spent  five  years  as  a  trader  in  the  Sioux  countries, 
and  frequently  visited  the  works  in  question,  as  well 
as  those  upon  the  river  St.  Peter's,  which  are  noti- 
ced in  another  part  of  this  journal. 

At  four  o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  we  made  a  short 
halt  at  the  Sioux  village  of  Wabashaw,  which  is  eli- 
gibly situated  on  the  west  bank  of  the  Mississippi, 
sixty  miles  below  Lake  Pepin.  It  consists  of  four 
large  lodges,  with  a  population  of,  probably,  sixty 
souls.  A  present  of  tobacco  and  whiskey  was  given, 
and  we  again  embarked  at  twenty  minutes  before 
five  o'clock. 

A  few  miles  below  Wabashaw's  village,  an  isolat- 
ed mountain,  of  singular  appearance,  rises  out  of  the 
centre  of  the  river,  to  a  height  of  four  or  five  hun- 
dred feet,  where  it  terminates  in  crumbling  peaks  of 
naked  rock,  whose  lines  of  stratification  and  massy 
walls,    impress   forcibly    upon   the  mind   the    im- 
age of  some  gigantic  battlement  of  former  genera- 
tions.    Around  its  lower  extremity,  the  alluvion  of 
the    river  has    collected,   forming   a  large   island, 
covered   with  a   heavy  forest,   whose  deep  green 
foliage  forms  a  pleasing  contrast  with  the  barren 
grandeur  of  the  impending  rocks,  which  project  their 
gothic  pinnacles  into  the  clouds,  and  cast  a  sombre 
shadow  over  the  broad  and  glittering  bosom  of  the 
Mississippi.      This  singular  feature   in  the  topo- 


335 

graphy  of  the  country,  has  long  attracted  the  admi- 
ration, and  the  wonder,  of  the  voyageurs  of  the  Mis- 
sissippi, who  have  bestowed  upon  it  the  appellation 
of  The  Mountain  that  sinks  in  the  Water,  [La Mon- 
taigne qui  Trompe  dans  VEauJ)  an  opinion  being  pre- 
valent among  them,  that  it  annually  sinks  a  few  ^eet. 
This  island-mountain  is  four  or  five  miles  in  circum- 
ference, with  a  mean  width  of  half  a  mile,  and  by 
dividing  the  channel  of  the  river  into  two  equal 
halves,  gives  an  immense  width  to  the  river,  and 
thus  increases  the  grandeur  of  the  prospect.  It  is 
further  remarkable  as  being  the  only  fast,  or  rocky 
island,  in  the  whole  course  of  this  river,  from  the 
Falls  of  Peckagama,  to  the  Mexican  Gulf.  The 
west  channel  of  the  Mississippi,  opposite  this  moun- 
tain, receives  a  small  tributary,  called  The  River  of 
the  Mountain  that  Sinks  in  the  Water,  and  the  east 
channel,  another  of  similar  size,  called  Buffalo  river, 
(La  riviere  au  Bceuf.)  Both  may  be  considered  in 
the  fourth  class,  as  respects  size  and  importance,  of 
the  tributaries  of  the  Mississippi.  About  five  miles 
below  the  Sinking  Mountain,  we  encamped  on  the 
west  shore  of  the  river,  at  seven  in  the  evening,  hav- 
ing been  twelve  hours  upon  the  river,  and  descend- 
ed the  current  seventy  miles.  Immediately  in  the 
rear  of  our  camp,  there  was  a  lofty  range  of  river 
bluffs.  I  hastened  to  take  a  glimpse  of  their  geolo- 
gical character  before  the  daylight  disappeared, 
and  ob  gaining  the  summit,  had  a  commanding  view 
of  the  extensive  tract  of  bottom  land  on  the  oppo- 
site side  of  the  river,  which  consists,  in  part,  of  a 
heavy  wooded  forest,  interspersed  with  patches  of 
prairie,  and  bounded  at  the  distance  of  four  or  five 
miles,  by  a  range  of  calcareous  bluffs,  correspond- 


336 

Itig,  in  general  appearance,  to  that  upon  which  I 
stood.     The  scene  is  checquered  by  the  devious 
course  of  Black  River,  which  joins  the  Mississippi 
in  front, — by  the  mountain  that  sinks  in  the  water 
above,  and  the  broad  Mississippi,  with  its  numerous 
islands  and  channels,  at  a  depression  of  four  or  five 
hundred  feet  below.     Turning  the  eye  towards  the 
west,  the  country  has  the  general  elevation  of  the 
river    bluffs.      It  is  wooded  with  oak — with   tracts 
of  prairie — and  lies  in  ridges,  some   of  which  are 
entirely  covered  with  grass,  and  destitute  of  forest 
trees.      At  the  rapids  of  Black  River,  one   day's 
journey  in  a  canoe  from  its  mouth,  there  is  a  saw- 
mill recently  erected,  by  a  gentleman  at  Prairie  du 
Chien,  where  boards  and  scantling  are  already  saw- 
ed for  the  purposes  of  building  at  the  latter  place. 
Thus  is  the  empire  of  the  arts,  and  the  march  of  Eu- 
ropean population,  gradually  extending  into  regions 
which  have,  heretofore,  only  resounded  to  the  savage 
war  whoop,  or  if  they  have  ever  before  witnessed  a 
civilized  population,  (as  our  tumuli,  and  antiquities 
would  lead  us  to  infer,)  the  light  of  history,  and  the 
voice  of  tradition,   cast  not  a  solitary  beam  to  illu- 
mine our  researches,  or  direct  us  in  elucidating  the 
mysterious  history  of  the  aboriginal  tribes,  and  the 
ancient  state  of  society,  arts,  and  religion,  upon  our 
continent. 

A  short  time  previous  to  our  encampment,  we  ob- 
served a  large  grey  wolf  in  the  river  before  us,  mak- 
ing its  way  for  the  opposite  bank.  In  a  moment  ev- 
ery canoe  was  pointed  towards  it, — every  muscle 
was  strained  to  intercept  its  landing ;  and  we  shot 
down  the  stream  with  the  rapidity  of  an  eagle  who 
pouncos   upon  his  prey.     The  whooping  of  the  In- 


337 

dians, — the  shots  that  were  fired, — and  the  tumult  of 
so  many  paddles  dashing  in  the  water,  gave  great 
spirit  to  this  scene,  but  it  was  only  of  momen- 
tary duration,  as  the  wolf  soon  gained  the  sandy 
shore  of  the  river,  and  shaking  the  water  from  his 
meagre  flanks,  sprang  into  an  adjoining  thicket,  and 
in  a  moment  disappeared. 

LXXIV.  Day. — {August  5th.) — It  is  ninety  miles 
from  the  spot  of  our  encampment  to  Prairie  du  Chien. 
We  embarked  a  few  moments  after  three  in  the 
morning,  and  reached  the  Prairie,  at  six  in  the  af- 
ternoon. As  we  descend,  the  Mississippi  has  a  gra- 
dual increase  of  size,  and  its  valley  a  corresponding 
width. — The  calcareous  bluffs  continue  on  either 
shore.  In  the  course  of  this  day,  the  river  has  been 
swelled  by  the  rivers  Embarras,  La  Claire,  and  Ba- 
daxe,  the  two  former  uniting  at  the  point  of  their  en- 
|  trance  into  the  Mississippi. 

The  village  of  Prairie  du  Chien  is  pleasantly  situ- 
ated on  the  east  bank  of  the  river,  on  the  verge  of 
one  of  those  beautiful  and  extensive  natural  mead- 
ows, which  characterize  the  valley  of  the  Mississip- 
pi. It  consists  of  about  eighty  buildings,  including 
the  garrison,  the  principal  part  of  which  are  of  logs, 
arranged  in  two  streets  parallel  with  the  river.* 
and  is  estimated  to  have  an  aggregate  population  of 
five  hundred.  This,  is  exclusive  of  the  garrison,  now 
consisting  of  a  company  of  infantry,  ninety-six  strong, 
under  the  command  of  Capt.  Fowle. 

The  village  of  Prairie  du  Chien  takes  its  name 
from  a  family  of  Fox  Indians  who  formerly  resided 
there,  and  were  distinguished  by  the  appellation  of 
Dogs.     The  present  settlement  was  first  begun  in 

43 


y 


338 

J 783,  by  Mr.  Giard,  Mr.  Antaya,  and  Mr.  Dubuque, 
There  had  formerly  been  an  old  settlement  about  a 
mile  below  the  site  of  the  present  village,  which  ex- 
isted during  the  lime  that  the  French  held  possession 
of  the  Canadas,  but  it  was  abandoned,  chiefly  on  ac- 
count of  its  unhealthy  situation,  being  near  the  bor- 
ders of  an  extensive  tract  of  overflowed  grounds. 
The  early  settlers,  according  to  the  principles  adopt- 
ed by  the  French  colonists  in  the  Canadas,  intermar- 
ried with  Indian  women,  and  the  present  population 
is  the  result  of  this  connexion.  In  it,  we  behold  the 
only  instance  which  our  country  presents,  of  the 
complete  and  permanent  civilization  of  the  aborigi- 
nes ;  and  it  may  be  doubted,  after  all  that  has  been 
said  upon  the  subject,  whether  this  race  can  ever  be 
reclaimed  from  the  savage  state,  by  any  other  meth- 
od. The  result,  in  the  present  instance,  is  such  as  to 
equal  the  most  sanguine  expectations  of  the  philan- 
thropist, in  regard  to  a  mixed  species.  They  are  said 
to  exhibit  evidences  of  enterprise,  industry,  and  a 
regard  to  order  and  the  laws,  at  the  same  time,  that 
we  perceive  the  natural  taciturnity  of  the  savage, 
happily  counterpoised  by  the  vivacity  and  suavity 
of  the  French  character,  producing  manners  which 
are  sprightly  without  frivolity,  and  serious  without 
becoming  morose. 

Prairie  Du  Chien  is  the  seat  of  justice  for  Craw- 
ford county,  which  has  recently  been  erected  in 
♦his  part  of  the  Michigan  Territory,*  and  a  court  of 

*  The  Northwestern  Territory  does  not  at  present  exist  in  law. 
On  the  admission  of  the  state  of  Illinois  into  the  Union,  the  re- 
gions northwest  of  it,  and  east  of  the  Mississippi  river,  extending; 
to  its  source,  were  incorporated  with  the  government  of  Michi- 
gan. 


339 

justice  has  already  been  established.  There  is  al- 
so a  company  of  militia  formed  out  of  the  Gallico- 
savage  population,  who  perform  the  usual  services 
with  promptitude.  There  is  a  school,  however, 
wanting,  for  the  rising  generation,  and  a  suitable 
opening  appears  to  be  presented  for  a  person  who 
could  unite  the  characters  of  a  moral  and  religious 
instructor. 

The  fortification  at  this  place  consists  of  four  lines 
of  log  barracks  facing  a  square  parade  ground,  and 
defended  by  bastions  at  the  northwest  and  south- 
east angles.  The  logs  are  squared  and  whitewash- 
ed, and  the  works  occupy  a  considerable  extent  of 
ground,  and  have  a  very  neat,  and  imposing  appear- 
ance. There  is  a  large  and  fertile  island  in  the 
Mississippi,  opposite  the  village,  and  a  high  calcare- 
ous bluff  on  the  opposite  bank. — The  Ousconsing 
joins  the  Mississippi  one  league  below. — There  is  a 
Bayou,  or  marsh,  at  the  point  of  confluence,  which 
extends  into  the  prairie  to  within  a  mile  of  the  vil- 
lage, and  is  thought  to  render  it  unhealthy  at  partic- 
ular seasons.  The  lead  mines  are  situated  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  river  twenty-five  leagues  below. 


CHAPTER  XII.* 
VISIT, 


TO  THE  LEAD  MLXES  OF  DUBUQUE,  ON  THE  UPPER 
MISSISSIPPI. 


LXXV.  Day.— (August  6th.) 

As  a  delay  of  several  days  was  anticipated  at 
Prairie  du  Chien,  1  solicited  Governor  Cass  for  per- 
mission to  employ  the  time  in  visiting  the  lead  mines 
of  the  upper  Mississippi,  which  had  acquired  some 
celebrity  from  their  reputed  extent,  and  the  novel 
circumstance  of  their  being  worked  by  the  Indian 
tribes.  I  left  the  prairie  at  half  past  eleven  in  the 
morning,  in  a  canoe  manned  by  eight  voyage urs,  in- 
cluding a  guide.  Three  miles  below,  we  passed  the 
mouth  of  the  Ousconsing,  which  is  a  large  and  ma- 
jestic stream,  and  communicates  by  a  short  portage 
with  the  Fox  river  of  Green  Bay — a  route  which 
we  are  to  pursue  on  our  return  to  Detroit.  Nine 
leagues  below  the  Ousconsing,  Turkey  river  enters 
the  Mississippi  on  the  west  bank,  by  a  mouth  of 
sixty  yards  in  width.  This  stream  is  one  of  the 
principal  hunting  grounds  of  the  Fox  Indians,  and 
communicates,  by  its  main  northwestern  fork,  with 
the  Terre  Bleu  of  St.  Peter's.  There  is  a  Fox  vil- 
lage (now  deserted)  of  twelve  lodges,  a  mile  below, 
on  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi.  Here  I  en- 
camped at  seven  o'clock  in  the  evening,  having  de- 


34  J 

scended  the  river  thirty-one  miles  against  a  strong 
head  wind.  1  found  the  lodges  to  be  large,  and 
built  of  logs,  in  the  same  substantial  manner  prac- 
tised among  the  Narcotah  bands.  The  cause  of 
their  being  now  deserted,  is  the  fear  entertained  of 
an  attack  from  the  Sioux,  in  retaliation  for  the  mas- 
sacre lately  perpetrated  upon  the  banks  of  the  St 
Peters.  The  desertion  appears  to  have  taken  place 
after  they  had  planted  their  corn,  and  from  the  or- 
der in  which  the  village  is  left,  it  may  be  concluded 
that  its  re-occupation  is  kept  in  view.  I  found  sev- 
eral small  gardens  and  corn  fields  adjoining  the  vil- 
lage, in  which  squashes,  beans,  and  pumpkins  were 
abundant,  but  the  corn  had  been  nearly  all  destroy- 
ed, probably  by  wild  animals.  Walking  back  from 
the  river  half  a  mile,  to  examine  the  geological  char- 
acter of  an  adjoining  bluff,  I  was  surprised  to  find 
an  extensive  field  of  water  and  musk-melons,  situa- 
ted in  the  midst  of  a  grove  of  small,  scattering  trees, 
but  without  any  inclosure.  Some  of  the  fruit  had 
been  destroyed  by  animals,  but  a  great  abundance 
still  remained,  although  I  found  none  perfect- 
ly ripe.  This  must  have  been  owing  to  the  sha- 
ded situation  of  the  vines,  and  not  to  a  defect  of  cli- 
mate, as  we  found  the  water-melon  in  full  maturity 
at  Prairie  du  Chien,  which  is  thirty  miles  north. 

LXXV1.  Day.— (August  1th.)— We  had  frequent 
peals  of  thunder  during  the  night,  and  the  atmos- 
phere threatened  a  rain-storm,  as  daylight  approach- 
ed. I  embarked  at  half  past  three  in  the  morning. 
It  commenced  raining  in  twenty  minutes  afterwards, 
and  continued  incessantly  until  my  arrival  at  the 
Fox  village  of  the  Kettle  chief,  where  1  landed  at 


342 

ten  o'clock,  having  descended   the  river  iorty-nve 
miles. 

The  Kettle  chiefs  village  is  situated  on  the  west 
bank  of  the  river,  and  consists  of  nineteen  lodges* 
built  in  two  rows — pretty  compact — with  a  popula- 
tion of  two  hundred  and  fifty  souls.  In  the  Missis- 
sippi river,  directly  opposite  this  village,  there  is  a 
large  island,  where  a  number  of  traders  are  con- 
stantly stationed  for  the  purpose  of  supplying  the  In- 
dians with  merchandize,  and  purchasing  their  lead. 
Concluding  I  should  there  find  an  interpreter  of  the 
Fox  language,  I  first  landed  upon  the  island,  and 
met  with  the  most  friendly  reception  from  the  tra- 
ders, who  readily  communicated  to  me  the  informa- 
tion I  sought,  respecting  the  location,  number,  and 
value  of  the  mines,  and  the  method  of  working 
them,  together  with  specimens  of  the  ores,  and  ac- 
companying minerals.  The  rain  ceased  an  hour  af- 
ter my  arrival,  when  I  proceeded  across  an  arm  of 
the  Mississippi  to  the  Kettle  chief's  village,  to  soli- 
cit his  permission,  and  procure  Indian  guides,  to 
explore  the  mines  which  are  situated  in  the  interior. 
I  was  accompanied  on  this  visit  by  Mr.  Gates,  as  in- 
terpreter, and  by  Dr.  S.  Muir,  a  trader  of  the  isl- 
and, who  politely  offered  to  go  out  with  me.  On 
entering  the  Kettle  chiefs  lodge,  I  found  him  suf- 
fering under  a  severe  attack  of  bilious  fever.  As  I 
approached  him,  he  sat  up  on  his  pallet,  being  una- 
ble to  stand,  and  bid  me  welcome,  but  soon  became 
exhausted  by  the  labour  of  conversation,  and  was 
obliged  to  resume  his  former  position.  He  appear- 
ed to  be  a  man  of  eighty  years  of  age — with  a  ven- 
erable look,  but  reduced  to  the  last  stage  of  phys- 
ical debility,  yet  retaining,  unimpaired,  his  faculties 


343 

of  sight  and  hearing,  and  his  mental  powers ;  and 
he  spoke  to  me  of  his  death  with  calm  resignation, 
and  as  a  thing  to  be  desired.  On  stating  the  object 
of  my  visit,  some  objections  were  made  by  the 
chiefs  who  surrounded  him,  and  they  required  fur- 
ther time  to  consider  the  proposition.  In  the  mean 
time,  1  learned  from  another  source,  that  since  the 
death  of  Dubuque,  to  whom  they  had  formerly 
granted  the  privilege  of  working  the  mines,  they 
had  manifested  a  great  jealousy  of  the  whites — were 
afraid  they  would  encroach  upon  their  rights — de- 
nied all  former  grants,  and  did  not  make  it  a  prac- 
tice even  to  allow  strangers  to  view  their  diggings, 
&c.  Apprehending  some  difficulties  of  this  kind,  I 
had  provided  myself  with  some  Indian  presents,  and 
concluding  this  to  be  the  true  cause  of  the  reluc- 
tance manifested,  directed  one  of  my  voyageurs  to 
bring  in  a  present  of  whiskey  and  tobacco ;  and  in  a 
few  moments  afterwards  received  their  assent,  and 
two  guides  were  furnished  to  conduct  us  out.  One 
of  these,  was  a  soldier-chief  of  the  Fox  tribe,  called 
Sea-bass,  or  the  yelling  wolf;  the  other,  Wa-ba-say-ah, 
or  the  white  Fox  skin. 

The  district  of  country  generally  called  Dudujuvs 
Lead  mines,  embraces  an  area  of  about  twenty-one 
square  leagues,  commencing  at  the  mouth  of  the 
little  Maquanquitons  river,  sixty  miles  below  Prai- 
rie du  Chien,  and  extending  along  the  west  bank  of 
the  Mississippi,  seven  leagues  in  front  by  three  in 
depth.  The  principal  mines  are  situated  upon  a 
tract  of  one  square  league,  commencing  immediate- 
ly at  the  Fox  village  of  the  Kettle  chief,  and  ex- 
tending westward.  This  is  the  seat  of  the  mining 
operations  formerly  carried  on  by  Dubuque,  and  of 


344 

what  are  called  the  Indian  diggings.  The  ore  found 
is  the  common  sulphuret  of  lead,  with  a  broad  folia- 
ted structure,  and  high  metallic  lustre.  It  occurs 
massive,  and  disseminated,  in  a  reddish  loam, 
resting  upon  lime  stone  rock,  and  sometimes  is  seen 
in  small  veins  pervading  the  rock,  but  it  has  been 
chiefly  explored  in  alluvial  soil.  It  generally  occurs 
in  beds  or  veins,  which  have  no  great  width,  and 
run  in  a  certain  direction  three  or  four  hundred 
yards, — then  cease,  or  are  traced  into  some  cre- 
vice in  the  rock,  having  the  appearance  of  a  regular 
vein.  At  this  stage  of  the  pursuit  most  of  the  dig- 
gings have  been  abandoned,  and  frequently,  with 
small  veins  of  ore  in  view.  No  matrix  is  found  with 
the  ore  which  is  dug  out  of  the  alluvial  soil,  but  it  is 
inveloped  by  the  naked  earth,  and  the  lumps  of  ore 
are  incrusted  by  an  ochreous  earth.  Occasionally, 
however,  some  pieces  of  calcareous  spar,  are  thr6wn 
out  of  the  earth  in  digging  after  lead,  and  I  picked  up 
a  solitary  specimen  of  the  transparent  sulphat  of 
barytes,  but  these  substances  appear  to  be  very 
rare.  There  is  none  of  the  radiated  quartz,  or 
while  opake  heavy  spar,  which  is  so  common  at 
the .  Missouri  mines.  The  calcareous  rock  upon 
which  this  alluvial  formation,  containing  lead  ore, 
rests,  appears  to  be  referable  to  the  transition  class. 
I  have  not  ascertained  its  particular  extent  about 
the  mines.  The  same  formation  is  seen,  overlayed 
by  a  distinct  stratum  of  compact  lime  stone,  con- 
taining numerous  petrifactions,  at  several  places,  be- 
tween the  mines  and  Prairie  du  Chien.  The  lead 
ore  at  these  mines  is  now  exclusively  dug  by  the 
Fox  Indians,  and,  as  is  usual  among  savage  tribes, 
the  chief  labour  devolves  upon  the  women.     The 


343 

old  and  superannuated  men  also  partake  in  these  la- 
bours, but  the  warriors  and  young  men,  hold  them- 
selves above  it.  They  employ  the  hoe,  shovel, 
pick-axe,  and  crow-bar,  in  taking  up  the  ore.  These 
things  are  supplied  by  the  traders,  but  no  shafts 
are  sunk,  not  even  of  the  simplest  kind,  and  the 
windlass  and  bucket  are  unknown  among  them. — 
They  run  drifts  into  the  hills  so  far  as  they  can  con- 
veniently go,  without  the  use  of  gun-powder,  and 
if  a  trench  caves  in,  it  is  abandoned.  They  always 
dig  down  at  such  an  angle  that  they  can  walk  in 
and  out  of  the  pits,  and  1  descended  into  one  of 
these,  which  had  probably  been  carried  down  forty 
feet.  All  this,  is  the  work  of  the  Indian  women  and 
old  men,  who  discover  a  degree  of  perseverance  and 
industry,  which  is  deserving  of  the  highest  commend- 
ation. When  a  quantity  of  ore  has  been  got  out,  it 
is  carried  in  baskets,  by  the  women,  to  the  banks  of 
the  Mississippi,  and  there  ferried  over  in  canoes 
to  the  island,  where  it  is  purchased  by  the  traders 
at  the  rate  of  two  dollars  for  a  hundred  and  twenty 
pounds,  payable  in  goods  at  Indian  prices.  At  the 
profits  at  which  these  goods  are  usually  sold,  it  may 
jjbe  presumed  to  cost  the  traders  from  seventy-five 
cents  to  a  dollar,  cash  value,  per  hundred  weight. 
The  traders  smelt  the  ore  upon  the  island,  in  furna- 
ces of  the  same  construction  used  at  the  lead  mines 
of  Missouri,  and  observe,  that  it  yields  the  same 
per  centum  of  metallic  lead.  Formerly,  the  Indians 
were  in  the  habit  of  smelting  their  ore  themselves, 
Upon  log-heaps,  by  which  a  great  portion  was  con- 
verted into  what  are  called  lead-ashes,  and  thus  lost. 
Now,  the  tradersvinduce  them  to  search  about  the 
sites  of  those  ancient  fires,  and  carefully  collect  the 

U 


346 

lead  ashes,  for  which  they  receive  a  dollar  per 
bushel,  delivered  at  the  island,  payable  in  merchan- 
dize. 

There  are  three  lead  mines,  in  addition  to  those 
above  mentioned,  situated  upon  the  upper  Missis- 
sippi, which  are  worked  by  the  Indian  tribes,  name- 
ly, the  Sissinaway  mines, — mine  au  Fevre, — and  the 
mines  of  the  little  Maquanquitons. 

f.  The  Sissinaway  Mines. — These  are  situated  fif- 
teen miles  below  the  Kettle  chiefs  village,  on  the 
east  shore  of  the  Mississippi,  and  at  the  junction  of 
the  Sissinaway  river. 

II.  Mine  au  Fcvre. — Situated  on  the  river  au  Fevrer 
which  enters  the  Mississippi  on  the  east  shore,  twen- 
ty-one miles  below  Dubuque's  mines.  The  lead  ore 
is  found  ten  miles  above  its  mouth.  At  this  place, 
there  is  a  considerable  quantity  of  sulphat  of  ba- 
rytes,  and  the  ore  is  often  found  crystalized  in  re- 
gular cubes,  octahedrons,  &c. 

III.  Mine  of  Maquanquitons. — This  is  a  short  dis- 
tance up  the  little  Maquanquiton's  river,  which 
flows  into  the  Mississippi  fifteen  miles  above  Du- 
buque's mines.  It  has  been  the  least  explored  of 
any. 

The  Fox,  or  Outagami  Indians,  upon  whose  ter- 
ritories these  mines  are  situated,  are  settled  upon 
both  banks  of  the  Mississippi,  between  Prairie  du 
Chien  and  Rock  rivers,  and  Claim  the  lands  thus  oc- 
cupied, and  extending  a  certain  distance  east  and 
west  of  the  river.  They  are  bounded  by  the  lands 
of  the  Sioux  of  the  Missouri,  on  the  west, — by  the 
Winnebagoes,  and  Pottawattamies,  on  the  east,  and 
by  the  Sacs  and  Kickapoos  on  the  south.  Their 
■principal  village  is  that  called  the  Kettle  Chiefs,  at 


347 

Dubuque's  mines,  seventy-five  miles  below  Prairie 
du  Chien.  They  have  another  village  at  the  Rock 
river  rapids,  a  hundred  and  sixty  miles  below.  It 
consists  of  fourteen  lodges,  and  a  hundred  and  fif- 
ty souls.  On  the  east  bank  of  the  Mississippi,  near 
the  foot  of  Rock  island,  there  is  a  large  village  of 
Foxes  and  Sacs,  living  promiscuously  together. — It 
consists  of  sixty  lodges,  being  one  of  the  largest 
and  most  populous  Indian  villages  on  the  continent. 
They  have  also  a  small  village  at  the  mouth  of  Tur- 
key river,  thirty  miles  below  Prairie  du  Chien,  but 
it  is  at  present  temporarily  deserted.  These  villa- 
ges comprise  the  strength  of  the  Fox  tribe,  which 
is  estimated  at  four  hundred  souls.  They  are  near- 
ly related  to  the  Sacs,  from  whom  they  have  se- 
ceded within  the  last  century.  They  also  claim  re- 
lationship with  the  Chippeways.  Of  their  own  ori- 
gin they  know  very  little.  As  far  as  their  traditions 
extend,  they  came  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Kings- 
ton, in  Upper  Canada.  From  thence  they  were 
driven  into  the  vicinity  of  Michilimackinac,  and  af- 
terwards to  Green  Bay,  and  along  the  river  which 
falls  into  its  head,  and  bears  their  name.  At  Fox 
river,  they  suffered  a  signal  defeat,  from  a  body  of 
combined  French  and  Indians,  at  a  place  since  call- 
ed La  Butte  de  mort,  or  the  Hill  of  the  dead;  and 
were  driven  to  the  banks  of  the  Ousconsing,  from 
which  they  subsequently  emigrated,  to  the  country 
they  now  occupy.  They  speak  the  Algon- 
quin language,  with  a  great  many  peculiarities,  and 
corruptions,  and  are  supposed  to  be  one  of  the  nu- 
merous bands  into  which  that  once  powerful  nation, 
has  been  scattered.  The  name  of  Reynards  or  Foxes, 
appears  first  to  have  been  bestowed  on  them,  du- 


318 

ring  their  sojournment  at  Green  Bay.  The  history 
of  their  migrations  and  wars,  shews  them  to  have 
been  a  restless  and  spirited  people — erratic  in  their 
dispositions,  having  agreat  contempt  for  agriculture, 
and  a  predominant  passion  for  war.  By  this  means, 
they  have  been  continually  changing — suffering—^ 
and  diminishing,  until  they  are  reduced  to  a  hundred 
fighting  men.  Still,  they  retain  their  ancient  char- 
acter, and  are  constantly  embroiled  in  wars  and 
disputes  with  their  neighbours,  the  results  of  which 
shew,  that  they  have  more  courage  in  battle,  than 
wisdom  in  council.  In  their  dealings  with  the  tra- 
ders, they  are  cunning  and  deceitful.  In  their  en- 
gagements, they  lack  punctuality,  and  in  their 
friendships,  constancy;  yet  they  profess  a  fawning 
friendship  for  all.  Hence  the  French  traders  early 
applied  to  them,  in  derision,  the  term  of  dogs,  and 
foxes.  They  are  at  present  waring  with  the  Sioux, 
and  lately  surprised  and  killed  nine  of  that  nation, 
on  a  branch  of  the  St.  Peter's,  catled  Terre  Bleu, 
where  they  both  resort  to  procure  the  blue  clay, 
with  which  they  are  fond  of  painting  themselves. — 
There  is  now  a  war  party  of  twenty  men,  in  the 
same  direction,  under  a  half-breed,  by  the  name  of 
Morgan.  This  party  went  out  by  Turkey  river, 
and  are  supposed  to  have  marched  against  the  Sissi- 
longs  of  the  St.  Peter's.  They  are  also  on  bad 
terms  with  the  Pawnees,  and  Osages,  south  of  the 
Missouri,  and  with  the  Winnebagoes,  in  their  own 
neighbourhood,  from  whom  they  occasionally  steal 
horses,  and  are  plundered  in  return. 

In  1780,  a  discovery  of  lead  ore  was  made  upon 
their  lands  by  the  wife  of  Peosta,  a  warrior  of  the 
Kettle  duel's  village,  and  extensive  mines  have 


349 

since  been  discovered.  These,  were  granted  by 
the  Indians  to  J  ulien  Dubuque  at  a  council  held  at 
Prairie  du  Chien  in  1788,  by  virtue  of  which  he 
settled  upon  the  lands — erected  buildings  and  furna- 
ces, and  continued  to  work  the  mines,  until  the 
year  1810.  In  the  meantime  (H96)  he  received 
a  confirmation  of  the  Indian  grant  from  the  Baron 
de  Carondelet,  Governor  of  Louisiana,  in  which 
they  were  designated  the  "  Mines  of  Spain." 

"  Julien  Dubuque,"  by  a  stone  monument  which 
stands  on  a  hill  near  the  mines,  "  died  on  the  24th 
of  March,  1810,  aged  45  years,  6  months."  After 
his  death,  the  Indians  burnt  down  his  house  and  fen- 
ces, and  erased  every  vestige  of  civilized  life,  and 
they  have  since  revoked,  or  at  least,  denied  the 
grant,  and  appear  to  set  a  very  high  value  upon 
the  mines.  Dubuque  dying  in  debt,  his  claims 
were  assigned  to  his  creditors,  by  whom  they  were 
presented  for  confirmation,  to  the  board  of  Com- 
missioners appointed  by  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment in  1806,  to  determine  upon  the  land  titles  and 
grants  of  the  newly  acquired  Territory  of  Louisia 
na.  By  this  Board,  the  claim  of  the  assignees  was 
determined  to  be  valid,  and  a  memorial  of  their 
proceedings  transmitted  to  the  Treasury  Depart- 
ment, at  Washington,  for  the  final  decision  of  Con* 
gress.  In  this  stage  of  the  investigation,  Mr.  Gal- 
latin, transmits,  by  way  of  report,  to  the  President  of 
the  United  States,  the  following  facts,  and  remarks, 
which  may  be  considered  as  embracing  the  views  of 
the  government,  in  relation  to  one  of  the  most  im- 
portant of  the  western  land  claims,  which  still  re- 
main undecided. 


350 

FACTS. 

"  In  1788,  Dubuque  purchased  from  the  Indian^ 
an  extent  of  seven  leagues  front  on  the  Mississippi, 
by  three  leagues  in  depth,  containing  upwards  of 
one  hundred  and  forty  thousand  acres,  and  the  most 
valuable  lead  mines  of  Louisiana,  situated  about  five 
hundred  miles  above  St.  Louis,  The  sale  is  very 
vague ;  they  permit  Dubuque  to  work  the  mine  as 
long  as  he  pleases,  and  till  he  thinks  proper  to  aban- 
don it,  without  confining  him  to  any  time  ;  and  they 
also  sell  him  the  hill  and  contents  of  the  land  (or 
mine)  found  by  Peosta's  wife,  and  if  he  finds  no- 
thing in  it,  he  may  work  where  he  pleases,  and 
work  quietly.  In  1796,  he  presents  his  re.quete,  to 
Governor  Carondelet  at  New-Orleans,  stating  that 
he  has  made  a  settlement  (habitation)  or  settled  a 
plantation  amongst  the  Indians,  that  he  has  purchas- 
ed from  them  a  portion  of  land  with  all  the  mines 
therein  contained  ;  that  the  habitation  is  but  a.  point, 
and  inasmuch  as  the  mines  he  works,  are  three 
leagues  from  each  other,  he  requests  the  governor 
to  grant  him  the  peaceable  possession  of  the  mines  and 
lands,  contained  within  certain  natural  boundaries, 
and  which  he  states  as  being  above  six  leagues  in 
front,  and  three  in  depth. 

"  The  governor  refers  the  application  for  informa- 
lion  to  A.  Todd,  who  had  the  monopoly  of  the  In- 
dian trade  on  the  Mississippi. 

44  A.  Todd  reports,  that  no  objection  occurs  to  him, 
if  the  governor  thinks  it  convenient  to  grant  the  ap- 
plication, provided  that  Dubuque  shall  not  trade 
with  the  Indians  without  his  permission. 

"  Governor  Carondelet,  writes  at  the  foot  of  the  re- 
quest, "  granted  as  is  asked  (concedido  como  se  so- 


351 

licita)  under  the  restrictions  mentioned  by  Todd, 
in  his  information,  10th  November,  1796." 

"  Governor  Harrison  in  his  treaty  with  the  Sacs  and 
Foxes,  of  the  3d  November,  1804,  introduces  an  ar- 
ticle, by  which  it  is  agreed,  that  nothing  in  the  trea- 
ty shall  affect  the  claim  of  individuals  who  might 
have  obtained  grants  of  land  from  the  Spanish  go- 
vernment, known  to,  and  recognised  by  the  Indians, 
though  such  grants  be  not  included  within  the  boun- 
dary line  fixed  by  the  treaty  with  said  Indians.  And 
the  same  governor  certifies  that  the  article  was  in- 
serted with  the  intention  of  particularly  embracing 
Dubuque's  claim.  The  claim  having  been  laid  be 
fore  the  commissioners,  they  made  on  the  20th  Sep- 
tember, 1 806,  the  following  decision : 

"  A  majority  of  the  board,  John  B.  C.  Lucas  dis- 
senting, ascertain  this  claim  to  be  a  complete  Spa- 
nish grant,  made  and  completed  prior  to  the  1st 
day  of  October,  1800. 

"  A  copy  of  that  decision,  tested  by  the  assistant 
clerk  of  the  board,  has  been  delivered  to  Aug :  Chou- 
teau, •J'ho  had  purchased  from  Dubuque,  one  undi- 
vided half  of  the  claim." 

REMARKS. 

"  I.  Governor  Harrison's  treaty  adds  no  sanction 
to  the  claim :  It  is  only  a  saving  clause  in  favour  of 
a  claim,  without  deciding  on  its  merits,  a  question 
which  indeed  he  had  no  authority  to  decide. 

<%  II.  The  form  of  the  concession,  if  it  shall  be  so 
called,  is  not  that  of  a  patent,  or  final  grant,  and 
that  it  was  not  considered  as  such  the  commission- 
ers knew, as  they  had  previously  received  a  list  pro- 
cured from  the  records  at  New-Orleans,   and  trans- 


352 

uiitted  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury,  of  all  the 
patents  issued  under  the  French  and  Spanish  go- 
vernments, in  which  this  was  not  included,  and 
which  also  showed  the  distinction  between  conces- 
sion, and  patent,  or  complete  title. 

"III.  The  form  of  the  concession  is  not  even  that 
used,  when  it  was  intended  ultimately  to  grant  the 
land  ;  for  it  is  then  uniformly  accompanied  with  an 
order  to  the  proper  officer  to  survey  the  land,  on 
which  survey  being  returned,  the  patent  issues. 

"  IV.  The  Governor  only  grants  as  is  asked ;  and 
nothing  is  asked  but  the  peaceable  possession  of  a 
tract  of  land  on  which  the  Indians  had  given  a  per- 
sonal permission  to  work  the  lead  mines  as  long  as 
he  should  remain. 

"  Upon  the  whole,  this  appears  to  have  been  a 
mere  permission  to  work  certain  distant  mines,  with- 
out any  alienation  of,  or  intention  to  alienate,  the 
domain. — Such  permission  might  be  revoked  at  will ; 
how  it  came  to  be  considered  as  transferring  the 
fee  simple,  or  even  as  an  incipient  and  incomplete 
title  to  the  fee  simple,  cannot  be  understood. 

"  it  seems,  also,  that  the  commissioners,  ought 
not  to  have  given  to  any  person  certificates  of  their 
proceeding,  tending  to  give  a  colour  of  title  to 
claimants.  They  were  by  law  directed  to  transmit 
to  the  treasury  a  transcript  of  their  decisions,  in 
order  that  the  same  might  be  laid  before  Congress 
for  approbation  or  rejection."* 

The  mines  of  Dubuque  were  among  the  objects 
to  which  the  attention  of  Lieutenant  Pike   was  di- 

*  Collection  of  Land  Laws  of  the  United  States,  priuted  at 
Washington,  1817- 


353 

rected,  in  his  voyage  up  the  Mississippi  in  1805,  but 
a  number  of  circumstances  prevented  him  from  vis- 
iting the  mines,  or  from  procuring  much  information 
upon  the  subject.  It  did  not  suit  the  views  of  Mr. 
Dubuque,  to  encourage  his  visit — the  mines  were 
represented  at  a  great  distance — he  pretended  to 
have  no  horses  at  command,  &c.  Under  these  cir- 
cumstances, Lieutenant  Pike  contented  himself,  by 
proposing  to  Mr.  Dubuque,  a  number  of  queries  in 
writing,  but  the  answers  given,  do  not  appear  to  be 
entitled  to  full  confidence,  and  are  somewhat  equi- 
vocal.* 

*  Queries  proposed  by  Lieutenant  Pike,  to  Mr.  Dubuque — with 
his  Answers. 

1.  What  is  the  date  of  your  grant  of  the  mines  from  the  savages  ? 
Ans.  The  copy  of  the  grant  is  in   Mr-  Soulard's  Office,  at   St. 

Louis. 

2.  What  is  the  date  of  the  confirmation  by  the  Spaniards  ? 
Ans.  The  same  as  to  query  first. 

3.  What  is  the  extent  of  your  grant  ? 
Ans.  The  same  as  above. 

4.  What  is  the  extent  of  the  mines  ? 
Ans.  Twenty-eight  or  twenty-seven  leagues  long,  and  from  one 

to  three  broad. 

5.  Lead  made  per  annum  ? 
Ans.  From  20  to  40,000  pounds. 

6.  Quantity  of  lead  per  cwt.  of  mineral  ? 
Ans.  Seventy-five  percent. 
7-  Quantity  of  lead  in  pigs  ? 
Ans.  All  he  makes,  as  he  neither  manufactures  bar,  sheet-lead^ 

or  shot. 
8.  If  mixed  with  any  other  mineral  ? 

Ans.  We  have  seen  some  copper,  but  having  no  person  suffi- 
iently  acquainted  with  chemistry,  to  make  the  experiment,  pro- 
erly}  I  cannot  say  as  to  the  proportion  it  bears  to  the  lead. 

J.  DUBUQUE, 
Z.  M.  PIKE, 
Lead  Mines,  1st  Sept.  1805. 

45 


3M 

Having  examined  the  mines  with  as  much  mi- 
nuteness as  the  time  allotted  to  me,  would  permit. 
I  returned  to  the  Mississippi  in  the  evening,  and 
proceeding  two  leagues  up  the  river,  encamped  up- 
on an  island,  at  eight  o'clock. 

LXXVII.  Day.— {August  8th.)— -I  embarked  at 
tour  o'clock  in  the  morning — passed  the  mouth  of 
Turkey  river  at  two  o'clock — and  encamped  upon  a 
small  island,  one  league  below  the  mouth  of  the 
Ousconsing,  at  eight  in  the  evening,  having  been 
sixteen  hours  in  my  canoe,  and  ascended  the  river 
sixty-three  miles. 

LXXVII1.  Day.— (August  9th.)— I  passed  the 
mouth  of  the  Ousconsing  before  day-break,  and 
reached  Prairie  du  Chien,  at  six  in  the  morning, 
after  an  absence  of  three  days,  during  which,  1  have 
travelled  a  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  forty-five  of 
which  were  made  under  an  exposure  to  a  rain  storm. 

The  valley  of  the  Mississippi  between  Prairie  du 
Chien,  and  the  lead  mines  of  Dubuque,  is  about  two 
miles  in  width,  and  consists  of  a  rich  deposit  of  al- 
luvial soil,  a  part  of  which,  is  prairie ;  and  the  re- 
mainder, covered  with  a  heavy  forest  of  elm,  sugar 
tree,  black  walnut,  ash,  and  cotton  wood.  It  is 
bounded  on  each  side  by  corresponding  bluffs  of 
calcareous  rocks,  which  attain  a  general  elevation 
of  four  hundred  feet,  and  throw  an  interest  over  the 
scene — which  prairies  and  forests — woody  islands, 
and  winding  channels,  beautiful  and  picturesque,  as 
they  certainly  are,  must  fail  to  create.  It  is  to  these 
bluffs, — now  shooting  into  spiral  columns,  naked  and 
crumbling — now  sloping  into  grassy  hills,  or  inter- 


355 

sected  by  lateral  vallies — here,  grouped  in  the 
fantastic  forms  of  some  antiquated  battlement, 
mocking  the  ingenuity  of  man — there,  stretching  as 
far  as  the  eye  can  reach  in  a  perpendicular  wall — 
but  ever  varying — pleasing — and  new — it  is  to 
these  bluffs,  that  the  valley  of  the  upper  Mississip- 
pi, owes  all  its  grandeur  and  magnificence.  Its  broad 
and  glittering  channel — its  woodless  prairies  and  as- 
piring forests-its  flowering  shrubs  and  animated  pro- 
ductions— only  serve  to  fill  up,  and  give  effect  to 
the  imposing  outline,  so  boldly  sketched  by  the  pen- 
cil of  nature,  in  these  sublime  and  pleasing  bluffs. — 
Yet,  there  is  much  in  the  detail  of  the  scene,  to  ad- 
mire— in  the  beauty  of  its  tints — the  fancy  of  the 
grouping — and  the  mellowness  of  the  shades. 

Among  the  humbler  growth,  which  adorns  the 
borders  of  the  forest,  the  cornus  florida,  the  sarsa- 
parilla,  and  the  sumach,  are  frequently  to  be  seen, 
still  beautiful  in  the  unbleached  verdure  of  spring, 
and  bathing  their  impending  branches  in  the  rushing 
stream,  while  the  splendid  foliage  of  the  autumnal 
forest,  is  already  visible  in  the  rich  hues  ofthe  fading 
maple,  the  heart-leaved  aspen,  and  ;the  populus 
angulata. 

The  tall  grass  of  the  prairies,  although  it  has  al- 
so assumed  the  yellow  hue  of  autumn,  and  rustles  in 
the  northern  breeze,  is  yet  occasionally  chequered 
with  green  copses  of  shrubby  oaks,  and  beautified 
with  the  peculiar  tribe  of  heath-flowers,  which  lin- 
ger unblown,  through  the  sultry  heats  of  July,  to 
scatter  their  fragrance  over  the  fading  fields  of  Au- 
gust. The  channel  of  the  river,  is  often  expanded 
to  an  amazing  width,  and  spotted  with  innumerable 
islands,  some  of  which,   are  nothing  more  than  a 


356 

bank  of  yellow  sand  just  looming  above  tbe  water, 
and  crowned  with  a  brushy  growth,  of  young  wil- 
lows and  slender  cotton  woods :  others,  present 
copses  of  the  tallest  trees,  which  are  not  unfre- 
quently  precipitated  bodily  into  the  stream,  by  the 
undermining  currents  of  the  river,  or  hang  from  the 
new  fallen  alluvial  banks,  with  their  branches  dip- 
ping into  the  stream.  Perched  upon  these,  we  in- 
variably find  the  heron,  and  king-fisher,  who,  with 
motionless  anxiety,  watch  for  their  finny  prey.  The 
eagle,  and  the  hawk,  choose  a  more  elevated  seat  to 
watch  for  their  food,  while  the  buzzard,  with  an  ea- 
sy wing,  is  continually  sailing  through  the  air,  ea- 
gerly scanning  the  lower  plains,  for  its  favourite  car- 
rion. The  white  pelican,  is  also,  very  frequent,  along 
this  part  of  the  river,  but  is  always  found  upon  the 
point  of  some  naked  sand  bar,  which  I  conclude  to 
be  the  most  favourable  spot  for  taking  its  food.  The 
duck,  and  the  goose,  appear  to  be  the  only  species 
of  water-fowl,  which  are  always  in  motion,  and  it  is 
rare  to  see  them  seated  upon  the  shore,  but, 
this  may  be  less  the  result  of  their  superior  activity, 
and  natural  sprightliness,  than  the  strong  necessity 
of  continually  searching  for  those  aquatic  plants, 
which  constitute  their  favourite  food.  The  pigeon, 
the  snipe,  the  wild  turkey,  the  raven,  and  the  jay, 
are  also  common  along  this  part  of  the  Mississippi, 
and  contribute,  by  their  appearance,  to  enliven  and 
diversify  the  scene.  Nor,  is  it  uncommon,  during  the 
heats  of  noon,  to  behold  the  savage,  reclining  be- 
neath the  grateful  shade  of  the  oak,  upon  some 
breezy  knoll  ot  the  contiguous  bluff — 


357 

u  Nor  feels  for  aught,  nor  has  a  wish  that  goes 
Beyond  his  present  succour  and  repose. — 
To-day's  support  employs  to-day  his  thought, 
To-morrow's  meal  must  be  to-morrow  sought. '* 

Satisfied  with  present  competence,  he  thinks  ncrt 
of  the  long,  and  dreary  winter,  which  shall  soon  de- 
form his  native  sky — of  the  pinching  hunger,  which 
shall  await  his  improvidence — of  the  precariousiiess, 
of  the  chace — of  the  rapid  diminution  of  his  tribes, 
before  the  resistless  march  of  European  population- 
of  the  evils,  they  have  introduced  into  it;  and  of  its 
slow,  certain,  and  total  annihilation :  but,  dreaming 
of  the  beauty  of  his  native  mountains,  envies  not 
eastern  monarchs  their  possessions,  while  all  his 
bliss — all  his  hopes — and  all  his  ambition,  are  cen- 
tered in  the  unrestrained  enjoyment  of  liberty,  and 
the  land  of  his  forefathers. 

'"  Dear  is  that  shed  to  which  their  souls  conform, 
K  And  dear  the  hill  that  lifts  them  to  the  storm  ; 
"  And  as  a  babe,  when  scaring  sounds  molest, 
"  Clings  close,  and  closer,  to  the  mother's  breast — 
a  So  the  loud  torrent,  and  the  whirlwind's  roar, 
*'  But  binds  them  to  their  native  mountains  more." 

Goldsmith. 


CHAPTER  XIII. 
O  U  RJV  E  Y, 


FROM    PRAIRIE    BU  CHIEN,    BY  THE    OUSCOJVSLXG  AjXI) 
FOX  RIVERS,  TO  GREEN  BAY. 


LXXVIII.  Day.— {August  9th.) 

JIURING  our  stay  at  Prairie  du  Chien,  we  observ- 
ed a  remarkable  instance  of  natural  deformity,  in 
the  person  of  an  Indian,  who  had  just  come  in  from 
the  interior.  This  singular  being,  was  provided  by 
nature,  with  double  the  usual  number  of  joints  in 
each  arm,  and  leg,  by  which  means,  he  was  render- 
ed, in  some  measure,  helpless,  and  unable  either  to 
stand,  or  walk.  By  an  effort  of  savage  ingenuity, 
however,  this  redundancy  of  joints,  was  made  the 
means  of  procuring  locomotion,  by  coiling  his  legs 
in  a  large  wooden  bowl,  in  which  he  rolled  himself 
along,  over  a  smooth  surface,  with  considerable  fa- 
cility. The  powers  of  his  mind,  were  not,  however, 
in  the  least  affected,  by  this  corporeal  degradation, 
but  appeared,  on  the  contrary,  vigorous,  and  supe- 
rior to  the  generality  of  his  tribe.  He  spoke  seve- 
ral Indian  tongues,  and  conversed  fluently  in  the 
French  language,  as  it  is  generally  spoken  by  the 
Canadian  voyageurs,  and  northwest  traders ;  and  his 


359 

whole  countenance  bespoke  intelligence,  and  mental 
activity. 

We  left  Prairie  du  Chien  at  half  past  ten  in  the 
morning,  and  entering  the  Ousconsing  three  miles 
below,  ascended  that  river  eighteen  miles.  It  is  a 
wide,  and  shallow  stream,  running  over  a  bed  of 

sand — with    transparent   waters and    chequered 

with  numerous  small  islands,  and  sand  bars.  It  has 
an  alluvial  valley,  of  a  mile  in  width,  bounded  on 
each  side  by  calcareous  hills — which  frequently,  pre- 
sent naked  precipices  towards  the  river. — The  pre- 
dominating trees,  are  oak,  elm,  and  maple. 

LXXIX.  Day. — {August  \Oth.) — Quitting  our  en- 
campment at  five  o'clock,  A.  M.  we  ascended  the 
river  thirty-six  miles.  During  this  distance,  it  is 
joined  by  a  small  tributary  from  the  right  bank,  call- 
ed Blue  river.  It  is  a  stream  of  small  size— -with 
clear  water — and  originates  in  highlands,  near  the 
banks  of  Rock  river.  No  change  is  observed  in 
the  appearance  of  the  Ousconsing — there  is  no  per- 
ceptible diminution,  either  in  the  width  of  the  river, 
or  its  valley.  The  bluffs,  continue  to  bound  the  ri- 
ver on  both  sides.  The  weather  was  fair  and  warm 
during  the  fore  part  of  the  day,  but  suddenly  cloud- 
ed up,  in  the  afternoon,  when  we  had  a  shower  of 
rain,  attended  with  thunder  and  lightning. 

LXXX.  Day. — (August  Wth.) — On  ascending  the 
river  sixteen  miles,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  Pine 
river,  a  stream  of  thirty  yards  wide,  entering  on 
the  left,  at  the  junction  of  which,  there  is  a  village  of 
Winnebagoes,  of  four  lodges.  Here  we  stopped  a 
few  moments.    The  Indians  appeared  friendly,  and 


360 

presented  us  some  dried  venison : — we  engaged  two 
of  them  to  pilot  us  up  the  river,  to  the  portage,  and 
make  some  mineral  discoveries.  The  navigation  of 
the  river  above,  is  considerably  impeded  by  sand 
bars,  and  small  islands,  and  some  time  is  lost,  in 
searching  for  the  proper  channel.  The  water  is 
shallow — clear — and  very  warm. — The  current  is 
strong,  although  without  any  falls  or  rapids.  Nu- 
merous muscle,  and  other  shells,  are  strewed  along 
the  sandy  shores,  some  of  which  are  very  large,  oth- 
ers, exceedingly  small,  with  transparent  shells,  and 
colours  beautifully  variegated. — The  plover,  wild 
goose,  king-fisher,  and  small,  yellow  bird,  are  seen 
along  this  part  of  the  river.  The  river  bluffs  con- 
tinue, sometimes  receding  a  mile  or  two  from  the  ri- 
ver, and  giving  place  to  bottom  lands,  and  patches 
of  prairie,  then  shutting  in  close  upon  the  water's 
edge.  In  the  course  of  the  day,  we  overtook  a 
barge  and  Indian  canoe,  which  had  been  despatch- 
ed in  advance,  from  the  Prairie,  on  the  eighth,  un- 
der the  charge  of  Mr.  Chase.  We  encamped  at 
twilight,  at  the  head  of  the  Spruce  Cliannel,  having 
ascended  the  river  thirty-four  miles. 

LXXXI.  Day. — (August  12/A.) — Proceeded  up  the 
river  at  twenty  minutes  before  five — weather  fair. — 
Ascended  forty  miles,  and  encamped  on  a  sand  bar, 
on  the  left  shore.  Highlands  continue. — Trees, 
oak,  elm,  and  maple.  Alluvial  bottom  lands  :  and 
prairies,  occasionally,  on  either  shore.  Rock  stra- 
ta, compact  lime  stone,  reposing  upon  white  sand- 
stone.    A  shower  of  rain,  at  six  in  the  evening. 


301 

LXXXII.  D.w.— (Jurist  13//*.)— Ascended  thirty- 
eight  miles. 

LXXXIH.  Day.— -(August  \Ath.~)—A  rain  storm  af- 
ter twelve  o'clock  at  night — cleared  off  at  seven  in 
the  morning,  when  we  embarked,  and  reached  the 
portage  between  the  Ousconsing  and  Fox  rivers,  at 
one  o'clock  P.  M. — distance  sixteen  miles.  Cross- 
ed over  the  portage,  and  encamped  on  the  head  of 
Fox  river. 

The  entire  distance  from  the  Prairie  du  Chien  to  the 
portage  of  the  Ousconsing,  is  one  hundred  and 
eighty-two  miles,  in  which  distance  the  navigation 
is  not  impeded  with  a  fall  or  rapid,  but  the  water 
runs  with  great  velocity,  and  may  be  estimated  to  * 
have  a  mean  descent  of  two  feet  per  mile.  This  is 
equal  to  the  Mississippi,  below  the  junction  of  the 
Missouri.  We  were  five  days  engaged  in  the  as- 
cent, without,  however,  devoting  much  time  to  the 
examination  of  the  contiguous  country.  The  width 
of  the  river  is  eight  hundred  yards  at  its  mouth,  and 
decreases  to  about  four  hundred  at  the  portage. — A 
chain  of  limestone  hills  extends  from  the  Mississip- 
pi, on  each  shore,  to  within  twenty  miles  of  the 
portage,  where  it  ceases  on  the  south  shore,  but  con- 
tinues on  the  north,  receding,  however,  a  consider- 
able distance  from  the  river.  This  tract  is  called 
the  Highlands  of  the  Ousconsing.  In  passing 
through  it,  the  river  presents  a  number  of  interest- 
ing and  picturesque  views,  the  most  striking  of  which 
is  that,  of  the  Sugar  Loaf  mountain,  and  La  Petit 
Grist  The  geological  character  of  this  tract  of 
country,  presents  little  variety.     A  dark  grey  com* 

46 


362 

pact  limestone,  forms  the  surface  rock,  and  is  bed- 
ded on  white  sandstone.  The  former,  is,  however, 
so  far  as  observed,  destitute  of  organic  remains, 
and  perhaps,  the  latter,  might  be  considered  as  a 
variety  of  grauwacke.  There  are  some  scattered 
lumps  of  iron  ore  upon  the  hills,  and  a  lead  mine  is 
reported  to  exist  upon  the  south  shore,  about  eighty 
miles  east  of  the  Mississippi.  The  Indians  also  re- 
port that  they  have  frequently  found  copper  and 
silver  upon  this  river,  but  the  guides  who  accom- 
panied us,  with  a  pro.nise  to  discover  the  localities 
of  these  minerals,  either  amused  us  with  idle  tales, 
or  avoided  conducting  us  to  the  places,  where  these 
metals  may,  in  reality,  exist ;  by  stating  a  great  many 
difficulties  and  excuses.  A  Winnebago  Indian,  who 
had  promised  to  bring  in  a  specimen  of  silver  ore, 
presented,  with  great  ceremony,  to  Governor  Cass, 
some  small  detached  folia  of  mica,  and  the 
same  substance,  in  its  natural  association  in  granitic 
rock.  This  shows,  what  little  reliance  can  be  pla- 
ced upon  Indian  information,  with  respect  to  mine- 
ralogy, even  when  their  veracity  is  not  called  in 
question.  It  would  be  well,  however,  if,  in  regard 
to  the  mineral  kingdom,  only,  this  people  had  not 
yet  adopted  the  maxim,  that  "  all  is  not  gold  that 
glitters." 

The  Ousconsing  is  ascended  in  canoes  ninety 
miles  above  the  portage,  and  is  connected  by 
short  portages,  with  the  Ontonagon,  and  Mon- 
treal rivers  of  Lake  Superior.  The  largest  wild 
animals  now  found  along  its  banks,  are  the  deer, 
the  bear,  and  the  fox.  The  elk,  and  buffalo,  have 
been  driven  off  many  years  ago.  Neither  is  it  a  fa-; 
vourite  resort  of  water  fowl,  which  is  probably  ow- 
ing to  the  fact,  that  it  does  not  afford  the  wild  rice,  a( 


3G3 

least,  in  any  considerable  quantity.  Geese  and 
ducks  occasionally  alight  in  it,  on  their  migratory 
journies,  but  do  not  tarry  long.  We  observed  the 
snipe,  plover,  grouse,  king-fisher,  wild  turkey,  and 
some  smaller  birds.  Two  kinds  of  rattlesnake  are 
also  found  along  its  banks.  The  first,  which  in- 
habits the  hills,  is  the  cro talus  horridus,  and  at- 
tains a  large  size.  1  killed  one,  in  coming  up  the 
river,  measuring  four  feet  in  length,  and  furnished 
with  nine  ratlles.  The  Indians,  on  opening  it,  took 
out  eleven  young.  The  other  variety  is  small,  sel- 
dom exceeding  eighteen  inches  in  length,  and  is 
confined  to  the  lowlands  and  prairies.  This  is  call- 
ed the  prairie  rattlesnake,  and  is  common  about  the 
portage. 

This  river  was  formerly  inhabited  by  the  Sacs  and 
Foxes,  who  raised  large  quantities  of  corn  and 
beans  upon  its  fertile  shores,  but  they  were  driven 
off  by  the  Chippeways,  instigated  by  the  French. — 
It  is  now  possessed  by  the  Winnebagoes,  a  savage, 
and  blood-thirsty  tribe,  who  came,  many  years  ago, 
from  the  south,  and  are  related  to  some  of  the  Mex- 
ican tribes.  Their  largest  village,  upon  this  stream, 
is  three  or  four  miles  above  the  portage,  and  con- 
sists of  forty  lodges. 

The  length  of  the  portage,  from  the  Ousconsing, 
to  the  Fox  river,  is  a  mile  and  a  half,  across  a 
level  prairie.  There  is  a  good  waggon  road,  and  a 
Frenchman  lives  on  the  spot,  who  keeps  a  number 
of  horses  and  cattle,  for  the  transportation  of  bag- 
gage, for  which  twenty-five  cents  per  hundred  weight, 
is  demanded.  Such  is  the  little  difference  in  the  level 
of  the  two  streams,  that  during  high-water,  canoes 
frequently  pass,  loaded,  acro^  the  lowest  parts  of 


obi 

the  prairie,  from  one  river  to  the  other.      The  por 
tage  is  very  muddy  in  the  spring  and  fall,  being  over 
a  rich  alluvial  soil,  but  we  found  it  dry,  and  pleas 
ant. 

LXXXiV.  Daw— (August  15th.)— We  embarked 
at  the  head  of  Fox  river,  at  half  past  three  in  the 
afternoon,  and  descended  fifteen  miles  to  the  Forks. 
The  river  in  this  distance,  is  about  twenty  yards 
wide,  but  often  expands  into  little  lakes,  or  ponds, 
and  is  extremely  devious  in  its  course.  It  is  filled 
with  wild  rice,  which  so  chokes  up  the  channel, 
that  it  is  difficult  to  find  a  passage  through  it.  The 
shores  slope  up  gently  from  the  water's  edge,  and 
are  covered  with  scattering  oaks,  and  prairie  grass, 
but  they  do  not  attain  much  elevation,  and  disclose 
no  rock  strata. 

LXXXV  Dw.—iJugust  IGth.)— Thirty  miles  be- 
low its  forks,  the  Fox  river  expands  into  a  lake, 
called  Lac  du  Bocuf,  which  is  nine  miles  in  length, 
by  one  and  a  half  in  width,  and  abounds  in  wild 
rice.  Twelve  miles  lower,  the  river  expands  into 
another  lake,  called  Puckaway,  which  is  twelve 
miles  long,  by  two  in  width.  This  is  also  filled  with 
wild  rice,  and  rushes,  and  with  abundance  of  water 
fowl  in  the  season.  There  is  a  village  of  Puants 
or  Winnebagoes,  of  seven  or  eight  lodges,  on  the 
west  shore.  We  encamped  at  the  foot  of  this  lake, 
having  descended  the  river  sixty-three  miles.  The 
course  of  the  river  is  less  serpentine  than  about  its 
source,  but  the  channel  continues  to  be  filled  with 
wild  rice,  reeds,  and  bulrushes.  The  adjoining 
country  lies  in  gentle  slopes,  and  is  finely  diversified 


365 

with  woods  and  prairies.  It  appears  to  be  well 
adapted  to  the  raising  of  stock,  and  any  quantity  of 
grass  might  be  cut  on  the  prairies.  The  soil  is  of 
the  richest  kind,  and  is  capable  of  supporting  a 
dense  agricultural  population. 

LXXXVI.  Day.— {August  17th.)— Fox  river,  which 
has  scarcely  a  perceptible  current  above  Lake 
Puckaway,  has  a  visible  one,  below  it,  where  its 
mean  velocity  may  be  reckoned  at  one  miie  per  hour. 
A  few  miles  below  our  encampment,  we  passed  three 
Winnebago  lodges  on  the  right  bank,  and  a  short 
distance  lower  down,  five  more  on  the  left.  The 
forest  here  becomes  heavier,  and  approaches  nearer 
the  margin  of  the  river,  and  among  its  trees,  we  here 
first  noticed  the  poplar  and  the  birch.  The  river 
De  Loup  joins  the  Fox  river,  twenty-eight  miles  be- 
low Puckaway  lake,  and  there  is  a  grass-covered 
hili  near  the  point  of  junction,  called  La  Butte  de 
Jllort,  or  the  hillock  of  the  dead,  where  the  Fox  na- 
tion were  nearly  exterminated  many  years  ago,  by 
the  French  and  Chippeways.  It  is  now  the  site  of  a 
small  Winnebago  village,  and  affords  a  picturesque 
view  from  the  river.  We  encamped  seventeen 
leagues  below  this  spot,  on  the  left  shore,  having 
descended  the  river  seventy  miles. 

LXXXVII.  Day.— (August  nth.)— The  night  was 
remarkably  cold,  with  a  dense  fog  in  the  morning, 
and  we  now  first  enjoyed  an  exemption  from  the  at- 
tacks of  the  musquitoes.  We  embarked  at  half  past 
five,  A.  M. — wild  rice  continues  along  the  shores — 
the  stream  increases  in  width — no  rocks  in  situ — 
some  pebbles  and  detached  blocks  of  hornblende 


366 

granite,  and  limestone  along  the  shore — also,  an 
abundance  of  muscle  and  cockle  shells. — Trees, 
oak,  maple,  and  hickory. — Soil,  a  rich  alluvion. 

On  descending  fifteen  miles,  we  passed  the  mouth 
of  the  Menomonie  or  Wolf  river,  which  is  nearly  of 
equal  size  with  the  Fox,  and  is  noted  for  its  abundant 
production  of  wild  rice,  and  the  myriads  of  wild 
fowl,  that  resort  to  it,  at  certain  seasons.  Five  miles 
below  the  junction  of  these  streams,  we  entered 
Winnebago  lake,  at  ten  o'clock  in  the  morning. — 
This  is  a  handsome  sheet  of  clear  water,  twenty- 
four  miles  long,  by  ten  in  width.  It  receives  a  con- 
siderable tributary  on  the  south,  called  Crocodile  or 
Rice  river,  which  is  connected  by  means  of  a  short 
portage,  with  the  Rock  river  of  the  Mississippi. — 
Near  the  upper  end  of  this  lake,  there  is  a  village  of 
Winnebagoes,  of  ten  lodges,  and  another,  of  a  like 
number  of  lodges,  at  its  outlet.  There  is  also  a  vil- 
lage of  Menomonies,  of  sixty  souls,  on  the  south- 
ern shore,  about  half  way  between  the  lower  Puant 
village,  and  the  mouth  of  Crocodile  river.  The 
Fox  river,  where  it  issues  from  Winnebago  lake,  has 
a  rapid,  extending  a  mile  and  a  half,  over  which  the 
canoes  pass,  with  half  loads.  We  here  entrusted 
our  canoes  to  Indian  pilots,  and  proceeded  on  foot, 
to  the  termination  of  the  rapids.  Nine  miles  below, 
is  the  fall  of  the  grand  Konomee,  where  the  river 
lias  a  perpendicular  descent  of  five  feet.  Here  is  a 
portage  of  one  mile.  The  canoes  are  lifted  over 
the  falls,  and  conducted  to  the  place  of  embarka- 
tion below.  The  fall  is  over  a  ledge  of  limestone 
rock,  apparently  of  the  transition  class.  Some  cal- 
careous spar  is  found  imbedded.  The  entire  de- 
scent of  the  river  at  this  portage,  is  probably  fifteen 
feet.     We  encamped  at  the  foot  of  the  grand    Ko- 


367 

nomee,  some  time  after  dark,  having  progressed  al- 
together sixty  miles. 

LXXXVIII.  Day.— (Jugust  19/A.)— It  is  twelve 
miles  from  the  Grand  Konomee  to  the  falls  of  Ka- 
kalin,  during  which  distance,  the  bed  of  the  river 
is  full  of  fragments  of  rock,  with  shallow  water  ;  and 
may  be  considered  at  this  season,  as  one  contin- 
ued rapid.  The  river  is  skirted  by  alluvial  ridges, 
covered  with  white  and  black  oak,  and  prairie 
grass.  This  deposition  rests  upon  calcareous  rock, 
which  appears  in  horizontal  strata  at  the  water's 
edge,  and  in  the  bed  of  the  river.  It  contains  no 
imbedded  remains,  but,  on  breaking  it,  discloses  mi- 
nute cavities,  filled  with  calcareous  spar  in  a  variety 
of  crystalline  forms,  and  often  connected  with  iron 
pyrites.  Disseminated  through  the  rock,  are  also 
found,  small  particles  of  sulphuret  of  zinc,  or  black 
blende.  These  appearances  are  particularly  appa- 
rent, in  the  flat  rocks  at  the  Kakalin,  and  for  two  or 
three  miles  above,  on  the  north  shore.  In  descend- 
ing this  part  of  the  river,  we  cannot  avoid  remark- 
ing, the  immense  quantity  of  muscle  shells  scatter- 
ed along  the  shore,  and  sometimes  piled  up  in  the 
bed  of  the  stream.  On  enquiring  of  the  Indians  the 
cause  of  this  singular  appearance,  they  observed, 
that  the  muscle  is  the  common  food  of  the  muskrat, 
which  fishes  for  these  Crustacea,  in  the  bed  of  the 
stream,  and  carrying  them  to  the  mouth  of  its  hab-. 
itation,  upon  the  banks  of  the  river,  there  opens 
them  upon  one  spot.  We  reached  the  Kakalin  at 
noon,  and  found  it  the  site  of  a  Winnebago  village 
of  eleven  or  twelve  lodges,  and  two  hundred  souls. 
There  is  a  portage  of  one  mile,  across  a  level  prai- 


3«8 

rie,  and  the  river  has  an  aggregate  descent  of  twen- 
ty feet.  We  proceeded  eight  miles  below,  and  en- 
camped on  the  north  shore,  having  descended  but 
twenty  miles  during  the  day.  This  is  owing  to  the 
low  stage  of  the  water,  and  the  difficulties  of  the 
rapids,  which  have  been  such,  that  we  were  compel- 
led to  leave  our  barge  upon  the  rocks,  between  the 
rapids  of  the  Konomec  and  the  Kakalin. 

LXXXIX.  Day.— (August,  20th.)— A  heavy  fog 
in  the  morning,  prevented  us  from  quitting  our  en- 
campment until  seven  o'clock. — Six  miles  below,  we 
passed  the  rapids  of  the  little  Kakalin,  which,  how- 
ever, oppose  no  serious  obstacle  to  the  navigation 
of  the  river,  on  the  descent.  Here,  we  found  a  small 
party  of  United  States  soldiers,  who  were  engaged 
in  preparing  the  foundation  for  a  saAv  mill,  which  is 
to  be  erected  at  that  spot  for  the  accommodation  of 
the  garrison,  and  settlement  at  Green  Bay.  There 
is  another  small  rapid,  seven  miles  below,  called 
Rock  rapid,  from  which  it  is  five  more  to  the  garri- 
son, where  we  arrived  at  one  o'clock  P.  M.  The 
settlement  of  Green  Bay  commences  at  the  little 
Kakalin,  twelve  miles  above  the  fort ;  and  is  very 
compact,  from  the  Rock  rapid.  Here,  we  are  first 
presented  with  a  view  of  the  fort ;  and  nothing  can 
exceed  the  beauty  of  the  intermediate  country — 
chequered  as  it  is,  with  farm  houses,  fences,  culti- 
vated fields,  the  broad  expanse  of  the  river — the 
bannered  masts  of  the  vessels  in  the  distant  bay, 
and  the  warlike  array  of  military  barracks,  camps, 
and  parades.  This  scene  burst  suddenly  into  view, 
and  no  combination  of  objects  in  the  physiognomy 
of  a  country,  could  be  more  happily  arranged,  af- 


369 

terso  long  a  sojournment  in  the  wilderness,  to  recall 
at  once  to  the  imagination,  the  most  pleasing  recol- 
lections of  civilized  life;  and  indeed,  the  circum- 
stances of  our  return,  would  have  produced  a  high 
degree  of  exhilaration  ;  without  the  additional  ex- 
citements of  military  music,  which  now  saluted  our 
ears,  and  the  peals  of  artillery  which  hid  us  wel- 
come to  the  fort. 

The  settlement  of  Green  Bay  is  one  of  ancient 
standing,  having  been  first  begun  by  the  French 
about  the  year  1670.  It  now  consists  of  sixty  dwel- 
ling houses,  and  five  hundred  inhabitants,  exclusive 
of  the  garrison.  There  are  seventy  of  the  inhabit- 
ants enrolled  as  militia  men,  and  it  is  said  fifty  more 
will  be  added  during  the  ensuing  year,  who  are 
now  subject  to  military  duty.  The  inhabitants  are, 
with  few  exceptions,  French,  who  have  intermar- 
ried with  Indian  women,  and  are  said  generally,  to 
be  indolent,  gay,  intemperate,  and  illiterate;  but 
I  cannot  speak  from  personal  observation.  They 
are  represented  to  have  been  subservient  to  the  in- 
terests of  the  British,  during  the  late  war.  This  set- 
tlement is  now  the  seat  of  justice  for  Brown  coun- 
ty, in  the  territory  of  Michigan,  and  the  ordinary 
courts  of  law  are  established. 

The  tort  is  situated  on  a  handsome  grassy  plain, 
on  the  north  bank  of  Fox  river,  near  the  point  of  its 
entrance  into  Green  Bay.  It  consists  of  a  range  of 
log  barracks,  facing  three  sides  of  a  square  parade, 
and  surrounded  by  a  stockade  of  timber,  thirty  feet 
high,  with  block  houses  at  the  angles.  The  whole 
is  white  washed,  and  presents  a  neat  military  appear- 
ance.    It  is  at  present  garrisoned  by  three  hundred 

47 


370 

men,  under  Captain  Whistler,  who  has  the  tempora- 
ry command  of  the  post,  during  the  absence  of  Colo- 
nel J  L.  Smith.  There  are  also  about  three  hundred 
infantry,  in  cantonments,  at  Camp  Smith,  three 
miles  above  fort  Brown,  on  the  south  side  of  the 
river,  where  preparations  are  making  to  erect  a  per- 
manent fortification  of  stone,  during  the  ensuing  year. 
The  site  chosen  for  the  work  is  extremely  beautiful, 
airy,  and  commanding  A  party  of  men  have  been  em- 
ployed during  the  summer,  in  quarrying  the  building 
stone,  near  the  Rock  rapid.  On  visiting  this  quarry, 
I  found  it  to  consist  of  a  bluish-grey  limestone,  semi- 
crystalline  in  its  structure,  and  containing  small  dis- 
seminated masses  of  blende,  sometimes  in  cavities 
along  with  calcareous  spar,  and  iron  pyrites. 

XC.  Day. — (August  2lst.) — Fox  river  has  been 
characterized  by  one  of  the  oldest  writers  on  Amer- 
ican topography,*  as  "  a  muddy  stream,  abounding 
equally  in  rocks  and  savannahs,  and  inclosed  with  a 
steep  coast,  and  frightful  rocks,"  but  these  traits,  al- 
though generally  characteristic  of  the  river,  are  not 
all  applicable  to  any  individual  sections  of  it;  for 
wherever  its  banks  are  muddy  or  marshy,  there  are 
no  rock  strata,  and  in  passing  over  those  shallows, 
where  the  latter  crop  out,  particularly  in  a  birch- 
bark  canoe,  and  during  the  summer  season,  when 
the  water  is  lowest,  the  term  "  frightful"  will  con- 
vey a  just  idea  of  the  dangers  and  difficulties  of  the 
navigation. 

The  entire  length  of  this  river  is  two  hundred  and 
sixty  miles,  fifty  of  which  consist  of  lakes.     Its  mos* 

*La  Hontan,  p.  Ill,  vol.  1. 


371 

extreme  northwestern    tributary  is   the   outlet    ot 
Lac  Vaseux,  which   unites  with  the  portage  branch, 
after  running  thirty  miles  in  a  southeasterly  direc- 
tion.    This  point  is  called  the  Forks  of  the  river, 
and  is  fifteen  miles  distant  from  the  portage  of  the 
Ousconsing.     It  is  a  hundred  and  ninety  miles  from 
thence  to  the  outlet  of  Winnebago  lake,  in  which 
distance  it  is  swelled  by  the  Menomonie,  Deloup,  and 
several  smaller  streams,  and  expands  into  a  number 
of  little  lakes,  the  largest  of  which  are  Puckaway 
and  Du  Bceuf.     This  is  the  favourite  region  of  wild 
rice,  and  water  fowl,  and  during  all   this   distance, 
the  river  has  neither  a  fall  or  a  rapid,  but  runs  with 
so  still  a  current,  that  it  has  scarcely  a  perceptible 
motion.     Neither  are  the  rock  strata  upon  which  the 
soil  is  based,  at  any  spot  visible  ;  but  as  far  as  the 
eye  can  reach,  the  country   presents  a  beautiful  va- 
riety   of  woods  and  prairies — long    sloping    hills, 
which  are  crowned  with  copses  of  oak,  and  exten- 
sive vallies,  covered  with  a  luxuriant  growth  of  the 
wild  rice,  the  scirpus  lucustris,   and  other  aquatic 
plants.      Through  such  a  valley,  the  Fox  river  pur- 
sues its  broad,  still,  and  devious  course,  and  is  so 
prolific  in  the  various  species  of  water  plants,  that 
often,  where  it  is  a  mile  in  width,  there  is  scarce 
open  space  enough  in  its  centre,  to  allowr  the  pas- 
sage of  a  canoe ;    but  it   has   every   where  a  fine 
depth  of  water,  and  is  free  from  stagnation.     Here, 
as  the  rice  begins  to  ripen,  the  various  tribes  of  wa- 
ter fowl   instinctively  repair,  to  dispute,  with  the 
savages,  their  claims  to  the  harvest,  and  are  killed 
in  such  numbers,  that  the  Indians,  while  the  season 
lasts,  are  not  put  to  the  trouble  of  hunting  for  any 
other  description  of  animal  food.     The  region  is  al- 


372 

so  highly  favourable  to  the  innumerable  tribes  of 
fresh  water  crustacae,  reptiles,  and  amphibious 
quadrupeds.  Among  the  latter,  the  otter,  mink, 
and  muskrat  are  still  common;  but  the  beaver  and 
martin,  once  so  numerous,  are  becoming  very  rare. 
The  soil  is  every  where  of  the  most  fertile  kind. 

On  approaching  the  foot  of  Winnebago  lake,  we 
perceive  a  ridge  of  highlands  running  parallel  with 
its  eastern  shore,  and  apparently  barricading  the 
passage  of  the  river  in  that  direction,  which,  as  if 
conscious  of  the  obstruction,  first  turns  to  the  north, 
but  gradually  winds  about  to  the  east,  and  south 
east,  and  passing  through  this  ridge  is  bordered 
with  elevated,  and,  in  some  places,  rocky  banks, 
and  the  channel  is  broken  by  the  Konomee  falls, 
and  by  the  Winnebago,  the  little,  and  grand  Kaka- 
lin,  and  the  Rock  rapids.  The  distance  occupied 
by  these  obstructions,  (from  the  outlet  of  Winnebago 
lake  to  the  Rock  rapids.)  is  forty  miles,  and  the  na- 
vigation of  this  part  of  it,  during  the  summer  season, 
is  attended  with  difficulty  and  fatigue. 

This  is  the  section  of  the  river  "  inclosed  with  a 
steep  coast  and  frightful  rocks,"  but  the  latter  pre- 
sent no  formidable  obstacle  to  the  navigation,  during 
the  spring  and  fall ;  and  the  coast,  although  elevated 
two  or  three  hundred  feet,  is  lar  from  being  sterile, 
or  mountainous.  The  soil  is  a  red  loam,  supporting 
a  heavy  forest  of  oak,  pine,  hickory,  and  maple,  and 
interspersed  with  occasional  patches  of  highland 
prairie.  This  part  of  the  river  has  very  little  wild 
rice,  but  is  abundantly  stored  with  white  and  black 
bass,  carp,  pike,  suckers,  and  other  fish;  and  is  re- 
sorted to  by  the  Indians  with  a  certain  prospect  of 
sustenance,  during  a  part  of  the  year. 


373 

From  the  Rock  rapid  to  Green  Bay,  a  distance 
©f  six  miles,  the  river  flows  with  a  smooth  current — 
is  more  than  a  mile  wide,  and  is  joined,  in  the  inter- 
mediate distance,  by  two  considerable  streams,  call- 
ed Devil  and  Duck  rivers,  the  former  of  which  en- 
ters on  the  south  shore,  directly  opposite  the  site  of 
old  fort  Le  Bay. 

There  is  perhaps  no  stream,  of  secondary 
magnitude,  in  the  northwestern  parts  of  Amer- 
ica, which  affords  so  many  facilities  to  savage 
life,  or  which  actually  supports  so  great  a  sa- 
vage population,  as  Fox  river;  and  taking  into  con- 
sideration the  great  fertility  and  extent  of  its  tillable 
soil — the  rural  beauty  of  the  country — its  advan- 
tageous position  for  commerce,  either  with  the  north 
or  south,  and  its  salubrious  and  delightful  climate, 
it  will  probably  hereafter,  when  the  Indian  tribes 
yield  before  an  industrious  emigration,  support  one 
of  the  most  compact,  extensive,  and  valuable  agri- 
cultural settlements  in  the  Michigan  territory. 

The  junction  of  this  river  with  Green  Bay,  affords 
one  of  the  most  favourable  positions  for  witnessing 
a  phenomenon,  which  has  attracted  the  attention  of 
travellers  from  the  earliest  times,  without,  however, 
having,  as  yet,  elicited  any  very  satisfactory  explica- 
tion of  an  apparently  reversed  order  of  nature.  I 
allude  to  the  appearances  of  a  regular  tide  at  this 
place,  but  in  so  doing,  it  is  more  with  a  view  of  pre- 
senting an  outline  of  those  facts  which  have  been 
observed  by  others,  than  of  entering  into  any  disqui- 
sition on  the  subject  myself. 

In  the  year  1689,  the  Baron  La  Hontan,  on  reach- 
ing Green  Bay,  remarks,  that  where  the  Fox  river 
is  discharged  into  the  bay,  he  observed  the  water 
of  the  lake  swell  three  feet  high,  in  the  space  of 


374 

hverfty-four  hours, and  decrease  as  much  in  the  same 
length  of  time.  He  also  noticed  a  contrariety,  and 
connection  of  currents  in  the  narrow  strait  which 
connects  lakes  Huron  and  Michigan,  which  he  says, 
4t  are  so  strong,  that  they  sometimes  suck  in  the  fish- 
ing nets,  although  they  are  two  or  three  leagues  off. 
In  some  seasons,  it  so  falls  out,  that  the  currents 
run  three  days  eastward — two  days  to  the  west — 
one,  to  the  south — and  four  to  the  northward;  some- 
times more,  and  sometimes  less.  The  cause  of  this 
diversity  of  currents  could  never  be  fathomed,  for 
in  a  calm,  they  will  run  in  the  space  of  one  day,  to 
all  points  of  the  compass,  without  any  limitation  of 
time,  so  that  the  decision  of  this  matter  must  be  left 
to  the  disciples  of  Copernicus."* 

In  1721,  Charlevoix  remarks  similar  appearances, 
but  treats  the  subject  with  unusual  brevity,  evidently, 
from  the  difficulties  which  occurred  to  him,  in  giving 
any  satisfactory  explanation.  He  supposes  lakes  Hu- 
ron and  Michigan  to  be  alternately  discharged  into 
each  other  through  the  strait  of  Michilimackinac, 
and  mentions  the  fact,  that  in  passing  that  strait, 
his  canoe  was  carried  with  the  current  against  a 
head  wind.  In  another  place,  in  speaking  of  an  appa- 
rent flux  and  reflux  of  the  lakes,  he  supposes  that  it 
was  "  owing  to  the  springs  at  the  bottom  of  the  lakes, 
and  to  the  shock  of  their  currents,  with  those  of  the 
rivers,  which  fall  into  them  from  all  sides,  and  thus 
produce  those  intermitting  motions.! 

In  1819,  Captain  Henry    Whiting,  of  the  United 

*La  Honlan's  voyages  to  Canada. 
/Charlevoix's  Journals  vol.  1.  p.  314. 


375 

States  army,  made  a  series  of  observations  during 
seven  or  eight  days,  upon  these  oceanic  appear- 
ances, which  serve  to  shew,  that  the  water  at  Green 
Bay,  has  a  rise  and  fall  daily,  but  that  it  is  irre- 
gular as  to  the  precise  period  of  flux  and  reflux,  anl 
also  as  to  the  height  it  attains. 

On  reaching  Green  Bay,  during  the  present  expe- 
dition, Governor  Cass  directed  one  of  the  men,  to 
drive  a  stake  at  the  water's  edge,  upon  the  banks  of 
Fox  river,  at  the  spot  of  our  encampment,  which 
was  a  mile  above  its  discharge  into  the  bay,  and  to 
mark  the  height  of  the  water.  It  appeared,  from 
frequently  inspecting  this  gauge,  during  the  period 
of  our  stay,  which  was,  however,  but  two  days,  that 
there  was  a  considerable  rise  and  fall  of  the  water — 
that  there  was  a  difference  as  to  the  time  consumed 
in  passing  from  its  minimum  to  its  maximum  height, 
and  that  although  it  arose  against  a  strong  wind  blow- 
ing out  of  the  river,  the  rise,  under  these  circum- 
stances was  less,  than  in  ordinary  cases. 

From  all  these  circumstances,  there  is  reason  to 
conclude,  that  a  well  conducted  series  of  experi- 
ments, will  prove,  that  there  are  no  regular  tides  in 
the  lakes,  at  least,  that  they  do  not  ebb  and  flow- 
twice  in  twenty-four  hours,  like  those  of  the  ocean — 
that  the  oscillating  motion  of  the  waters  is  not  at- 
tributable to  planetary  attraction — that  it  is  very  va- 
riable as  to  the  periods  of  its  flux  and  reflux,  depend- 
ing upon  the  levels  of  the  several  lakes,  their  length, 
depth,  direction,  and  conformation — upon  the  pre- 
valent winds  and  temperatures,  and  upon  other  ex- 
traneous causes,  which  are  in  some  measure  varia- 
ble in  their  nature,  and  unsteady  in  their  operation. 

Lake  Michigan,  from  its  great  depth  of  water— 


376 

its  bleak  and  unguarded  shores— and  its  singular 
length  and  direction,  which  is  about  four  hundred 
miles  from  north  to  south,  appears  to  be  peculiarly 
exposed  to  the  influence  of  the  currents  of  the  at- 
mosphere, to  whose  agency  we  may  attribute,  at 
least  in  part,  the  appearances  of  a  tide,  which  are 
more  striking  upon  the  shores  of  this,  than  of  any 
of  the  other  great  lakes.  The  meteorological  ob- 
servations which  have  been  made,  in  the  Transalle- 
ghanicm  states,  indicate  the  winds  to  prevail,  either 
north  or  south,  through  the  valley  of  the  Mississip- 
pi ;  but  seldom  across  it,  so  that  the  surface  of  this 
lake,  would  be  constantly  exposed  to  agitation,  from 
the  atmosphere.  These  winds  would  almost  inces- 
santly operate,  to  drive  the  waters  through  the  nar- 
row strait  of  Michilimackinac,  either  into  lake 
Huron  or  lake  Michigan,  until,  by  their  natural  ten- 
dency to  an  equilibrium,  the  waters  thus  pentt 
would  re-act,  after  attaining  a  certain  height,  against 
the  current  of  the  most  powerful  winds,  and  thus  keep 
up  an  alternate  flux  and  reflux,  which  would  always 
appear  more  sensibly  in  the  extremities  and  bays  of 
the  two  lakes ;  and  with  something  like  regularity,  as 
to  the  periods  of  oscillation  ;  the  velocity  of  the 
water,  however,  being  governed  by  the  varying  de- 
grees of  the  force  of  the  winds. 

Something  analogous  to  this,  is  perceived  in  the 
Baltic,  which  has  no  regular  tides,  and  therefore 
experiences  no  difference  of  height,  except  when 
the  wind  blows  violently.  "  At  such  times,"  says 
Pennant,  "  there  is  a  current  in,  and  out  of  the  Bal- 
tic, according  to  the  points  they  blow  from,  which 
forces  the  water  through  the  sound,  with  the  veloci- 
ty of  two  or  three  Danish  miles  in  the  hour.     When 


377 

the  wind  blows  violently,  from  the  German  sea,  the 
water  rises  in  several  Baltic  harbours,  and  gives 
those  in  the  western  part,  a  temporary  saltness  ;  oth- 
erwise, the  Baltic  looses  that  other  property  of  a  sea, 
by  reason  of  the  want  of  tide,  and  the  quantity  of 
vast  rivers  it  receives,  which  sweeten  it  so  much, 
as  to  render   it,  in  many  places,  fit  for  domestic 


48 


CHAPTER  XiV. 
J  O  U  R  JV  E  F, 

FROM  GREEjY  BAY  TO  CHICAGO. 


XCI.   Day.— {August  22c/.) 

fjN  reaching  Green  Bay,  the  escort  of  soldiers, 
which  had  thus  far  accompanied  us,  and  the  Indians, 
who  were  taken  along  as  hunters,  were  no  longer 
deemed  necessary,  either  to  our  sustenance  or  safety  ; 
and  the  former  were  ordered  to  join  their  respect- 
ive companies,  in  the  garrison,  while  the  latter  were 
furnished  with  a  canoe  and  provisions,  to  proceed, 
at  their  own  convenience,  to  their  homes,  on  the 
eastern  shores  of  Lake  Michigan.  We  here,  also, 
embraced  the  opportunity  of  shipping  to  Detroit* 
our  collections,  in  the  different  departments  of  na- 
tural history,  and  a  part  of  our  personal  baggage, 
&c.  by  the  schooner  Decatur,  which  sailed  from  the 
bay  the  morning  after  our  arrival.  Thus  reduced 
in  numbers,  and  lightened  of  baggage,  the  expedi- 
tion was  still  further  diminished  by  detaching  a  ca- 
noe with  eight  men,  under  the  orders  of  Mr.  Trow- 
bridge, accompanied  by  Mr.  Doty,  and  Mr.  Chase, 
to  proceed  around  the  western  shores  of  Green 
Bay,  to  Michilimackinac;  while  the  remainder  of  the 
party,  still  numbering  two  canoes,  and  sixteen  men. 


379 

coasted  southerly  to  Chicago,  and  thence  around 
the  eastern  shores  of  Lake  Michigan,  to  Michili- 
mackinac. 

We  parted  from  Mr.  Trowbridge,  at  the  mouth  of 
Fox  river,  at   half  past  two  in  the  afternoon,  and 
proceeding  along  the  eastern   shore  of  Green  Bay 
twenty  five  miles  encamped  on  the  beach  at  twilight. 
The  shore  is  a  fertile  alluvion,  covered   with  su«:ar 
maple,  elm,  oak,  hemlock,  and  poplar.     The  bay  has 
a  sandy  beach,  and  transparent  waters.      In  a  short 
time  we  were  overtaken  by    the  Indians,  who  had 
recently   constituted  a  part  of  the  expedition,  and 
they  encamped  with  us.     In  the  course  of  the  eve- 
ning, they  endeavoured  to  point  out  to  us  by  moon- 
light, a  rocky  island,  at  three  or  four  miles  distance, 
in   which  there  is  a  large  cavern,  which  has  been 
employed,  by  their  tribes,  from  the  remotest  times, 
as  a  repository  for  the  dead.      They   appeared   to 
regard  the  spot,  as  the  monument  of  a  long  race  of 
heroes,  sages,  and  warriors,  whose  deeds  were  de- 
servedly  embalmed   in  the  memories  of  a  grateful 
posterity;    and  spoke  of  it  in  a  manner,  evincing  a 
high  spirit  of  ancestry  ;  and,  as  if,  like  the  castle  of 
Fredolfo,  it  borrowed  all  its  lustre  from  the  heroes 
whom  it  enshrined. 

"  It  hath  a  charm  the  stranger  knovveth  not — 

"It  is  the  dwelling  of  mine  ancestry  I 

"  There  is  an  inspiration  in  its  shade; 

"The  echoes  of  its  walls  are  eloquent, 

"  The  words  they  speak,  are  of  the  glorious  dead  3 

"  Its  tenants  are  not  human— they  are  more  ! 

"  The  stones  have  voices,  and  the  walls  do  live, 

"  It  is  the  house  of  memories  dearly  honoured, 

i(  By  many  a  long  trace  of  departed  glory." 

Matuiun. 


380 

XCIf.  Day.— -(diigust  2:d.)—lt  is  twenty  miles 
from  the  spot  of  our  encampment,  to  Sturgeon  bay, 
which  is  six  miles  wide  and  fifteen  in  length,  narrow* 
ing  gradually  towards  its  head,  where  it  receives  a 
small  stream.  From  this  spot,  there  is  a  portage  of 
three  pauses,  across  the  peninsula,  to  Lake  Michi- 
gan, where  we  arrived  at  an  early  hour  in  the  after- 
noon, but  were  prevented  from  embarking,  by  a 
strong  head  wind.  The  shore  of  the  lake  is  alluvi- 
al, with  a  sandy  beach,  strewed  w  ith  fragments  and 
pebbles  of  primitive  and  secondary  rocks,  among 
which  are  found  water  worn  masses  of  greasy,  and 
translucent  quartz,  chalcedony,  petrified  madre- 
pores, &c.  The  forest  trees  are  maple,  beech,  hem- 
lock, &c. 

XCIII.  Day. — (August  2ith.) — Following  around 
the  numerous  indentations  of  the  shore,  we  pro- 
gressed, in  a  general  direction  south,  forty  six  miles. 
In  the  course  of  the  day,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  a 
small  river,  flowing  from  the  west,  called  La  Four- 
che.  Among  the  forest  trees,  the  beech  (fagus  fcr- 
ruginea)  has  been  conspicuous :  oak,  pine,  poplar, 
birch,  hemlock,  and  maple,  have  also  been  abun- 
dant. The  banks  of  the  lake  are  a  sandy  alluvion, 
reposing  upon  transition  limestone,  which  is  occa- 
sionally seen  in  ledges,  elevated  two  or  three  feet 
above  the  water,  upon  the  prominent  points  of  the 
shore.  Petrifactions,  continue  to  be  found,  lying 
promiscuously  among  fragments  of  granite,  horn- 
blende, sienite,  quartz,  limestone,  frc. 

XIV.  Day. — (August  25th-) — Tn  coasting  forty  miles 
along  the  shore,  we  came  to  the  mouth  of  a  large 


381 

stream,  called  Manitowacky,  where  there  is  a  vil- 
lage of  Menomonie  Indians,  ot  six  lodges.  Five 
miles  beyond,  we  encamped  upon  the  beach,  ha- 
ving progressed  fifteen  leagues,  as  indicated  by  a 
lunar  observation.  The  country  consists  of  a  suc- 
cession of  sand  hills,  covered  with  pine.  The 
banks  of  the  lake  are  elevated  from  twenty  to  sixty 
feet,  with  a  broad  sand  beach,  strewed  with  gra- 
nitic and  calcareous  pebbles,  &c.  In  walking  along 
some  parts  of  the  shore,  I  observed  a  great  number 
of  the  skeletons  and  half  consumed  bodies  of  the 
pigeon,  which,  in  crossing  the  lake,  is  often  overta- 
ken by  severe  tempests,  and  compelled  to  alight 
upon  the  water,  and  thus  drowned,  in  entire  flocks, 
which  are  soon  thrown  up  along  the  shores.  This 
causes  the  shores  of  Lake  Michigan  to  be  visited  by 
vast  numbers  of  buzzards,  eagles,  and  other  birds 
of  prey.  The  Indians  also  make  use  of  these  pigeons, 
as  food,  when  they  are  first  driven  ashore,  preserving 
such  in  smoke,  as  they  have  not  immediate  occasion 
for.  Vast  broods  of  young  gulls,  are  also  destroyed 
during  the  violent  storms,  which  frequently  agitate 
this  lake. 

XCV.  Day. — (August  26th) — Progressed  forty- 
three  miles,  and  encamped,  some  time  after  dark, 
at  the  mouth  of  Milwacky  river.  This  is  a  stream 
of  sixty  yards  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  is  ascended  a 
hundred  miles  in  canoes,  being  connected  by  a 
short  portage,  with  the  Rock  river  of  the  Mississip- 
pi : — a  route  frequently  travelled  in  canoes,  by  the 
Pottowatomies  and  Menomonies.  There  are  two 
American  families,  and  a  village  of  Pottowatomies, 
at  its  mouth.      It  is  the  division  line  between  the 


3«2 

lands  of  the  Menomonies  and  Pottowatomies ;    the 
latter  claim  all  south  of  it. 

XCVI.  Day  -(dugust  27th.)—  \  head  wind  detain- 
ed us  a  considerable  part  of  the  day,  but  we  ad- 
vanced thirty-five  miles,  passing,  in  that  distance, 
the  Sac  and  hkeboigon  rivers.  Five  miles  south  of 
the  Mil  wacky,  there  is  found  a  bed  of  white  clay 
upon  the  shore  of  the  lake  ;  and  a  short  distance 
back,  in  a  prairie,  a  vein  of  red  oxide  of  iron,  both 
of  which  substances,  are  much  employed  by  the  In- 
dians, as  paints.  Fifteen  miles  further  south,  com- 
mences a  range  of  high  clay  bluffs,  covered  with 
sand,  on  the  verge  of  the  lake,  which  extend,  with 
occasional  depressions,  fifteen  or  twenty  miles.  At 
the  foot  of  this,  at  the  water's  edge,  there  is  a  large 
body  of  pyrites,  of  a  brass  yellow  colour — great 
weight,  and  crystallized  in  a  variety  of  regular  forms, 
the  most  common  of  which  is  a  cube,  truncated  at 
the  angles.  Some  of  these  crystals  are  six  or  eight 
pounds  in  weight,  with  an  imposing  metallic  lustre. 
They  occur  in  beds  in  a  tenacious  blue  clay,  from 
which  they  are  washed  by  the  waves,  and  left  in 
promiscuous  piles  along  the  shore,  where,  being  ex- 
posed to  attrition,  their  crystalline  forms  are  gradu- 
ally obliterated,  and  they  assume,  at  last,  the  shape 
of  spheroidal  and  globular  pebbles,  parting,  also,  in 
the  course  of  this  process,  with  their  natural  exter- 
nal lustre.  It  is  only  those  masses,  which  are  newly 
exposed,  that  present,  under  the  deceptive  glare  of 
polished  brass,  those  beautiful  geometrical  solids, 
which  sulphur,  in  its  various  associations  and  com- 
binations, in  the  mineral  kingdom,  so  frequently 
assumes.      At  the  spot  of  our  encampment,  thirty- 


383 

five  miles  south  of  Mil  wacky,  I  found  a  singular  li- 
quid mineral,  resembling  asphaltum,  contained  in 
cavities  in  a  calcareous  rock.  Where  it  had  suffer- 
ed a  natural  exposure  to  the  weather,  it  had  the 
colour  and  consistence  of  dried  tar,  but  on  obtain- 
ing a  fresh  fracture,  it  was  so  liquid  as  to  flow  from 
the  cavities,  and  presented  an  olive  brown  colour, 
inclining  to  black. 

XCVII.  Dm.— (August  28//L)— Proceeded  forty 
miles.  The  shore,  during  this  distance,  is  princi- 
pally prairie,  upon  which  the  oak  tree  predom- 
inates. In  some  instances,  there  are  hillocks  of 
sand,  either  wholly  destitute  of  vegetation,  or  cap- 
ped with  scattering  pines.  Among  the  detached 
rocks  of  the  shore,  are  found,  calcareous  spar,  crys- 
tallized quartz,  cacholong,  jasper,  toadstone.  &c. 

XCVIII.  Day.— (August  29th).— We  reached  Chi- 
cago at  five  o'clock  in  the  morning,  after  proceeding 
ten  miles.  The  village  consists  of  ten  or  twelve 
dwelling  houses,  with  an  aggregate  population,  of 
probably,  sixty  souls.  The  garrison  stands  on  the 
south  shore  of  Chicago  creek,  four  or  five  hundred 
yards  from  its  entrance  into  the  lake,  and,  like  the 
majority  of  our  frontier  posts,  consists  of  a  square 
stockade,  inclosing  barracks,  quarters  for  the  offi- 
cers, a  magazine,  provision  store,  &c.  and  defend- 
ed by  bastions  at  the  northwest,  and  southeast  an- 
gles. Tt  is  at  present  occupied  by  a  hundred  and 
sixty  men,  under  the  command  of  Captain  Brad- 
ley. 

The  village  of  Chicago  is  situated  in  the  state  of 
Illinois,  the  northern  boundary  line  of  which,  com- 


3U 

mcnces,  on  the  lake  shore,  about  twenty  miles 
north  of  the  fort,  and  running  due  west,  strikes 
the  Mississippi  between  Dubuque's  lead  mines,  and 
Prairie  du  Chien.  It  is  two  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  miles,  from  Chicago  to  Green  Bay,  by  the  way 
of  the  lakes,  and  the  portage  of  Sturgeon  bay — and 
four  hundred  to  the  island  of  Michilimackinac. 

Chicago  creek  is  eighty  yards  wide,  at  the  garri- 
son, and  has  a  bar  at  its  mouth,  which  prevents 
shipping  from  entering,  but  is  deep  within.  It  is  as- 
cended eleven  miles  in  boats,  and  barges,  where 
there  is  a  portage  of  seven  miles  across  a  prairie, 
to  the  river  Plein,  the  main  northwestern  fork  of 
the  Illinois. 

The  intervening  country  consists  of  different  stra- 
ta of  marl  and  clay,  presenting  great  facilities  for 
canal  excavation,  and  the  difference  in  the  level  of 
the  two  streams  is  so  little,  that  loaded  boats  of 
a  small  class,  may  pass  over  the  lowest  parts  of  the 
prairie,  during  the  spring,  and  autumnal  freshets. — 
But  at  mid-summer,  it  is  necessary  to  transport  them, 
over  land,  to  mount  Juliet,  a  distance  of  thirty 
miles.  From  thence  the  navigation  is  good,  at  all 
seasons,  to  St.  Louis,  a  distance  of  four  hundred 
miles. 

XCIX.  Day.— (JurrustZOih.)— The  country  around 
Chicago  is  the  most  fertile  and  beautiful  that  can 
be  imagined.  It  consists  of  an  intermixture  of  woods 
and  prairies,  diversified  with  gentle  slopes,  some- 
times attaining  the  elevation  of  hills,  and  irrigated 
with  a  number  of  clear  streams  and  rivers,  which 
throw  their  waters  partly  into  lake  Michigan,  and 
partly  into  the  Mississippi   river.      As   a  farming 


385 

country,  it  unites  the  fertile  soil,  of  the  finest  low- 
land prairies,  with  an  elevation,  which  exempts  it 
from  the  influence  of  stagnant  waters,  and  a  sum- 
mer climate  of  delightful  serenity;  while  its  natural 
meadows  present  all  the  advantages  tor  raising  stock,of 
the  most  favoured  part  of  the  valley  of  the  Mississippi. 
It  is  already  the  seat  of  several  flourishing  planta- 
tions, and  only  requires  the  extinguishment  of  the 
Indian  title  to  the  lands,  to  become  one  of  the  most 
attractive  fields  for  the  emigrant.  To  the  ordinary 
advantages  of  an  agricultural  market  town,  it  must, 
hereafter,  add  that  of  a  depot,  for  the  inland  com- 
merce, between  the  northern  and  southern  sections 
of  the  union,  and  a  great  thoroughfare  for  stran- 
gers, merchants,  and  travellers. 

There  is  a  valuable  and  extensive  bed  of  mineral 
coal,  about  forty  miles  southwest  of  Chicago,  on 
the  Fox  river  of  the  Illinois,  near  the  point  of  its 
embouchure.  The  stratum  of  coal,  which  appears 
on  the  banks  of  the  river,  is  said  to  have  an  exten- 
sive range  towards  the  northwest,  and  is  only  cov- 
ered by  a  light  deposit  of  alluvial  soil,  of  a  few  feet 
in  thickness.  There  is  also,  about  twenty  miles 
north  of  Chicago,  a  bed  of  red  oxide  of  iron,  in  a 
state  of  great  purity,  and  its  preparation  as  a  pig- 
ment, may  be  expected  to  result  from  the  influx  of 
emigrants.  Pyrites,  are  also  very  common  in  this 
vicinity,  yet,  it  is  a  singular  tact,  that  the  bricks  at 
Chicago,  which  are  manufactured  from  the  earth, 
taken  up  on  the  banks  of  the  creek,  burn  white,  like 
the  Stourbridge  fire-bricks,  indicating,  as  I  am  led 
to  conclude,  an  absence  of  iron,  in  any  of  its  nu- 
merous forms  of  combination,  at  least,  in  the  usual 

-19 


386 

degree.  All  our  common  clays  burn  with  some 
tint,  however  light,  of  red,  which  has  been  referred, 
by  chemical  writers,  with  much  precision,  to  the 
presence  of  oxid  of  iron. 

There  is  said  to  be  a  petrified  hickory  tree  in  the 
bed  of  the  river  Kankakee,  near  its  junction  with 
the  Illinois,  forty-five  miles  by  land,  and  sixty  by 
the  course  of  the  river,  from  Chicago.  It  is  entire, 
and  partly  imbedded  in  the  calcareous  rock,  forming 
the  bed  of  the  Kankakee. 

The  open  nature  of  the  country  around  Chicago, 
exposes  it  to  piercing  winds  during  the  winter 
months,  although  the  same  cause,  contributes  to 
render  it  a  delightful  residence  during  the  summer 
season.  The  following  is  an  abstract  of  a  meteo- 
rological register,  kept  by  Dc  ctor  Wolcott,  at  Chi- 
cago, during  the  first  quarter  of  the  present  year. 

Atmospheric  Heat. 


Average  Temperature. 

Av.  Temp. 

Av.  Temp. 

1820.  at  9  a.m. 

at  2  p.  m. 

at  9  p.  m. 

Jan.             14° 

18° 

14° 

Feb.            29° 

36° 

30° 

M'r.(tol5)27° 

32° 

25° 

Winds. 

Jan.  w.  8  days,  w.  n.  w.  5,  w.  s.  w.  10,  n.  n.  e.  6,  e.  n.  e.  2. 

Feb.  E.  7, s.  w.  ?,  w.  5,  s.  2,  s.  e.  2,  w  s.  w.  3,  E.  n.  e.  2. 

Mar.  (to  15)  n.n.  w.  3,  e.  n.  e.  4,  n.  n.  e.2,  n.  e.2,  s.  w.  2.n.w.2. 

Weather. 

Jan.  cloudy    6, — snow  storms  6, — clear  19, 

Feb.  cloudy    8, —  rain  4, — clear  17, 

M'r.  (to  1 5)  cloudy  1 0,—  clear  4- 


387 

I'he  ice  in  the  lake  was  fourteen  inches  in  thick- 
ness, on  the  1  st  of  January,  and  eighteen  and  threes- 
fourths,  (its  greatest  thickness,  during  the  winter  ;) 
on  the  second  of  February.  The  greatest  depth  of 
snow  was  twenty-two  inches,  on  the  thirty-first 
of  January.  The  thermometer  stood  at  0  on 
the  first  and  nineteenth  of  January.  The  highest 
degree  of  heat  during  that  month  was  39°. — In  Feb- 
ruary,  the  highest  heat  was  Z)9° — in  March,  42°* 


CHAPTER  XV. 

J  O  U  RJV  E  F, 


FROM  CHICAGO,  THROUGH  LAKE  MICHIGAN,  TO 
MIC  ML  IMA  CKIJVA  C. 


C.  Day. — (August  31s/.} 

GOVERNOR  CASS  here  determined  to  proceed  on 
horseback,  across  the  peninsula  of  Michigan,  follow- 
ing the  Indian  trail,  to  Detroit;  and  accompanied 
by  Mr.  Kinsey,  of  Chicago,  Major  Forsyth,  and 
Lieutenant  Mackay  of  the  expedition,  and  one  or 
two  attendants,  left  Chicago  at  one  o'clock  in  the  af- 
ternoon, taking  the  beach  road  to  the  river  Du 
Schmein,  where  the  path  leaves  the  lake.  In  the 
mean  time,  Captain  Douglass  and  myself,  were  left 
to  complete  the  topographical  and  geological  sur- 
vey of  Lake  Michigan,  and  joining  our  compan- 
ions, who  were  detached  from  Green  Bay  on  the 
twenty-second  of  August,  at  Michilimackinac,  to 
proceed  to  Detroit  with  all  practicable  despatch. — 
We  were  ready  to  embark  at  half  past  two  in  the 
afternoon,  and  bidding  adieu  to  Doctor  Wolcott, 
who,  being  a  resident  of  Chicago,  here  left  the  ex- 
pedition ;  we  proceeded,  with  a  fair  wind,  twenty 


389       * 

miles  south-southeast,  and  encamped  on  the  shore 
of  the  lake.  At  the  distance  of  eleven  miles  from 
Chicago,  we  passed  the  mouth  of  the  river  Little 
Konomick,  which  is  a  stream  of  about  forty  miles 
in  length,  flowing  in,  by  a  deep  and  narrow  channel, 
from  the  south.  The  shore  of  the  lake,  during  this 
distance,  is  the  sandy  margin  of  a  prairie,  without 
hills.  In  one  instance  only,  do  any  rock  strata  appear, 
and  then  merely  at  a  point,  not  elevated  more  than 
four  or  five  inches  above  the  water.  They  are  cal- 
careous. 

CI.  Day. — {September  1st.) — Detained  by  head 
winds.  In  passing  along  the  shore  of  the  lake,  (yes- 
terday) at  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half  from 
Chicago,  the  scene  of  the  massacre  of  the  garri- 
son, stationed  at  that  place,  during  the  late  war, 
was  pointed  out  to  us.  This  took  place  on  the  fif- 
teenth of  August,  1812,  the  day  after  the  surrender 
of  General  Hull,  at  Detroit.  At  this  eventful  peri- 
od of  the  war,  gloom  hung  upon  every  part  of  our 
extensive  northwestern  frontiers.  The  town  of  Mich- 
ilimackinac  had  already  been  carried  by  surprise ; 
and  the  retrograde  movements  of  the  American  ar- 
my, served  to  flatter  the  most  sanguine  hopes  of  In- 
dian animosity — while  the  recollection  of  their  re- 
cent defeat  at  Tippacanoe — their  ancient  prejudi- 
ces— and  above  all,  their  British  allies,  were  every 
day  adding  to  their  infuriated  bands — which,  rising 
from  the  north,  the  east,  and  the  south,  now  hung 
like  a  gathering  tempest  over  the  land,  every  mo- 
ment increasing  in  its  gloom,  and  threatening  rapine 
and  destruction,  to  our  unfortified  frontiers.  In  this 
exigency  of  the  times,  while  it  appeared  yet  prac- 


•        .390 

ticable  to  escape,  Capt.  Heald,  commanding  the 
rison  at  Chicago,  received  orders  from  Gov.  H  to 
evacuate  the  fort,  which  it  would  be  impossible  tosuc- 
cour,  in  case  of  an  Indian  attack ;  and  to  proceed  with 
his  command,  by  land,  to  Detroit.  This  order  was 
received  on  the  ninth  of  August,  and  had  it  been 
promptly  obeyed,  it  is  probable  that  the  fate  of  the 
garrison  would  have  been  averted,  as  the  Indians 
had  not  yet  appeared  in  force ;  but  owing  to  an  in- 
fatuation, which  it  is  difficult  to  explain,  eight  days 
were  allowed  to  elapse,  before  the  order  was  exe- 
cuted, during  which  time,  the  Indians  had  collected 
around  the  garrison  to  the  number  of  four  or  five 
hundred,  and  by  killing  the  cattle,  and  other  out- 
rageous acts,  shewed  a  determined  hostility,  al- 
though they  had  not  yet  menaced  the  garrison.  On 
the  thirteenth,  Captain  Wells  arrived  from  fort 
Wayne,  with  thirty  friendly  Miamies,  to  escort  the 
garrison  to  Detroit,  by  the  request  of  General  Hull, 
Still,  two  days  were  suffered  to  pass,  before  the  gar- 
rison was  evacuated,  owing  to  a  fatal  security  in 
which  the  commandant  indulged,  in  regard  to  the 
dispositions  of  the  Indians — but  in  which  his  sub- 
alterns, and  the  inhabitants,  did  not  coincide.  At 
length,  on  the  fifteenth,  having  distributed  among 
the  Indians  all  the  goods  remaining  in  the  factory 
store,  with  a  quantity  of  provisions ;  and  destroyed 
the  arms  and  ammunition,  which  could  not  be  taken 
away,  Captain  Heald  marched  out  of  the  garrison, 
at  nine  o'clock  in  the  morning,  following  along  the 
sandy  beach  of  the  lake,  which  is  the  usual  route 
to  fort  Wayne  and  Detroit.  The  garrison  now  con- 
sisted of  fifty-four  regulars,  and  twelve  militia,  ex- 
clusive of  the  officers,  and  the  friendly  Miamies, 


391 

m^er  Captain  Wells.  They  were  accompanied  by 
s  j  al  baggage  waggons,  containing  provisions  and 
ammunition,  and  eighteen  women  and  children;  the 
whole  force  comprising  the  entire  population,  both 
civil  and  military  of  Chicago.  The  face  of  the  coun- 
try is  such,  that  it  is  necessary  to  travel  along  the 
sandy  shore  of  the  lake,  with  sand  banks  on  the  right, 
at  the  distance  of  from  one  to  two  hundred  yards, 
and  elevated  to  such  a  height,  that  the  country  back 
of  it,  is  completely  hid  from  the  view.  They  had 
not  proceeded  more  than  a  mile  and  a  half,  when  it 
was  perceived  that  a  large  body  of  Indians  were 
lying  in  ambush  behind  these  sand  hills,  and 
they  soon  encompassed  them, — the  broad  lake 
extending  on  the  left.  This  discovery  was 
scarcely  made,  when  the  Indians  set  up  their 
horrid  yell,  and  poured  down  a  warm  fire  in  all  di- 
rections. Several  men  fell  at  the  first  shot,  but 
Captain  Heald  formed  his  men  with  deliberation, 
and  after  firing  one  round,  ordered  a  charge,  and 
ascended  the  bank,  after  sustaining  a  severe  loss. — 
The  Indians  in  front,  fled  to  the  right  and  left,  join,- 
ing  a  deadly  fire  which  was  kept  up  from  the  flanks, 
and  which  it  was  in  vain  to  resist.  In  a  few  moments, 
out  of  sixty-six  soldiers,  only  sixteen  were  alive- 
Captain  Heald  succeeded,  however,  in  drawing  off 
these,  to  an  eminence  in  the  open  prairie,  out 
of  reach  of  their  shot.  They  did  not  follow  him 
out,  but  gathering  upon  the  bank,  began  a  consulta- 
tion, and  made  signs  for  him  to  approach.  He  was 
met  by  a  Pottowatomie  chief,  called  the  Black  Bird, 
to  whom  he  surrendered  himself,  with  his  Lieut. 
(Helm)  and  sixteen  men,  under  a  promise  that  their 
lives  should  be  spared ;  but  they  were  afterwards 
butchered,  from  time  to  time,  with  the  exception  of 


392 

Captain  Heald,  and  three  or  four  men.  Among  the 
killed,  were  Ensign  Ronan,  Doctor  Voorhis,  h.  \ 
Captain  Wells.  The  latter  had  his  heart  cut  out. 
and  other  shocking  barbarities  committed  upon  hi6 
body,  having  rendered  himself  particularly  obnox- 
ious to  the  Indians,  by  his  influence  among  those 
savage  tribes,  who  remained  friendly  to  the  United 
States.  In  the  course  of  the  action,  a  party  of  In- 
dians, raising  their  furious  yells,  rushed  upon  the 
baggage  waggons,  where  the  women  and  children  had 
taken  shelter,  and  commenced  a  scene  of  plun- 
der and  massacre,  which  it  would  be  impossible  to 
describe.  Of  eighteen  women  and  children,  twelve 
were  killed  upon  the  spot.  Several  of  the  women, 
(soldiers'  wives)  fought  with  swords. 

During  the  action,  a  sergeant  of  infantry,  who 
had  already  manifested  the  greatest  bravery,  was  op- 
posed in  personal  combat  with  an  Indian.  Both  had  al- 
ready discharged  their  pieces,  when  the  sergeant  saw 
the  Indian  running  up  to  him  with  a  lifted  tomahawk, 
but  before  the  blow  fell,  ran  his  bayonet  in  the  In- 
dian's breast  up  to  the  socket,  so  that  he  could  not 
pull  it  out;  yet,  in  this  situation,  the  Indian  toma- 
hawked him,  and  they  both  fell  dead  together.* — 
The  Miamies  took  no  part  in  this  massacre.  It  was 
executed  by  the  Pottowatomie  tribe.  These  facts 
are  taken  from  the  description  given  by  an  eye-wit- 

*  A  similar  instance  of  courage  is  mentioned  to  have  occurred 
:n  the  battle  of  Oriskany,  during  the  revolutionary  war.  "  There 
was  found  an  Indian  and  a  white  man,  both  born  on  the  banks  of 
the  Mohawk,  their  left  hands  clenched  in  each  other's  hair,  the 
right  grasping  in  a  gripe  of  death,  the  knife  plunged  in  each  oth- 
er's bosom.  Thus  they  lay  frowning." — Governeur  Morris''  Dfo 
course  before  the  New-Yorl*  Historical  Society.  1812. 


393 

jiess,  Mr.  Kinsey  of  Chicago,   and  nrbm   Captain 
Heald's  official  report.* 

CII.  Day. — {September  2d.) — The  wind  cejaafthNn 
the  course  of  the  night,  and  we  embarkllratear- 
]y  day  light.  On  proceeding  twelve  miles,  we  pass- 
ed the  grand  Konomick,  the  mouth  of  which  is 
choaked  up  with  sand,  and  the  appearance  of  the 
country,  in  the  vicinity,  is  very  barren,  and  uninvi- 
ting. Twenty  miles  beyond,  we  passed  the  mouth 
of  the  river  du  Chemin,  (river  of  the  Road. )  Here 
the  path  from  Chicago  to  Detroit,  by  land,  leads  out 
into  the  prairies.  The  distance  to  Detroit,  is  compu- 
ted to  be  three  hundred  miles.  There  is  a  plain  horse 
path,  which  is  considerably  travelled  by  traders, 
hunters,  and  others.  It  is,  however,  intersected  by 
innumerable  cross  paths,  leading  to  different  Indian 
villages  and  settlements,  so  that  it  could  not  be  pur- 
sued by  a  stranger,  without  a  guide.  The  country 
is  said  to  be  handsomely  diversified  with  prairies, 
woods,  hills,  and  streams,  and  furnishes  every  facil- 
ity for  waggon  roads,  settlements,  water-mills,  &c. — ■ 
In  the  spring  and  fall,  some  danger  is  to  be  appre- 
hended in  crossing  several  of  the  streams,  but  there 
are  none  which  may  not  be  safely  forded  at  midsum- 
mer. 

At  a  point  intermediate,  between  the  grand  Ko- 
nomick, and  the  river  du  Chemin,  we  passed  the  spot, 
on  the  beach  of  the  lake,  where  the  schooner  Her- 
cules, was  wrecked  in  the  fall  of  1316,  ancl  all  on 
board  perished.  The  mast,  pump,  and  some  frag- 
ments of  spars,  scattered  along  the  shore,  still  serve 

*  See  Fay's  Battles,  p.  65. 
50 


39  A 

to  mark  the  spot,  and  to  convey  some  idea  of  the 
dreadful  storms  which  at  certain  seasons  agitate  this 
lake.  The  voyageurs  also  pointed  out  to  us,  the 
graves  of  those  who  perished,  who  appear  to  have 
been  buried  at  different  places,  along  the  shore, 
where  they  happened  to  be  washed  up.  Among 
these,  was  Lieutenant  William  S.  Evileth,  an  intelli- 
gent and  promising  young  officer  of  engineers,  whose 
death  has  been  much  lamented.  He  had  been  em- 
ployed in  the  re-building  of  the  military  works  at 
Chicago,  which  were  burnt  down  by  the  Pottowato-  ! 
mies,  during  the  late  war,  after  the  massacre  of  the 
garrison;  and  had  embarked  the  day  previous  to  the 
shipwreck,  at  Chicago,  to  return  to  his  friends,  after  I 
a  summer  spent  in  arduous  and  useful  service.  It  1 
was  late  in  November,  when  the  navigation  is  at- 
tended with  so  much  peril;  and  the  first  intelligence 
of  the  fatal  catastrophe,  was  communicated  by  find- 
ing the  wreck  of  the  vessel,  and  the  bodies  of  the 
passengers,  strewed  along  the  shore.  Several  days 
had  however  elapsed  before  this  discovery  was  S 
made,  and  the  bodies  were  so  beat  and  bruised  by 
the  spars  of  the  wreck,  that  the  deceased  could  not 
be  recognised  by  their  features.  The  wolves  had 
gnawed  the  face  of  Lieutenant  Evileth  in  so  shock- 
ing a  manner,  that  he  could  not  have  been  recogni- 
sed had  it  not  been  for  the  military  buttons  of  his 
clothes.  His  grave  is  situated  beneath  a  cluster  of 
small  pines,  on  the  declivity  of  a  sand  bank,  and  is 
marked  by  a  blazed  sapling.  His  memory  would  ap- 
pear to  deserve  some  tribute  of  respect,  more  grateful 
to  the  feelings  of  humanity,  from  those  with  whom| 
he  was  formerly  associated;    and  perhaps  this  sug- 


395 

gestion  has  not  occurred  to  the  officers,  stationed  at 
the  neighbouring  garrison. 

The  little  river  du  Galien,  enters  the  lake  ten 
miles  beyond  the  river  du  Chemin,  by  a  mouth 
nearly  closed  with  drifting  sands.  We  encamped 
on  the  beach  twelve  miles  beyond  it,  having  pro- 
gressed altogether  a  distance  of  fifty-four  miles. 

CI1I.  Day. — {September  3d.) — We  reached  the  riv- 
er St.  Joseph,  in  travelling  fourteen  miles.  This  is 
one  of  the  largest  and  most  important  streams  which 
flows  into  the  lake  on  its  eastern  shore.  It  is  as- 
cended one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  in  canoes, 
and  is  connected  by  a  short  portage,  with  a  river  of 
the  same  name,  which  runs  into  the  Miami  of  the 
Lake,  near  fort  Wayne — a  route  which  is  frequently 
travelled  by  the  Indians.  This  stream  was  former- 
ly the  seat  of  a  French  fort,  and  missionary  family, 
and  continued  for  many  years  to  be  one  of  the  most 
important  places  in  the  region.  It  is  particularly 
described  by  Charlevoix,  Hennepin,  and  other  ear- 
ly French  travellers  and  missionaries.  The  lands 
upon  its  banks  are  represented  to  be  rich  and  beau- 
tiful, and  heavily  timbered  with  black  walnut,  oak, 
maple,  and  elm ;  but  its  mouth  is  skirted  by  sand 
hills,  of  the  most  sterile  appearance,  and  support- 
ing nothing  but  pines  and  poplars.  There  is  found, 
towards  the  sources  of  this  river,  a  variety  of  sin- 
gular petrifactions,  which  may  be  referred  to  the  ge- 
nus of  Phytoliks.  They  consist  chiefly,  of  the  leaves, 
branches,  and  roots  of  trees,  mineralized  by  the 
calcareous  earth,  which  appears  to  be  held  in  solu- 
tion by  one  of  the  higher  tributaries  of  the  St.  Jo- 


396 

ieph,  in  the  bed  of  which  these  organic  reiiqua  are 
found.* 

It  is  twenty-four  miles  from  the  St.  Joseph,  to  the 
Blackwater  river,  which  is  a  stream  of  sixty  miles 
in  length,  and  is  ascended  in  canoes  nearly  to  its 
source.  Like  all  the  streams  which  enter  on  this 
side  of  the  lake,  its  mouth  is  almost  closed  with 
yellow  sands.  In  the  intermediate  distance  between 
St.  Joseph's  and  the  Blackwater,  I  found  along  the 
shore,  a  number  of  specimens  of  chalcedony,  com- 
mon jasper,  quartz,  and  some  madrepores,  and  oth- 
er organic  relics.  We  encamped  twelve  miles  be- 
yond the  latter,  upon  the  sandy  shore,  having  pro- 
ceeded fifty  miles. 

CIV.  Day. — (September  4th.) — On  travelling  ten 
miles,  we  passed  the  river  Kikalemazo,  which  appears 
from  its  mouth,  to  be  a  stream  of  considerable  size. 
Along  the  shore  of  the  lake,  between  this  stream  and 
the  Blackwater,  the  ludus  helmontii,t  is  very  abun* 
dant. 

•These  vegetable  petrifactions  were  discovered  by  Governor 
Cass,  in  his  tour  across  the  peninsula  of  Michigan,  from  Chicago 
to  Detroit  j  and  I  am  indebted  to  the  zeal,  which  he  uniformly 
manifested  during  the  expedition,  to  promote  the  cause  of  sci- 
ence, for  the  very  interesting  specimens  I  possess  from  this  locali- 
ty;  and  which  were  conveyed  nearly  two  hundred  miles  on  horse- 
back, through  the  woods. 

f  "This  name  is  given  to  orbicular  masses  of  calcareous  marl, 
usually  from  one  to  eighteen  inches  diameter,  whose  interior  pre- 
sents numerous  fissures  or  seams,  which  divide  the  mass  into  ir- 
regular prisms.  These  fissures  are  usually  lined  or  filled  by  some 
crystallized  substance,  as  calcareous  spar  or  quartz,  which  have 
undoubtedly  entered  by  filtration.  These  masses  are  usually  found 

lit  beds  of  marl." 

Cleavdand's  Mintralogy. 


397 

Eight  miles  beyond  the  Kikalemazo,  there  is  a 
river  of  secondary  size,  called  Black  river  or  Iro- 
quois chiefly  noted  for  the  ginseng,  which  is  abun- 
dantly found  upon  its  banks.  Thence,  it  is  seven 
leagues  to  Grand  river,  which  is  next  in  point  of 
size,  and  importance,  to  the  St.  Joseph..  This 
stream  is  said  to  afford  one  of  the  finest  tracts  of 
farming  land  in  the  Michigan  territory  It  forms  the 
boundary  line  between  the  territories  of  the  Potto- 
watomie  and  Ottoway  tribes ;  and  is  at  present  the 
residence  of  a  numerous  savage  population.  A  bed 
of  gypsum,  of  a  fine  quality  for  agricultural  purpo- 
ses, has  recently  been  discovered  upon  the  naviga- 
ble waters  of  this  stream. 

The  next  stream  of  considerable  size  is  the  Mas- 
kagon,  which  enters  the  lake  twelve  miles  from 
Grand  river,  at  the  mouth  of  which  we  encamped, 
at  eight  o'clock,  having  advanced,  during  the  day, 
a  distance  of  fifty-four  miles.  The  margin  of  the 
lake  presents  a  dreary  prospect  of  sand  banks,  cov- 
ered with  pine  and  poplar.  The  shore  is  sandy, 
with  occasional  banks  of  pebbles ;  but  no  rock  stra- 
ta appear  in  situ.  The  only  birds,  seen  along 
this  part  of  the  coast,  are  the  gull,  and  the  crow.— 
We  passed,  at  a  short  distance  from  Grand  river,  a 
number  of  spars,  and  pieces  of  timber,  belonging 
to  the  wreck  of  an  English  vessel,  cast  away  several 
years  ago  on  this  part  of  the  coast. 

We  encamped  at  the  mouth  of  the  Maskagon  at 
twilight,  and  had  a  few  moments  to  examine  the 
singular  appearances  of  this  part  of  the  coast,  which 
consists  of  conical  hills  of  loose  sand,  that  are 
changing  their  forms  and  position  during  every  gale 
sf  wind ;  and  in  some  places,  present  a  few  poplars, 


398 

pines,  or  hemlocks.  In  a  few  moments  after  land- 
ing, one  of  the  men,  who  had  been  sent  out  to  pro- 
cure wood,  returned,  bringing  with  him  two  singular 
productions,  which  he  denominated  sand  horns. — 
1  hey  were  found  attached  to  the  lower  part  of  a 
dead  poplar  (populus  tremidoidcs)  standing  upon  the 
summit  of  one  of  those  conical  hills  of  naked  sand, 
which  characterize  the  mouth  of  the  Muskagon; 
and  in  cutting  down  the  tree,  fell  off.  On  examin- 
ing the  tree,  I  found  several  smaller  productions  of 
the  same  kind,  attached  to  the  bark,  in  the  manner, 
and  in  the  form  of  common  fungi.  The  sand  horns 
are  a  foot  in  length,  branching  out  in  various  forms, 
like  the  corals  of  the  ocean,  having  the  granular 
structure,  of  grey  sand  stone  rock,  with  the  or- 
ganic external  form  of  the  club-fungus.  (See  the 
plate.)  There  is  no  appearance,  however,  of  a 
stipe  or  stem  in  breaking  off  one  of  the  branches, 
nor  are  there  any  indications  of  a  nucleus  at  the 
point  of  attachment  to  the  tree.  In  hardness,  it  is 
intermediate  between  a  porous  sand  stone,  and  cer- 
tain steatites;  and  I  have  observed  during  wet 
weather,  that  it  acquires  a  certain  degree  of  flexi- 
bility. Muriatic  acid  has  no  action  upon  it,  either 
in  the  concentrated  or  diluted  iorm,  but  there  is  an 
effervescence  in  diluted  sulphuric  acid,  and  a  part 
of  the  powder  is  held  in  solution,  forming  a  kind  of 
jelly,  while  the  pure  grains  of  silicious  sand,  are 
precipitated  to  the  bottom  of  the  glass,  in  the  com- 
mon form.  These  circumstances  indicate  a  combi- 
nation of  vegetable  and  mineral  matter,  not  exactly 
in  the  form  of  a  common  petrifaction,  but  somewhat 
analogous ;  and  will  authorize  us  in  classing  them 
among  fho<=e  organic  remain^,  whose  prototype  is 


Im 


u.H-OSFQB-D    1341- 


399 

taken  from  the  vegetable  kingdom.  These  consti- 
tute the  genus  Phytolite,  in  Martin's  Systema  Reli- 
quiorum,  under  which,  the  present  discovery  will 
furnish  the  occasion  of  erecting  a  new  species,  that 
shall  embrace  petrifactions,  of  the  various  species  of 
the  botanical  order  Fungi. 

CV.  Day. — (September  5lh.) — It  is  twelve  miles 
from  the  Maskagon  to  White  river — then  thirty-one 
to  the  Pentwater,  or  Black  river,  with  an  Indian 
village  in  the  intermediate  space ;  and  nine  more  to 
the  river  Marquette,  which  takes  its  name  from  one  of 
the  most  enterprising  of  the  Catholic  missionaries, 
who,  during  the  early  settlement  of  Canada,  devoted 
themselves,  in  so  extraordinary  a  manner,  to  the 
reformation  of  the  savage  tribes.  He  was  one  of  the 
first  discoverers  of  the  Mississippi,  and  the  founder 
of  Michilimackinac. 

"  Father  Joseph  Marquette,"  says  Charlevoix,  "  a 
native  of  Laon  in  Picardy,  where  his  family  still 
maintains  a  distinguished  rank,  was  one  of  the  most 
illustrious  missionaries  of  New  France.  This  per- 
son travelled  over  all  the  countries  in  it,  and  made 
several  important  discoveries,  the  last  of  which  was 
that  of  the  Mississippi,  which  he  entered  with  the 
Sieur  Joliet,  in  1673.  Two  years  after  this  discov- 
ery, an  account  of  which  he  has  published,  as  he 
was  going  from  Chicago,  which  is  at  the  bottom  of 
Lake  Michigan,  to  Michilimackinac,  he  entered  on 
the  eighth  day  of  May,  1675,  the  river  in  question, 
the  mouth  of  which  was  then  at  the  extremity  of  the 
lower  ground,  which,  as  I  have  already  taken  notice, 
you  leave  on  the  right  hand  as  you  enter.  Here 
he  erected  his  altar,  and  said  mass.      He   went  af- 


400 

terwards  to  a  small  distance,  in  order  to  return 
thanks,  and  begged  the  two  men  who  conducted  his 
canoe  to  leave  him  alone  for  half  an  hour.  This 
time  having  passed,  they  went  to  seek  him,  and 
were  surprised  to  find  him  dead ;  they  called  to 
mind,  however,  that  on  entering  the  river,  he  had 
let  drop  an  expression,  that  he  should  end  his  days 
at  that  place.  However,  as  it  was  too  far  to  carry 
his  body  to  Michilimackinac,  they  buried  him  near 
the  bank  of  the  river,  which  from  that  time  has  re- 
tired by  degrees,  as  out  of  respect  for  his  remains, 
as  far  as  the  cape,  the  foot  of  which  it  now  wash- 
es ;  and  where  it  has  opened  itself  a  new  passage." 

Fourteen  miles  north  of  the  river  Marquette,  San- 
dy river  throws  itself  into  the  lake,  by  a  mouth  of 
only  ten  yards  wide,  being  choaked  up,  in  some 
measure,  by  the  sands,  which  are  beat  up  by  the 
lake.  We  encamped  four  miles  beyond  the  latter, 
at  a  late  hour,  having  progressed,  with  a  favourable 
wind,  seventy  miles. 

CVI.  Day. — {September  6th.) — The  distance  from 
Sandy,  to  Man  is  tic  river,  is  seventeen  miles — thence 
thirty,  to  the  river  Au  Betsie,  and  two  to  Gravelly 
Point,  where  we  encamped,  after  proceeding  forty- 
five  miles.  We  were  detained  a  couple  of  hours  in 
the  morning,  by  rain,  which  continued,  with  short 
intermissions,  during  the  day.  There  is  a  great 
uniformity  in  the  appearance  of  the  coast,  which  is 
characterized  by  sand  banks,  and  pines.  In  some 
instances,  a  stratum  of  loam,  is  seen  beneath  the 
sand,  and  the  beech  and  maple  are  occasionally 
intermixed  with  the  predominating  pines  of  the  for- 
est;  but  our  impressions  in  passing  along  the  coast, 


401 

Tire  only  those  produced  by  barren  scenery  or  im« 
cultivated  woods. 

"  No  hamlet  smoking  through  the  mists  of  dawn, 
No  garden  blushing  with  its  fostering  dew, 
No  herds^vild  browsing  on  the  dasied  lawn— . 
No  busy  village  charms  the  admiring  view." 

CV1I.  Day.— (September  7th.)— The  weather  still 
remained  cloudy. — We  embarked  at  early  daylight. 
In  going  thirteen  miles,  we  passed  a  small  stream 
called  Plate  river  ;  and  nine  miles  beyond  reached 
a  noted  point,  on  the  east  shore  of  the  lake,  called 
the  Sleeping  Bear.  The  shore  of  the  lake  here, 
consists  of  a  bank  of  sand,  probably  two  hundred 
feet  high,  and  extending  eight  or  nine  miles,  with- 
out any  vegetation,  except  a  small  hillock,  about 
the  centre,  which  is  covered  with  pines  and  pop- 
lars, and  has  served  to  give  name  to  the  place,  from 
a  rude  resemblance  it  has,  when  viewed  at  a  dis- 
tance, to  a  couchant  bear.  There  are  two  islands 
off  this  part  of  the  coast,  in  plain  view  from  the 
shore,  which  are  called  the  Sleeping  Bear  islands. 

Fifteen  miles  beyond  the  Sleeping  Bear,  we  pass- 
ed Carp  river,  a  small  stream  ;  and  a  like  distance 
beyond  it,  encamped  on  the  southern  cape  of  Grande 
Traverse  Bay,  which  is  the  most  considerable  in- 
dentation in  the  eastern  shore  of  Lake  Michigan, 
being  nine  miles  wide,  and  about  twenty  or  twenty- 
five  in  length,  narrowing  towards  its  head,  where  it 
receives  the  Ottoway  river.  At  this  place,  the  rock 
strata  first  appear  in  situ,  in  travelling  from  Chica- 
go to  Michilimackinac,  with  the  exception  of  a  point 
near  the  little   Konomick,  formerly  mentioned.     It 

51 


402 

is  calcareous,  stratified,  and  with  shells  sparingly 
imbedded.  It  scarcely  appears  above  the  water  in 
the  ledge,  but  large  detached  masses  of  it,  with 
enormous  boulders  of  hornblende,  and  granite,  are 
lying  in  the  water  near  the  shore,  and  render  it 
dangerous  to  turn  this  cape  in  canoes,  during  the 
night,  or  in  cases  of  a  strong  wind. 

A  visible  eclipse  of  the  sun  had  been  calculated 
for  this  day,  to  commence  at  seven  o'clock,  twenty 
minutes ;  but  we  could  perceive  no  obscuration, 
notwithstanding  that  the  sun  shone  out,  a  great  part 
of  the  time  between  six  and  eight  o'clock,  and  we 
were  prepared  to  observe  the  commencement  and 
duration  of  the  eclipse,  by  the  telescope,  and  the 
darkened  glasses  of  a  common  sextant.  The  at- 
mosphere was  cloudy  and  obscure  at  daylight,  but 
lightened  towards  six  o'clock,  and  between  that  and 
eight,  a  succession  of  fleecy  clouds  passed  rapid- 
ly before  the  sun,  sometimes  veiling  it  entirely 
for  a  number  of  minutes,  but  during  the  inter- 
vals, it  shone  forth  with  its  usual  effulgence,  and 
we  could  observe  no  diminution  in  the  light,  the 
transparency,  or  the  temperature  of  the  air.  This 
eclipse  was  observed  according  to  the  predictions 
at  Philadelphia,  &c. 

CVIH.  Day.— (September  8/i)-We  were  favour- 
ed with  a  calm,  in  crossing  the  Grand  Traverse, 
which  is  nine  miles.  It  is  then  six  miles  to  La  Pe- 
tit Traverse,  which  is  two  leagues  across ;  and  nine 
more,  to  the  Indian  village  of  L'Arbre  Croche. 
This  consists  of  about  forty  families  of  Ottoways, 
who  are  settled  upon  a  very  fertile  tract  of  land, 
and  raise  corn,  potatoes,  pease,  beans,  cucumbers, 


403 

and  pumpkins,  not  only  in  sufficient  quantity  for 
their  own  subsistence,  but  they  annually  take  a 
quantity  of  corn  to  the  Michilimackinac  market. — 
They  reside  in  permanent,  and  comfortable  houses, 
and  number  altogether,  about  three  hundred  souls. 
There  was  formerly  a  Jesuit  Mission  established  at 
this  place,  but  it  declined  with  the  fall  of  the  French 
power  in  the  Canadas.  The  site  of  the  chapel,  and 
the  clerical  mansion,  was  designated  by  our  Cana- 
dian conductors,  as  we  passed  a  point  of  land  at 
the  northern  extremity  of  the  village,  which  still 
continues  to  be  called  Point  cfia  Mission.  A  cluster 
of  islands  in  the  lake,  called  the  Beaver  islands,  are 
visible  in  passing  along  the  coast,  between  the 
Sleeping  Bear  and  L'Arbre  Croche;  and  are  no- 
ted as  affording  safe  anchorage  ground  to  vessels 
navigating  the  lakes.  Ft  is  twenty-four  miles  from 
Point  a1  la  Mission  to  Wagashonz  or  Fox  Point,  in 
the  straits  of  Michilimackinac,  and  nine  from  thence 
to  the  site  of  old  'Mackinac;  in  the  vicinity  of  which, 
we  encamped  after  dark,  having  progressed  fifty- 
seven  miles. 

CIX.  Day. — (September  9th.) — The  approach  of 
daylight,  which  disclosed  to  our  view,  the  island  of 
Michilimackinac,  brought  with  it,  a  gale  of  wind 
which  created  such  a  swell  on  the  lake,  that  we 
could  not  venture  to  embark.  At  eleven  o'clock, 
the  swells  broke  with  less  fury  along  the  shore,  al- 
though still  too  boisterous  to  attempt  the  traverse  in 
loaded  canoes ;  but  counselled  rather  by  our  impa- 
tience than  our  judgment,  we  determined  to  hazard 
the  attempt,  in  a  light  canoe,  strongly  manned  by 
our  best  voyaguers,  who  volunteered  on  the  occa- 


404 

sion,  ami  had  the  good  fortune,  after  being  tossed  up 
on  the  billows  for  several  hours,  to  reach  the  harbour 
of  Michilimackinac  in  safety. 

CX.  Day. — {September  10th.) — Our  friends,  from 
whom  we  parted  at  Green  Bay  on  the  22nd  of  Au- 
gust, had  arrived  there  several  days  before  us,  ha- 
ving experienced  favourable  winds,  and  completed 
the  passage  in  eight  days.  On  separa'ing  from  us 
at  the  mouth  of  Fox  river,  they  coursed  around  the 
western  shores  of  Green  Bay  to  Detour,  which  is 
the  point  of  the  northern  peninsula  separating  Green 
Bay  from  Lake  Michigan ;  and  thence  along  the 
northwestern  margin  of  the  lake  to  Point  St.  Ig- 
nace,  and  Michilimackinac.  The  entire  distance 
by  that  route,  is  computed  at  two  hundred  and  eigh- 
ty miles.  Green  Bay  has  two  considerable  indenta- 
tions, called  Little  Bay  de  Noquet,  and  Great 
Bay  de  Noquet.  Between  Fox  river  and  Little 
Bay  de  Noquet,  a  large  stream  throws  itself  into 
the  bay,  called  Mcnornonie  river,  which  is  connect- 
ed with  some  of  the  tributary  waters  of  Lake  Su- 
perior. Between  Detour  and  Point  St.  Ignace,  the 
Mino  Cockien,  Manistique,  and  some  smaller  rivers, 
enter  the  lake.  This  part  of  the  country  is  gene- 
rally barren,  consisting  mainly  of  sandy  pine  ridges, 
or  naked  calcareous  rocks.  The  western  shores  of 
Green  Bay,  afford  some  fine  lands,  mixed,  however, 
with  a  portion  that  is  either  low  and  swampy,  or 
rocky  and  sterile.  In  passing  these  coasts,  Mr. 
Trowbridge  and  Mr.  Doty,  procured  a  number  of 
specimens  illustrative  of  the  mineralogy  and  geolo- 
gy of  the  region.  "  The  most  interesting  of  these," 
says  the  former  in  a  note  to  me  on  the  subject,  "  will 


probably  be  the  organic  remains,  which  yoa  will 
find  in  the  lower  part  of  the  collection ;  they  were 
procured  in  Little  Noquet  Bay,  on  the  northeast 
side,  where  ridges  of  limestone  show  themselves 
frequently.  In  another  part  of  our  collections,  you 
will  find  a  specimen  of  the  limestone  weighing  about 
two  pounds,  of  which  the  upper  stratum  is  compos- 
ed, {secondary  limestone?)  and  likewise,  two  pieces 
of  the  lower  stratum,  resembling  blue  pipe-stone, 
which  were  quite  soft  when  first  taken  up.  {Earthy 
compact  limestone  )  The  middle  stratum  was  compos- 
ed of  these  remains.     (Pcctinites.) 

"  About  ten  miles  northeast  of  the  Great  Bay  de 
Noquet,  we  found  flint,  or  horustone,  of  which  spe- 
cimens are  sent.  It  was  found  in  small  quantities 
attached  to  the  limestone  rocks.  {This  is  the  com' 
mon  hornstone  in  nodules.) 

"  There  is  also  a  specimen  of  marble,  (transition 
limestone)  which,  however,  we  saw  little  of;  but  since 
our  arrival,  are  informed  that  a  large  bluff  compos- 
ed of  the  same,  is  seen  from  thirty  to  forty  miles 
from  this  place,  on  the  lake  shore.  That  which  we 
procured,  was  sixty  miles  from  this." 

The  canoe,  with  our  baggage,  which  we  left  on 
the  peninsula,  on  the  morning  of  the  ninth,  travers- 
ed the  strait  of  Michilimackinac  to  Point  St.  Ignace, 
in  the  evening  of  that  day,  and  rejoined  us  this  morn- 
ing in  the  harbour  of  Michilimackinac. 

CXI.  Day. — (September  11  th.) — Several  years  ago, 
a  brilliant  specimen  of  native  copper,  weighing 
ten  or  twelve  pounds,  of  an  irregular  shape,  was 
brought  to  this  place  by  one  of  the  traders,  who  had 
procured  it  from  an  Indian  on  the  banks  of  Winne- 


406 

bago  lake.  Differing  little  in  its  external  character 
from  other  masses  of  the  same  substance,  which 
have  been  so  frequently  found  throughout  this  re- 
gion, I  should  not  bring  the  circumstance  into  notice, 
were  it  not  to  illustrate  by  the  following  fanciful  sto- 
ry, the  fertility  of  invention  and  the  powers  of  ima 
gination,  possessed  by  some  of  the  savage  tribes, 
The  Indian  related,  that  passing  in  his  canoe  during 
the  afternoon  of  a  beautiful  summei's  day,  across 
Winnebago  lake,  when  the  sun  was  just  visible  above 
the  tops  of  the  trees,  and  a  delightful  calm  prevail- 
ed over  the  face  of  the  waters,  he  espied  at  a  distance 
in  the  lake  before  him,  a  beautiful  female  form  stand- 
ing in  the  water.  Her  eyes  shone  with  a  brilliancy 
that  could  not  be  endured,  and  she  held  in  her  hand 
a  lump  of  glittering  gold.  He  immediately  paddled 
towards  the  attractive  object,  but  as  he  came 
near,  he  could  perceive  that  it  was  gradually  al_ 
tering  as  to  its  shape  and  complexion  ;  her  eyes 
no  longer  shone  with  brilliancy — her  face  lost  the 
hectic  glow  of  life — her  arms  imperceptibly  disap- 
peared ;  and  when  he  came  to  the  spot  where  she 
stood,  it  was  a  monument  of  stone,  having  a  human 
face,  with  the  fins  and  tail  of  a  fish.  He  sat  a  long 
while  in  amazement,  fearful  either  to  touch  the 
super-human  object,  or  to  go  away  and  leave  it;  at 
length,  having  made  an  offering  of  the  incense  of  to- 
bacco, and  addressed  it  as  the  guardian  angel  of  his 
country,  he  ventured  to  lay  his  hand  upon  the  statue, 
and  finally  lifted  it  into  his  canoe.  Then  sitting  in 
the  other  end  of  the  canoe,  with  his  back  towards 
the  miraculous  statue,  he  paddled  gently  towards 
the  shore,  but  was  astonished,  on  turning  round,  to 
find  nothing  in  his  canoe,  but  the  large  lump  of  cop- 


407 

per,  "  which,"  he  concluded,  taking  it  carefully  from 
a  roll  of  skins,  "  I  now  present  to  you." 

CXIL  Day.— {September  12th.)— At  Michilimacki- 
nac. 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


RETURA'  TO  DETROIT. 


CXIL  Day.— {September  13th.) 

\\  E  left  Michilimackinac  at  three  o'clock  in  the  af- 
ternoon, and  proceeding  ten  miles,  encamped  at 
Point  aux  Pins  on  the  lower  extremity  of  the  island 
of  Bois  Blanc.  This  island  is  from  ten  to  twelve 
miles  in  length,  by  three  in  width  at  the  widest  part, 
stretching  in  the  form  of  a  crescent  between  the  island 
of  Michilimackinac  and  the  peninsula  of  Michigan. 
The  lower  part  of  it,  consists  of  a  sandy  plain  cover- 
ed with  pitch  pines  (pinus  resinosd)  but  by  far  the 
greatest  portion  of  the  island  is  a  fertile  soil,  well 
adapted  for  tillage,  and  bearing  a  forest  of  elm, 
maple,  oak,  ash,  and  white  wood,  the  latter  being 
the  predominating  tree.  In  the  summer  season,  it 
has  a  luxuriant  under-growth  of  grass,  vines,  and 
succulent  plants,  and  serves  as  pasturage  ground  for 
the  cattle  and  horses  of  the  inhabitants  of  Michili- 
mackinac, and  also  as  a  repository  of  fire-wood  and 
building  timber ;  and  is,  in  every  respect,  a  most 
valuable  appendage  to  that  settlement. 

CX1V.  Day.— (September  1  \th.) — Detained  by  un- 
favourable winds  during  the  morning. — Jn  the  mean- 


409 

time,  Capt.  Douglass  revisits  'Mackinac,  and  returns 
in  the  evening,  when  the  wind  abating,  we  proceed- 
ed across  the  Traverse  to  the  main  shore — a  dis- 
tance of  four  miles.  While  detained  on  Bois  Blanc, 
a  vessel  bound  for  Michilimackinac,  passed  up 
through  the  narrow  strait,  which  separates  the  isl- 
and from  the  main  shore.  It  is  interesting  to  con- 
template the  progress  of  commerce  through  regions, 
which  at  no  remote  period,  were  only  traversed  in 
bark  canoes  ;  and  which,  perhaps,  in  a  still  shorter 
period,  may  smile  under  the  hand  of  agriculture, 
civilization,  and  the  arts.  Every  fact,  connected  with 
the  early  settlement  of  a  country,  acquires,  in  pro- 
cess of  time,  a  moral  importance  of  which  we  are 
scarcely  aware ;  and  the  historian  siezes  with  avidi- 
ty upon  the  insolated  records  of  the  introduction  of 
any  improvement  in  agriculture,  inventions  in  the 
arts,  and  other  changes  which  affect  the  condition 
and  comfort  of  men,  however  unimportant  in  them- 
selves, to  characterize  the  early  stages  of  society, 
in  every  country.  Only  a  hundred  and  forty-one 
years  have  now  elapsed,  since  the  first  vessel  of  Eu- 
ropean construction,  was  launched  upon  the  northern 
lakes.  The  date,  and  the  facts  connected  with 
its  construction,  are  well  authenticated  by  the 
concurrent  testimony  of  all  the  early  travellers  of 
the  region,  and  have  been  already  mentioned,  in  a 
former  part  of  this  Journal;  but  it  is  added  by  Fa- 
ther Hennipen,  that  this  vessel,  called  "  the  Griffin," 
was  wrecked  during  the  same  year  in  Lake  Michi- 
gan, with  a  cargo  of  furs  and  skins,  valued  at  sixty 
thousand  livres.  It  is  now  two  years  since  a  steam 
boat  was  introduced  upon  the  lakes.  This  vessel, 
called  the   "  Walk-in-the-Water."  in  allusion  to  a 

52 


110 

Wyandot  chief,  made  its  first  trip  to  the  island  ol 
Micliilimackinac  during  the  summer  of  1319  ;  and 
produced  as  great  a  degree  of  astonishment  among 
the  Indians,  who  had  a-semblcd  to  witness  its  arrival, 
as  it  would  have  done,  had  such  a  vessel  entered 
the  mouth  of  the  Tiber  during  the  meridian  splen- 
dour of  the  arts  and  arms  of  emperial  Rome.  The 
latter  must  have  been  equally  surprised  to  see  a  ship 
ploughing  rapidly  through  the  water,  without  the 
aid  of  sails  or  oars;  but  with  this  difference — that 
the  ancient  Roman  could  readily  have  been  made  to 
comprehend  the  nature  of  the  power  by  which  it 
was  propelled,  whereas  to  the  savage  mind,  it  re- 
mained wholly  incomprehensible  and  mysterious. — 
Like  all  appearances,  however,  which  are  not  un- 
derstood, whether  of  natural  or  artificial  creation; 
it  was  conjectured  to  be  the  work  of  super-human 
agency,  and  they  were  not  slow  in  accounting  for  it. 
by  a  reference  to  the  sublime  system  of  Indian 
mythology.  According  to  this,  Miccabo,  who  is  the 
spirit  of  water,  and  answers  to  the  Neptune  of  the 
heathens,  exerts  an  influence  over  all  those  various 
tribes  of  the  creation,  who  are  compelled  to  inhab- 
it the  streams,  rivers,  and  lakes ;  and  they  suppos- 
ed that  he  had  summoned  from  the  great  salt  lake, 
(meaning  the  ocean)  a  number  of  large  fishes,  or 
Missi-kikons,  who  were  employed  to  draw  this  vessel 
through  the  water  in  so  extraordinary  a  manner,  in 
return  for  some  signal  favour  received  from  the  white 
men.  Such  is  the  facility  with  which  the  northern 
Indians  account  for  the  most  extraordinary  phenom- 
ena. 

CXV.   Day. — {September   1 5th.) — A    violent   rain 


411 

storm  during  the  night; — we  embarked  at  day  break, 
and  descended  to  Presque  Isle,  a  distance  of  forty- 
four  miles. 

CXVI.  Day.— (September  1 6^.)— Rainy — embark- 
ed at  five  in  the  morning,  and  proceeded  to  Thun- 
der Bay,  on  the  north  cape  of  which  we  encamped, 
at  an  early  hour  in  the  afternoon,  the  lake  threaten- 
ing a  violent  storm  ; — distance  thirty  miles. 

At  the  spot  of  our  encampment,  and  around  the 
shores  of  Thunder  Bay,  petrifactions  of  the  encri- 
nite,  pectinite,  celleporite,  &c.  are  abundant.  They 
occur  imbedded  in  compact  limestone,  which  ap- 
pears in  horizontal  strata  along  this  part  of  the  coast, 
although  it  does  not  attain  a  great  elevation  above 
the  surface  of  the  water.  The  application  of  these 
relics,  in  determining  the  geological  ages  of  the  dif- 
ferent mineral  strata,  composing  the  crust  of  theglobe, 
was  certainly  one  of  the  happiest  and  the  most  im- 
portant of  the  discoveries  for  which  the  sciences  of 
mineralogy  and  geology  stand  indebted  to  the  cele- 
brated Werner.  No  sooner  was  this  fact  advanced, 
than  men  of  science  in  all  parts  of  the  world,  be- 
gan to  perceive  that  certain  limestones,  slates, schists, 
&c.  were  characterized  by  containing  the  im- 
bedded remains  of  plants,  shells,  polypi,  and  fishes; 
while  other  rocks,  and  different  species  of  the  same 
genus  of  rocks,  were  entirely  free  from  these  re- 
mains,  thus  furnishing  evidence,  which  appears  in- 
controvertible in  the  present  state  of  the  science, 
that  the  former  are  of  the  most  recent  formation.  A 
minute  examination  of  the  different  species  of  im- 
bedded relics  found  in  similar  rocks,  in  countries  the 
most  distant  and  remote,  served  also  to  shew  a  co* 


412 

incidence  in  the  composition,  relative  position,  and 
petrifactions  of  rocks,  which  has  laid  the  founda- 
tion of  the  theory  of  universal  stratification,  and  of 
the  formation  of  all  mineral  strata,  through  the  agen- 
cy of  watery  menstruae  either  by  subsidence,  or  by 
crystallization  ;  and  perhaps  there  is  nothing  which 
the  combined  lights  of  geology  and  philosophy  at 
the  present  period,  tend  more  conclusively  to  prove? 
than  that  the  different  continents  of  the  earth,  were 
simultaneously  created,  however  since  disrupted 
hj  earthquakes,  washed  away  by  seas,  or  dilapidated 
by  time. 

"  Neither  an  attentive  examination  of  the  geologi- 
cal constitution  of  America,"  says  the  Baron  de 
Humboldt,  "  nor  reflections  on  the  equilibrium  of 
the  fluids,  that  are  diffused  over  the  surface  of  the 
globe,  lead  us  to  admit,  that  the  new  continent 
emerged  from  the  waters  at  a  later  period  than  the 
old  :  we  discern  in  the  former  the  same  succession 
of  stony  strata,  that  we  find  in  our  own  hemisphere; 
and  it  is  probable,  that,  in  the  mountains  of  Peru,  the 
granites,  the  micaceous  schists,  or  the  different  for- 
mations of  gypsum  and  gritstone,  existed  originally  at 
the  same  periods,  as  the  rocks  of  the  same  denomi- 
nations in  the  Alps  of  Switzerland.  The  whole 
globe  appears  to  have  undergone  the  same  catastro- 
phes. At  a  height  superior  to  that  of  Mount  Blanc, 
on  the  summit  of  the  Andes,  we  find  petrified  sea- 
shells;  fossil-bones  are  spread  over  the  equinoctial 
regions  ;  and  what  is  very  remarkable,  they  are  not 
discovered  at  the  feet  of  the  palm  trees  in  the  burn- 
ing plains  of  Oronoco,  but  on  the  coldest  and  most 
elevated  regions  of  the  Cordilleras.  In  the  new  world, 
as  well  as  in  the  old,  generations  of  species  long  ex- 


413 

tinct,  have  preceded  those,  which  now  people  the 
earth,  the  waters,  and  the  air."* 

CXVI1.  Day. — {September  ilth.) — We  proceeded 
across  Thunder  Bay,  at  five  o'clock  in  the  morning, 
landing  a  few  moments  upon  the  island  near  its  cen- 
tre, and  passing  successively,  the  spot  of  oui  former 
encampment,  at  the  mouth  of  the  river  au  Sables, 
and  the  northwest  cape  of  Saganaw  Bay,  encamped 
on  the  western  shore  of  the  latter,  at  Sandy  Point ; 
having  made  a  journey  of  fifty-five  miles.  Here  we 
found  a  family  of  Saganaw  Indians,  who  had  taken 
up  a  temporary  residence  at  that  place,  attracted  by 
the  abundance  of  water  fowl,  found  in  a  contiguous 
inlet.  These  people  lead  a  wandering  life,  abiding 
but  a  short  time  at  a  place,  changing  their  habita- 
tions whenever  the  deer,  the  fish,  or  the  wild  fowl, 
promise  an  easier  subsistence  at  another  place. 
They  live  in  tents  formed  of  rush-mats,  supported  by 
a  few  slender  poles  :  and  all  their  moveable  effects 
and  household  goods,  together  with  the  family,  are 
readily  transported  in  a  birch  bark  canoe.  On  en- 
tering the  tent,  we  found  no  person  in,  but  the  squaw 
and  children,  who  manifested  none  of  that  timidity, 
and  apparent  fear,  which  it  is  common  to  find  among 
unfrequented  tribes.  The  woman  was  engaged  at 
the  moment,  in  picking  the  feathers  from  a  number 
of  wild  ducks,  apparently  just  killed,  which  lay  at 
her  side,  and  our  entrance  appeared  to  have  no  more 
effect  upon  her  than  it  probably  would,  had  one  of 
her  own  family  entered.  She  continued  her  work. 
This  may  be  considered  as  the  result  of  the  confi- 

*  Humboldt's  Researches,  vol.  i.  p.  11. 


414 

dence  they  repose  in  the  whites, — the  frequency  of 
their  interviews  with  traders  and  travellers,  and  the 
uniform  justice  which  they  have  received  from  our 
citizens  and  our  government.  We  observed  a  num- 
ber of  smoked  squirrels,  fish,  and  ducks,  hanging  in 
the  upper  part  of  the  tent ;  indicating  a  degree  of 
care,  for  the  subsistence  of  their  children,  and  fore- 
cast as  to  the  uncertainties  of  the  chase,  which  is 
highly  honourable  to  the  judgment  and  the  paternal 
feelings  of  these  people.  They  have  a  method  of 
taking  fish  through  the  ice  in  the  winter  season^ 
which  is  equally  novel  and  ingenious.  After  a  hole 
has  been  cut  through  the  ice,  they  encompass  it 
with  a  slender  circular  frame  of  rods,  or  a  kind  of 
open  basket,  over  which  a  blanket  is  thrown  to  ex- 
clude the  light.  The  savage  now  lays  himself  down 
upon  the  ice,  with  his  head  under  this  hood,  and 
playing  a  decoy  or  artificial  fish  upon  the  surface  of 
the  water  with  one  hand,  holds  a  drawn  spear  in  the 
other,  and  when  the  large  trout  suddenly  dart  up  to 
seize  their  fancied  prey,  pierces  the  body  of  his  vic- 
tim with  unerring  certainty.  The  spear  is  short,  and 
loosens  itself  from  the  handle  the  moment  it  is  struck, 
r5ut  is  attached  to  a  strong  line,  with  which  he  plays 
the  fish  a  while  in  the  water  below,  and  draws  it 
out  as  soon  as  it  becomes  sufficiently  enfeebled  with 
the  wound.  This  method  of  fishing  was  first  noticed 
by  Mr.  Hudson,  a  missionary  among  the  Saganaws, 
to  whose  manuscript  journal  lam  permitted  to  refer 
for  the  facts. 

CXVIII.  Day. —{September  18/^.) — Crossed  Saga- 
naw  Bay,  stopping  an  hour  upon  the  island  of  Sha- 
wangunk.  and  encamped  in  the  eastern  cove  of  Point 


115 

aux  "Barques  ; — distance  forty-two  miles.  The  isl- 
and of  Shawangunk  is  an  alluvial  plain  of  four  or  five 
miles  in  circumference,  based  upon  a  calcareous 
rock  which  is  compact,  stratified,  without  organic 
remains,  and  containing  very  large  imbedded  mass- 
es of  chalcedony,  and  calcareous  spar.  These,  have 
been  broken  out  by  the  violence  of  the  waves 
around  the  margin  of  the  island,  and  lie  promiscu- 
ously among  the  fragments  of  limestone  torn  up  by 
the  storms,  and  among  large  boulders  of  granite, 
hornblende,  trap,  greenstone  porphyry,  quartz,  ar- 
gillite,  and  sienite.  The  island  is  covered  with  a 
beautiful  growth  of  oak,  and  its  numerous  little  bays 
and  inlets  appear  to  be  a  favourite  resort  of  aquatic 
birds. 

CXIX.  Day. — (September  19th.)— Detained  at  Point 
aux  Barques,  by  head  winds.  An  opinion  is  preva- 
lent among  the  inhabitants  of  the  region,  that  the 
northwestern  lakes  are  gradually  running  out,  or  in 
other  words,  that  the  level  of  the  waters  is  constant- 
ly lowering  :  some  suppose  this  diminution  to  take 
place  periodically,  others,  by  a  constant  and  imper- 
ceptible exhaustion.  1  have  been  informed  by  an 
intelligent  person  at  Michilimackinac,  who  has  been 
in  the  habit  of  making  observations  upon  the  rocks 
which  project  above  the  water,  that  the  level  of 
Lake  Huron  has  fallen  a  foot  within  the  last  eisrht 
years.  It  has  also  been  advanced,  that  this  decrease 
continues  for  a  definite  period  of  years,  as  seven,  or 
fourteen,  and  that  at  the  expiration  of  a  like  period, 
after  sinking  to  its  minimum  level,  it  attains  its  for- 
mer height  in  the  same  gradual  and  imperceptible 
manner,  and  that  thus  a  ceaseless  ebbing  and  flow- 


no 

ing  of  the  lakes,  is  produced.  A  moment's  reflec- 
tion, however,  will  render  it  manifest  that  in  a 
country  so  extensive  and  thinly  populated,  a  number 
of  circumstances  may  operate  to  produce  a  decep- 
tion with  respect  to  the  permanent  diminution  ol 
water,  as  the  prevalence  of  certain  winds,  the  quan- 
tity of  rain  and  snow  that  falls  around  their  shores, 
&c.  There  can  be  no  doubt  that  the  extra  quan- 
tum of  water  discharged  during  the  spring  and  fall, 
by  the  numerous  streams  and  rivers  flowing  into 
these  lakes,  produces  a  corresponding  rise  in  the 
lakes  themselves,  which  sutler  a  gradual  diminution 
as  midsummer  approaches.  It  is  also  obvious,  that 
the  evaporation  of  water,  must  vary  greatly  during 
the  different  seasons,  in  our  fluctuating  climate ;  and 
produce  a  sensible  departure  from  the  standard  lev- 
els of  the  different  lakes.  Conclusions,  therefore, 
drawn  from  the  appearances  of  any  particular  point 
along  this  great  chain,  should  be  received  with 
great  caution;  and  they  must  always  be  exposed  to 
error  in  the  precise  ratio  that  the  temperature  of  the 
air,  the  quantity  of  rain  which  has  fallen,  and  the 
prevalent  winds,  during  the  times  which  shall  be  se- 
lected for  experiment,  shall  have  been  correctly  re- 
gistered and  compared. 

Philosophers  and  geologists  have  not  been  want- 
ing, who  have  attributed  similar  appearances  to  the 
ocean  itself,  and  the  names  of  Celsius,  Playfair,  and 
Jameson,  may  be  quoted  in  support  of  the  theory 
that  the  level  of  the  seas  is  gradually  diminishing. — 
It  will  be  sufficient  in  this  place  to  cite  the  opinion 
of  the  admirable  Cuvier  on  this  subject. 

"It  has  been  asserted,"  he  observes  in  his  Theory 
of  the  Larth,  "  that  the  sea  is  subject  to  a  continual 


417 

diminution  of  Us  level,  ami  proofs  of  this 
said  to  have  been  discovered  in  some  parts  of 
the  shores  of  the  Baltic.  Whatever  may  have 
been  the  cause  of  these  appearances,  we  certainly 
know  that  nothing  of  the  kind  has  been  observed  up- 
on our  coasts;  and,  consequently,  that  there  has 
been  no  general  lowering  ot  the  waters  of  the  ocean. 
The  most  ancient  sea-ports  still  have  their  quays 
and  other  erections  at  the  same  height  above  the 
level  of  the  sea  as  at  their  first  construction.  Cer- 
tain general  movements  have  been  supposed  in  the 
sea  from  east  to  west,  or  in  other  directions ;  but  no 
where  has  any  person  been  able  to  ascertain  their 
effects  with  the  least  degree  of  precision." 

CXX,  Day.-— {September  20th.)— The  winds  had 
abated,  but  did  not  cease  to  oppose  our  progress  at 
daylight.  We  embarked  at  six  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing—were driven  ashore  by  the  waves  at  seven — re- 
embarked  at  nine,  and  proceeding  against  a  light 
head  wind  until  eight  in  the  evening,  encamped  on 
the  beach  of  the  lake,  at  the  distance  of  fifty  mile?* 
from  Point  aux  Barques, 

CXXI.  Day.— (September  2 1 st.) — We  quit  our  en* 
campment  at  four  in  the  morning,  but  were  driven 
ashore  b$,  the  winds  on  going  six  miles ;  and  detain-' 
ed  during  the  remainder  of  the  day.  At  the  spot 
of  our  encampment,  organic  remains  are  abundant, 
in  the  detached  masses  of  secondary  limestone, 
which  are  strewed  along  the  lake.  The  shore  is 
sandy  from  the  woods  to  the  water,  where  there  is 
a  bed  of  pebbles  and  large  blocks  of  granite,  horn- 


M 

blende,  quartz,  micaslate,  and  greenstone  ;  but  no 
rock  strata  appear  in  situ.  Among  the  loose  masses 
of  rock,  I  noticed  one  of  a  ton  weight,  consisting 
of  granite  made  up  of  the  usual  constituents  of  feld- 
spar, quartz,  and  mica;  and  also  imbedding  globu- 
lar pebbles  of  hornblende  porphyry,  the  latter 
being  composed  of  pure  black  hornblende,  diver- 
sified with  fragments  and  crystals  of  feldspar, 
quartz,  and  mixed  granite.  This  fact  I  had  previ- 
ously noticed  along  other  parts  of  the  shore  of  Lake 
Huron,  and  at  Grosse  Point,  on  Lake  St.  Clair. 

CXXIL  Day.— {September  22</.)— Embarking  at 
early  daylight,  we  reached  fort  Gratiot  at  five 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon,  after  rowing  twelve  hours 
against  an  unfavourable  wind.  Here  we  halted 
half  an  hour — found  the  garrison  under  the  com- 
mand of  Lieut.  Webb,  by  whom  we  were  received 
with  cordiality — and  descending  the  river  seven 
miles,  encamped  at  twilight  upon  Elk  island,  having 
progressed  fifty-seven  miles. 

CXX1II.  Day. — {September  23d.) — On  reaching 
Elk  island,  we  concluded  to  avail  ourselves  of  a 
calm  night  to  descend  the  river,  and  after  taking 
supper  and  repairing  our  canoes,  again  embarked 
at  nine  o'clock,  and  reached  Lake  St.  Clair  at  half 
past  three  in  the  morning.  Here  we  were  compelled 
to  await  the  dawning  of  day,  as  the  fog  and  darkness 
rendered  it  impracticable  to  effect  the  traverse  du- 
ring the  night.  Daylight  brought  with  it  a  strong 
head  wind,  and  the  lake  became  so  much  agitated, 
that  the  voyngeurs  considered  it  unsafe  to  cross. — 
Urged  by  our  impatience,  however,  to  terminate  the 


419 

voyage,  the  experiment  was  hazarded;  and  not- 
withstanding the  rain,  which  shortly  commenced, 
and  the  increased  violence  of  the  wind,  we  effected 
the  crossing  with  perfect  safety — passed  Grosse 
Point  at  noon,  and  landed  at  Detroit  at  half  past* 
three. 


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